Ah, you just buy US tires and mount them against the recommended rotation. Tires rotate the opposite way in Japan and Australia

@@keithhill7098 Ooph I’d have to pull them off and look. I don’t recall off the top of my head. I’ll respond next time I’m under it!

@epochmotoring No worries! Car looks great that's for sure, looking forward to more content on it! Oh what size tires are you running on it?

I can't recommend the shorty headers enough! Inexpensive, but good quality and sound! If you're looking for a higher rev (planning to build the head) the go with a longer header! Good luck!

Hey there! Apologies for the delay, I bought a used HKS Hi-Power exhaust from Facebook Marketplace. This is the exact exhaust: subimods.com/products/hks-hi-power-exhaust-2002-2007-wrx-2004-2007-sti-3106-ex008?variant=41168974217391&currency=USD&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw2dG1BhB4EiwA998cqByUx16M4-eMjaHLEqUSm3YboNdwIH1OnmhE1-LaS3e2fn70UYNcVxoCelkQAvD_BwE I didn't need any flange adapters, this with some copper exhaust paste worked fine!

Apologies. Let me step through and balance it out. Takes a ton of time to shoot, edit, edit sound, and post (on top of doing the actual work to the car!)

Thank you for the kind words! Slow winter but I’ve got some stuff coming!

I purchased CEIKA Coilovers, they've held up really well!

Haha have done!

I would say on the go adjustability for ride height. Dialing in a new set of wheels, tires, and how the car sits considering offset, width and tire size! The option you mentioned would work well, the only downside is any adjustments to height need to be made by dropping the rear end again and adjusting the torsion bars. That could be tedious depending on your wheel/tire setup and driving/track use!

I don’t, I’m sorry. Any questions I can answer for you?

Thanks so much! Been an ongoing project for a few years, I'll try to keep her moving! Thanks for checking out my channel!

Hey there. I don’t, it wasn’t a tough fix though. Just run a wire from a nearby ground through the wheel well to the existing sensor wire. Cut the existing sensor wire and connect to the grounded wire. Should be all set

I didn’t get a chance to again, but I would love to!

For sure! Great idea!

@@epochmotoring Thanks! ;)

Thank you for the kind words!

Glad it all worked out! Happy to help however I can!

Thank you! A few more questions: 1. did you have any issues with the handbrake cable / did you have to disconnect that cable at the lever? 2. Did you disconnect the rear brake line anywhere other than the caliper? 3. Did you have any trouble freeing the nuts on the 3 bolts that connect the spring plate (shown at 9:22)? Mine are too much for my electric impact… granted, it is harbor freight 😂

@@volleyballurrrr No problem! 1. I did not have to mess with the handbrake cable at all. 2. I didn’t do a good job of covering it, I did disconnect the brake line at the torsion bar. This was to let the entire brake hub assembly drop without ripping the line. Keep an eye on your fluid level as your clutch master shares a reservoir with the brakes. If it gets to low you’ll have to bleed the clutch. 3. I didn’t have any issues but my Ryobi impact does pretty well with the nicer battery on it. When in doubt, use a breaker bar with a non deep set socket so you don’t strip the bolt with angle on the breaker bar. Let me know what else you run into!

Hey man, i finally got everything installed recently, took it to the alignment shop and we noticed that the bottom perch is still rubbing on the control arm even when the car is on the ground and putting some stress on the whole coilover. I know you mentioned this was the case for you in the video, did it affect ride quality at all? Did you look into adding a thicker spacer to the bottom mounting bolt at all to move it away from the control control arm?

@@volleyballurrrr when I compressed the suspension it finally cleared. I think the only route to go is a thicker spacer. That’s frustrating. I’d reach out to CEIKA and see if they have a different option. They suggested a spacer to me - but it’s some extra stress on that bolt that I don’t love

Hey there - Yes that was me! I brought my daughter in the 944 and walked around. It was a really good time!

@@epochmotoring That's awesome! I was excited to see another 944 especially such a clean one, I drove my 944 turbo there, hopefully one day mine looks as good as yours

@@thepvppanda 944 Turbo is a much nicer platform than my NA! What color was it? Where about were you parked?

@@epochmotoring its an 87 in maraschino red, I was parked in between where the broncos and the lane of Porsches were parked, I have an NA also both are great platforms :)

@@thepvppanda ah we got down that way but the kiddo was getting cranky and I missed it! Absolutely love the Turbos, so fun to drive!!

