Your hands-on ability is really strong. If someone like me, who has no experience at all, wants to try purchasing such a small FPV aircraft, do you have any good recommendations for a complete FPV kit? I have looked at BETAFPV's products, do you think BETAFPV is ok?

Hey kzbin.info/www/bejne/rovQpaaul7qEgck what filament is it? colors is it?

Great video and just the frame I want to build too. How do you set it up in Betaflight, just drop a preset PID tune on it?

That's exactly what I need after New Year's Eve. It's really relaxing to watch you.

I really liked the video. very cool and varied without a voice, although I like both. 👍🏻 👍🏻🎉

I'm afraid to power the drone with a lipo because during my first build my esc burned and I don't know how to stop being afraid.

That copper filament looks like it's a silk filament. If that's the case then it will always be weak and delaminate a lot.

No unnecessary talking, just pure building. You’ve earned a like! 👍🏻

Such a nice build 🎉

Joshua bardwell would be proud

Joshua bardwell would be proud

🛩Flight footage will be in a separate video! What should I test? Freestyle, cruising, or how the quad feels? Drop your ideas below! You can also check out footage from my Mark5 here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ipuZiHeHo7CoorM

i recomend you some blue tact for soldering reciver and other small components]

just use 2 bullet connectors for the wires going to the top plate

is there a cw and ccw or is it just the escs managing it?

I see a part list in the description but I don't see links to the .STL files. Where can I find the files for 3D printing?

Thanks for mentioning me :-) Love the design! Those 1S builds can be really capricious so congrats on making it work so nicely!

Nice

The carbon rod holders broke because you printed them at the wrong orientation. It should be 90 degrees to the rod else you get layer separation.

Just get an A1 mini, and you will have waaay less printing issues.

You can get some nice batteries from disposable vapes the rechargeable type have smaller capacity might be able to save some weight

So what is the range?

Whats the motor called

I'm thinking about buying the aos 3.5 v5. Should I buy it? What are the other competitors?

You should definitely print important parts in plain white PLA. Copper and gold colors are the worst for splitting . Plain white will print as strong as injection molded plastic. I have tool holders with no infill that you couldnt break with a hammer

Doing a single motor airplane like this should get a LOT more flight time. I hope to do this someday.

pls keep going! This project sounds great

I second anyone pointing out that the background music is more audible than the voice.

try a square battery 9 volt.

Bro really did make soldering look to easy

molicell 21700 battery can be better option

Buy trash and it feels like trash^^

20 min flight time?

BRO YOU NEED SOME SUPER GLUE REMOVER

I would recommend optimizing the battery connections, using larger gauge wire, shorter leads, and more solid connections an XT 30 would be ideal. With solid soldering connections, larger gauge wire. Also put your capacitor as close as you can to your positive and negative pads off the ESC. With the voltage problems that you had that's a sign that you want better connections, less resistance, higher gauge, and shorter wires

Very cool!

Nice work, Where can we download the STL files 😊

ima just build my own drone so i know how it works

I prefer carbon fiber over printing.

This is awesome! We’d be thrilled to showcase your drone in Liftoff: Micro Drones! Imagine drone enthusiasts from all around the world practicing and mastering your design in a safe, virtual space. Let us know if you'd be interested! :)

i just got my first proper drone (dji mini 4k) so hopefully i get into drones more

Music is a bit too loud compared to your voice

Can you please make this into a ready to buy kit? Those of us who dont have 3D printers would totally pick one up! I think the concept of a tiny drone with 15+ minute run time on a single 18650 is epic.

Never use metallic pla, it breaks all the time. Use regular pla or petg. Print the part at 35 degree angle. I do that with rc car suspension arms, makes them so much more durable.

RIP osd at 0:43

you have probably already heard this a thousand times, but a small bambulab a1 mini will do you wonders for precision prints.

The brittle copper PLA isn't unique to your situation. It seems to be shiny/metallic PLAs in my experience. I've had the same results with copper/gold/silver. VERY brittle prints, so brittle its pointless to waste money on shiny/metallic PLAs (imo).

Thanks for sharing the many obstacles you ran into. Great video. How about uploading to thingiverse? There are a lot of other sites but (I think) that is the oldest and probably best known.

Yeah easily a big KZbinr soon . Quality and content is there . I’ll see you in a couple of months when your page is uberly blown up

awesome