The entire suspension should be torqued with it sitting on the ground. Not doing so sets you up for death wobble and loose components.

Glad it helped

Yeah I can most definitely agree with you completely. I would have expected it to go smother but I found out most of the hardware was just brought over from the AEV rubicon version. I definitely had patience for this but yeah would had been great if hardware fit as the should right out the box.

While moving the axel down I detached the wiring so that it would not snap while performing the work then reattached it when moving the axel back up. also Yes you are correct when it comes to the Mojave it does not come with front lockers

Viva Las Vegas! I would love to lend a helping hand, it’s unfortunate I would not be able to make it. I hope the video can help in anyway

@@4x4chris11 Your video helped plenty bro, I appreciate it! Would you happen to remember the socket sizes you used upfront though? I understand Mojave’s bolts are a bit bigger than other Gladiators or am I wrong?

@@johnny1516 I would suggest to have a good metric socket set, in there your most likely to use 21,18 mm for larger bolts and 15,13 mm for smaller bolts. However don’t quote me on those it’s been a good while and that’s off the top of my head. But yes your correct the front shock bolt is larger from other gladiators but I’m pretty sure it’s gonna use a 21 mm socket if it’s a M14 if I recall correctly. Hopefully that can start you off in a good direction for socket fitment

Appreciate the feedback, I’m glad that short video helped you out.

No plate needed the bumper has hole accommodations for a winch configuration, just check the Rebel Off-road website to make sure your winch will fit or you can call them as well.

Good question, believe it was minimal to no significant change I’ll have to check my records and see if I can find the adjustment if there was any. I did go get an alignment done after the lift to check for any change if any, but by riding before and after the lift I could not tell any difference from the stock ride, in fact I feel like it drove better after the lift with the new wheels. So I hope that kinda gives you an ideal estimate of what to expect but AEV is pretty good at keeping things were they need to be.

@@4x4chris11 ok yea typically when you get an alignment the shop gives you a print out of before and after of they had to adjust anything but most of the time I've seen it's just the toe adjustment and caster should be good I've just seen a few people install arms or the AEV correction brackets to fix this? Good video

Hi Mark, the rear bumper is a Rebel Off-Road Summit series bumper. For me the powder coat is really nice but does leave like a dark mark when things are scrapped on them which is fine but I really like the poison Spyder powder coat if your looking for a really high quality coat bumper. The Rebel Off-road bumper did have good protection all around however there is a exposed spot right as the wheel well starts so if your crushing rear bumpers a lot you might want to think about that. Check out my vid on the install of the rear bumper I apologize in advanced but it’s a long video I would just skip to the more interest of parts where it shows the bumper on the vehicle to get an idea how it wraps around or even better you could visit the webpage for Rebel OffRoad they got some real good shots of them there. Thanks for the comment!

@@4x4chris11 that's funny, I really have my bumper search down to a few , the rebel off-road summit series, motobilt crusher, dv8 spec series, poison spider bruiser, and metalcloak narrow.

Yeah that one was pretty tricky. I think I put the nut on the box end of a of the wrench 🔧 and I pushed the wrench in at a sweet spot I think I got pretty lucky getting away with that but it worked. The wrench should angle on the box side so it allowed me to push it up as far as I could since my fingers could not get in that area and just tried to attach the bolt while balancing that out and then just slowly wrenching it into place. Hope that helps I know it’s not an easy job especially in that area, but I’m pretty sure you’ll get it

Lol! Pretty close, Oakley Cliffdens good for blocking out the sun wash on snowy days when I’m on the mountains 🏔️

@@4x4chris11 I was just teasing you. I was thinking about getting the tire carrier you got. Are you happy with it? And you think a 40 inch tire would work fine on it? Thanks for your help

@@trcattle2797 the tire carrier may not be for everyone, it does block your rear view, takes up most of your bed space,and it’s not a straight through install. However it gave me a way to mount my full size spare. It’s definitely a crowd pleaser and good for over size tires. I’m currently still running my 37” more like a measured 35” and DV8 mentions that the tire carrier can hold up to a 40” tire. If your looking for a temporary solution to mount your full size 40” I would say this would be a good one the shocks are really good but there is some bounce in them over bumps however the pins that lock the carrier are really stiff and keep the shocks from absorbing all the bounce. I would outweigh your use of the truck bed and see if it fits your needs. Thanks for the comments!

