Why you should not put screws on the ribs of metal roofing

[@DD-uf2uo]

Old retired man here from the Southeast USA. I did everything you said NOT to. I put a metal roof V5 on my house in 1999. Through Rain, Sleet, Heat, Snow, Hurricanes and Hail I have NOT had One leak at this writing and it's November 16, 2024 (25 years). Note: I also used the 30 Pound Tar Paper and long Shanked nails with a rubber washer. And I made sure that the first panel OVERLAPPED the second panel, the second panel OVERLAPPED the third panel and so forth. Because of the direction of the wind in my area, This was to make sure the wind or rain did not blow under any panels, only OVER each panel. ALWAYS pay attention to details. I'M not saying I'm right to do it this way it's just the way I think. I'm an expert on NOTHING. 😁 Over the years my metal roof has weathered and it AIN'T pretty. But it AIN'T leaking either. 😜 .

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@DD-uf2uo you installed 5v right if you put it in ribs as that metal was designed to work that way. The space between the ribs is perfectly flat with no shallow creases which is more flexible. The nails only are 1/2 inch from the decking. I installed several 5v ribs dating back to 1990s.This video is about modern metal roofing which works a little different due to the height of the ribs and the rigidness of the panel.thanks for commenting.also you may want to think about having your old roof painted. They make direct to metal paint that will extent the life of the roof.

[@DD-uf2uo]

@honeybeehomesteading 👍. Thanks and Have a great day.

[@Zingo-sq4vq]

Here in Australia roofers screw with rubber washer on the ridge. My old tin roof had led hat nails on the ridge also. No leaks on my new roof either.

[@DD-uf2uo]

@Zingo-sq4vq 👍

[@penney304]

When I was a young teen, I helped my daddy build a small barn he used heavy gauge corrugated metal on the roof and on the side walls. We nailed on the top of ribs with lead headed nails. It's never leaked and it's still being used to this day. I'm now 76 years old.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@penney304 you installed it right. I too installed roofing the same way only with rubber washers as I am 20 years your jr. The metal ribs were shorter and the flats did not have any ridges. It was the right way to put on old metal. This metal is different as it is engineered to be both structural and much more wind resistant. Thanks for commenting.

[@jayleeper1512]

I have done it both ways on my farm. Those with the screws through the rib never leaked. Every roof with screws in the flats leaked and had to be replaced. Anybody that tells you to screw in flats is wrong. Just don’t tighten the screws too much and deform the rib.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

the roof manufacturer will say different unless you are dealing with 5v

[@kerriwilson7732]

@@honeybeehomesteading the manufacturers want to argue against the laws of physics, let em. 🤣

[@JimFrye-ub3kq]

Absolutely right! I've had those same results for decades.

[@Cotronixco]

We have been building with metal sheeting for 40 years with the fasteners on the flats and have never see any leaks. Just strength.

[@jayleeper1512]

@ must be a different climate. Here winter freeze/thaw eventually causes leaks as the screws loosen.

[@RogerDurham-v9s]

The people who put the metal roof on my house did a wonderful job. They had a guy on the ground, & put the screws in the ribs, but pulled them down just enough to touch the rib & keep the line straight. The put screws in the flats at the end of the roof near the gutters. They told me never to get on the roof, & it will never give any problem. It is almost 20 years old.

[@roberte.bennett8327]

This is what I came to learn from our metal roof. A metal roof is impervious to water until you put 16 screw holes in the water channel. If the screws are placed on the rib where water does not flow, it won't leak.

[@bobsmithers]

Yeppers. Manufacturers recommend this way as well. Just did a roof last year on the ribs. No leaks!

[@honeybeehomesteading]

Honestly i wish manufacturers had just one screw schedule as it causes problems for everybody. some panels are engineered differently. I understand why manufacturers want you to screw in the flat vs the rib. What ever the manufacturer recommends is the right way in the end as they can void your warranty doing it different. Thanks for commenting

[@shanerorko8076]

So my dad is a water proofer and roofer ect, we also used to contract with his mate that was a roofer, dead now. My mate is a roofer. Here in Australia we always screw on top of the ribs, screws with the gasket, you tighten until the gasket gets a little crush and stop.

[@Bay0Wulf]

I dunno. I’ve done several jobs with this “modern” metal. Growing up partially in Maine, metal was very popular due to snow and the method there was always fastening through the peaks of the ribs. I saw the instructions about using the flats but I couldn’t make it make sense to me. The “washers” on the screws have been rubber or more usually an open cell foam and relying on them to maintain a watertight seal and not to fail due to drying out in the sun and placing them in what is essentially the bottom of the “gutter” just seems like a recipe for failure. I use the top of the peak with longer screws that are available taking care not to deform or squash the ridge because water cannot gather or sit there. I’ve had no problems. I do use red rosen paper as an underlayment between solid wood sheathing to protect against any irregularities that might cause friction.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@Bay0Wulf those rubber washers actually bond to the metal, that is why they work. Thank you for commenting

[@Bay0Wulf]

​@@honeybeehomesteading So … if the washers go around an immobile screw but are bonded to a mobile (constantly expanding & contracting) material, how do they avoid being ripped, split or otherwise degraded at the point of bonding and simply being a “funnel” point for liquid (a leak)?

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@Bay0Wulf there is some room for the washer to move in the center without negating the bond as the rubber can compress and expand. But if you overtighten the screws they become just as you described a funnel.. overtightening on the rib ia harder to do as the rib deforms easy. Proper screw installation is a must. I throw away a dozen screws that got overtightened on every roof I have ever done. Better to throw away screws than risk a leak.

[@TheRonster1957]

Here in Australia, where metal roofing is very common, the screws are always installed through the centre of the peaks, never the valleys. The real trick is to not over tighten the screw, so as to not deform the metal or squish the seal out of the screw head. As my neighbour, who is a roofer, told me, once the seal makes contact with the roof, just a smidgeon more and no more.

[@drizler]

I put up a barn in 1990 and pulled it down in 2017. The screws had just a bit of surface rust and the neoprene washers in perfect condition. I still use them over for here and there repairs on things . Those seals seem to last forever.

[@robertt6292]

Rib is where the water isn't, don't over think it.

[@MS-ig7ku]

True, it leaks on the flat.

[@Chez8922-kf6cy]

IKR?

[@dllion3196]

Screws especially here in Canada, with cold winters and warm summers, screws will work themselves out. If in the flats, the roof will leak. I have seen roofs leak from day one when screwed in on the flats. If it is screwed on the rib, water runs down each side and not through. Shingles are not structural and metal roofing should not be either. Metal roofing is to keep water out and for a long time. It is different if screwing metal on a side of a building, which is probably what the instructions are for.

[@MS-ig7ku]

@@dllion3196 Yes a wood screws or nail is never going to be a reliable water proof seal, and the washers harden and go bad fairly fast as well.

[@dllion3196]

@@MS-ig7ku Even the proper screws work themselves out over a period of 15 yrs or so. They always need to be retightened at some point. Nails are a definite no-no.

[@ern48]

Exactly, I began doing this back in 1988 building my first house and have been doing it this way ever since. I think this method was fairly new back then or at least I found very little info on it but it made perfect sense to me and it certainly does add structural strength to the roof when not using plywood sheathing. I wished I had a dollar for every person that told me I was doing it wrong through the years!

[@jameshewitt182]

We had a metal roof placed on our commercial office building. They put the screws on the flat surface and after a short while it was leaking all over. When the sun heated the metal it caused the metal to move and caused the screws to back out of the wood which in turn caused water to come through the roof where the screws went through the metal roof. Never had that problem when the screws or nails went through the ridges.

[@ern48]

​@@jameshewitt182 Interesting, maybe too many fasteners was the fault. I've only seen the problem happen with fasteners on the ridges because the expanding metal in the rib jacks them right out due to there is no other place for the expanding metal to go except up. I only put one screw beside each rib not on both sides leaving room for the expansion and have never once had a problem.

[@vonhalberstadt3590]

I am watching immediately before installing a roof on my utility room expansion. You probably kept me kosher with my inspector. Much obliged .

[@honeybeehomesteading]

Make sure you check your roofing manufacturer on the screw schedule just to be safe and thanks for watching.

[@pauloconnor7951]

This guy has everything about the screws incorrect. I'm surprised he doesn't invert the sheet.

[@AlexthunderGnum]

We have wider and flatter tops of ribs on our t-rib sheets here in New Zealand, and we normally put the screws at the top of the rib yes. This is to avoid water pooling around your screw and eventually making its way in. When the screw is at the top of the rib, the water runs down the rib, and it is not accumulated around the screw. So does the dirt, pollen, dust, leaves and little pieces of litter that accumulate on the roof over time. When the screw is at the valley, it blocks the way of the solid deposits down the gutter. As a result, you get dirt deposits accumulated around each screw and this dirt keeps the water in it resulting in faster corrosion of your roof metal. When the screw is at the top of the rib, the dirt is washed down the roof with the rain without any blockage, which reduces the need for maintenance of the roof surface.

[@Cotronixco]

That's fine, but then you'd have to add much more structure because you're going to lose all of the strength of the sheet metal. And a flat is not a valley. And, we have been building with metal sheeting for 40 years with the fasteners on the flats and have never see leaks. Just strength.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

From what you describe it sounds like what you describe is what we call a R2 panel. Those panels I installed were heavier guage than what is in the video. From a water only standpoint screwing in the rib is the logical way to go. from a thermal expansion and wind resistance it is not. thanks for commenting and i hope things go well for your country as you have been in our news.

[@PoisonShot20]

You explained it much better than I did. Thanks!

