Appreciate the watch!

That’s awesome! These are really great engines when everything is set up correctly. I love how there are zero essential electronics!

Amazing how similar interests can be found all over the world:) love it! Stay warm this winter, my friend.

Thank you!

It has been a workhorse. Lasts longer than the original Milwaukee.

Absolutely. Getting cells from warranties high quality e-bikes tend to be the best quality for the cost.

Yup…. Best and most humbling way to learn.

Just the usual. If you’re just going to remove the engine, then once all of your ancillary parts are removed from the engine, then unbolt the mounts on the engine and transmission. Jack up the transmission carefully with something soft (like a piece of wood) while using a cherry picker on the engine side. You’ll then want to slowly go back and forth lifting both the engine and transmission sequentially until you have enough clearance to pull the engine at the correct angle. Best of luck!

100% correct.

Hi, thanks for reaching out. I’ll try and do something like that shortly. Until then, the best advice I can give you is to bring the heat sensor a little farther away from the battery itself. If it is direct contact with a cell, then the pack will cut off early because it thinks it’s too hot. 1-2mm should be enough. Maybe a dab of silicone to keep it locked in place. Check an old battery pack for reference if needed. Thanks for watching:)

You’ve got this!

это хорошее начало, но я тоже всегда снимаю нижнее белье.

@@RealSideQuest ага , ну это чисто лайфхак подсказал)

Thanks? This was one of my first vids.

Hi, thanks for reaching out. I’m not sure about that difference in these engines. This one is a DOHC. If it is the same architecture on the bottom end, then I’m sure a lot of similarities would cross over to the top.

Hey, thanks for reaching out. I’ve actually got some footage in my hard drive about rebuilding the carburetor. I’ll try and post it sometime soon.

These at the dealership aren’t too expensive. Often times you are correct, though.

There were two variants, I got the wrong one. Could go back and do it, but rubber is rubber and it just needs to be a snug fit. Maybe it’ll help someone that doesn’t have an AutoZone close by.

That’s so cool!

Thanks for that. I had no idea and will absolutely keep that in mind in the future. I’ve got the tool box all taken apart and still don’t know what to do with it…want to make it mountable on my truck.

That’s good to know. I might use that and some grease just to keep that pesky thing in place on assembly

Appreciate your comment. These old tools are so well built.

Snap-on puts in Super Lube (clear grease) with its repair kits. My retired 40-year snap-on driver just used motor oil. Grease in cold weather states is not a great idea. As long as its clean I have used almost everything😊

Thanks for reaching out…I’ve got more tools than I know what to do with, but I know there are at least a few tool exchange places online.

If you still have them I’d be interested in buying them. Thanks! Comment back and I’ll get in touch with you.

That’s some great advice right there. Will do that immediately when I get back to my next project. Thanks very much

Thanks, I noticed the the switch being brass and thought it’d fit well.

Thanks so much! I’ve got the box set aside now in some Evaporust. Should start the process soon!

Gracias, voy considerar para el próximo video.

Sorry, I haven’t the slightest. eBay would be a good start.

There’s a hole behind where the turbo is that locates the bottom at the correct mark. The head has two holes on each side of the front which locate the correct position. When all three have pins to lock them in place, then you can align the injector pump and that should be enough to put the belt on. Hope that helps.

Yeah, I didn’t know about them until earlier this year. Pretty cheap on Amazon.

On Subaru’s I’ve always had better luck with MLS. I know it’s different, but we’ll see. Almost done.

@vM0de yeah it was the solution to cast iron block and an aluminium head. Are you running standard fuelling or tunned with morebboost? Vnt turbo?

@@mattluszczak8095 I'm using the original style turbo system. I have an exhaust manifold that can house a VNT, but while I was getting stuff ready time ran out and I set it aside to just stick with the tried and true. I have added a temp sensor and boost sensor.

My man!

Not sure about the color because I got the cans from the paint supplier as “mismatched.” Can says “327.” - not sure if that means anything

Thanks….just a little work and those little details pay off.

Thanks so much!

The holiest cow

Great idea. Can’t believe my brother was going to throw it away.

You’re right… what’s needed is a 32mm shallow socket. Since it’s in a confined area, I decided to weld a 17mm. Kinda the reason for the video:/

Just to clean the surface for welding. It’s long been evaporated before welding begins.

Just use non chlorinated brake cleaner

@@zacharycassidy298 Thanks, I"ll keep that in mind.... doesn't it evaporate quickly? I just use it to clean the surface, wait a bit and then weld.

Hi, very glad it helped in some way. I’ve got some many side projects that I don’t think I could guarantee any time to help. - dropping in the entire drivetrain on my Land Rover Defender Classic.

@@RealSideQuest How bout just quick advice on how I should proceed? Ive got 175K miles and it's due for timing belt. All the "experts" on the Facebook group say I should do a "level 3" service (belts, rockers, etc...". Cost for this by a traveling Liberty CRD guru is around $6K. Car is running sweet right now and I know I need timing belt but am having problem justifying spending that much on a car that couldn't sell for $6K after all the work done. Thanks!

@@surfingmussel That's a tough one. A timing belt with the water pump and pulleys isn't too big of a job. Hardest part it just aligning everything up. It's much easier to do when the old belt is intact because you can use a marker to copy the tooth count to gear locations. Honestly... doing just the belt service might be the best option in regards to cost. The whole level 3 is great, but it's a lot of work. Best of luck:)

Yes. Had to put a dust cover over the yoke and they were only selling the entire yoke. Improvised, haha

@@RealSideQuest that’s smart. I spend to much time in hardware stores thinking of what i could do with all those fasteners. It’s just super clean and is actually very practical.

@@12dollarcereal Thanks... sometimes you have to just simplify your issue and think "what does this thing really do?" From there you can more easily come up with a solution based on the problem.

This guy!

Thanks:)

TD5’s have barely become eligible for import to the US. Can’t wait to get my hands on one.

Thanks… it’s an older video and I wish it was more instructional.

Thumbnail looks sweet!

Took me straight back to being in grade school seeing it on tv.