At 1:30 you say crank it up to 110 ft lb. You might clarify that it's supposed to be inch pounds, not foot-pounds. I don't think those 1/4-20 bolts will hold up very well at 110 ftlbs lol

how much should the compensator be tightened, with what value should the newton meter [Nm] be set on the torque wrench?

That plate with brass is called grenade plate need extra disc clutch plate kit get that garbage out.

cant get mine off even with breaker bar? help

What holds the diaphragm spring in place? I have the 2 snap rings and another complete circle ring that is beveled on 1 side. Does that fit onto tye top of the diaphragm spring ?

I just now tried to bust the compensator nut loose with a 15" breaker bar with a 2ft pipe cheater bar over it and it didn’t budge, ...broke my step locking tool 😮. Is it ok to use an impact air tool or might that affect the crank, bearings, and such with a hammering affect?

This is great...I am doing the stator replacement thing this weekend....

Glad you showed your struggle to get that in. Many people, myself included would have assumed they did something wrong instead of continuing

I dont recommend taking the clutch apart still in the bike. Clutch should be taken apart on the bench.

I was always taught, on an evo style clutch assy the torque should be bumped up by at least an entire ⅓'d, it may or may not have been a "tsb", what is your opinion on it, I've personally never had an issue, by the spec being bumped to 100ftlbs, and 160-165ftlbs on the compensator nut, also, granted the primary is full of oil, 28oz to be exact on the evo, OR, level to the bottom ring of the clutch assembly, but I was always taught to spray grease(white lithium or the red) all the components, basically tensioner block, the chain and both sprocket ends. What's your opinion, I'm curious

👍🏻

Mine is not coming off that easy, next option is impact, I'm a 160lb guy and torque spec is 150 to 165 ft lbs by the book, you make it look easy. I have an 05 ultra, even tried with a 2ft ext. On my 3/4 drive breaker, should I send it to the shop?

Okay after you replace your stator and get your primary case back on how many Quarts of oil do you poor into your primary case ?

is there any other way to remove the rotor without buying that special tool, it almost looks like a couple of bent coat hangers could pull it off? Thanks in advance!

What’s the name of the tool used to put the stator cup on and where can I buy one

Could you tell me what year this softail is that your working on

Is that spring compressor required to put the snap ring back in? I broke the teeth on the clutch hub itself taking the snap ring out. Now before i buy a new one do i need that tool to put it all back together?

super job😊

Definitely don't want to reuse the broken spring plate!!!! Great job showing how not to fix your clutch to the masses. Put the wrenches and camera down!!!! Wonder how many people you just taught to put sheared off rivets back in clutch.ID10T.

That's what happen to my factory clutch those little brass rivets came off... there is only one steel plate that has those brass rivets they are for so they say they make the clutch easy to pull in or it makes it quieter... it blew apart at 48K miles. so i got a new clutch at harley davidson Dealership that did not have those brass rivets ,,, i think it was a Screamin' Eagle Performance Clutch...

Thank you very much!

These videos are old. But just what I need. Got a 96 Springer that stopped putting out juice. Thanks for posting these!

Thank you, that was a lot easier than I thought

Should add silicone to the stator plug where it seals on the case

In the schematics of Ronnie's parts, it shows a spacer between the rotor and the shaft extension, but none behind the compensator nut. Is this washer/shim inserted afterwards, as needed, if the sprocket chain requires alignment?

Where can I get that special tool

Thank you for posting . It really helped .

I'm confused. You showed us take off the stator and compensator without having to remove the clutch pack, which you did in part 3, during which you said some people had been having trouble putting it back on, and that you "would not leave us hanging" and would show us how to replace the compensator without the removal of the clutch basket. What episode did you do that? Episode 3b did not do that.

What fluid you put in that.

Excellent video on this procedure. Very clear and applicable to many Harley models.

I know this is a old video but what is the purpose of the thick spacer plate in there? Wouldn’t a extra clutch disk and steel plate be of more use? I’ve not worked on a evo clutch before

Set chain tention

Isbt your adjusting screw c clips to the bearing?

Hi, excellent instructional videos..! I was wondering if someone can guide me in the right direction...I removed the compensator and replaced the stator already. However, I don't have enough play now to put back the compensator back on without removing the clutch assembly.....! I was just wondering if there is trick to it or I must removed the clutch assembly as well? Chain tensioner is already off as well. Thanks in advance

I think those brass screws was pressure plate rivets worn loose. Notorious at about 35,000 miles

Great help. Thanks

My 2004 road king doesn’t have that spacer. My compensator bolt came loose and messed up my rotor. Do I need that spacer?

@VTwinOnline 1:58 What's tightness measurement of the shaft?

Working on my neighbor's old HD in 2023. Glad I found these old videos. Well done.

First of all you need to remove the plate with the iddy bitty screws and throw it away if you try to put it back with those loose you will destroy your clutch

Thanks!

hi, did i miss how you fastened and torqued the compensation and clutch nut? which video is it shownieuws. thx. for the rest great video's.

Bloodline racing onemob IP9 shiii 🤳🏿

I'm looking at bikes on FB market but I want to know how to fix ever aspect of these 🚲 in case I buy a 🍋... Buy fix 🙃 flip... 👍👍👍.... Oh yeah I'm subscribing to your channel you do good work 👍...

I have an 08 softail deluxe and getting ready to replace the stator. Does the rotor carry bolts and what size? Oh and if you have the torque specs on the compensator bolt please. Great video btw!

Very good explanation!! does de engine should be in gear, neutral or does not matter?

I think you need to revise your series of videos on this proceedure. There are roo many mistakes. Try referencing the manual because your shims are wrong and misplaced

Thanks for posting this, it has made my cussing abet a wee bit. My Evo does not have that evil ass clutch, none of mine did, I skipped those years. So what does someone bring me? A1994 FXRP to mount a sidecar, that part went well, the burning of the clutch by the owner was not part of the plan... so, being nice guy, said, no worries, I'll take care of it, thinking it had a nice normal HD clutch like all of mine, but nooooo, it has this damnable thing and of course, I don't have the special tool...and no, I never owned a Sportster, so never needed it...and don't now...damned ridiculous just to change the damned clutch plates, vent over, this has now become the problem of the shop who did the work to prep the bike for the sidecar (it sat up a while)...I will mount a sidecar for you, but I am not your mechanic...again vent over and there is a reason HD stopped using that clutch set up on big twins....PITA is all that it was...

thank you for making these vids, it gave me the confidence to work on my bike.

You should have stated that the transmission main shaft nut is LEFT HAND THREAD.