[@bonesrhodes3762]

yep: but y'alls metal roofs are different than those commonly used in the US - they are usually heavier gauge and the ribs higher and straighter - y'all also use a corrugated roof that instead of being like a series of wavey "w"s is like a series of "U"s ( every other one inverted ) with the sides straight - y'all also use a larger screw and washer system

[@JosephBoxmeyer-u3d]

I have considered placing a one inch diam. dowel under the high points and then drilling before screwing in longer screws with rubber grommets.

[@eddiewurtz-bt5dt]

I agree with you on every point you made, well said .I've been doing this for years, none other than this, it works,amen

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@eddiewurtz-bt5dt thanks for watching and commenting I do appreciate it.

[@Brad-sh2wn]

This guy is wrong. Just don't screw it down too tight. If you don't screw it into the wood. The metal roofing will be flying off in a

[@montanadan2524]

I built the cabin I am currently sitting in 30 years ago. A group of family and friends helped put on the metal roof on it in one weekend. None of us had ever done this type of roof before. The installation instructions were found between the last two sheets of the custom order lenghts so not seen until almost complete. Not only did we drive the screws in the peak of each rib, we also had the inside edge rib on the outside. Place has never leaked. Did not predrilled and would not advise doing that unless you are laying flat on 4x8' sheets which I believe voids warrenty, we installed a 1x4" cross lattice.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

wow glad you didn't have any leaks, that is the great thing about the new screws they really don't leak if they are properly tightened. I am surprised you don't get any buckling in the summer though with each panel screwed into the other. You can predrill as long as it is a very small hole no bigger than one eighth and if you are pre drilling you should do allot of sheets at once with good support underneath. thanks for watching

[@dkeith45]

I always take a 16 or 20 penny nail and sharpen the end on a bench grinder and use it as a punch to make a small hole in the rib before running the screw in.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@dkeith45 I always used a screw tapped with a hammer. I have also used a automatic punch with success when the punch worked right.

[@dkeith45]

@@honeybeehomesteading I've tried the screw method, it's a bit difficult to hold onto the small screw, the thread bites your fingers etc. The auto punch, snap punch, works but often doesn't leave enough of a dent for my liking.

[@serafinaspapa]

Finally someone with some sense! Thank you!

[@nathanhatcher7096]

You are correct! I built my shop nearly 29 years ago using 29ga master rib, metal with hydro block fabric underlayment. Never had a leak not once! Though had a tree fall on it and insurance paid to have half of it replaced. Long story short this so call 30+ year roofer replaced it without the underlayment and screws in the ribs! Nothing but leaks since in the new roof! Had it inspected by roofing manufacturer that supplied the materials only to find out any warranty is now voided because of screws in rib and over tightened!

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@nathanhatcher7096 I am sorry to hear that. There are a bunch of roofers out there that never read anything supplied with the roofing and are quick to call me a idiot. I was a licensed contractor and was never a full time roofer. The only reason I started doing them at the time very few people knew how to install them. Prior to 1990 most insurance companies did not want to insure metal roofs because they falsely believed they were more prone to lightning strikes. They got that information from asphalt companies wanting to replace roofs that could last 100 years to ones that could last only 20. They were helped by the lightning rod salesman the midwest that would convince you to put a lighting rod on your roof with a giant cable to the ground. They worked well and lightning struck them all the time burning many a house down. Anyone with a lick of sense would know to erect a tower of some sort away and taller than the house to help protect against lightning. Thanks for commenting and sharing.

[@jeffkennedy9028]

Done post frame building in the Midwest for 25 yrs, company worked for been in business since 1958 and we had Engineers from Purdue University, we only did the lap and next too rib on the flat of steel, building had wind rating of 80 mph for residential and 90 mph for commercial, they did loose to many buildings, except for tornadoes.

[@PeterJ-ij6mm]

I think it varies from country to country. Here in South Africa we have what is known as IBR sheeting and the suppliers say to screw into the top of the ridge with long screws and rubber backed washers.

[@court2379]

They probably use thicker steel so it is strong enough to not deflect and put enough pressure on the seal. The stuff in the US is usually very thin. Because of that the rib just smashes and doesn't seal.

[@gort5583]

I can see the logic in what you are saying. I am not a roofer by trade but have worked on many corrugated iron roofs over the last 40 years and I have never seen roofs attached via nails or screws on the flats. Interesting what you have said.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@gort5583 allot of the wavy roofs are self correcting on thermal expansion with the panels growing taller instead of wider. If you follow the manufacturers screw schedule you should be good

[@cobravids]

I just reroofed the roof on my giant chicken coop. I put two screws in the valleys. Does not leak and our texas rain has put her to the test. No issues. Screw in the valley like the manufacturers suggest.

[@richardbarber4444]

Great explanation and advice. Been doing it wrong for too long.

[@PoisonShot20]

The reason it was recommended to do on top of the ribs, was because is less chance of leaks if screw comes loose, no standing water, or running water. You get my drift.

[@richardbarber4444]

@@PoisonShot20 You read my initial thoughts yet screws on flat also have benefits.

[@pseudopetrus]

Vicwest specks screws through the rib for their roof profiles. In fact here in Ontario most all pro installs are through the rib, regardless of manufacturer.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@pseudopetrus following the specs of the manufacturer is the right way to go. Some patterns are designed to be screwed through the ribs and other not.

[@AndrewMoizer]

Very interesting. I’ve always gone through the rib, but will now go and see what the manufacturer says now. I do know that I’ve had leaks in the valley of old corrugated roofing. It is amazing how much water will drip in through a nail hole.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

i once did as well but new metal and new methods

[@springhollerfarm8668]

When you put the screw where the most water is, when it leaks, it will be a lot of water.

[@evanhughes3027]

Math at the end. I like the theory and I personally put metal in with one screw per pan, plus one (differently shaped) stitching screw in the conjoined panel ribs. We align overlay to not catch prevailing winds and it had worked so far. We're mostly dry climate, which helps. The coefficient of expansion is 0.0000065 "/"/°F. With a 200 delta F, that's a 0.0013" growth per existing inch. Over a 36" sheet width, it's 0.0468" or about 3/64". Also, no thermal expansion is accounted for along the length of the sheet which can be in excess of 20'.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

Yes it is about the math, The coefficient of expansion of steel has some variability based upon the alloy of the steel used from .0000065 to .0000072 textbook wise. i found a building material site that has the coefficient for roofing panels at .0000073 which is what i am going to use. I have done one store that had a whopping 150' length. Also remember to divide you length in half as metal will expand in both directions going to the ends of the structure. For my part i find it easier to start with a 100' run with a 100 degree temp which gives .876 or just a hair over 7/8. I use this number at it is easy to remember and i can do most of the calculations in my head. we have a 20 to 30 degree temp change on a daily basis so we will go with the average of 25 degrees. .876 /4 x .75 = .16425 which is close to 3/16 which in my opinion is way to much movement. this much movement will cause the screws to loosen or the holes to wallow out when screwed through the ribs. this of course is not a typical case more on average would be a 50 ft wide home which would yield about 1/16 which is still too much over a long time line. But if your width of metal is half that then i cant see thermal expansion being a issue in my climate. Desert climates are a whole other bag where temps can change from 50 to 75 degrees. glad i dont live there

[@markbunn8576]

I've installed them both ways. Usually if there is a leak it's because the screw was overtightened and split the washer. If that happens it would be less likely to leak in the rib, obviously. If they're tightened correctly it shouldn't be an issue either way.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

Agree 100 percent about leaks. Wind on the other hand through the ribs you do not get near the wind resistance as the screws are typically weakened by thermal expansion and contraction plus with there is no redundancy where the two pieces overlap.

[@dtl6620]

I built a 24x30 garage but had local roofers install the metal roof because I did not think I could handle the panels by myself.I purchased my metal roofing from Menard's in Wisconsin. Manufactured by Midwest Manufacturing. The installation manual showed installing on ribs at 30" OC. The local roofer said no. He wanted to install on flats 24" on center. I called Midwest and he was told to do it my way. If the washers fail (which they will at some point) they will not leak if installed on the ribs. The water flows right off of the ribs. If installed on the flats the water is directed right into the screws. Also 30" OC is sufficient to fasten the panels to the OSB sheeting with less holes in the metal sheets overall. That gives you less chance for leakage and less distortion of metal roof panels. I predrilled my holes when I added a 24' addition to the garage which I built and also installed the roofing myself. A tornado came through in 2019 and tore up my woods but the roofing stayed put!

[@honeybeehomesteading]

I am glad your roof stayed on. You did the right thing by following the manufacturers guidelines. These panels may look the same but can be engineered to handle thermal expansion differently. something you should be also aware roofs are rated by the load they can handle based among other things the number of fasteners when screwed in the flat. In the rib it is a different story as the rib is the strongest part of the roof and drilling holes through it creates weak spots so going with 30" oc might have been the better call but i have not seen the spec on your panels. I would say that if it were my roof i would want a double run of screws at the bottom just in case as the roof ages those screws may become loose. you have only 1 screw holding where the panels meet. with the screw schedule in the video you have a screw on each side of the joint which will prevent the domino effect of tear off. Thanks for commenting

[@jefferykeeper9034]

I helped build a warehouse for the company that I used to work for and they put the screws in the ribs, they had leaks all over the place the manufacturer wouldn't back up the Warranty

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@jefferykeeper9034 thanks for the story. Hope this video might help prevent that

[@tommccully2109]

Great video. Thanks.

