I have triple wall stainless pipe. In 15 years i have brushed it 3 times(i slide the stove to the side and brush from inside) i have never got more that a quarter cup of flakes. And looking up through the pipe it is clean as can be.

I have a very long and heavy tow chain that I drag up there and feed down the chimney. I rattle it all around in a circular motion and it knocks a lot off. Then follow up with the brush. But that chain gets heavier and heavier every year.

How do you know if Awning is sheet metal or aluminum

I know this is older but is that stove installed as an insert ?

If you're worried about shrinkage on cold days, the best solution is thermal underwear

Nice video and good information. You still like the Lyson unit?? Thanks for sharing! Blessings.

That’s terrible

Your video is legendary.

On the rib when used as roofing (your method has water traveling down over the screw/nail and washer). On the flat when used as siding.

Don't use a grinder. Ever. It will kill your roof as the sparks from the cutting process stick to the painted surface. Don't believe me, it also works with your car windscreen. Use tin snips or a nibbler. Its slower but your rood will thank you.

I have the exact same wood stove. It came with the house that we bought. Do you have any idea the square ft it provides heat for? And mine doesn't have a screen. Ugh

I never had buildups like that, but then I never starve my stove for much oxygen either. If I want a smaller and long lasting heat (as ex overnighters) I rather select the bigger, unsplit logs from the shed. I always make sure to run more intensive small wooded or plank material fires at weekly regular frequence. I clean my flue once a year at most, usually with little crud to report about.

Drax is the worlds largest pellet manufacture and my son is building a new mill ???

We live on an island with no stores or businesses. We had a power outage for 5 days out here. Hubby had a nice shower, and we cook on our flat top wood stove. Wood is free out here....our neighbors left the very next morning...cold, no showers and no food. So it was their pellet stove is why. They have to get 40 lb bags of pellets to carry by ferry or private boat, its toxic if kept in enclosed areas...safety?? Good luck with that, read up on the Japanese cargo ship that had crew members die when they went into the hold with pellet bags. We can load up wood in our home in 4 different holders, a big boiler copper Kettle with kindling, 3 different wood holders so its about 3 days of firewood. It is not recommended to store pellet bags in your home not just for the dampness but the fumes they give off! So you have to buy it and haul those 40 lbs bags. We are finishing up our pick up of the Maple we are chopping up free right here, easy on our own time frame. Got a dead tree we cut up off the road, a neighbor put out hardwood Alder rounds for free...The burn off from our neighbors pellet stove filled our front yard with dark smoke?? Yes I will keep my woodstove and this petite lady cleans out the wood stove ashes, helps hubby get firewood and it keeps us in better shape. I just turned 61 and love getting firewood. My step Mom is out getting firewood with her son out in Oregon at 81.

Good morning from Wakefield Rhode Island. I enjoyed your comparison of wood vs pellet stoves. Do you have any experience with or opinions on rocket mass heater stoves sir?

Reverse issue. I just bought my Elite with a Kohler and 48" deck to replace my 25 year old Toro Zmaster. I am so used to the Toro handles and when I pulled back on my BB it hit me in the stomach. I'm 5‘10 215 lbs. Not too fat haha. I reversed the bolts, moved the sticks to the top hole only and cocked them out as much as possible. What I feel may be my biggest issue is a user error. I realized I can open the sticks up slightly to widen the handle gap and it gives me more room to pull the sticks back. I hope this made sense and can help someone. I look forward to many years of mowing with my Bad Boy

Chris, do you have any vitex seeds to sell? I thought you normally harvest around December.

I just got mine installed but mine get to hot to engage catalytic converter. Home many pieces of wood do you put in over a night fire. Also once temp is in range is it ok to leave catalytic converter on over night what would happen if temperature get to low.

Threaded cap screws are the way to go. I shim the tall rib with cedar wood for a tight seat. Never put metal over shingled roofs they do not seat flat well at all. Tar paper is cool for sure. The bitch with any fasteners is the voids in the plywood or chipboard. When the fastener just drops into the wood. YOU have to fix the hole you just made. The method chosen means a lot. My neighbor used bolts that get washers and nuts under the roof itself. THIS IS THE WAY TO GO. THE BEST FASTING METHOD. NAILS NOT SO MUCH.... The best way to make a metal roof. PEROD !!!!

