Ese no es mi nombre, es el nombre de una persona que amablemente apoya mi canal de KZbin desde Italia.

Ese no es mi nombre, es el nombre de una persona que amablemente apoya mi canal de KZbin desde Italia.

Thank you for your kind words, Will.

How did you reinstall your speaker?

​@@JDW- The two times I recall doing it, I had to jam in the speaker under the wider bit near the edge of the case, and then bend back the two bits some I'm guessing since the original cases are 40 years old now they bend a bit easier, but it was not easy I had damaged a speaker a long time ago when removing it, trying to pry it out with a little screwdriver it slipped and tore the cone I need to set up the clear case I also got so your video certainly helps!

Thank you for the excellent suggestion! While I have the original JB Weld epoxy which dries gray, I'd never heard about UV curable JB Weld until your mention. Sadly, I cannot find it on Amazon USA or Amazon Japan. I am able to find it on the JB Weld website, although that doesn't help me lay my hands on a tube here in Japan: www.jbweld.com/product/superweld-light-activated I was able to find a Krazy Glue version here: amzn.to/40QPPnB But alas, it is no where to be found on Amazon Japan.

After much searching on Amazon Japan, I was able to find BONDIC brand refills for a reasonable price, and since I have my own high wattage UV light (which I normally use for curing UV solder mask), a refill bottle will suffice. Most likely this is the same resin used in the JB Weld brand. Most comments about the Bondic resin here in Japan are good, so I can give that a try. Thanks again for the tip! www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/BD-CRJ/dp/B01LR7A2DE/

Yes, but many still work even if the plastic housing is cracked. And some work for years and years with a plastic case that has multiple hairline cracks in it. It's best to change them if they are 30 years old or older though.

NEW November 2024 Procedure: 1. Open KZbin Studio 2. In the left sidebar, click "Customization" 3. At the top you will see "Channel customization", and under that 2 tabs: "Profile" & "Home tab". The "Basic Info" tab shown in my video is now gone, sadly; but just stay in the "Profile" tab. Then scroll down to the very bottom until you see "Contact info". Add your email address in that field. 4. Click the "Publish" button in the upper right. You're now finished!

@@JDW- Sir can you tell me which account i create for KZbin channel personal account or business account

@@Abdullah-w4c6h There's no such thing as a "business account" on KZbin. The closest thing would be a "Brand account." The alternative is a Personal Account. This video explains the two: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qoXcoZadnb-Wqbssi=BYnZqsDPPeWZy1oa

What kind of work did you back the which compelled you to pay that high price? I was only 13 in 1984 and could only dream of having a hard drive at the time. Amazing how much has changed.

@@JDW- I was in my late 20's when that occurred. I had a career as a firefighter and I was single at the time so I had some free money to spend on things I "wanted" not needed.

@@rickkephartactual7706 Thank you for sharing. Firefighter! Thank you for your service! If I had been in your shoes at the time and single, I surely would have done the same. Best wishes!

@@JDW- Thank you and the best to you as well.

@@JDW- at one point I had two Mac Plus's and used one to run a BBS called "The Mouser" utilizing if I remember correctly the Red Ryder software.

Thank you for your very kind words. And thank you also for making time to let me know your speaker replacement was a success. Best wishes!

Thank you for sharing. If you don't mind my asking, how did you accidentally damage your left speaker?

⁠@@JDW-I forgot about speaker cable and pushed my motherboard on it. Put some screws on motherboard and noticed that there is no cable ) Unscrewed the motherboard, pulled out the cable and connected it. After assembled everything and left speaker doesn’t work. I can see on cable that it is damaged. Anyway it’s interesting to do it will do it again) I watched your video about how to repaste cpu and ordered thermal paste. Next week will do it. Thank you so much !