[@------country-boy-------]

A problem with screwing in the valleys on a 4/12 pitch roof is leaves get stuck on screws. Steel roof companies need to invent contoured battens to fit corregated steel roofing. Or better yet - some kind of contoured / insulated sheeting pannels instead of battens. Easy and fast to install. Pannels could be made of some kind of dense, fireproof, fiber reinforced foam. Very strong and quiet in the rain. Could fasten through ribs and would be strong and never leak. Million dollar idea.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

they have interlocking foam strips that match the contour of the roofing. i use them in high wind areas where blowing rain might make its way under the cap. the downside is that is eliminates the natural venting of the roof

[@kmilton1593]

Each to their own way of doing things; You paid for the metal, put the screws where you want. I am 76 and still farming; just built a small 20'x36' barn and put high tensile heavier weight metal roofing on. Have built nine buildings all by myself in my lifetime. You know, we live in a high wind area near the mountains with frequent gusty winds. I don't like to put screws on the flat portions, but i do it anyways. (if i put screws on top of the ribs, then those flat areas jiggle/lift in the wind). So i always put screws on the flat areas right beside the ribs; have never had a problem or leak. We did have leaks on the first barn because we used some skinny diameter smaller screws in some places (to use up a handful of screws the neighbor gave us; i had to replace those with the bigger diameter screws). Always use the bigger diameter screws because they hold so much better. Happy building, guys.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

Thanks for the comment, as i have said before wind is the enemy as much as rain

[@shanerorko8076]

Also on the structural element, I don’t know how you guys build in the US but here in Australia, the only structural load the sheets should have is lifting force.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

besides being able to handle a weight load, roofing panels when screwed in on schedule act the same way as sheathing preventing racking of the structure. This is handy when building sheds using purlins

[@rickgillis1613]

I took a 70 year old galvanized roof off my barn last year, it was installed in July 1953, there was a piece up by the vents that had the names & date they put the roof on. & that whole roof was held on by gal spiral nails with lead washes. If you look at the holes they were all in ribs & oval from movement over the years , the bottom of the runs there were nails in the flat & they were not as oval, closer to round, I put my new roof on with screws in the flat, we will see how it goes, over a year no leak yet. My patio roof is 10+ years old, also screwed in the flat, no leaks yet.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

In the flat really does work as long as you screw it in properly. I have had only 2 leaks from 2 undertightened screws in 30 years and dozens of roofs and tens of thousands of screws

[@alholliday1808]

When I built my pole barn in 1990 metal producer, instructed me to drive nails with washers through the rib on the roof

[@honeybeehomesteading]

Yes that was standard practice 35 years ago, Times have changed and so has metal roofing, thanks for commenting

[@anthonymoya4531]

Can you do a video on lap screws and where they go ?

[@honeybeehomesteading]

I can and will see if i can get to it next week

[@akonitony2]

I had a very old time roofer tell me the reason they went to screws in the valleys was money. When they put them thru the peaks, they never leak and are basically a lifetime roof. When they put them thru the valleys, they always eventually start leaking ... and rusting as well, and the added bonus is they can only replace the screws one or two times at the most. In his reasoning here, fist he says peaked screws will not let the roof move enough for thermal expansion, then he says they don't hold it down hard enough, so which one is it? I have peaked screws on my home and valley screws on my chicken pen. Guess which one leaks just a tad here and there if it really downpours hard enough. So far my house is dry.

[@akonitony2]

One other thing I would add is you can't place the screws on the peaks of 29 guage metal, so he is correct there. Has to be 26 guages minimum. That and 5/8" sheathing by Advantec, which is water proof compared to exterior plywood, and synthetic underlayment with purlines and double-bubble insulation, and you have a roof for life. One can also go over it with white coolseal and give their AC a needed rest and make it last 3 times as long.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

It is both however one size does not fit all. for thermal expansion if you have a small roof or one that is broken up in sections that may not be a issue. As far as holding it down that part is correct as the sheets should not have much movement on them. the lack of movement from expansion and contraction comes from the joints that allow the panels to move independently. screwing through the ribs eliminates the joints ability to expand and contract which produces more movement on the screws which if you have a long roof can add up quick and cause issues

[@pinecone9045]

Thanks for the vid! This means when I put my metal roof on 20 years ago I did it wrong.

[@ericlewis4783]

Mine about 15 years. Haven't had any leaks so far. My thinking is that if a screw isn't seated right and the seal is compromised, it's gonna leak even if it's on a rib. Rain hits there too, especially when it's coming down hard.

[@mrmichaeltscott]

I did it wrong 30 years ago. On a 48 x 30 building. Hasn't leaked a drop. Still there.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

You should be good unless you have a tornado situation. if you do develop any leaks from loose screws i would recommend replacing the leaky screws with the one piece head. not only do those screws protect the washer 100% but they are a little larger in diameter so they could be used in the same hole that a worn out screw is in. I have them in this vid if you are interested. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oZ2qeHyBZ5qKo5Y

[@pinecone9045]

@@honeybeehomesteading I will watch it. Great vid thank you (this one).

[@mossig]

When you walk on the roof the nails or screws tend to come out a bit and the seal is broken and more water will penetrate if you put the nails in the valleys. I own a large factory and every summer I need to renovate parts of the roof. What I see is that screwing in the valleys hasn't worked over time. It's not helping to tighten the screws either, I tried that but the holes in the wood just becomes larger and the screws comes out even faster. Due to the wast amount of snow we get over a meter it's necessary to showel away the snow, hence walking on the roof. The drawback on screwing on the ridge is that the shovel catches the screws. The best thing to do is to just build roofs that don't accumulate a lot of snow. In areas without snow I would screw in the valleys.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

your substrate can be a factor there, i only use 5/8 or thicker decking as 1/2 inch doesn't provide enough grip. It also sounds like your screws are not tight enough initially as there should be no space between the deck and the metal. I have done several 12/12 pitched roofs but it also did one 16/12 and had to use a extra snatch so i could climb up. those roofs will not collect snow.

[@mossig]

@@honeybeehomesteading Those areas that don't have a wooden frame construction have no issues. But wood is flexible. I weigh 100kgs, ad to that one meter of snow and no matter what thickness you use it will buckle. This movements is what forces the nails/screws out. It's better to use roofing tiles on wood roofs in my climate.

[@hqlion]

In Australia we have exactly the same profile metal roofing you had in the video. My dad is a retired carpenter/builder with over 50 years in the trade and he would beg to differ. Screws always at the top of the rib, never on the flats and also the structure of the roof is stronger with correct length screws at the top of the ribs. If anyone on a building site put screws or nails in the flats or valleys they would probably lose their job.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

Well i can understand those that want to go through the ribs but you are mistaken if you think it is stronger and here is why. first you are drilling through the stongest past of the panel weakening it, second you do not have a solid surface directly under the screw and metal which will allow for more movement, three you have no redundancy at the overlap. you have one screw holding down 2 ribs where through the flat you have a screw on each side of overlapping ribs. in the event that a storm pealed a panel off going through the ribs would keep the panels together allowing for a bigger sail and lose of more panels. Through the flat the panels are independent of one another allowing for both expansion and not doing a domino effect do to wind tear off. thanks for commenting

[@alholliday1808]

When I built my pole barn in 1990 Fabel metal producer, instructed me to drive nails with washers through the rib on the roof

[@dkeith45]

Indeed. Because the top of the ribs are the highest place on the panels and are less likely to leak when the rubber washers on the screws eventually fail.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@alholliday1808 you were right to do that because you were using nails not screws. The nails always loosen with time negating the washer seal.

[@thegrantdanielsband]

@@honeybeehomesteading Wrong when the rubber seals fail?? on top of the rib is best because less likely to leak simply water has a harder time to go uphill with screws or nails in the rib🙂

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@thegrantdanielsband I don't make the screw schedule the manufacturer does. Puting screws on the ribs makes sense from a leak perspective but not from a structural hole down one.

[@thegrantdanielsband]

@honeybeehomesteading structural? If you are relying on a tin roof for structural you got more problems than I know lol 😆

[@job38four10]

On the flat, on the peak, on the flat, on the peak................. This is one topic where there is no consensus, it's like Ford vs Chevy... 14 years ago I built fair size garage, roof at 35° - ish, 16' on both sides of peak, with regular synthetic underlayment for metal roofing. The metal roof seller recommended 2-in screws every 2ft- ish on peaks, so thats what I did. I also first pre-drilled panels on saw-horses which is a good idea, but dont pre-drill rib where the top panel over-laps, and After 5 years I went back up on roof and noticed some screws loosen and a few broke but still had a lot of screws holding, and no leaks yet..... 2 years ago I built an addition on my house, 14ft out and 30ft long with very shallow pitch, some where around 1in drop/ft. I have 2 ft eve, so the first 8 in wide boards are on the eve, then the next row I have 3/4 in gap, the rest of 1 in x 6-8-10 in wide in boards are tight rest of way. Then I put down recommended metal roof whether shield, that stuff should be put down with two people, I started at that 3/4 in gap on eve... My theory for that was, if water/moisture builds up on top of whether shield it will flow out that 3/4 in gap between boards, which it did til I got addition insulated. Then I started by placing 4 metal sheets on saw-horses and pre-drilled holes on flats and used 1 in screws, I notice these new screws didn't have as thick of rubber washer as before. So then I paced those foam seals at end of metal roof to help keep the wind from catching the metal roof peaks, then placed screws about every 4 in across the end of metal roof, so with gable rakes screwed down theres no way this metal roof will blow off...... So I screwed all this addition metal roof down on all flats except for the top where is metal flashing going up under previous asphalt shingles on main house, that is caulked and screwed about every 6 in across, then same at the eve, there I also did flats and peaks. So all rest of 16ft panels is screwed down on flats for same reason this video describes, and for the very same reason this video described.... So, on flat on on peaks...... IMO, flats are better for same reason describe in this video, another reason is it's easier to just set the drill driver to correct torque run screws down, on the peaks it's so easy to easy to over tighten, it's a constant pain when trying to just get the metal roof screwed down. But either way flat or peaks, I really dont see how metal roof can leak with that rubber washer, that rubber wash is protected by a big steel special shaped washer which is on top of rubber washer, and it is holding that rubber washer to the roof. As this video described, the heat moves the peaks not the flats, so the screws on flats wont move........... But either way, if someone is putting down metal roof and has a shallow pitch, I highly recommend metal roof whether shield made for metal roofs................