Yes, so for the Hefty Fab Skid Plate they do provide a bag of hardware that includes nuts, so those hex holes act as through holes. I'm wondering since you were supplied just bolts if they are supposed to aligned with the factory crushed nut on the front btm frame where the skid plate would go, however this could also depend on your trim level as well? Just to note i been short many times on hardware from various third party vendors for aftermarket parts and I wouldn't be surprised if you were missing nuts especially if they are aligning to the hex holes. there's been many times i will have to call the vendor or just take matters into my own hands and run down to the hardware store depending on time constraints. thanks for the comment!

Thanks for the comment, much appreciated! Personally I choose AEV do to its quality reputation but I did fancy the Readylift 4” lift as well and so far I’ve seen a lot a good things from both

@@4x4chris11 I like the way the Mojave rides and handles stock too. So the AEV seems like it would retain that and just add some height to clear 37s. Have you had it off-road yet? You should make a follow-up video!

@@TheNotSoOrdinaryCarGuy the ride still feels stock with the AEV Spacer kit so I didn’t notice any difference there other than I needed a step into the vehicle more due to height adjustment. I did move up in tire size and wheel change and that made more of a difference with my ride quality on road and light off road. As far as really putting it to the test I have not been able to take it out such as rock crawling nor any difficult terrain but have been planning to venture out more after this winter. I’m glad you asked my time spent with the Jeep was put on hold early this summer due to medical issues I also have a few more mods still sitting in my garage unfortunately I have not got to just yet. However glad to say I’m doing a lot better and I’m hoping I get a lot more time to capture some nice adventures here in the Rocky Mountains.

@@4x4chris11 Sorry to hear about your health troubles! And glad that you are doing much better and hope you continue to get better. I'm willing to bet the Jeep performs very well off-road. The added height alone will do wonders.

Great tip! wish I would have known at the time to angle the axel would have definitely helped out. Much appreciated.

@@4x4chris11 Now you know for next time! ;) And if all else fails, there’s spring compressors you can rent and I’ve even been desperate enough to use ratchet straps and believe it or not, it works! Lol. Do at your own risk though.

Agreed, I would kick myself every now and then for giving up some of my upgrades I did to my two door. But well worth it for the family in the end with new beginnings and a fresh new slate. Appreciate the comment.

If you are referring to the “M8x16mm bolt”, I believe you can run down to Lowe’s or any local hardware store and they should have a nut and bolt identifier gauge, also they sell packaged nuts that are identified by bolt size and thread size as well. But you can use that to find the correct nut size for the M8 bolt. Also check the thread I don’t think it’s fine thread so go with the coarse thread size, however I’d double check. Once you find that, You can then check the thickness of the nut and try to get the smallest size thickness of the nut. Assuming, since you may end up having the same amount of threads I had in the video(3-4), the smaller thickness will give you more turns on the bolt protruding. I hope this helps I apologize since it’s been a while since I posted this. Good luck and thanks for the comment. SST Identibolt Bolt and Nut Identifier Gauge a.co/d/cjzqVh2

No additional spacers, I came in around 43” from the floor to the inner stock fender back and front. So there is no factory rake with the lift installed. Thanks for the question!

Mojaves sit damn near level from the factory. The suspension raises the front end an inch higher than the Rubicon sits, so rake isn't really a thing with these.

You certainly can!

Hi Jeff, I have got a BFG KO2 37” fits more closer to a 35” tire and plenty of room to upgrade in tire size down the line. But with that said I believe DV8 explains in there instructions you could fit up to a 40” tire with some different positioning of the tire mount, it should be explained in there instruction manual. However when I installed the tire carrier I was sure to point out in the video how that could be pulled off with some of the issues I had. Also DV8 Notes: For 0+ offset wheels or 13.50”+ tires, you may need to flip over the tire and wheel to allow for proper fitment. Hope that helps, thanks for the comment.

Thank you very much! You are 100% right, it can be challenging enough to create a video and install something at the same time plus take care of my love ones. But I’m glad to see that it’s most appreciated. I really enjoy trying to get a good perspective on these installs to pick up any pieces that may be dropped of on others in hopes to help anyone who is looking for help in anyway. Thanks for the comment!

I think the 20” should be fine you could always add a block of wood to gain more height if you need, just be careful. I found that having the low profile jack from harbor freight gave me the low clearance to drop my axel better and it helped me to get my springs out in the front. Check out the link in the comments on the floor jack in case your interested. Thanks for the comment, and be safe out there!

I did and they went pretty fast.

