Valve Cover 9Nm, injectors 8Nm + 270°degrees Valve cover bolts tightening sequence: 4 1 7 from exhaust mnfld 6 2 3 5 from intake manifold side

Hi. In this case a lot of oil consumption and power loss. Oil was dripping out of the turbo

Sometimes heating and some penetrating oil wd40 helps (maybe even ATF ) and also extractors, most of time I need to do my own extractors if I want to save the injector.

N.p.

Hi. Do you do this steps that is in the video on 2:02 and 2:59 ?if yes then you should be able to take the manifold off.Regards

danke schön

Yep original ones are more like stiff rather then soft, so you can feel some resistance while installing injectors. So the problem may be in: 1)quality of the seals. 2)high crankcase pressure (mostly because failing injectors copper washers, clogged PCV valve, bad pistons rings, failing turbo). 3)Too high level of the engine oil. So i think you replaced injectors copper washers? so we can eliminate that option of failure. Sometimes When can't trust the quality of sealing or gasket i just use some good sealant, but as you can see in the comments some people are against that. And I got a call from a man who replaced the gasket, o-ring, etc. on his 2017 seat alhambra and still has the same leak from the same places and he told me maybe he should have used some sealant and I said hmm ... maybe

@@HintSlice yeah I have been told before to use a sealant haha! Any particular brand ?I’m in the uk. & I have swapped out my pcv for an oil catch can, seems to be working fine. 2 things I’m thinking is the piston rings causing positive pressure or the gaskets..but like i said I fitted some that came with the new rocker cover and they wasn’t vw original lol

@@karlossmith3714 I'm usualy using Victor Reinz VR 70-31414-10 if I want to be sure that everything will be ok and also it dries faster then other sealants. And onother one is Elring EL 006.553 I have no problem with this one also, but it dries up a littel bit longer wich maybe gives you more time to ajust details. Sometimes I use copper Permatex for the cylinder head gasket etc. I think that is more like rocker cover leak rather than something is wrong with the piston rings. Any way whatever sealant You gona use, just remember degreasing surfaces is crucial moment in this job everything must be 100% clean! you can use some brake cleaner or carburator cleaner but carb cleaner is more agresive to ruber parts so be care full.

@@HintSlice okay. Something I have got is a rocker cover off an Audi a4 avant 2,0. It looks the same as mine without the long spout for the oil filler cap. The injector gaskets look the same but I know the injectors on the Audi are bigger. Does bigger mean as in thicker or is it just the nozzle that squirts the fuel is bigger?

Thank You

I get this from auto parts store

Hi. Do you install new injectors? Because i was reading about this fault and the reason was in one of the injector it was draining to much fuel in to te return line insted of supply and this fault apears like in your case when accelerating.

@@HintSlice hi fitted one brand new injector and 3 used injectors from a low mileage 13 plate 520. I took the car for another run this evening and hammered it up through the revs and it was absolutely fine so i’m hoping it was just a glitch🤞

@@glenspence6016 ok then, good luck on the road✊️

I'm glad if that helped you to do the work✌️

I'm glad that it helped You to do the Job.✌️

Thank You. Its from scribd and technicalsite

De nada;)

Glad I could help and good luck in your repair.

Yep.

Hi. No there is no need to loosen injectors nuts if You are using vcsd .

I don’t remember exactly, but maybe it was a plastic brush with plastic bristles

It's 2017

Ок. kzbin.info/www/bejne/p6vCoYeFg79mebcsi=8En-jbeTGHBYdt51

Yes it can be the reason.

@@HintSlice I have a Kia optima 2012 1.7 CRDI leaking oil some place under the air Intake Manifold apparently the head gasket but only in high pressure, when its parked no oil under; maybe it needs to be replaced, the 2nd problem is oil escaping from the rocker cover with the gas going back to Turbo (air intake) and it looks like it go to intercooler and back to intake manfold again, no one can figure out where the issue comes from, any help will be much appreciated.