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@job38four10 thanks for your lengthy reply I am sure others will appreciate it as well. I agree with you 100 percent. The foam under the cap you may want to only do only on the windy side as this will prevent wind from blowing through while also allowing your roof to breathe.

[@job38four10]

@@honeybeehomesteading { " while also allowing your roof to breathe. " }

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@job38four10 cutting rafters at 90 was how it used to be done back in the Victorian days. 1/12 pitch is a mighty flat roof. Far more shallow than the roofing specs at. Where there is a will there is a way. I hope you don't live in snow country as that could get bad in a blizzard. Not on a leak issue as it seems you have that worked but but on a weight issue due to the snow load.

[@job38four10]

@@honeybeehomesteading { " cutting rafters at 90 was how it used to be done back in the Victorian days. " }

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@job38four10 lap steel roofing like the one in the video is rated for 3/12 pitch or better. On flat roofs of around 1/12 I always went with EPDM rubber roofing. With a 50# snow load you would need those rafters to be spaced at 12 inches not 24. If your live load is 20# and your dead load is 10# then you rafters are good as you should be able to span 15 feet. This is however the minimum build plus this is just a basic number. Other factors can also affect your span such as ceiling attachment to the rafters. Most northern cities or states have there own rafter span charts with snow loads. I would start there. Good luck.

[@RickJone-kd5lr]

I would say just following the metal roofing panel manufacturing schedule. More screws at edges, peak due to wind loads.

[@racerx1250]

Insurance adjuster told me that lead nails got outlawed. A tree fell on the roof. Have a 47-year-old build that has galvanized roof with the lead nails. The roof did not leak and never had a problem with a a loose panel. The galvanized tin was made out of 28 gauge. I built this building when i was a kid and the nails were put in the top of the ridge. In addition, i have spare lead nails. I'm going back with lead nails. The nails are 2 inches long with the special designed head. The lead nails are far better than screws. Screws are brittle and can break. I have not researched why lead nails were outlawed. My grandfather was smart enough to buy extra galvanized sheets and nails when the building was built. This came in handy to make fast repairs to protect the inside of the building.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

From the age of the building it sounds like it was 5v metal roofing which is supposed to be nailed or screwed in on the ridge. modern metal roofing like what is in the video has ridges twice the height as the old 5v and is way less flexible. i never installed the nails with screws but i did install allot of nails with the rubber seal. they work fine. Lead is pretty much a no no in everything but i think the real reason was cost as the rubber washers are much cheaper and do the job.

[@heathhill7802]

Always screwed top of rib , know how to use , not loose and not to crush the rib , every rib 2 foot on the eve and after every 4 foot to peak . Have done at least a hundred from barns to small cottages 8/12 to 4/12 pitch. Not a single leak or loss of material do to 60-70 wind conditions. And have been on roofs that I installed 15 years ago to add dormers, the screws have not loosen and the rib shows no ware . Yes it will void warranty on some tin manufacturers but , most of that is a broken system. Insurance companies dont care about warranty on claims, the underwriter looks at the year ,cost age and performance of pre damaged materials. Just my experience, upstate newyork. Cant say how its works in Tennessee, California, Texas climate. Guess you just need to know what works in your area.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@heathhill7802 you will not see many roofs done that way in Tennessee as the manufacturer schedule is on the flats I have installed on 3/12 to 12/12 with no issues. I have done some sheds on less than 3/12 for myself where a leak would not be a big deal but it is below the manufacturer recommended pitch and still was leak free. Manufacturers may want the flats because installers may have more issues with crushing the rib. The screws work on the flats very well. No matter where you screw it metal roofs far out perform asphalt shingle and has always done so.. That's for commenting and watching

[@dog_guy-c8x]

My father inlaw was a builder and he did it as you do it heathhill. We put the metal roof on my house 45 years ago, have never seen movement as honeybee talks about. I have never had a roof leek. In that day and age at least here in Canada there were no instructions as to how to install the roof. My father inlaws beleif as well as mine was that there was less rain water to get in by nailing it on the peeks of the tin roofing. I am about to do my garage roof but am still going to screw it from the peak of the tin as I have never run into trouble and it worked then and am sure it will wok now.

[@sherwinstaudt1881]

Been doing metal roofing for 50 plus years, use R panel or u panel, always use mastic in between your sheets, very seldom used lap screws. If your metal building is square always pre-drill all your sheets, stack them together and drill them all at one time, this will eliminate the steel burrs from underneath the seal washer on the screw. Also with wood screws on wood decking or slats. Also on wood dip the end of the screw in glue it will help the screw from backing out over the period of the years, and yes the screw will back out and leak.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@sherwinstaudt1881 I did a couple of roofs with r panels heavy guage. I like the look allot. I don't like screwing on 7/16 OSB as I think it doesn't grip the screws well enough. I prefer 5/8 plywood or OSB. I also like that you don't need clips with the 5/8 as the clips will rub though the underlayment and start rubbing your panels. Thanks for commenting

[@sherwinstaudt1881]

@honeybeehomesteading I usually use 2x4 slats their cheaper than one by fours, and if I do solid deck I use 5/8 only OSB, too many voids in plywood. Never use clips in your plywood OSB, always lay out your first sheets and Raptors where they come out, never ever use staples always use ring shank nails, I use coil nailers nail ever 6 in.

[@sherwinstaudt1881]

@honeybeehomesteading also never use tar paper under your tin always use rosin paper, never use rubber gaskets or seal up the overhang leave them open so the tin will breathe.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@sherwinstaudt1881 I use the modern underlayment designed for metal. It is kinda like a tarp but has a tiny rubber grid to help keep the metal from rubbing through it and gives the installer some traction. It is expensive but works very well.

[@sherwinstaudt1881]

@honeybeehomesteading the underlayment on the deck it's not so much about moisture or rubbing on the tin most of it will corrode holes in the tin over the period of years.

[@victoryfirst2878]

Threaded cap screws are the way to go. I shim the tall rib with cedar wood for a tight seat. Never put metal over shingled roofs they do not seat flat well at all. Tar paper is cool for sure. The bitch with any fasteners is the voids in the plywood or chipboard. When the fastener just drops into the wood. YOU have to fix the hole you just made. The method chosen means a lot. My neighbor used bolts that get washers and nuts under the roof itself. THIS IS THE WAY TO GO. THE BEST FASTING METHOD. NAILS NOT SO MUCH.... The best way to make a metal roof. PEROD !!!!

[@PoorWays]

Thanks for the interesting info on the schedule! Funny how no seriously respected contractor in my area follows them. Might ask them about this next time I see one.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@PoorWays best to contact the metal supplier as they will have it. My first roof of this type had it in the literature. Prior to the painted roofing all I had done was nail through the rib 5v which was 30 years ago.

[@flat6fever680]

Gentlemen, What is the solution for a 30 year old modern style metal roof with the screws done on the flats that is now leaking? This is on my shop roof. I am thinking new screws just a tad longer than the old ones to ensure a good bite and of course they will have new rubber washers. Surely mine are dry rotted and shot. The roof is in good shape otherwise. Am I on the right track or does anyone have ideas? Thank you from PA

[@honeybeehomesteading]

Replace them with the latest screw which has a solid head and completely covers the washer. The shank is also a larger diameter so you will get the required bite through a old hole .these screws should last 50 years. i have a video that has them in it so you know what to look for. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oZ2qeHyBZ5qKo5Y

[@CarterQuillenP.E.]

Seems to make more sense to put the screws on the ridge where the water will run off them and not in the valley where there in a river every time it rains. I can see it might be structurally better in the valley but I'm going to continue putting them on the ridge, it's always worked for me. Some of the problems you mentioned might be regional issues and in some climates it probably doesn't matter either way.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

the size of your building is also a critical factor. Through the ribs will cause issues with long building where there are lots of panels in a row. not a big deal in smaller buildings

[@tomkelly8827]

Interesting to hear your thought process. I have never considered the steel to be structural. I screw on the ribs. They don't leak even on my reused tin that has ribs with no screws and I never got around to caulking on my woodshed. If it were on the flat that would not work. But you are right about everything you are saying here. The screws will hold tight, unlike the nails, and manufacturers do recommend what you are saying. expansion and contraction happens between each rib though, not on the whole roof when you screw through the ribs, because the screws are not tight to the wood like they are when you screw on the flat. It does work to screw through the ribs but I am feeling intrigued now about what you are saying here. I'd like to do a roof with more shorter screws like you are saying to see the difference first hand

[@honeybeehomesteading]

Use 1 1/2 inch screws on the flat as you need to get past the taper through the deck to achieve maximum holding strength. As far as expansion goes, through the rib may not cause issues if you roof gets sun evenly, tall trees or shade of any sort on only part of the roof can cause issues. My woodsheds are all build with no decking and screwed on the flat directly into rafters. It saves allot of time and money using the structural nature of the panels. Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@Don_P.717]

In the 90's I believe it was Harvey Manbeck at Penn State came up with "Diaphragm and frame interaction" models where they began using these wider ribbed ag panels, the skin of the building, to stiffen the frame. That is when the "pole barn" became engineered "post frame" ag buildings, often with greater spans and lighter members. Industrial and commercial users took note. In other words he figured out how to design the building as stiffer plates rather than as individual members. On a jobsite if someone demonstrates that they understand the manufacturers methods and then has a rational alternative I'm open to listen. Most of the time with things like screwing up on the ribs. Billy Bob told Bubba and we ain't doing things that way. Hmm, now I'm remembering that the first computer truss programs came out of Penn State as well, we're back in the 70's, something like the Penn State plane structures analyzer.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