I have not regeared, maybe down the road I might have to but for my needs I don’t need to at the moment. I’m probably 7,000 ft above sea level and I also don’t tow or haul anything with my Mojave so maybe if I ever start doing that I’ll have to access the situation. If your climbing rocks that also might be a good reason to regear but I believe you should be fine if you go 37” KO2. Other 37” may sway you to go full regear due to there weight. Thanks for the comment!

Ride quality felt the same since the same suspension is still there but I did add new tire and wheel combo which made more of a difference as far as ride quality. Also as soon as I added my spare tire to the bed I felt like it can take corners a lot better as well. However I know the spare tire in the bed is not for everyone. Thanks for the comment.

Rear axel has not shifted, I initially was planning to put the geo brackets on but according to AEV and my local 4x4 shop it is not needed but offered as an option. However with that said the geo brackets are a great upgrade if your thinking about adjustable control arms and strengthening up your ride. The geo brackets are a much more affordable option. AEV provides high quality engineered solutions so you don’t have to break the bank in which I appreciate. I would say if you have the extra cash it would be a great investment to pair with your spacer lift or any other lift that the geo allows especially if you wheel often.

DV8 website includes a downloadable instruction manual. However it does not specify where each bolt, nut, washer is intended to be used. So most of it was making sure the correct hardware was put together by guessing at times. The box it comes in also indicates may be missing hardware so I did have to run down to lowes for longer bolts on the top bed mount. Thanks for the comment appreciate the feedback!

cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1118/3812/files/TCGL-01_Install_Guide.pdf?v=1610469539

I don’t have any noise or vibration issues

No regear was necessary for the wheel and tire combo I chose. I made sure to keep my rotational mass close to stock as possible so I would not have to worry about upgrading more components and went with a slight smaller 37 than others. I’m not to sure what the Mojave wheel weighed exactly but I assumed between ~10-20 lbs and the falken wildpeak M/T where about ~61lbs so in total roughly around 81 lbs. with the 703 method wheels ~21 lbs and KO2’s A/T load D ~ 67lbs. So new wheel and tire combo was 88lbs so again when you match those up and start comparing those to other 37’s you will see how quickly that can jump especially wheels as well in them you would have to think about other factors like regearing axel swap, etc. Lost about 1 mpg and the ride is a lot smoother when I went with the A/T. Also to point out the KO2’s are probably one of the most scientifically tested and true out there. I believe they were made for the Ford Raptor production. But I should have a video on this coming soon this summer, also thanks for the comment much appreciated.

@@4x4chris11 I watched your video this morning good job. I have a question though. do u still feel this way about your gears. …… I’m going in tomorrow and can’t decide if Im putting 35 or 37 I bought black rhino arsenal 20s and I’m putting nitto ridge grapplers but everything I’m reading if I do that I will have to change my gears. FYI there also installing AEV spacer kit as well I was also told that I need extended lower control arms if I did that….. thoughts.

@@4x4chris11 thanks for the response are usually mostly for driving between jobs and taking my mountain bike up to some trails and pull in a small bass boat to the river but mainly driving that’s why I’m worried about the 37‘s I just love the look of the 37s actually if I’m being honest I like the look of the 40s.lol.

@@patrickquavejr9333 I think you would be fine with 37’s however those nitto 37” are true 37’s so expect them to be heavy along with lower mpg and I believe AEV has based the 2” spacer lift on BF Goodrich KO2’s 37’s which run closer to a 35. However if your looking at 40’s it’s a hard yes to regear. You might be able to get away with nitto 37’s on the 4:10’s but should consider regear sometime down the road depending how hard you run them also take in consideration of altitude if you live in a high altitude area that could also be a possibility to get your gears re-geared. And then you would also need a larger lift if you decide to run 40’s. Just remember the bigger you go the more expensive it gets do to changing the stock configuration. I decided to run the recommended K02 37’s suggested from AEV no regrets here and I was also looking at 40’s. Im happy I did cause once I got to man handle those tires it can get real heavy especially if you need to change a tire. Thanks for the comment, be great to here from you on what you decided.

@@4x4chris11 hey man I went with the 37s total happy. Thanks for the help

I got my AEV kit from a local 4x4 shop. Took me a good day or two for me but I heard some folks pull it off 2-5 hours. With all the right tools and help you should get this done sooner as I found out. Thanks for the comment David!

@@4x4chris11 thanks for making these videos. I will use it as a guide