it just sort of seemed like an airflow issue at first am not gonna lie, ive seen tho in times where installers forgot to pookie ur return and supply plenum, or if ur sheet metal or ahu door was damaged to where theres a slight crack between, ud well up water and eventually end up leaking out or down into duct work. been in instance as well where shitty shack held up over 70% relative humidity with over 85f ambient in attic, no insulation whatso ever on ur supply vents or around ur AHU, was a swamp inside each return too, then again at times it was cfm issues where ur blower was running slower(i fucking hate condensate leaks)

I would like to point out that you will most likely attack me for pointing out the issues with your fix. Oh well here goes. That is an up flow furnace the auxiliary is to protect you from it overheating due to whatever issue is causing it to overheat. Once again an upflow your discharge air shouldn’t exceed 160 and that is being generous. Really should not exceed 145 and you just set it to 166. Returning to issue with that is being an upflow your return air should be 65 to 75 degree range and auxiliary limit is mounted in blower housing. The hot air should be supply air side. Most likely causes for initial failure bad board not providing power to blower or motor overheating due to low airflow and stopping which cause the heat that was already running to overheat because of no airflow at that point. Happily you fixed the symptom while not doing a thing about the problem. Pat yourself on the back. But know this heat rises and that auxiliary is at the bottom of that particular unit. You set it not to cutout at 166. Realistically you at least should have set it at its minimum. Because for it to reach 135 you would need to duct supply directly back into the return or once again lose airflow in a heat cycle now for the gas valve to be shut off feeding the heat exchanger it will require it to be much hotter than 166 at the heat exchanger than at blower housing. Please take my words and get mad as you want but then learn from them. Don’t be a parts changer the world has plenty of them.

Good diagnostics.

You missed the perfect opportunity for music: "Ring of Fire" by Johnny Cash

It is rusty from exhaust gases leaking, LP gas is corrosive

You missed it sir You inadvertently tripped that high limit by short cycling it If you would’ve just waited and let that blower run like it was it would’ve reset that limit Just saying

I always find it interesting when people with no idea fix things. Please don't burn the house down.

No cows were injured during the filming of this video.

Rusted/failed open, at least didn't fail closed. Seemed to burn nice blue so CO readings shouldn't be off the charts, heat exchanger is probably cracked that they should get CO alarm to avoid headaches (and other flu-like symptoms) from breathing it and the occasional death

Giving me flash backs of stupid Goodman problems. I like it.

I think I’ll stick to 12 volt systems…

Follow up video shows the open-delta system: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f4LYc4Cke72Hl8U

Abspestos. She's gotta go.

Can I advise you to stay away from electrical? The fact that you don't really understand 3 phase delta is a bit concerning.

Home saweet hoeinwall.

Dude’s talkin to himself on da roof 😂

Nightmare electrical setup 😮

Steve is always

Y so rusty 😮

Can I burn hair out of there. I have a husky and he fucked my shit up 😂

I am trying to fix one of these for a restaurant they tell me that it will heat up and cook fine but if they try to cook another round of food it won’t cook it and I’m just trying to do research and find out what the problem might be before I dive into it. Any suggestions on where to start would be greatly appreciated.

idk what the actual wt cuck this is. that also being said i 1005 approve of it. do what u wanna do we here for it. mebbe i send a lil bit.

We miss you Riddler, come home.

Happy Seasonal Thingy S.I.

Chuck Inattuck? Thought that looked like Dan Inavan's work

Is that a carrier infantity?

Hi How would trouble shoot the headmaster?

New subscriber here! I have the same problem. Where do you buy that replacement drain pan? Thank you!

The most offensive part of this whole video was that restaurant manager calling August Burns Red a metal band..😂😂😂😂

I work on house hold appliances but my local service station has this exact oven. I found a bad high limit thermostat and replaced it now it runs but only few minutes before the fan reset pops. Reset and it going out again in 5-10min. The fan is running, the exhaust is running on a 4inch dryer vent house her family did. She wants me to repair and offered me pizza a week for a year (plus she will pay for parts, just labor in exchange for pizza). If the thermostat is tripping so much is it due to vent or just a bad thermostat?

