When I was a young teen, I helped my daddy build a small barn he used heavy gauge corrugated metal on the roof and on the side walls. We nailed on the top of ribs with lead headed nails. It's never leaked and it's still being used to this day. I'm now 76 years old.

Insurance adjuster told me that lead nails got outlawed. A tree fell on the roof. Have a 47-year-old build that has galvanized roof with the lead nails. The roof did not leak and never had a problem with a a loose panel. The galvanized tin was made out of 28 gauge. I built this building when i was a kid and the nails were put in the top of the ridge. In addition, i have spare lead nails. I'm going back with lead nails. The nails are 2 inches long with the special designed head. The lead nails are far better than screws. Screws are brittle and can break. I have not researched why lead nails were outlawed. My grandfather was smart enough to buy extra galvanized sheets and nails when the building was built. This came in handy to make fast repairs to protect the inside of the building.

When you screw through the top of the rib it voids the warranty

Putting a screw down the center of the panel between ribs is perfectly fine. I have never seen a problem with that method.

I can debunk this. Lay metal flat and even and put some screws on the rib and flats but leave the screw loose. Let the snow lay on it and check it again you will see the flats leak because water rides the flats and will go right in hole but on the rib it has no option but to run off the rib to the flats. The big key when you put screws on the ribs. You're going to want to check all the screws at the end of the job. You're going to want to lightly walk on the ribs and listen for a pop if you hear a pop stop and tighten the screw but dot destroy the rubber washer.

Show the proper place to put screws , etc.

Always through the elevated rib, never pierce where the water runs, thats nust commin sense and good work practice 👍

🐂💩

You were so helpful with the high rate burn info. I have one more question. The top of my temp gauge is not placed right. It needs to be lowered so the needle can give an actual reading. The installer did adjust it once but it seems to have gone back to its original position. Any ideas??

Putting the screws in the valley is fine, except you have to screw the ridge on the overlap. I'm not a contractor, but a claims adjuster. On a building with a 20 foot sidewall the wind will tear those roof panels. Rips them like paper.

You're a few years too late to do me any good. I reroofed an old mobile home, and it's given me problems ever since. I'm actually considering reattaching it properly, removing the screws on the peaks, and patching the holes.

Another seldom mentioned problem with putting fasteners on top of the rib is metal "creep". This is caused by different torques being applied as you work your way horizontally across the roof. If you compress the top of the rib much at all, it will expand the edge ever so slightly beyond its natural point. On a roof with a really long fascia edge this can amount to several inches by the time the last piece is installed. Almost guarantees an interesting final cut.

This is what I came to learn from our metal roof. A metal roof is impervious to water until you put 16 screw holes in the water channel. If the screws are placed on the rib where water does not flow, it won't leak.

I think it varies from country to country. Here in South Africa we have what is known as IBR sheeting and the suppliers say to screw into the top of the ridge with long screws and rubber backed washers.

Thanks for the interesting info on the schedule! Funny how no seriously respected contractor in my area follows them. Might ask them about this next time I see one.

Really need to know the basice of an exceptional burn. Bypass open or closed?

Here in Australia if you screwed through the flat the job would be condemned. I have seen several American roofing contractors change from the stupid idea of screwing through the flat to screwing through the ribs.

Seems dumb to put screw holes in the flat. This is where the water is directed. This works for a few years. But screws always get loose. A loose screw on the rib still sheds water. Screws in the flat always leak.

I'm retired now but I remember the supplier of metal some times say though the ridge others would say the flat area . We always did what ever they said but I liked though the flat area better . That was with screws I have never used nails but I have removed old roofing that used nails with lead . My old barn has it that way and it was probably built in the late 40s or early 50s . They are constantly coming loose so when I repair I replace with screws .

Roofing for over 30 years and every metal roof i have ever inspected with the screws in the flats always have leaks. Furthermore the manufacturer on SC says you can nail it in the profile so if you can nail it in the profile a screw is no different. Andwral be structural is a crock of shit. It is cosmetic just as shingles or any other roof covering. So thank you for telling people to zcrew in the flats I will be replacing a whole lot more of these so called structural roof and making bank.