I enjoyed your comment. In my early 20's i was on a job and the was a guy named Jr. It was a cabin and was before the age of pex. Jr was plumbing the cabin with cppvc the cream colored plastic. the owner wanted it used as it was easy to repair if it froze. Well Jr who probably never made it through high school decided to use pvc glue on cppvc. It will work he said. it did work for about six months then the whole system had to be redone right. Bubba Engineering at it finest. Thank you for commenting

[@robertbutler8004]

Here in Australia if you screwed through the flat the job would be condemned. I have seen several American roofing contractors change from the stupid idea of screwing through the flat to screwing through the ribs.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

coeffecient of thermal expansion of steel. It is the driving reason behind screwing on the flat. Some panels are designed to have them on the ribs but not the one in the video. here in the us screwing on the ribs can void your warranty

[@andysmith5012]

They were called lead headed nails and they were very sharp so you never needed to dent to metal to start the nail. The lead under the head of the nail was soft enough to mold over the peak. There are roofs V- crimp roofs over 100 years old in Florida that have never leaked. If you put a screw in the valley or flat it will leak eventually.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@andysmith5012 lead headed nails were used for 5v which only had ribs 1/2 inch tall. Nailing in the rib is still the proper way to install that metal roofing. The metal in the video is designed differently to overcome the effects of thermal expansion.

[@andysmith5012]

@@honeybeehomesteading I disagree. Water will find a way in the valley screws.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@andysmith5012 if the screws are installed right they will keep the water out I have roofs I did 20 years ago that remain leak free. If they are installed wrong they will leak. If you put them in the rib wrong they will probably not leak. I didn't make this screw schedule the manufacturer did.

[@samuelbonacorsi2048]

You are correct on all these points based on my experience. The manufactures instructions emphasize this method. What is your opinion on predrilling ?

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@samuelbonacorsi2048 pre drilling saves time and protects the metal from mishaps which might scratch the paint. Plus it gives a consistent pattern. I drill multiple panels at once so make sure you have the holes where you want. You have to drill half the roof panels one way and the second half will be oriented opposite of the first when dealing with a single gable. It is important not to drill more than a 1/8 hole as this will allow the screw to lift the edge of the metal where the hole is giving it further leak protection. Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@rencleavus5213]

I don't predrill, it takes too long. Plus, it's another cordless tool that I have to keep track of on a roof. Instead, I puncture the panel with a light tap on an 8d nail. That gives me just the right hole to start the screw.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

i always predrill on the ground, using a drywall square i can precisely measure where the screws go and as i drill about 20 panels at once it saves me time and i don't have to carry a hammer up on the roof. it takes me less than a hour to do all 20 panels. I used your exact method for years and still do on board sheeting.

[@junkerzn7312]

Hmm. The metal roof I just had put on extends a bit of area after the ridge that you screw a fastener onto that is able to slide along the vertical axis a little. So the panel itself is not directly screwed at all, just the fastener. The next panel then overlaps the previous one at the ridge and covers the extension and fastener completely so neither the fastener or the screws are exposed to the elements at all.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@junkerzn7312 it sounds like you are talking about standing seam. They look really great and have no exposed fasteners.

[@junkerzn7312]

@@honeybeehomesteading Yes, its definitely standing seam.

[@beachdweller3378]

Cool. My metal roof is installed just as you described. I just dont know if i need to go up and check screws from time to time. I do go around the edges and tighten screws down if needed, maybe a little silicone as well. Roof is about 14 years old.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@beachdweller3378 you really shouldn't have to check screws. That being said a screw is only as strong as the substraight. I always build my home roofs with 5/8 plywood or OSB. 7/16 I believe is too thin. Be careful about using silicon. Use only gutter and flashing silicone. Regular silicone has a acid to help it bond and it will destroy galvanized metal.

[@pseudopetrus]

Silicone cures with acetic acid and causes the steel to rust in the long run.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@pseudopetrus he is right do not use regular silicone as it will ruin a roof. The silicon for gutter and flashing is fine as it does not have the acid in it. I use it when I am flashing in chimney to go between the masonry and the metal. Another alternative is butyl but it is awful messy.

[@rogermosberger6856]

Another seldom mentioned problem with putting fasteners on top of the rib is metal "creep". This is caused by different torques being applied as you work your way horizontally across the roof. If you compress the top of the rib much at all, it will expand the edge ever so slightly beyond its natural point. On a roof with a really long fascia edge this can amount to several inches by the time the last piece is installed. Almost guarantees an interesting final cut.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@rogermosberger6856 creep can also happen on flat fasteners but I fould see how it coukd be a disaster with screw through the ribs. I always first complete row first before running across with one row in the middle and working with 2 rows not the remaining 4

[@lclements9263]

I bought a 52 year old cabin with 5V crimp metal roof. It was attached directly to the rafters on top of the 5Vs he used ring shanked lead, headed nails, and I could not find any sign of any leak

[@honeybeehomesteading]

you probably wont either as you roof was installed the right way with nails on top of the v s which is right for 5v.You may have to go back latter and replace some of the nails with screws especially on the bottom as those seem to give out the most

[@gooftroopg2623]

It must have something to do with the pitch of the roof or the region in correspondence with snow load..in the past I have installed stitch screws on the rib every 4 ft with beautyl tape to ensure that ice dams do not build up under the rib but never have I installed in the center of the flat

[@honeybeehomesteading]

screwing the center of the flat is not correct as you want to be next to the rib. It seems to me that that you are not using many screws if you are adding stitch screws every 4 ft on joints. the butyl tape is a good idea but i don't see why you are using stich screws instead of 2 inch screws if you are already going through the rib or are you going through the flat?

[@gooftroopg2623]

@honeybeehomesteading oh no we were going roughly an inch or so from the rib on 2 ft purlins with a stitch screw every 4 ft down the rib

[@honeybeehomesteading]

are you in a high wind area? I ask because i never use stich screws through the rib and none of my roofs have ever had a issue even in some 80 mph winds. If i was coastal area i think i would build a roof more like a air plane with rivets everywhere lol.

[@bruceb3786]

Screws put into the flats into wood below will positively leak from cyclic heating and cooling, and the resultant leak will rot the wood below. Guaranteed. Use longer screws into the ribs, tightened just enough to "take the slack out", while only slightly compressing the sealing washer. Built one this way in 2006......24' x 42' , slope 1/2 on 12. zero leaks 18 years later.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

Screws in flats don't move the way they do on the rib as the panels are able to move independently of one another. This eliminates the thermal expansion width wise leaving only the length of the panel to be a factor which is normally not long enough to be a factor. I have roofs 20 years old screwed in the flats with no leaks

[@bruceb3786]

@@honeybeehomesteading , are the screws you installed going into metal below, or into wood? If into wood, you are one of few who has had no leaks. On the other hand, if you live in AZ or NM, the point is moot. I stand by my point, if screwed into the peaks, there will be no leaks, if done correctly. You cannot tighten the screws to the point where they severely compress the rubber washer, or distort the shape of the sheetmetal peak. "Stitch screws" with butyl tape are used at all overlapping seams to seal them together. They are not left to just flap in a wind. The "stitch screws" do NOT go into the substrate below. They are used only to "stitch" the seam together. YOU ARE CORRECT that putting screws into the flats works, if the substrate is a metal purlin, as in real metal building construction. The correct number of screws, and placement of those screws, is REQUIRED to get a UL Class 90 Wind Rating on the roof installation, for insurance Company purposes. I was a superintendent on metal building construction for 5 years.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@bruceb3786 I am going into wood a minimum of 5/8 decking. Steel structures are different than wood as you don't have to worry about thermal expansion as you do when going through wood and screwing through the rib. In a all metal framed building going through the rib would be the only way I would install it. And yes I know how stitching screws work, it is all I ever use to install caps and allot of other trim. Thanks for commenting

[@bruceb3786]

@@honeybeehomesteading , I just know what I have seen work, and not work so well.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@bruceb3786 same here the key problem with all roof installations is getting workers that actually care. When screwing in the flats it is common to overtighten and then back out instead of replacing the screw entirely. I can't count the number of roofs I have seen that was done wrong. I replaced a brand new roof once because the installer had no idea how to screw the roof in or flash the chimney. There were leaks all over the place. Thanks for all your comments and have a merry Christmas

[@waynec369]

I have pulled corrugated metal off chicken houses which had been nailed thru the rib and re-used it on barns and sheds WITHOUT sealing the holes, but nailing through the rib. The ONLY leaks occurred when the rain drop directly hit the old nail hole. Fastening thru the rib is the ONLY way it should be done, and when the rubber rots away from the screws in ten years, you won't have to worry about it leaking.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@waynec369 I am sure the metal you pulled from those chicken houses was 5v. It was designed to be nailed through the v. The metal in the video was not. Those washers last much longer than 10 years when properly installed 30 to 50 years depending on the screw head. The latter from a all one piece design that completely leaves not exposed seal. Screwing through the roof on this pattern of roof on long structures will cause issues down the road due to thermal expansion and contraction.

[@challenger-rta3761]

This is real simple. There is what is correct and what works.

[@jimcollins3411]

I'm retired now but I remember the supplier of metal some times say though the ridge others would say the flat area . We always did what ever they said but I liked though the flat area better . That was with screws I have never used nails but I have removed old roofing that used nails with lead . My old barn has it that way and it was probably built in the late 40s or early 50s . They are constantly coming loose so when I repair I replace with screws .