Alas, the brilliant geniuses in "leadership" at KZbin have struck again! I think they deliberately make these changes in order to make KZbin videos become outdated so creators like myself need to make yet another new video to reflect the changes! 😫 My video shows that after clicking "Customization" in the left sidebar, you will see 3 tabs named: Layout, Branding, & Basic Info. As of today in November 2024, there are now only 2 tabs: Profile & Home tab. Do a keyword search for "contact" while in the Profile tab. That will jump you to the field in which you need to type your email address. At some point I will need to create an updated video to address the unfortunate changes, but I will likely wait until 2025 to do that.

That's truly wonderful to hear. Thank you for making time to share your success story. Best wishes to you and your new speakers!

Thank you for making time to provide feedback. I of course cannot tell you if your right speaker was working or not prior to your replacement job. But I do read and reply to every comment under this video. And I can tell you that handful of people have reported problems, all of whom had a case of a forgotten connection or a connection that wasn’t fully seated or a connector they had broken off (usually the tiny round one though). So at the very least you’ll need to reopen your machine and reconfirm connections to make absolutely sure there are no connector and cable problems. I suspect it is probably a connection because when these speakers go bad they usually crackle rather than outright die. So if you get no audio at all from the right speaker when you know you should, it’s probably a cable or connector problem.

That's great to hear. It's sad it doesn't last forever, but the bake is really worth the time and effort when you can't afford a replacement card or iMac. Best wishes!

They certainly do. I am actually filming the second video segment right now - IIc Clear Case Installation! 🙂

Hi, Jeff. I think I should change the title of this video because it honestly isn't garnering enough views. It makes me feel odd to toot my own horn, but this really is a very comprehensive video that could help out a lot of people. I wish to thank you personally because you were instrumental in sending some great info my way. Not only that, but you and Gamba were a major part of custom ROM SIMM history too!

Renamed! Hopefully, this new name helps people find it.

You are probably asking this question because you want people to find your email in a more quick and easy manner. You can add a "plain text" email address inside the video description on KZbin, but that would not be a "clickable link." The standard way of making a clickable email link is using "mailto" like this: mailto:[email protected] . However, KZbin refuses to recognize "mailto" in video descriptions. KZbin will refuse to make it clickable link and instead displays it as plain text. As such, it is not possible to add a "clickable email address" within a KZbin video description. You are only able to type your email address into the video description and have it display as plain text. Nevertheless, the method shown in my video is the KZbin recommended way because it better protects your email address from SPAM.

It really is. Mark Jozaitis (MacEffects) and Javier Rivera (ARC Javmaster) did a great job on it. My next video will show the detail installation, so stay tuned for that.

Thank you for your kind comment. As mentioned in the video, some kind folks in the Apple II community got together at VCF and decided to spark my interest in the Apple II platform by gifting me a IIc. It worked! I made my first Apple II video ever that Christmas (2023), and I've been distracted with other videos and matters since then. Mark J. recently mentioned the IIc clear case (and black case) is out, and that prompted me to make a commitment to focusing on the IIc for my next few videos. I bought several different upgrades and add-ons for the IIc over the last several months, but I've just not had time to show them. I decided I would change that and this video is the first in that series. Specifically, this video is an overview of the new plastic case, but the installation video will come next, followed by the Mockingboard audio card install, and then other upgrade installs. The Apple II series computers are very different from the Mac but quite fun to learn and use too!

Thank you for your comment. I am very sorry to hear you didn't glean something useful from this video like a few other people in the comments have. Community response in the Apple II Enthusiasts group on FaceBook has been overwhelmingly positive as well. Do you currently have an Apple II machine or did you use one as a student back in the day? As I said in the video, this IIc was my first entry into the world of the Apple II, having come from a background using Macs exclusively. I'm still very much in learning mode and am truly thankful to Mark Jozaitis, Javier Rivera, Jonathan Adar, and Adam McGaughey for being so kind in sparking my interest in the Apple II. I've found that some things like audio on the Apple II was quite an eye-opener. It's clearly inferior to the audio on the 1984 Mac, which is why I purchased a "Mockingboard 4c" a number of months ago. I've not installed that yet only because I've been waiting to find the time to make a video about the install. As mentioned in the video, I plan to film not only the Mockingboard 4c install, but also show some other upgrades I have purchased like the BMOW Drive Switcher, ROM Xc and others. Should be fun. And really, "fun" what this small community is about. Few people use Apple II machines at their day job or even for daily tasks. There's a lot of nostalgia involved. But it's also both surprising and very interesting to me to see some fellow hobbyists in the community stand up and make some new related things now in 2024 which enhance the overall experience.