Hey Will - I didn’t have any of these issues. I bet they sent early 944 Coilovers!

@@epochmotoring thanks for the confirmation! Hoping Ceika customer service comes through on this one.

@@epochmotoring they did sent me early 944 parts. The correct parts just arrived. You mentioned having to re-route the ground for the brake sensor in the video, do you happen to remember the gauge of the wire? Solid or stranded? Planning to secure the terminal on mine to another wire that has a ring terminal and send that wire back into the engine bay

@@volleyballurrrr I believe it was 16 gauge! I am not sure solid vs stranded, I’ve always just bought by gauge

Hey there. Those LMs are from a JDM car, so they’re 5x114.3. I wanted to run them but the offset wouldn’t work with adapters!

What little bike is that ??😊😊😊😊😊

kzbin.info/www/bejne/pZKsipmcrNRkeqs

Talking turbos, you may enjoy my video of my car !!!!😊😊😊😊 cheers!!

@@epochmotoring Thanks, I guess I'll have to go with 17" BBS LMs, they're pricey, but IMO they're best looking wheels on 944s.

I went with the “sport” spring rates that CEIKA has. I didn’t love the overall fitment, but the customer support was good and that spring rate rides great!

Hey Drew. Try not to worry too much, while I think the fit could be much better - the Coilovers ride really well. I got the height and dampening dialed in - and they ride awesome. It’s up to you if you want to do this the right way or the wrong way. If you have a lot of time, two jacks, and are detailed oriented - do it the right way. If you’ve done enough suspension work to be careful but cut corners, do it the wrong way. You’d save probably 10 hours. Best of luck, let me know what you need. Ask any questions and I’ll get back to you within a few hours.

@@epochmotoring thanks for the response. So I want to try to do it the wrong way but I don’t want to cut a hole in my body. So how far into the sleeve should I cut and once I have the end off will the bar just come right out and keep cutting every couple inches?

@@drewpuck I haven’t done it the wrong way myself (yet) so I don’t have exact measurements. You don’t need to cut a hole in the body, just keep pulling the torsion bar out and cut it. Here’s what I would do: Jack up the car, put it on Jack stands and get the rear wheels off. Support the rear hubs somehow (Jack up and support with Jack stands, wood, cinder blocks, whatever works). The idea is to take the sagging load off of the suspension. Next your going to want to mark the covers at whatever depth is going to work. I can measure my torsion bars tomorrow to give you an idea. Two inches should be enough, but I can double check. Mark or tape your torsion cap area, then start cutting. Once you have the cap cut, keep pulling the bar and cutting. Once both sides are out, install your Coilovers. You can seal up the torsion covers with some PVC, just take some measurements. Give me a shout and let me know how it goes.

@@epochmotoring thanks man I really appreciate the responses

@@drewpuck Of course! Let me know how it goes!

Good question! While the original suspension did utilize that bolt as a mounting point for the weight of the rear of the car, it was designed for a strut. This means that the area where that bolt sits is designed for the top of a strut (though not as sturdy as a modern rear strut design.) If the bolt snapped, the weight of the car would be supported by the top of the strut against the inside of the rear body. There isn’t a traditional bump stop. Not an ideal situation, but the body is sturdy enough not to punch through. I did some research ahead of time and the factory mount and bolt are sufficient!

Thanks for your answwr but i think you misunterstood me, i was thinking of the lower bolt where the coilover is attached to the trailing arm. If it woould snap there is no more support. My question now is: will the wheel hit the wheelhouse or will it be stopped from something before that happens? Because if not that would be extremely dangerous…?

@@klauskleber358 apologies for misunderstanding your question! I had to review my installation and put some thought into this question. If the bottom bolt for the coilover mounting did snap, the situation would be a little bit complicated. Depending on the factory wheel and tire setup, the tire may end up hitting the inside of the body - I think it likely would in most cases. That being said, the torsion carrying tube is still bolted on the front side to the body, and on the rear side to the trailing arm, which finally bolts to your hub assembly. Without a torsion bar in that carrying tube, you no longer have sprung force applied BUT there is only so much rotational give in the trailing arm and spring plate assembly. I found this to be true because as I jacked up the assembly to get the top 17mm bolts in, I lifted the car off of the Jack stands a bit. I believe that some of the force handled by the suspension would be transferred through those assemblies to their mounting points. Short answer - yes it would be dangerous, but I believe the rear might have some support in this scenario.