On the flat, on the peak, on the flat, on the peak................. This is one topic where there is no consensus, it's like Ford vs Chevy... 14 years ago I built fair size garage, roof at 35° - ish, 16' on both sides of peak, with regular synthetic underlayment for metal roofing. The metal roof seller recommended 2-in screws every 2ft- ish on peaks, so thats what I did. I also first pre-drilled panels on saw-horses which is a good idea, but dont pre-drill rib where the top panel over-laps, and After 5 years I went back up on roof and noticed some screws loosen and a few broke but still had a lot of screws holding, and no leaks yet..... 2 years ago I built an addition on my house, 14ft out and 30ft long with very shallow pitch, some where around 1in drop/ft. I have 2 ft eve, so the first 8 in wide boards are on the eve, then the next row I have 3/4 in gap, the rest of 1 in x 6-8-10 in wide in boards are tight rest of way. Then I put down recommended metal roof whether shield, that stuff should be put down with two people, I started at that 3/4 in gap on eve... My theory for that was, if water/moisture builds up on top of whether shield it will flow out that 3/4 in gap between boards, which it did til I got addition insulated. Then I started by placing 4 metal sheets on saw-horses and pre-drilled holes on flats and used 1 in screws, I notice these new screws didn't have as thick of rubber washer as before. So then I paced those foam seals at end of metal roof to help keep the wind from catching the metal roof peaks, then placed screws about every 4 in across the end of metal roof, so with gable rakes screwed down theres no way this metal roof will blow off...... So I screwed all this addition metal roof down on all flats except for the top where is metal flashing going up under previous asphalt shingles on main house, that is caulked and screwed about every 6 in across, then same at the eve, there I also did flats and peaks. So all rest of 16ft panels is screwed down on flats for same reason this video describes, and for the very same reason this video described.... So, on flat on on peaks...... IMO, flats are better for same reason describe in this video, another reason is it's easier to just set the drill driver to correct torque run screws down, on the peaks it's so easy to easy to over tighten, it's a constant pain when trying to just get the metal roof screwed down. But either way flat or peaks, I really dont see how metal roof can leak with that rubber washer, that rubber wash is protected by a big steel special shaped washer which is on top of rubber washer, and it is holding that rubber washer to the roof. As this video described, the heat moves the peaks not the flats, so the screws on flats wont move........... But either way, if someone is putting down metal roof and has a shallow pitch, I highly recommend metal roof whether shield made for metal roofs................

Yep. It's a controversy.....and the real reason for this video. On the ribs it is. That's where water does not run. The wall are ok to screw to the flat. I don't recommend screwing the roof down on the flat.

I bought that device a month ago.

Screws and blackjack. Good to go.

No.

I just reroofed the roof on my giant chicken coop. I put two screws in the valleys. Does not leak and our texas rain has put her to the test. No issues. Screw in the valley like the manufacturers suggest.

Thanks for the video

Great video. Thanks.

You have to screw into the ribs for snow bars. I would at least caulk under, if doing it again. I chose snow bars, since the shoes screwed into the flat are known to cause leaks, being on the flat and if they break off, I read.

As far as I can tell, America is the only place on earth that screws or nails steel roofing down in the water channel and not the top of the ridge, as it was designed for! Corrugated roofing sheets were invented in London back in 1829 and within 12 months were being shipped to Australia and used in early construction, both the English and the Australians still fix our sheets on the ridge and never in the valleys, as it was designed.. just sayin 😁😁

You need to silicone the screwheads on metal roof , I just re did a whole interior of living room that had to be gutted because of screws backing out by themselves on a metal roof. The silicone appears to absorb the expansion and contraction energy and stops them from backing out. Just dont look good if you take a hard look at the silicone wod . The screws backing out and the UV destruction of gasket material are the biggest enemy of a metal roof.. Silicone appears to resolve and holds up over time from what Ive seen

Looks like it's not your first chimney fire. The damper should never be closed more than half way.

Screws put into the flats into wood below will positively leak from cyclic heating and cooling, and the resultant leak will rot the wood below. Guaranteed. Use longer screws into the ribs, tightened just enough to "take the slack out", while only slightly compressing the sealing washer. Built one this way in 2006......24' x 42' , slope 1/2 on 12. zero leaks 18 years later.

Done post frame building in the Midwest for 25 yrs, company worked for been in business since 1958 and we had Engineers from Purdue University, we only did the lap and next too rib on the flat of steel, building had wind rating of 80 mph for residential and 90 mph for commercial, they did loose to many buildings, except for tornadoes.

In Australia we have exactly the same profile metal roofing you had in the video. My dad is a retired carpenter/builder with over 50 years in the trade and he would beg to differ. Screws always at the top of the rib, never on the flats and also the structure of the roof is stronger with correct length screws at the top of the ribs. If anyone on a building site put screws or nails in the flats or valleys they would probably lose their job.

I can see the logic in what you are saying. I am not a roofer by trade but have worked on many corrugated iron roofs over the last 40 years and I have never seen roofs attached via nails or screws on the flats. Interesting what you have said.

Do the opposite to what this guy is saying and you will be fine, do not but your nail’s or screw in the lower profile part of the iron.