Thanks. I also wore the same yellow shirt in my first video on the IIc here, where I show the color LCD that Javier Rivera and Jonathan Adar put together (their first prototype): kzbin.info/www/bejne/mqPMdIikqL2Nmbs

Thank you for your extremely kind words, Mark!

I think the "word" 🙂 varies by person, be it: semi-transparent, frosted, foggy, translucent, not 100% transparent, misty, or even "cleverly designed."

Thank you!

Yes, individual videos are my intention. I will do the IIc Clear Case install first, followed by videos on other upgrades like the ROM Xc, Mockingboard, etc. The ROM Xc is nice because it gives you the ability to choose any of the stock ROMs that were officially released for the Apple IIc. Machines that have original 16KB ROM (Apple part number 342-0272-A) require cutting open of the W1 pads and soldering together of the W2 pads. You must then remove the MONITOR ROM nearest the speaker at the D-19 position so you can insert the ROM Xc board there. The original ROM Xc kit also required the removal of the video ROM, but they later made that optional because many people, myself included have a soldered VIDEO ROM. So I just bought the basic ROM Xc kit from ReactiveMicro here: www.reactivemicro.com/product/romxc-for-apple-iic/ The INSTALL GUIDE for ROM Xc is here: jdmicro.com/documentation/romxce/ROMXc%20Installation%20Guide.pdf The USER GUIDE for the ROM Xc is here: jdmicro.com/documentation/romxce/ROMXce+%20User%20Guide%20v1.2.pdf So you are saying your "MON" ROM IC is soldered? Interesting. I thought they were all socketed. Well, if indeed your "MON" ROM is soldered, you would need a HAKKO FR-301 desoldering gun to do the safest and best removal. Otherwise it's possible you could damage something when trying to use just a copper desoldering braid. I have an FR-301. It's expensive but if you use it at least once a month on a project, it's worth the money. One cheap alternative is to pay someone local to you who will remove it. (Obviously, someone with the right tools and experience.)

@ thx for the info but I decided to not install it, or find someone who is confident, it seems like a rarer version (as you say they’re usually socketed) so I’ll hopefully find another one which hasn’t risen in price according to world events lol. 👋👍

@@-someone-. Just to confirm, you are indeed saying your ROM marked "MON" is the one soldered, correct? No doubt about the correct chip?

@ yeah def soldered.

@@-someone-. That's unfortunate, but thank you for the info. I asked Jonathan Adar about this and he confirmed it isn't rare to see a soldered MON ROM, so I will need to be sure to mention that when I show the ROM Xc install.

This has been reported before and I reply the same way every time, which almost always allows people to resolve the problem. You forgot to reconnect something securely. Yes, it is as simple as that, but the problem is, I cannot tell you what you left unsecured. But I will tell you this, most people fail when it comes to those 3 tiny round connectors to the right of the left fan. If one or more is left unsecured, it could lead to your problem. But so could breaking one of the connectors off, so hopefully you did not accidentally do that. All said, you need to reconfirm your connections with a magnifying glass.

@ thank you for replying boss! I’ll re check the connectors.

Well, I tried everything and literally doble check the connectors so far the 3 little ones seems well placed, I marked them. But still it’s not turning on. Maybe because I didn’t wear that blue wristband? Because I can’t see more options since I did everything very gently. 😣

Oh by the way, I also notice that when si plugged my macbook to the electricity (afterwards) the light stayed orange for the whole night, so the battery it might be not charging. (I replaced the battery a while ago) but this no charging was a consequence of something I did wrong this time 😰!