@tawilleennis mostly this leak could be only from valve cover. But it also can be from intake manifold because it made from plastic and have a rubber sealing gasket, and don’t forget about the EGR that supplies hot air straight to the intake manifold, which can cause its deformation. And don't think that this leak is from the head gasket.

@HintSlice sorry what valve cover? There is a lot of oil around head gasket but no oil in water cooler, my issue is losing about 1l for every 1000km, also the pipe coming from the rocker cover back to turbo trough some oil with air I don't know if that's normal

Do you have also a power loss. If yes then you need to Check turbo impeller shaft play maybe your turbo is failing.

1)Year 2007. 2)Because sometimes i follow the workshop manual and by loosen cam bolts you get right tension on the timing belt and synchronization between camshaft and crankshaft

Ok. Big o-ring OPEL 650472 97189134 General Motors. Small rings 06 50 473

It have over 400000 km. I think the main reason for this problem is High temperature inside of the manifold because of the EGR system. How to avoid this maybe by deleting EGR... but its complicated.

Hi. Yes this engine separates injectors from space under the valve cover. If gases escape from under copper o-ring they go straight to the outside so you will hear it. Most likely you need to check for the carbon buildup inside of the intake manifold. Not long ago i was cleaning intake manifold from the carbon buildup on this engine, it was not much carbon inside, like on tge VAG cars:), but it was there. maybe this is the reason

@@HintSlice EGR Valve shuted off and cutted out 80k km ago, so, no intake problems.... probably, my pistons are toasted (((( No oil leaks, engine doesn't consume oil at all, only gases and a spoon of oil on turbine-intercooler manifold (((( Thanks for the answer

@venomarVe No problem

Yes

@@HintSlice then it is 8nm + 270 deg turn

@michakotasiak9637 thanks

Yes

I'm glad that it help you. I have some material on this engine but it takes time to make a video in this style. and not always i want to make it

kzbin.info/www/bejne/hGatq3ejaK-FqqM

Thanks. That is the goal of my videos straightforward and to the point, No "hello guys today we gonna.... and blablablablabla.....".

first of all you need to check the injectors on the test bench for the damage and if injectors fail replace them. Then you will have to clean: all fuel lines, fuel tank, electric fuel pump in the fuel tank(most of the time electric pump is not damaged), change the fuel filter, change high pressure fuel pump, bleed the fuel system, start the engine and You Ready to Go.kzbin.info/www/bejne/p6vCoYeFg79mebcsi=EAcRcWXPTx0aj5FJ

@@HintSlice I think the issue also is that the F10/11 saddle tank only opens on one side unlike your BMW. Any ideas on cleaning the side with no access?

@@caldwell1981ac First, what came to mind was to take it off and flush. A second option without removing the fuel tank is to try pumping out all the fuel with metal shavings and making something like a bigger version of the cotton buds to clean inside the fuel tank. Of course, if there is enough space to do this procedure.

Hi can hpfp be replaced without timing tools as its on a keyway and the special tool holds the sprocket?? Many thanks

@@glenspence6016 yes glen you need to remove the sprocket cover at the back of the engine. It's a 17mm spanner cap. Then insert fully the sprocket holding special tool. Then with tool in place remove the torque in the center remove pump. Timing tool remains untill new pump is fitted.

I am very glad that I could help

Gracias. Y puedes ver este video kzbin.info/www/bejne/gKDNnICnop14sKMsi=ysTqFKFN9np5AS-3 tal vez para un poco de ajuste de torque, ya que los motores y el turbo son casi iguales. Thank you. And you can check this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/gKDNnICnop14sKMsi=ysTqFKFN9np5AS-3 maybe for some torque tightening, as the engines and turbo are almost the same

...and to this day this car has no problems with oil leaking from this valve cover and injector seal, so yeah it was very bad idea ;) if you know how to use good sealant properly and what you need to do before you use it on the surface, then everything will be ok. Sealant full Curing time (23°C): 24 h Just tell us your story of "omg you CANT do this!!!"

The second diamond washer was there, trust me there was two of them 18:28 . It must have two of them because they prevent bushing from rolling by itself (for sure). Maybe yours fell into the oil pan try to find it with a magnet or maybe someone didn't install it on a previos change, before You.