The reason they recommended screwing on the flat versus ridge, was that it looked more asthetic because the screw wasn't noticeable when looking at the rows of screws from the side across the roof or wall! Look at the two and you will see especially if the ridge screws are not in an exact line?!

doing it wrong number of times still doesn’t make it right The contractors in my area really screw the roof up putting it on over asphalt shingles not a good plan then they strap horizontal with no verticals under them to let sweat out and a little more air flow their only relief is they will not likely be around when the issues show up

We have wider and flatter tops of ribs on our t-rib sheets here in New Zealand, and we normally put the screws at the top of the rib yes. This is to avoid water pooling around your screw and eventually making its way in. When the screw is at the top of the rib, the water runs down the rib, and it is not accumulated around the screw. So does the dirt, pollen, dust, leaves and little pieces of litter that accumulate on the roof over time. When the screw is at the valley, it blocks the way of the solid deposits down the gutter. As a result, you get dirt deposits accumulated around each screw and this dirt keeps the water in it resulting in faster corrosion of your roof metal. When the screw is at the top of the rib, the dirt is washed down the roof with the rain without any blockage, which reduces the need for maintenance of the roof surface.

This is a hot, touchy topic. I like your comment of the roofing adding structural strength, if your structure needs that, then do what the manufacturer says. My experience, and it's not anywhere as lengthy as yours I admit, has shown me that living on the wet west coast of Canada where it rains 10 months of the year except when it's snowing it's better to put screws in the ribs. Screws on the flat near the peak and under the peak flashing are fine, screws near the bottom over a well ventilated eave where things can dry out are ok, especially if it's open and you can see any leakage. Just my experience, not Gospel.

Its Called 5V Simi Crimpt Metal Roofing And You Never Ever Screw in The Flats With Heating and Contracting of The Metal Roof Will Waller Out the Hole and Will Leak.... You Screw in The Ridges Always and They Never Leak because water runs in the Flat not The Ridge Ever You Screw Where You Want but You Sir are Full of Shit

I believe the guide pin on the main shaft is supposed to be inside the slot on the frame near the top

hip ridge flashing?

I've been roofing since 1980 and these types of metal roofing panels were always listed as utility panel, NOT recomended for finised or occupied structures. Somewhere around 10-15 years ago that language disappeared from the literature. I inspect roofs now and these things always leak. When I install them, I always put the screws through the tops of the ribs, but you have to make sure not to over drive them. Fix the overlapping rib first, let the panel relax, then fix the next overlapping panel to set on position and go back to screw down inner ribs in staggered pattern to reduce splaying of ribs. There are many reasons for leaking when fixing in pan from crooked or under driven fasteners. Over driving (impact drivers are the most common cause) will herniate the neoprene washer resulting in stress cracking. The bubble wrap insulation makes it impossible to get a good seal unless you over drive the screws then you herniate the washer. Finally, proper metal roofing allows for expansion and contraction of the metal, this type inhibits it and will elongate the screw holes, especially if you drive the screws down through headlaps of two panels or trims. DO NOT install this type of metal roofing on your house!!!

You are correct! I built my shop nearly 29 years ago using 29ga master rib, metal with hydro block fabric underlayment. Never had a leak not once! Though had a tree fall on it and insurance paid to have half of it replaced. Long story short this so call 30+ year roofer replaced it without the underlayment and screws in the ribs! Nothing but leaks since in the new roof! Had it inspected by roofing manufacturer that supplied the materials only to find out any warranty is now voided because of screws in rib and over tightened!

Old retired man here from the Southeast USA. I did everything you said NOT to. I put a metal roof V5 on my house in 1999. Through Rain, Sleet, Heat, Snow, Hurricanes and Hail I have NOT had One leak at this writing and it's November 16, 2024 (25 years). Note: I also used the 30 Pound Tar Paper and long Shanked nails with a rubber washer. And I made sure that the first panel OVERLAPPED the second panel, the second panel OVERLAPPED the third panel and so forth. Because of the direction of the wind in my area, This was to make sure the wind or rain did not blow under any panels, only OVER each panel. ALWAYS pay attention to details. I'M not saying I'm right to do it this way it's just the way I think. I'm an expert on NOTHING. 😁 Over the years my metal roof has weathered and it AIN'T pretty. But it AIN'T leaking either. 😜 .