I've installed them both ways. Usually if there is a leak it's because the screw was overtightened and split the washer. If that happens it would be less likely to leak in the rib, obviously. If they're tightened correctly it shouldn't be an issue either way.

going through the ribs takes common sense to figure out, high spot will have less water, but common sense not too common these days, lol

When you walk on the roof the nails or screws tend to come out a bit and the seal is broken and more water will penetrate if you put the nails in the valleys. I own a large factory and every summer I need to renovate parts of the roof. What I see is that screwing in the valleys hasn't worked over time. It's not helping to tighten the screws either, I tried that but the holes in the wood just becomes larger and the screws comes out even faster. Due to the wast amount of snow we get over a meter it's necessary to showel away the snow, hence walking on the roof. The drawback on screwing on the ridge is that the shovel catches the screws. The best thing to do is to just build roofs that don't accumulate a lot of snow. In areas without snow I would screw in the valleys.

What if I said I had 2 metal roofs that have had about 4 screws in them each for the past 6 years… granted the metal I used was a bit heavier bring commercial grade.😂😂 honestly I’m very surprised they’ve held. Been like 2 or 3 hurricanes now… I believe the wood will rot before that roof goes 🤣

Can you do a video on lap screws and where they go ?

Can only speak for NZ roofing culture... 1. Make your roof framing strong. You don't need additional structural strength from the roof cladding if your roof bracing is up to scratch 2. Putting a screw where the water runs as opposed to where it doesn't will increase the chance of leaks... Even if anecdotal testimonies claim no leaks 3. Rubber seals deform to meet the shape of the roof. Even if there is a round, they will form a perfect seal 4. Roof moment will not decrease the integrity of screws if you use the correct gauge screw. Sheet metal is way more moveable than the screw, movement will occur in the sheet, not the screw 5. You can screw the troughs at the ends over the eves so any leaks won't go inside the building and you'll still get the extra strength of the small fixing gap. 6. NZ roofing code never recommends valley fixing. You can read up on load forces and fastening recommendations in the roofing code here: www.metalroofing.org.nz/sites/default/files/RoofingCOP_v24-09_2024-09-01.pdf People love to hear different methods that have a sense of good reason to them. But the truth is they are alternative for a reason. The tried and tested method is almost always the best method.

Also on the structural element, I don’t know how you guys build in the US but here in Australia, the only structural load the sheets should have is lifting force.

So my dad is a water proofer and roofer ect, we also used to contract with his mate that was a roofer, dead now. My mate is a roofer. Here in Australia we always screw on top of the ribs, screws with the gasket, you tighten until the gasket gets a little crush and stop.

I don t care about getting rock whatever any more ...KZbin sure is sick in forcing ads on me and when i comment they dont want me to talk about the sick ad theyt present me.

You're screw placement is incorrect boss. According to manufacturer specs, you would want to screw in the first channel of the valley compared to the last as you pointed out. The only time that would be different is if you weren't overlapping with another panel. The overlapping panel holds down the last rib on each piece. The bottom row (along the eve), and the closest valley column up a rake on each side would have two per valley. The exception being if you're using rake trim, you would leave the most outside screw off, because it would be receiving the rake trim which is screwed down there.

If the panel is screwed close to the rib or the middle, the difference in ‘structure’ would be nada. Then if the reason you don’t screw them together is to allow movement, then where is the structural integrity aspect gone? Then you show the peak screw “allowing a lot of leverage” which speaks against your point of peak screws not allowing movement. You are all over the place, which says to me this is a very surface level understanding. As it is I wouldn’t be able to take any of this as ‘correct’. Just watched an actual roof manufacturer demonstrate how to correctly set screws into both flat and peak.

A problem with screwing in the valleys on a 4/12 pitch roof is leaves get stuck on screws. Steel roof companies need to invent contoured battens to fit corregated steel roofing. Or better yet - some kind of contoured / insulated sheeting pannels instead of battens. Easy and fast to install. Pannels could be made of some kind of dense, fireproof, fiber reinforced foam. Very strong and quiet in the rain. Could fasten through ribs and would be strong and never leak. Million dollar idea.

Math at the end. I like the theory and I personally put metal in with one screw per pan, plus one (differently shaped) stitching screw in the conjoined panel ribs. We align overlay to not catch prevailing winds and it had worked so far. We're mostly dry climate, which helps. The coefficient of expansion is 0.0000065 "/"/°F. With a 200 delta F, that's a 0.0013" growth per existing inch. Over a 36" sheet width, it's 0.0468" or about 3/64". Also, no thermal expansion is accounted for along the length of the sheet which can be in excess of 20'.

So... every one following the instructions is wrong but voiding the warranty and making leaky roofs is the right way. Gotcha.