Cheers on the reply. Rechecked your video at the time stamp and definitely only shows the one diamond washer which is on the vibration dampener (which is on mine too) but not the second washer on inside of flange. either way I do believe what you’re saying about replacing two of them. Am doing a full engine rebuild after the common piston fault that these ea111 engines get Appreciate the info, also well done on the video 👍

I'm glad if this video help you at least in something. So i was watching some videos about timing chain replacement and it seems that no one mentioned this diamond coated washers maybe there are bushings with diamond coat on it or whatever... To be honest i was never paying attention to this until i decided to make this video)

And i wish You luck in everything You do

Interesting. Can’t seem to find any replacements for sale either Should be alright without it considering the one washer and oring on inside of flange if the main function is to stop it moving on its own Appreciate it and same to you. Good luck with future endeavours

Thanks. You mean this WL81-13-ZA6 water level sensor. It is possible to close by hand but there should be no gap between the head of this bolt(sensor) and the filter

Thank you

I was also worried about how they would come off, but it turns out they came off pretty easily no struggle at all , maybe because no one washed that engine twenty thousand freaking times a day like some clean engine enthusiasts ) and also this injectors have O-ring seal so the water or any dirt should not come in between them and chamber .

I hope you sucCEE'D

@@HintSlice haha, thanks mate, Hyundai team here ;)

@@HintSlice hi, one more thing - did you extract injectors on hot or cold engine?

Hi. On cold

Invented for Life : )

Thanks. I was using: 10mm wrench to undo electric harness 10mm socket 3/8, 1/4 to undo valve cover 12mm socket to undo bolts of the injectors Needle nose pliers to remove spring clamps from te injectors fuel return line Torque wrench Grease to grease up injectors, ceramic grease is commonly used but i was using copper grease Coloured covers are from hand sprayer and white covers are from selant torque Tightening : Injector clamping piece bolt 28-30Nm valve cover bolts 7.8-9.8 Nm So the reason I do all this stuff in the video was valve cover gasket leak and you won't be able to take off valve cover without removing injectors (in my case they were fine) and according to manual you need to replace copper washers every time you remove injectors If you have some issues with injectors the work of the engine will be unstable.

@HintSlice Thank you so much you are sound really appreciate. Keep up the good Job

@trysam and one more thing if the injector washers are failing you will hear it and you will see it because the part of the engine compression will be coming straight out of the the injectors chambers.

And one more thing anicetussk.best/product_details/81624738.html you can use this diagram to tighten valve cover i didn't mention that ther is two steps to tight this cover. And I think you noticed that whole video is reversed so you can download it from youtub and re revers it and you will get a video about how to install valve cover and injectors i think this is the part two of this video in it self

@HintSlice Yes it's very important step actually the same its important how to unscrew it

Hi. Yes that is correct

There is another way maybe even simpler is in this video on 11:12 kzbin.info/www/bejne/i6SknpStfK51eKcsi=eeDAm_vzAsc30yDn

you can cut open the fuel filter with scissors and see if there are any metal shavings or by removing fuel pressure regulator on the high pressure pump

@@HintSlice Thanks!

Np ;)

@@HintSlice Did this but no metal shavings inside the filter? 😕

@@blackace4423 well then step two remove fuel pressure regulator on the high pressure pump. And what is the problem with your engine? I mean what is the condition? Because one wise mechanic is saying : "condition cause correction confirm" Dave's Auto Center.

Glad I could help

How much time did u spend fixing it

@@orl4759 I don't remember exactly but It's somethig about 6 h

@@HintSlice thanks

@@orl4759 That's fine;) if you have more questions just ask.

I'm glad if this video helps

thanks, i hope it will

Thanks

@@HintSlice there is in ecoflex model all models have pump check service manual

Nope you don't have to take it off

Well like every bolt, If not over tighten them then it's gonna be ok

Yes. But this bolt have some loctite from the factory so you don't have to worry that it gona loose and if you tight it good enough.