@@epochmotoring Ok thank you so much for your thoughts…I am interestet in changing to coilovers but i have to be sure that if sonething breaks the wheels wont block… the swaybar is supporting the wheel when the bolt goes on one side. But i had the hope that the movement of the trailing arm is somehow limited before the wheel would hit the wheelhouse. I looked at your video again in min 16:00 the trailing arm seems to be at the highest possible point but i cant imagine a wheel to fit in the wheelhouse in this position… But there must be a way to limit the travel and even the factory should have installed something for safety… but i cant find clear information…

@@klauskleber358 I understand your concern completely. There are a lot of folks running Coilovers, and in all of my research I’ve never heard of this happening. You could go the route of Coilovers that retain the torsion bar, but that requires a good bit of work balancing height with the indexing of the bar, etc. To be fair, if the bolt broke on the factory torsion/strut setup, I don’t know that the torsion bar would be enough to keep the body off of the tire either! Might just have to be an ‘accepted risk’ with this chassis.

Great tips! Pinning for awareness! Thanks Christopher!

These Coilovers held up better than any other set I’ve ever had. I’ve spent twice the money and got less quality. Sold the car since then, but 10/10 would recommend KWs.

Very kind! Thank you!

CEIKA Coilovers. Updated - 7/10 would recommend for extended support and troubleshooting***. They handle fine and have a lot of adjustability, but the fitment could’ve been better. My advice (in hindsight) if you’re looking for a direct fit would be to spend an extra $300 and gets Konis!***

@@epochmotoring Great video. I have a question regarding the pricing you mentioned above. The Ceika kit I have looked at is quoted as $1190 and the only KW's I can find are $3549. I'm just wondering if I'm looking at the wrong KW kit or if the price has gone up $2000 in 4 months?

@@taswesty Apologies, I need to update this. Working with CEIKA I’ve had better support over time. I’d up their rating for sure. I added different spring setups including helpers on my updated CEIKA setup and it was closer to $1400. And you’re correct, they don’t make a V2 anymore that I can find (those would’ve been closer to 1800), the setup I was also looking at were the Konis. Apologies for the confusion. www.paragon-products.com/Coil-Over-Kit-Koni-Cup-p/koni_cup_kit.htm

@@epochmotoring No need to apologize at all. Things change all the time. I hadn't seen the koni's, I might look into them a bit more. Thanks again for the advice.

Check out Lindsay racing bilstein escort cup setup 😊 got it awhile ago on my 951 ,I think it was around 2200 bucks and came with billet camber plates😊😊😊😊

So true! If you needed to clean up the underside this would be the time! Thanks for the comments and info! It’s really appreciated!

Thank you very much! It was a handful, but happy to have the experience. Quick DIY version coming soon!

You are absolutely correct! First time working on a 944, I ruined this bolt with my electric impact - made a note of it, but it must have gotten edited out! Had to order a new one and wait on it. 🤦 Live and learn!

@@epochmotoring I have learned Alot !! Since I started with 944 !!! Keeping this running, you can't help it !!! 😀😀😀😀🚘🚘🚘 kzbin.info/www/bejne/pZKsipmcrNRkeqs enjoy!

Thanks so much! More videos coming as soon as I can get some editing done!

Hey there! Thanks for checking out my videos!

I used Nichols Speedometer Repair out of North Carolina. They do whole fleets, definitely know what they’re doing! www.nsifleet.com/ And I don’t see the black beige much either! Stay tuned, I’ve shot another two episodes, just need to get around to editing with the new kiddo!

@@epochmotoring awesome thanks! Mind if i ask you the price? My tach, trip and odometer and i think fuel gage need attention

@@quincylongman7469 It was right around $250! They updated all of the internal lighting too which was awesome!

Will do!

I doubt you'd have the clearance for Rally, I'd suggest looking for something that gives you both lift and travel (Not just lift, which is what I see most often).

Thank you for the kind words! I love the ride on the STs, honestly can't believe it. They soak up bumps like nothing, and ride perfect. I'm used to Racelands, so this was a decent step up! What do you drive?

@@epochmotoring I got a 06 WRX wagon. Yea I love these coilovers, amazing quality. Two winters and no rust yet and nothing has seized. I feel like they’re a bit aggressive for road use, but for how stiff they are, even on the stiffest setting, they take bumps like a champ.

@@muamoua Agreed! And jealous of the wagon, thats what I was looking for when I picked up this sedan. They were just SO expensive. Extra 2-3k over the sedans!

Thank you! Appreciate any views and feedback! Second episode, coming tonight!