ESD is real, especially if you wore socks on a carpeted floor, and especially if you have the tendency to zap yourself when walking around then then touching metal items. Some people experience ESD shocks more than others. The wrist strap is intended to eliminate that so nothing will accidentally zap a static sensitive chip inside the Mac. The battery pack is the first connector you must disconnect, so if all the pins in that connector pair are perfect, then it must be something else other than that battery connection. You did not mention if you hear a bong at power on, so it's not clear if it is simply your display is off or if the computer is not being powered and/or booting. If you read through past comments, you will see that some people like "jessebest4683" broke a cable but their machine and wifi continued to work. While other people like "RastusMcbride" broke one of the tiny round connectors and had to get his screen replaced as a result. If you continue on reading past comments, you will find one from "user-xu5eu8po7f" who confirmed his MacBook does make the boot chime but his screen was blank. As you can see, I spoke to him, reminding him about yet another past comment. He then checked all his connections like you, but didn't find a connection problem at the time, although he did discover his backlight was off. He then rechecked and found the culprit. See that conversation for details. So while it could be your case is different, and while I won't rule out ESD damage caused by not having worn an anti-static wrist strap properly grounded to the earth ground pin of a 3 prong wall socket, it very well could be that one of the things discovered by other people in the comments could be of help to you. For example, if you keep reading back through the comments, "erikmartinez-to4mm" says his screen works but battery no longer charges and level had fallen to 30%. I wrote him some thoughts, but he then didn't follow-up, probably because he was able to resolve the issue. Yet others like "양창민-o3b" reported a black screen, I replied, but they didn't follow-up. "mvlla8624" was yet another case of interest. Lastly, you are having screen issues, so it is important for you to know all the cables which permanently attach to the display because if a connector is bad or any wire broken, it can cause the display to fail. And the best way to see that is to watch a video like the one below about display replacement because it shows all those connections: kzbin.info/www/bejne/apK6gWSGrJeChJYsi=IxJSG5NBGEEYY47v&t=122

Found your paypal link. Sent some love. Thanks again.

Thank you for your kind support, Sumit! Please check PayPal because I sent you a message there with a question for you. And since you commented about the "camera work," I should mention that I use a Panasonic GH5 camera and shoot in 4K 10-bit, editing in Final Cut Pro X on an M1 Max MacBook Pro. Not sure if you are in the market for a camera, but the GH6 is out now. Best wishes!

I like big. Big screens and big keyboards too. Love the Prime and the 50g for their big screens, but I also love the 28S for its big, fold-out keyboard. It's a shame some of the keys stick and cannot easily be repaired.

Very sorry to hear of your broken cable, but happy to hear it still works. Best wishes!

Thank you for sharing your thoughts. Tantalum capacitors come in wet, solid and polymer forms, with solid tantalums being the most common and the most problematic because many EE's are unaware they need to rate the capacitors at twice the working voltage. So if you use a solid tantalum on a 12.0V rail, rate it for 25.0V or risk catastrophic failure that results in a fireball and dead short circuit. The failure mode of polymer tantalum is benign, but they are much more expensive. I dislike wet tantalum because anything "wet" will leak at some point. If you can avoid using tantrums, do so, but at times when they must be used, just make sure their voltage spec is no less than twice the voltage you expect to see on a given rail. Any spike above the rated voltage could destroy a solid tantalum capacitor.

They get killed by ripple AC from cheap and aging power supplies.

Yes, you can use solid tantalum to recap an SE/30 motherboard.

You neglected to mention the single most most important point, friend: 4. I show how to solve the problem.

@@JDW- yes that was the main point of the video.

@@traviswalker8933 Yes, "REPAIR" is indeed the main point. And my having lamented a need is also important so that one day, if someone every comes across my video who happens to have a schematic, they may be kind enough to share that with the world. That's good for all of us in the end.