[@deanyanko3326]

anyone know where to get the old fiberglass ridge panels ?

[@honeybeehomesteading]

not cheap holy cow! www.dkhardware.com/crane-composites-inc-c25sf338-xcp10-26-in-x-8-ft-super-600-heavy-duty-green-fiberglass-panel-pack-of-10-product-6533857.html?nbt=nb%3Aadwords%3Ax%3A21033682227%3A%3A&nb_adtype=pla&nb_kwd=&nb_ti=&nb_mi=2663876&nb_pc=online&nb_pi=6533857&nb_ppi=&nb_placement=&nb_li_ms=&nb_lp_ms=&nb_fii=&nb_ap=&nb_mt=&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA9bq6BhAKEiwAH6bqoH5Pocqed3AcEn6s9Hib5hapoxXm4sHaHnu7Rmn48EKwuUpuyPMxoBoCvHIQAvD_BwE

[@springhollerfarm8668]

screws on the flats will leak, eventually. Screws on the ribs will not significantly leak as they are on a high spot. My metal manufacturer says you can do it either way but around here (Ozarks) everybody knows screws need replaced every so often or the whole roof needs waterproofed eventually.( there are several companies around here who do it because screws on the flat eventually will leak.) It just takes more time & finesse to place them on the ribs and not overtighten and most contractors are either too impatient, too cheap, or do not properly train to put them on the rib where leaks won't happen.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

I dont know it seems harder to screw in the flat properly. if you overtighten then the screw is ruined but most installers just back them off. I have original screws design roofs that are 20 years old and leak free. the new one piece screw are supposed to last something crazy like 50 years but it has been a minute so dont hold me to it. replacing screws in 20 years is ok with me as i figure it will be time for new paint as well but honestly standing seam is the way to go if you really want maintenance free

[@ltgood]

In my country that roof iron is called trapezoid profile. It is specified as it used on flat roofs, 2 to 5 degrees. The last place I’d use to fix is the flat. Everything moves with temperature change. Who will argue that the flat point is better than the rib? If water finds a way through, all of his friends will follow. Water runs down the flat having been joined by droplets immediately ejected from the ribs.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@ltgood the manufacturer of the metal would argue different. I agree that using the rib will give you less chance of leaks but water is not the only enemy. Wind and thermal expansion are big problems as well. If you have a long structure attaching through the ribs can mean allot of motion as you are connecting every panel with the next.

[@ltgood]

@ thinking on that now I agree there would be much more movement on a rib fastened roof.

[@congerthomas1812]

Finally a logical breakdown!

[@robertabbott8541]

Confusing. What do you do with the next course of panels? Do you have to screw the bottom of the panel? On overlap does the top panel have to be screwed to the bottom panel?

[@honeybeehomesteading]

no watch the video again for this demo i was laying down metal from left to right. the next course overlaps the bottom( the edge with the 1/4" flat is the bottom and the side without is the top. the top piece gets a screw by the first rib and the second rib in the same flat. Then it is a single screw next to the rib in the flat for the other 3 ribs. the top panel is not screwed directly to the bottom as this allows for expansion. As people will testify that you can screw the tops of the ribs it is not what the manufacturer says to do.

[@TonySchneider-j1u]

Did my house twenty six years. Wanted best paint they made no tar paper just solid inch board. Used rubber on screws in the ribs. Put three rows on the ribs along bottom. For I live on my farm. Wind is the enemy I check twice a year and look for any loose screws. Still looks great not one loose screw. Most homes are getting steel even in towns they even take hail. Sun comes out dents pop out

[@honeybeehomesteading]

Steel is by far the best roof. thanks for commenting

[@patriciareynolds2729]

ED, i have put the screws in both places, the windstorm can make the roof leak. i know a man that put liquid nails under the heads, the wind ruint the roof and they had to clip, cut the heads off to put new roof on. i dont remember if screws were in flats or ribs. another item is that if the washers rot, they may leak more on the flats. get the standing seam commercial roof for the best roof, no screws visible. it is more costly and i see it on schools, banks, etc.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@patriciareynolds2729 you are right about standing seam. They look great and have no exposed fasteners. They have 2 downsides. They are more expensive and 2 they are much harder to repair. They will last 80 years or longer.

[@DouglasPunt]

👍 I've had people give me a lot of grief about using the flats. Some manufacturer's will void their warrantee if you use the rib. Follow their installation instructions.

[@kerriwilson7732]

And what does the manufacturer warrant? Paint fade? By the time a metal roof rusts through the installer is dead.

[@dtl6620]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/r6ibk5R6nq5reM0

[@anthonyland400c]

Screw in the flats if using perlins for strength, no roof last forever so if you replace the screws like recommended you will be fine they still last longer than cheep asphalt shingles so if your screws leak get off your ass and replace them

[@ascotty9796]

Screws go on the flat like the video says. Check with your manufacturer if you're not sure. Don't over or under compress the washer. You should get 20+ years from the neoprene washers. Also the metal manufacturers recommend 3:12 minimum pitch here which should shed water swiftly. Also the ribs are for thermal expansion. Corregated roofing is different, you can screw the peaks when using the ribbed backer panels

[@robertschumacher472]

First of all I would like to say a great of a video and response from the creator. I would also like to thank and say how much I love the responses of everybody Pro and con. This is absolutely so important on this subject and any others that we have the ability to hear everybody and try to search out the best truth for ourselves. What would life be if we didn't have any choice to Excel and learn from using our mind and actual trial to gain experience and wisdom. I for one have believed and still do believe that the peak on the sheet is the best way to go. And that is because of the water not getting in. That being said I can see the validity of thinking that if the whole sheet of roof is held together it could create a stronger structure. But we must not also be pulled into the weed so to speak by something that may be true but is not an overriding consideration for the customer. For me as a customer I want to provide protection for the items in the structure and for the structure itself. While the sheets May blow off if the water gets inside and ruins expensive equipment or things then that will be an overriding consideration. We had a hundred year old barn and something I noted was that there was an incredible amount of are getting in and out of the building to help with over moisture situations. Later on I noted from my cousin and really large buildings that a steel roof needed to have some form of insulation between it and the inside. That was to keep the roof from sweating or dropping water vapor down on everything because of in and out of air and cooling to bring out the moisture in the air. Well that problem then created a problem where moisture would get between the insulation and the roof and stay in there and I believe that could lead to resting off of your screws or nails and or sheets. If you do not have that kind of climate maybe that is an issue that you don't have to put the insulation in for and not have a problem like that. I think this issue is extremely variable and specific for everyone's situation. I know a lot of these companies that put on roofs are also looking for a quick install and that goes into the price and because we are being squeezed so hard by wasteful government we are always looking for the cheapest thing and that means the fastest put up thing too. Consider that if you pre-drill the sheets in a stack how much labor you cut out to install your screws or Nails wherever .... for me I like the idea of the sheets to be able to move back and forth a little bit on that spring action of the peak.. again your screw is being acted upon with more leverage than a screw on the flat and of course a screw on the flat can be shorter and cheaper. So there goes again something that completely changes the equation that is what can we afford. To me the overriding thing is trying to keep the moisture out. I like the idea of a rosin paper or asphalt kind of underlayment to help keep the water out and maybe that could be the best of both but again it costs more money .. what a good conversation by a bunch of good people both throwing Khan thank you all

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@robertschumacher472 thanks for you lengthy comment. I am sure everyone appreciates it. When I was a contractor I specialized in restoring Victorian homes circa 1880. Roof pitch was 12/12. Standard practice was to use tar paper underlayment. This helped with the moisture as well as providing a little lubrication for the movement of the metal. There would always be holes where the metal would rub through the underlayment. Today most use synthetic underlayment. They make a special one just for metal. It has the tarp like base plus a rubber matrix on top to prevent the metal from rubbing through. While it is ok to try to save money my advice would not be on the roof. Buy as many screws as the job needs including stitching screws use 1 1/2 screws for flats and if you want to do ribs 2" screws as the screw has to go completely through the substructure to achieve maximum holding power. If you are doing it yourself then you are already saving a ton of money. Your goal should be to build the longest lasting roof not the cheapest one so also use the better underlayment. Thanks again for commenting.

[@robertschumacher472]

@honeybeehomesteading thank you so much for your kind and informative reply. I had the bad luck to be injured by a ball and turned out a quadriplegic. That has left me a little to do with hands and body. I do have a question from your knowledge please. My fiance and I live on a piece of property that has a pole barn and on one part of it there is leakage on the inside but only on the hardest blowing highest amount of water thunderstorms. I had somebody up here the other day to look and was happy that the roof add screws on the peaks. He looked and believed that the screws rubber washers were still good. There is no apparent damage especially where the sheets should be leaking. He has a roofing contractor and is not sure what is causing it. He thanks it could be the sheets blowing up at the ribs in that area and getting under but he is not sure. I don't like this particular style because the roof does not overhang. Is it possible the water could be running down the roof and being blown under but then wouldn't be everywhere? Any ideas?I will be looking at getting the new kind of mushroom crown screws which are supposed to be a lifetime option for the rubber seal underneath instead of the standard flat ones. I guess the last question would be how can you tell if the washers are leaking short of pressing the sheet metal down and peering intently on the washer or removing the screw? It was a wet day so I didn't want him getting hurt but would be interested in your thoughts. Thank you so much for your reply and info.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@robertschumacher472 ok I am going to try my best. Many things to consider here wind being the main problem. I am going to assume you are talking about 5 v roofing or is it the style in the video? Also is the roof on solid decking or purlins. If it is on purlins it could be condensation but let's assume it's not. The easiest repair may be this. We don't know it the screws are damaged but I have never known water to be able to travel past the ribs where the panels connect with either style so let's assume you have some badly installed screws. You can have your roofer caulk over them and any other potential leaks areas with clear silicon for gutter and flashing. You can't use regular silicone as it has a acid to help with bonding that destroys metal roofs. The gutter and flashing does not have ithe acid and is safe for metal. Alternatively you could go ahead and have the roofer replace the screws with the single body which have a larger screw shank so they will grip well through a old hole. I have a video on screws you can watch if you need. I hope I was of some help.