AKA, AO Smith Cyclone BTH199-xxx heaters. Go PVI Conquest and get some beer money from the Ultra Force.

Whatta heater, sounds like home.🙃

Strictly speaking all hot water heaters are solid state, since nobody makes any that operate via thermionic emission... (Vacuum tubes.) =3

Doubling up the heater wire and giving it a twist outside the crimp keeps the heat away but that would shorten it even more. Thats how they do it in metal furnaces. Whatever works.

Really, it probably deserves a viking funeral...

Nice trick with that gas valve. I installed one of these yesterday and was thinking how dumb the inducer setup is.

I got a bone in my shake

I'm still covered in red rtv

No citrus beverage this time?

Cut out the pressure controls, green wires mean "go!"

Ur vids are a bit odd, but valuable info with a bit funny moments👍

My oven heats but won't shut off the heat so it gets too hot... wll this be the temp sensor, or is their a high limit sensor. or control board or something.. How do I isolate problem?. This video has a really bad sound problem.

So, this isn't a mini-split. It is just a central air heat pump. A mini-split has no ducting. If it is ducted, it is a central air system like any other... just a heat pump. The idea of a mini-split is that it would replace a window unit which is a miniaturized packaged unit, meaning it is everything in one... not split.

Now any future service techs will think there is a refrigerant leak due to the oil spray Not a well thought out design indeed

The “cloth” wire os known as Type R wire and it in fact is RUBBER insulated, the cotton braid, which has fire retardants in it and the rubber as well, still used in modern vinyl wire like type T, TW, THW, MTW, and THHN/THWN, which is actually MORE flammable than type R ironically, uses the fabric braid to protect the actual rubber asunder from abrasion when pulling it into conduit, etc, and has moisture reducing compounds as well. It is perfectly safe and s rated at 60 c temperature rise, same as type T and TW vinyl wire. As long as run within the ampacity of the wire size-like 15 amp for #14, 20 amp for #12, etc, it is absolutely safe. Only exposure to high ambient temperatures like in hot attics, boiler rooms, etc, will the rubber insulation possibly get brittle, as well as overloading to heat the wire. I have beautiful Type R wire I use with my antique wiring devices that are part of my fixture and light bulb collection and to be used in knob and tube systems etc. that is well over 100 years old and as good as the day was made, some from black conduit, and knob and tube I salvaged from old buildings we tore down which was our business. It is good stuff! The older wire was tinned with solder so the rubber insulation was less likely to adhere to it for easy stripping, and to facilitate easy soldering before wire nuts were a thing. And the splices used rubber spacing compound type tape then were over wrapped in cloth friction tape to protect the rubber tape. These are still made today! You MUST use BOTH, and there is no adhesive in either, the rubber tape molds into one piece of rubber, it must be stretched out before applying and you grip the splice so body heat will vulcanize the rubber! The friction tape has a gummy rubber in the cloth that semi-adheres, and also requires you to hand vulcanize the rubber! It is FAR better than modern PVC vinyl electrical tape! I still will use friction tape if I use vinyl tape on a split-bolt “bug” splice, because the vinyl tape has a propensity to get gooey due to the plasticizer in the soft vinyl tape migrating into the adhesive and turning it into non adhesive goo! The cloth/rubber friction tape keeps it all together. I love old electrical installations like this! Old “cob jobs” Can be rectified and this good old stuff will last eons. The open bus bar knife switch panels are awesome and favorites of mine! Also, smaller gauge wire feeding these individual safety switches can be used as long as no more than 6 feet long by code, so these are actually done right. The only issue I see is more than one wire per lug termination, BUT if done carefully to insure good clamping on all wires, it CAN be implemented safely! Cheers! 😋👍🏻

hi

What a pain in the ass

how much PSI for r290

The cresent cube evaporators are notorious for it.

And the old stuff will be alive and kicking long after all the safety crap now days is dead and failed. I would have no problem using those old boxes.