I don't have a Mouser Cart of ONLY the Axial capacitors, but I do have a Mouser Cart link on page 5 of my SE Reloaded BOM here: bit.ly/3MF7BA9 The axial caps are mentioned atop page 2 of that BOM. So what you can do is click the Mouser Cart link on page 5, then delete everything except the Axial Caps. Remember that C36 is 1uF while C4, C11/13/16, C26, C32/34, C37/38, & C62 are 33uF.

Thank you for your kind words. And if you're not already a member, please check out our forum here: tinkerdifferent.com/forums/compact-macs.34/

Thank you for the mention of the NF-R8 and for your kind words. After your OS-CON recap and get fast 60ns VRAM (both are important to high overclocks), let me know if the software overclocker lets you overlock beyond 40MHz. If it doesn't, then Spicy O'Clock is probably what you need. Here are the key differences between the R8 you purchased and the A8 shown in my video: R8: • Airflow, MAX: 31.2CFM • Noise: 17.0dB(A) • Current, MAX, @12Vdc: 110mA • Anti-Vibration Rubber at all 4 corners of the fan front & back?: NO • Price on Amazon USA as of 10/22/2024: $12.95 (not cheap, but comparatively more reasonable) • All the Specs: noctua.at/en/nf-r8/specification A8: • Airflow, MAX: 32.7CFM (more, but not meaningfully different) • Noise: 17.7dB(A) (slightly louder, but not meaningfully different) • Current, MAX, @12Vdc: 80mA • Anti-Vibration Rubber at all 4 corners of the fan front & back?: YES • Price on Amazon USA as of 10/22/2024: $16.95 (expensive) • All the Specs: noctua.at/en/nf-a8-pwm/specification For me, the two key differences are (1) PRICE and (2) Rubber at the corners. The R8 wins on price. I want to pay THAT price! But the A8 has vibration damping rubber at all four corners, which is nice. Current consumption is usually an important difference for me, but Noctua hides the "Typical" current consumption for the R8 for some reason, and therefore I don't think it's really fair to compare the "MAX" consumption values. But it does seem clear the R8 may draw more current overall. Color for me isn't a big issue because I don't look at the machine from the back normally, and it's kind of dark inside that fan vent hole anyway. But for those who are extremely sensitive to color, yes the R8 offers a gray box and black fan option. Mike, thanks again for bringing the R8 into focus for us!

Thank you for your kind words. You appear to be saying you are unable to get a bong and instead get a sad Mac because one or more of the Apple Logo branded RAM chips is bad. If so, yes, you will need to rectify that problem first, before diagnosing floppy drive issues. It's important to bear in mind that those Apple Logo RAM chips are considered to be NOTORIOUS for failure. A purist who wishes to keep everything in the original condition would balk at what I'm about to say, but if you have to swap out even one RAM chip, it's technically not a 100% stock board anymore. Some find it better to just swap out all the RAM chips to make the machine a 512K, then install Kay Koba's FAT MAC SWITCHER so you can make it behave as a 128K Mac or 512K Mac, at the flip of a DIP switch: kzbin.info/www/bejne/sHvUcnefi850r9E

⁠@@JDW-Yes, I had a sad Mac error on startup pointing me to that chip, which I replaced and now it starts up. The internal -22 drive does actually work even though the motherboard has the early -A ROMS. Maybe the ROMS without the -A are the ones incompatible with the -22 drive? Not sure. Don’t have any other machine with 400k drives to check.

@@MaxsGarage Thanks for sharing your experience. Others have reported something things that break with the conventional wisdom. I just added the following links to the text description: 🔥 ROM REVISION INFO • bit.ly/4fd0L2D • bit.ly/4f81WkB • bit.ly/4eQJoEZ

Verry sorry to hear about the need for the display swap. I agree, you have to be super careful with those tiny round connectors! But it is great to hear you now have working speakers and a functional display too!

Best wishes on your recapping adventure! You can download that extremely fun helicopter game (Armor Alley) here: macintoshgarden.org/games/armor-alley