[@MS-ig7ku]

The reason for fastening on the rib is to reduce leaks, the gaskets will fail after a short time, it doesn't matter that much on rib. It will leak on the flat I found out the hard way.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@MS-ig7ku while it is more leak resistant on the rib, a properly installed screw on the flat will not leak. The screw has to be square and not over or under tightened. I have building with 20 years on them and no leaks.

[@vincebotkin1960]

You need to put mastic on the lap to water proof it. Top and bottom of the panels get a six pack of screws and the intermediate get a screw on each leading edge of the flat. Stitch screws go every two foot.

[@williepelzer384]

I put my shop tin on in 1977 ,ring shank nails ,top of ribs still doesn't leek, tar paper under neath,live in Oregon 40 miles from the ocean, yes it rains alot.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@williepelzer384 I bet that was 5 v roofing. Back in 1977 that was the way to do it as roofing screws weren't even a thing. I did several roofs that way and when the new screws and panels came out I was surprised by the manufacturers screw schedule. I have also removed many a roofing nail with ease by just pulling on the tin. Something that you can't do with screws. Thanks for commenting.

[@kevinbuda7087]

imagine a place where the winter is - 40 and the summer 98 f. those screws unscrew with the temp change. btw...my valleys are pushed right in to each other with no 3 inch plus valley reveal. and I just smash those washers in to the metal. the ice dams can be massive. manual removal of snow is the only remedy. airflow problem. but -20 doesnt give the problem.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

there is actually a glue on those washers which is supposed to help prevent them from unscrewing. with such a extreme climate it seems like you have quite the challange. if it was my roof and i was having to replace the roof i would be tempted to install heat strip or have some way to heat my roof to drop the snow. I have a freind that has a heated driveway.....and we almost never get snow.lol. Stay warm this winter i hope you have a wood stove.

[@theferallife8812]

Nails have significantly higher shear strength than screws; meaning nails are better at resisting side-to-side forces, while screws are more prone to snapping under lateral pressure due to their design, making them better suited for pulling forces. Nail the raised ribs or screw the flats.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

Agreed nails seem to resist shear better but they seem to loosen by widening the hole.

[@ChookHendo]

Dark colors will always eventually leak when screwed into the pans as the holes elongate with thermal cycling.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@ChookHendo thermal cycling is the reason why you should screw it into the flats. You will have about 1/32!of a inch of daily movement on a 24 ft long panel. If your roof is 75 ft long then you will have three times the amount of movement on the screws if you screw it on the rib. The panel overlaps eliminate side expansion

[@ChookHendo]

@@honeybeehomesteading Lysaght the manufacturer and Bluescope steel the distributor here in Australia all describe that all fasteners go into the crest for the roof and pan for the walls to eliminate leakage on custom orb and trimdek products.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@ChookHendo always follow the manufacturer recommendations. I don't know the specifics of your panels but panels can be engineered differently to offset thermal expansion.

[@randallthomas5207]

I just double checked my metal provider’s site for nailing schedules: They are showing long screws adjacent to the ribs, approximately 1/2-inch away, and 5/8-inch long stitching screws to secure the tops of the ribs together at the seam. And the spacing between the rows of screws is dependent on the maximum wind speed. Always use get the manufacturers installation instruction sheets, and follow their pattern. The only exception is if you are working from a set of plans and specifications, which are sealed by a design professional. Then follow their instructions.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

That sounds right. Sticking screws on the ribs besides the cap I have only seen scheduled for high wind areas. As always go by the manufacture's recommendations. Spacing between the rows of screws is also dependent on the intended weight load when working with purlins.

[@pauledwards7182]

Morton Blds.(wood construction) 1. 1"L, 2"L nut-driver screw w/drill-bit tip(5/16", 8mm socket). 2. 1"L, 2"L screw w/drill-bit tip(T-25 England-Riser(steel construction) 1. 1"L, 2"L 5/16" 3/8" nut-drivers They pre-drilled the holes. 1. 1974- 40'Wx140'Lx14'H,4/12 RP 2.1984- 60'Wx120'Lx16'H,2/12 RP 20mi East of KCMO, they have never lost a sheet, never had to replace a sheet. A fastener goes on the highest point of the sheet, that's a ridge. Old galvanize-tin/ corrugated-tin was nailed or screwed through the rib w/ rubber washer.

[@stephanc7192]

Add strength to the whole building! Interesting

[@normcameron2316]

This is a hot, touchy topic. I like your comment of the roofing adding structural strength, if your structure needs that, then do what the manufacturer says. My experience, and it's not anywhere as lengthy as yours I admit, has shown me that living on the wet west coast of Canada where it rains 10 months of the year except when it's snowing it's better to put screws in the ribs. Screws on the flat near the peak and under the peak flashing are fine, screws near the bottom over a well ventilated eave where things can dry out are ok, especially if it's open and you can see any leakage. Just my experience, not Gospel.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@normcameron2316 thanks for your comment. I would agree with you as long as your roof is not too long meaning the number of panels wide not the length of the panels. Without some way to relieve the stress due to expansion and contraction of the sheets. I think anything more than 15 to 20 panels may be a issue . The latest on piece screws are really good as well since they completely seal the washer underneath. I wish I had used those on my house.

[@normcameron2316]

@@honeybeehomesteading Most of my experience has been on buildings less than 60 feet in length and some longer. We have a "moderate" climate here, generally don't have long smoking hot summers and maybe that is a difference. A long time ago my Boss told me "When in Rome..."

[@w.knudsen5570]

What are the possible issues of screwing in the side of the rib? I did my shed and chicken coop that way.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@w.knudsen5570 well for one you are pulling the metal to the side as well as down would be the biggest issue. 2 you are exposing the rubber washers to sunlight on the top edge which would degrade them much faster. 3 you are negating half of the holding power of the screw so a really bad wind storm may pull off the roof. If you want to go through the rib do it on the top not the side. You loose your structured element of the panel but like many have commented here it won't leak.

[@Ricardofromage]

Always through the elevated rib, never pierce where the water runs, thats nust commin sense and good work practice 👍

[@WhatDadIsUpTo]

Time for you to get some continuing education on installing metal roofing / siding. "LAP" screws have a shallower thread & thicker shank and are designed to lock panel mid runs to adjoining panels. They have a self-tapping driller point and rubber washer and are designed exclusively to join panel overlaps at main ribs.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

What you call a lap screw we refer to as a stitching screw. I am well educated on the subject thank you. Here is a video of some of the different metal roofing screws i made over a year ago. it includes a screw that many have not seen that has a solid one piece head. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oZ2qeHyBZ5qKo5Y

[@williamharkenrider3842]

Well said thank you

[@dtl6620]

Well the "guy" is a rep from Midwest Manufacturing. They sell a whole lot of metal roofing through Menard's stores and I don't think they would put out an instructional video telling you to do it the wrong way. He said you can put the screws on the flats or the ribs. If you listen carefully he says there are benefits to each method.I will take his word over some "guy" from U Tube. My original garage ,with the screws on the ribs, was done in 2004 and went through a near miss with one tornado that I know of. I was just up there putting the roof on the addition I added last year so I saw it up close and personal. We also have lots of snow up there and bitter cold in Northern Wisconsin. So 20 years and no problems.Looks like new. Before I put the roof on I looked at the siding and the roofing at the Menard's store. They have the same Forest Green metal panels on all of their stores! They probably have over 200 store locations. Guess were they put the screws? Yup on the ribs!! Look for yourself if you have a Menard's store near you. I don't think they would put up millions of dollars of commercial buildings improperly. In closing I guess there is really only one thing to say. You are 100% right. There is always only one way to do anything......your way! :)

[@honeybeehomesteading]

I am just some guy who is telling you what the manufacturers screw schedule was nothing more.

[@dtl6620]

@@honeybeehomesteading Absolutely....I am in full agreement with you...... There is really only one thing to say. You are 100% right. There is always only one way to do anything......that would be your way! :)

[@joe-hp4nk]

My house was built in the 20s and I needed to replace the roofing so I decided to go with metal roofing. Lo and behold I had three layers to take off, two shingles and the original wood shingles. Underneath that is 1" boards. Some were rotten and had to be replaced. I put the metal roofing right over the board and screwed it on the flat. I didn't put down a underlay. Do you think I should have? thanks.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

Sorry this reply is a little late as your comment didn't pop up to me for some reason. I have worked on houses older than yours. sweating from condensation is your main concern. Old buildings with board sheeting may produce a little condensate but the wood should absorb it and the gaps between the board will provide enough ventilation for the wood to dry out. While underlayment is preferable i would not worry if you didn't as i have seen many roofs that did not have it. thanks for commenting and sorry for the late response

[@jefferysill5539]

Mastic down lap stitch screws , 2 screws per flat at bottom

[@TheGeek365]

Lol, I also have shrinkage on really cold days 🥶

[@keepcalmandenjoythedecline]

The valleys are where the water runs, NEVER make holes there. The ribs are the stiffest part, they will NEVER be the place where thermal expansion bends the sheet. Thermal expansion makes the sheet try to separate from the beams, it will ALWAYS put stress on the screws.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@keepcalmandenjoythedecline you are correct about the stiffness of the ribs. If your roof has lots of sheets expansions will stress the screws and the holes.if it is done on the rib. Screwing in the valley allows the metal to move at the overlap reducing the the stress on the screws by limiting it to the length of the panel vs the width of the whole building.

