Maximize Solar Power on a Small RV - [Connect DC to DC Charger to Trailer Batteries]

[@FreedomInACan]

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[@SCOTT-vm5nj]

Awesome, thanks for this. Is there a video about building your bike rack? I’d like to do that to my Scotty. Thanks 😮

[@FreedomInACan]

Thanks for the comment! This has been a huge benefit for our full-time life. We do not have a video about the bike rack. We had our local metal shop (folks who do custom welding, install snow plow mounts, etc.) fabricate & install a 2" receiver for a bike mount insert to the bottom of the trailer. So we could also take the rack and insert it into the truck. A year later, we had them reinforce it the mount and it's worked great ever since. Send me an email at [e-mail] and I'll send you some photos.

[@solidoaksrvtrail6588]

Do you have another video that explains about the efficiency of the 2 different solar arrays and why you’d need to swap? We have 400 W on the roof and want to get a 200 to 400 W suitcase. If they were both at 400 W it wouldn’t be an issue to go through the same 50 amp charge controller? We have an external input that goes through the same controller. Thanks!

[@FreedomInACan]

Hey there, thanks for the question. While we don't have another video, we just wrote a blog concerning this issue -- freedominacan1957.blogspot.com/2024/05/summertime-strategies-for-staying-cool.html#:~:text=System%20Integration%20Options,a%20few%20ways%3A Concerning your issue. How many panels do you have on the roof? I'm guessing 2 x 200W. So when connecting all of your panels together, roof and portable, they will need to be similar wattages. If you want to simply go through the same controller, use a 200W portable. Or you could have a separate controller for the 400W portable, (see our review of the Renogy 400W Lightweight kzbin.info/www/bejne/mnXKpGyIltaIoaMsi=mQX0D4-50Sc0dKwI), or lastly do the hack we showed in this video to isolate your panel arrays so that you won't loose the efficiency of the 400W. And if you want to go with Renogy, be sure to use our affiliate link: renogy.sjv.io/LPEyNY and promo code "CANLIFE" for 10% off. All the best, and let us know if you have any further questions.

[@solidoaksrvtrail6588]

@@FreedomInACan Thank you!!

[@Mr_SynergyPerformance]

I was under the impression that is was bad for the panels to be left disconnected from any load if they can be producing output. Maybe that’s an older methodology, but it has made me pause to rethink some design features of a solar setup. But, if they can be left disconnected (as long as they don’t short) that simplifies some things for me. Can you shed any insight on that?

[@FreedomInACan]

@@Mr_SynergyPerformance Thanks for the great question. It is my understanding that the risk of leaving panels illuminated, but disconnected, is more about an unplanned shock (wires not plugged into a circuit in the off position) rather than any damage to the panels. But let me ask our engineer friends at Renogy and get back to you with more specifics and reasons. Sound good?

[@FreedomInACan]

Sorry for the long delay in returning to your question. When you disconnect the solar panels from the charge controller, they are no longer in a circuit. So, they will produce a voltage when illuminated but no current, because there's no place for it to go, just like turning off a switch to an outlet. The only danger is if there's a potential for a short circuit when suddenly something unwanted causes the voltage to become a circuit, i.e. you. But with proper MC-4 connections and switches, there's no harm. Make sense?