In my country that roof iron is called trapezoid profile. It is specified as it used on flat roofs, 2 to 5 degrees. The last place I’d use to fix is the flat. Everything moves with temperature change. Who will argue that the flat point is better than the rib? If water finds a way through, all of his friends will follow. Water runs down the flat having been joined by droplets immediately ejected from the ribs.

Great explanation and advice. Been doing it wrong for too long.

Exactly, I began doing this back in 1988 building my first house and have been doing it this way ever since. I think this method was fairly new back then or at least I found very little info on it but it made perfect sense to me and it certainly does add structural strength to the roof when not using plywood sheathing. I wished I had a dollar for every person that told me I was doing it wrong through the years!

I would say just following the metal roofing panel manufacturing schedule. More screws at edges, peak due to wind loads.

Well said thank you

I just double checked my metal provider’s site for nailing schedules: They are showing long screws adjacent to the ribs, approximately 1/2-inch away, and 5/8-inch long stitching screws to secure the tops of the ribs together at the seam. And the spacing between the rows of screws is dependent on the maximum wind speed. Always use get the manufacturers installation instruction sheets, and follow their pattern. The only exception is if you are working from a set of plans and specifications, which are sealed by a design professional. Then follow their instructions.

👍 I've had people give me a lot of grief about using the flats. Some manufacturer's will void their warrantee if you use the rib. Follow their installation instructions.

I put my shop tin on in 1977 ,ring shank nails ,top of ribs still doesn't leek, tar paper under neath,live in Oregon 40 miles from the ocean, yes it rains alot.

Finally a logical breakdown!

Thanks for the vid! This means when I put my metal roof on 20 years ago I did it wrong.

Been doing metal roofing for 50 plus years, use R panel or u panel, always use mastic in between your sheets, very seldom used lap screws. If your metal building is square always pre-drill all your sheets, stack them together and drill them all at one time, this will eliminate the steel burrs from underneath the seal washer on the screw. Also with wood screws on wood decking or slats. Also on wood dip the end of the screw in glue it will help the screw from backing out over the period of the years, and yes the screw will back out and leak.

You are so full of shit , you have no idea what the hell you are talking about , putting screws thru the ribs have been the standard and proven not to leak for 1oo years .

Yep

You explained to me, you know very little about metal roofing ....

The problem is, some manufacturers still suggest screwing down through the ribs. Most recommend screwing down on the flats. Some pros I know screw down through the ribs. Most don't. I have put up a lot of roofing, and I have come to dislike exposed fastener roofing. My wife I have decided to replace our entire metal roof with a standing seam roof, as the screws need retightening from time to time and the purlins start to rot over many years. Yes, its will be expensive, but I should have spent the money in the first place.

Thermal affects aside, I can’t see a great argument for the fasteners in the flat. Installing fasteners into the ridge creates 100% watertightness, but installing in the flat assumes the washer (without sealant) will maintain water tightness for years. Meh.

Good vid. The whole idea of nailing on metal roofing is ...that one anomalous high winds day will toss your roof into your neighbor's house. Follow mfg instructions and be suspicious of cheap roofing, ie, crosscheck with experts like this fellow.

Modern meal roofing instructions will tell you where and how many to put the screws in. They say on the flat so you can properly tighten the screw. If you put them in the rib to get the washer to seal properly you need to deform the pannel. You will be walking the roofing right off the roof by doing it in the rib.

Ideal roofing wants the screws in the ribs.

Interesting to hear your thought process. I have never considered the steel to be structural. I screw on the ribs. They don't leak even on my reused tin that has ribs with no screws and I never got around to caulking on my woodshed. If it were on the flat that would not work. But you are right about everything you are saying here. The screws will hold tight, unlike the nails, and manufacturers do recommend what you are saying. expansion and contraction happens between each rib though, not on the whole roof when you screw through the ribs, because the screws are not tight to the wood like they are when you screw on the flat. It does work to screw through the ribs but I am feeling intrigued now about what you are saying here. I'd like to do a roof with more shorter screws like you are saying to see the difference first hand