[@williamturner1030]

When you screw through the top of the rib it voids the warranty

[@honeybeehomesteading]

Amen

[@dtl6620]

Yes I put a course of screws on the flats up about 3"-4" from the bottom edge. And then with the installation of the top cap that adds extra screws to the top edge. Also the end cap trim is screwed on the flat so the whole perimeter screw schedule is enhanced to further stop it from 'pealing ' off. If you are worried about the screws coming loose ,which you mention could very well happen, and your screws are on the flats your roof would leak like a sieve! Just another reason to put them on the ribs! kzbin.info/www/bejne/r6ibk5R6nq5reM0 Midwest Manufacturing installation video showing installation on the ribs. I found it easier to predrill and that also made it very easy to tighten the screws without causing any distortion possibly leading to the "out of square" situation developing. It was very easy to see that they were tightened properly.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@dtl6620 I watched the video. The guy doesn't give me allot of faith that he knows what he is talking about. He put the screw right beside the rib which is never done as it will trap debris and create dams. He also recommended you back out a screw that has been over tightened. That is also wrong. Once you overtighten a screw the metal plate becomes a funnel. If you overtighten on the flat you have to use a new screw to fix it. As far as screws coming loose it is a possibility but I have never experienced it in over 20 years on the flat. On the rib they are not as tight and there is allot more movement.

[@duanekabanuk3974]

Putting the screws in the valley is fine, except you have to screw the ridge on the overlap. I'm not a contractor, but a claims adjuster. On a building with a 20 foot sidewall the wind will tear those roof panels. Rips them like paper.

[@dennisgarber]

You have to screw into the ribs for snow bars. I would at least caulk under, if doing it again. I chose snow bars, since the shoes screwed into the flat are known to cause leaks, being on the flat and if they break off, I read.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@dennisgarber snow bars I have seen before but it is rare that they are used in East TN. I always thought it might be better to have some type ove overrib where the snow could slide off without talking out the gutters. I know people who have lots of snow the weight becomes a issue for the roof itself. Thanks for commenting

[@dennisgarber]

@honeybeehomesteading without the snow bar, the snow sheered off my garage gutters. Ohio. On the house, I also extended the metal as far as I could, into the gutters, to take a little snow weight off the gutters. I have steep and not so steep roof parts.

[@dennisgarber]

The snow gaurd shoes look nicer. But I choose the cheaper rail, because I read they fail and leak less.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@dennisgarber I think in my next life I would design a house with large overhangs and a French drain system so I could go without gutters entirely. They are such a hassle

[@dennisgarber]

@honeybeehomesteading I have seen and noted that houses with double long overhangs hold paint up to 30 years with good surface preparation because of the extra shade. Probably 2x longer than single wide eaves.

[@MrOldclunker]

Putting a screw down the center of the panel between ribs is perfectly fine. I have never seen a problem with that method.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@MrOldclunker screws need to go next to the rib. Placing them in the center of the flat can allow air in the event of a windstorm to get under the panel and rip it off. Also placing them in the center reduces the number of screws holding the panel down by 20 percent as it uses only 4 screws instead of 5.

[@royburgerbreath]

You need to silicone the screwheads on metal roof , I just re did a whole interior of living room that had to be gutted because of screws backing out by themselves on a metal roof. The silicone appears to absorb the expansion and contraction energy and stops them from backing out. Just dont look good if you take a hard look at the silicone wod . The screws backing out and the UV destruction of gasket material are the biggest enemy of a metal roof.. Silicone appears to resolve and holds up over time from what Ive seen

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@royburgerbreath a much easier solution is to use the new one piece head screws. The head and the washer are one piece with a recess for the seal which is completely covered. The screw is also a larger diameter further preventing blackout while increasing holding power. If you use silicon make sure it says it is for gutter and flashing. Regular silicone contains a acid to help it bond and will damage metal roofs.

[@royburgerbreath]

@@honeybeehomesteading The regular silicone is vVinegar (acetic acid) What kind of damage have you seen from this?

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@royburgerbreath I have seen it ruin the galvanized roofing. It ate Right through the zinc and rusted badly in only about a year. I got to replace a whole roof because the brother of the owner patched the roof and used regular silicone. . So any unpainted bare metal would be a issue like the screw holes themselves. I have not seen any damage on painted because I have never used regular silicone always the gutter and flashing silicone instead.

[@royburgerbreath]

@@honeybeehomesteading Good to know. In this case it was a painted metal roof that I used the regular silicone (that smell is VINEGAR too!) We need to make aluminum great again so We dont have these issues with METAL ROOFS.. DID you know aluminum is the 3rd most abundant element on Earth and WHY in the USA aluminum roof panels so hard to come by?? They shut off most the smelters because of 'global warming' while China turned on their aluminum smelters // Aluminum is an amazing material for roofs and does not react like the way your issue did with regular silicone

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@royburgerbreath I live close to Alcoa allot of aluminum is still smelted here. The problem with aluminum it takes a thicker sheet to achieve the same strength and 2 it has a much larger rate of thermal expansion .0000128 vs .0000072 it would be nice though as you could have a anodized panel that would look cool. He other problem is that aluminum is a reactive metal which will react with steel so you would need to address that issue.

[@KevinMaxwell-o3t]

The problem is, some manufacturers still suggest screwing down through the ribs. Most recommend screwing down on the flats. Some pros I know screw down through the ribs. Most don't. I have put up a lot of roofing, and I have come to dislike exposed fastener roofing. My wife I have decided to replace our entire metal roof with a standing seam roof, as the screws need retightening from time to time and the purlins start to rot over many years. Yes, its will be expensive, but I should have spent the money in the first place.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@KevinMaxwell-o3t I love standing seam as they just look better but are not as easy to install. Have you seen the newer screws that completely cover the washers and can't be over tightened. They are guaranteed for 50 years. It might be a cost effective compromise just fyi. If you haven't seen the screws I did do a video on the different types of screws and it has them in it. Thanks for commenting

[@clarencecarter960]

The reason they recommended screwing on the flat versus ridge, was that it looked more asthetic because the screw wasn't noticeable when looking at the rows of screws from the side across the roof or wall! Look at the two and you will see especially if the ridge screws are not in an exact line?!

[@honeybeehomesteading]

@@clarencecarter960 I don't think aesthetics has anything to do with why manufacturers want you to put it on the flat. When you are screwing through the ribs you are making one long piece of metal. Expansion and contraction can be a issue on long roofs. Plus wind resistance is far greater on the flats vs the ridges.

[@clarencecarter960]

@honeybeehomesteading I am telling you, this is how it started! Then they justified it with your explanation???. Funny ridge/ribbed metal roofing had been nailed on top of the ridge since it was invented?. I grew up with a man who owns a metal roofing manufacturing company. He should know he was in on it????!

[@honeybeehomesteading]

There are some roof types that are engineered to have it screwed through the ribs. this panel is not one of them. what you are saying makes no sense, You knew a guy that was in on putting screws on the flat that it less water resistant i am not denying that.. What would be the manufacturing company motivation in doing so? . You cannot get away from the coefficient of expansion. It is a problem for metal roofs. Screwing on the flats minimizes that problem.

[@clarencecarter960]

@@honeybeehomesteading The motivation is to sell more sheets of metal roofing. Aesthetics, if it looks crappy it will not sell as well. People(80%) are only concerned about how it looks on their building. You are like me, thinking too practical?. These companies are in business to sell and make money! Period! My friend says he looked at hundreds of pictures of screws installed both ways, from every angle. New color, he looked at hundreds of pictures on many types of buildings. They don't worry about the warranty. They will out last almost all of them. Just try to file a claim and find out?! Do you raise queens?

[@honeybeehomesteading]

yes I raise queens

[@CanadianSpiderMan]

Rule number one: Don't put holes where the water flows. I've been installing metal on both coasts for over 35 years and have never had any leaks when putting screws on the ribs as long as you don't overtighten.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

The same goes for screwing in the flat don't overtighten and it will not leak

[@abrogard]

seems important the sort of sheet they use in the usa. and the sort of roof construction. they make a big thing of the sheet becoming 'constructional'. I suppose the mean that you're tying the roof together with the sheet. if it's such a big thing to them I guess they need it: their method of construction is such that it needs 'tying together'. In NZ and Aus ours don't. They're rigid enough. And the metal is (or at least used to be ) to handle screwing or nailing through peaks.

[@honeybeehomesteading]

the problem is expansion and contraction over long roofs. Through the peak may work fine on smaller roofs but if your structure is 75 ft long you will have issues down the road as a 75ft long piece of steel will really move. you need the expansions joints to be able to do their job.

[@abrogard142]

@@honeybeehomesteading Yep, okay. I can't pronounce on it. Not in the business. No expert. Just observing that it seems to be there's differences between USA and other places that account for the apparent conflict in anecdotes of which way works best. I only ever put up one shed, 10m x 5m and it was corrugate, through the peaks and I had to predrill every hole because i couldn't get the tekscrews to punch through in one hit the way professionals do. And the thickness of the material was borderline by which I mean any thinner and walking on it would crush the peaks. I had to be careful where I trod. Real bummer for a diy man. Not a pleasant thing at all. My first all metal construction of that type and I ran into the 'tolerances' problem someone mentions in your comments: you have to place each sheet exactly where it is supposed to go or you get to the end of the run and you're overhanging or, worse, short. It would have been so much more pleasant if the roof was 'safe' to walk on, wouldn't crush, and if the tek screws would drive straight in and if sheet locating was somehow more assured.