Regarding the power supply outputting 19 volts instead of 17, the reason is they are transformers designed at a time where the electricity supply in France was 220V and not the 230V it is now. As a result these old power bricks place undue stress on these old electronic. It is a good idea to replace them with modern units really outputting 17V. 15 V units also work well and are easier to get hold of, just make sure they are center negative.

//Nick PS your approach to Disk on HPIL is correct C:\ is the HPIL drive. HP110PP auto recognizes devices on its HPIL loop unlike HP75C and assigns it next drive letter. My video capability is not as well developed as yours but I am working on that - soon I can send you a video that you can use on your video channal - you have better presence for the KZbin hope is that it will all workout well/ PS2// My next job is to change /add ANSI.sys which will allove better control of the screen by adding it into software rom draws - you can do all the vis on that I will share the info on Burning Roms for software - have no interest on being on KZbin in a large way //Nick

That "Something else fell out" @37:11 was your "Start" button from the right-hand side. It went off to the lower left. The spring went off to the upper left.

Read the video description to see what points I was going to raise.👍😉 BTW what did HDMI output on a Nokia look like? I had an old Sony Ericsson that had HDMI output but that was a bit of a gimmick. We're spoiled now with Samsung DEX. I can rock up to a workstation and plug in USB-C for KVM (single screen) and do a fair amount of work without having to have my laptop handy (and it charges the phone). Now go wave a strong magnet over your floor to find your springs :)

Regarding my errant shoulder-button spring ... looks like it's called a "tower spring" ... time to trawl Aliexpress to try to find a similar one ... Smaller diameter = 2mm, larger diameter = 3.5mm, length/height = 8mm ... I think

Looked like it played the games just fine to me. The processor is that Ingenic JZ4770 from 2012.

You could probably still get a working MV-1C and a NeoSD MVS for less than an AES goes for nowadays.

Song?

If thats that rubberized grip coating they seem to be using on things lately, I find IPA and a green souring pad (brillo pad) will remove the coating pretty well. I had to do an entire saitek hotas that had been in storage, pain but much better afterwards.

Looks great!

Whatever happened to being one of the cool kids ?

I’m not the only one that gets vexed about the term “roms”. I think this dates back to mame and mess. As all the games in arcade machines are held in rom. These days if I want a machines roms, I search for firmware. I feel your pain

Hi Brett! I was away for the weekend so only got to look at your video now. Very nice you build our high speed board and also like that you played our Happiehap game ;). Note I did an English version a few years back I think stored in the COMX/Games folder of my Emma 02 emulator. Also it looks like the COMiX is a bit faster than the COMX, must be the fact that it is not using DMA RAM refresh. So your game play will be a lot more difficult!

nice fix!

Nipped it out, good man! And great to see it working! BTW, wouldn't "C", "D", or "U" take you to disk utilities?, of which one would think would include a format routine. BTW, I prefer the Plato model 170 nippers. They are cheap, hold up very well, and can get into tight places. They are available on eBay Oz too. Just don't try to cut steel with them. Here's the CP/M disk for the Osborne. Is it the right one? archive.org/details/osborneexecutivecpm Odd, I bought two Goteks with the OLED, the latest (best) CPU, and the encoder from RabbitHoleComputing, and now they no longer list the Goteks on their site. Did I break the site? They should be here tomorrow, we'll see what I actually get. :) And I have the required adapter needed when you use a non-IBM floppy drive on its way too. Those came from TexElec BTW. And I have yet another IBM P70 coming in, hopefully it won't be as hopeless as some of the others.

Good to see the ROM is useful even without the supporting disk.

I have a TO8 and I can confirm the colour is off. It should be cyan blue and not green. It looks like the blue component of the RGB output is missing. Also, regarding the drives, Thomson computers see each side of the floppy disks as a separate drive. Disk 0 is the first side of the first disk, disk 1 the second side and so on... And last, the SD Drive clashes with the internal disc drive, to use it you must disable that drive either by unpluging its power line or by typing a Poke command to disable it each time you want to use it... In my case I've kept the drive connected and use a floppy disk with a little Basic program with the Poke that I boot on pressing B. The program disable the internal drive then launches the SD Drive menu

8:33 Had the same issue with my Elektronika MK-61, i made a new contact sheet out of paper and aluminium foil, might not be the best solution in terms of relyability, but it works after more then 6 month.

The MO5 was my second computer, after a ZX81. I got a SD Drive a few months ago but I use it with the MO5 bigger brother, the TO8. I wouldn't berate anyone for not knowing about Thomson computers, they were pretty popular in France and virtually unknown anywhere else

When will you work on the mini crt again

Hey mate ! I almost missed it hehehehe Unrelated to the video but I've been meaning to ask ... how did the imperialist adaptors turn out? :/

@3:01 C26 could use a touchup on the right hand leg. @3:04 There might be some solder splatter above IC25. @3:09 There's bit of splatter to the right of the top of IC23. Could be affecting which RAM chips the bits are getting read from (hence the RAM errors). Get some cold spray and hit the chips one at a time to see which one is the troublemaker. What does a meter say when you test KB0 - KB4 at the Z80? That should settle it. Don't be a hero, clip that Z80 out. And maybe a keyboard extender for the Speccy would be a handy thing.

I would be suspicious of the CPU at this point.

Hi sent you an email re contact.. re: rear panel video link interface I would like to buy. I will provide you with a blank cover.. If I can get contact going I will send you few jpgs of my 110+ upgrades.

Where can I download more RAMs?

"Not rehearsed." Heck. What fun would your channel be if rehearsed? :)

Good Evening, Comrade.

Glad to see that the Pico came in handy!

"Comment title here" :P

Nice one! Makes me wish I hadn't given the 6128 away.

you shoulda just put right angle pins on that board, not the edge connector....and then used it in one of the MX4 extensions...that way ya can run the ROM board and say a RAM board (and others) at the same time.. the M4 wifi board i have is pretty much the same functionality, just upload the roms via the wifi interface..(or load via commands on the CPC)...but much, much easier to use

Creality's horrible support is moving me towards saying AVOID THIS COMPANY AT ALL COSTS. DO NOT BUY! If you must buy a Creality printer, do not buy from Creality directly!

It looks like the /EF2 is serving a dual purpose here. Normally it is for keyboard repeat, but during reset it gets latched high or low according to the NTSC/PAL switch. It should then get reset from the 1802 via Q at some time after a reset but it isn't so it stays low when the switch is in PAL anh high in NTSC. The fix would be to strobe the 1802 Q line from low to high, but this would mean rewriting the ROM code. So your answer of switching from PAL to NTSC seems the right way for now since the code probably needs it set properly right after a reset. You might want to check if keyboard repeat works with the switch set to NTSC. If I'm right it won't due to the latching.

So let's back up and ask the question if we only want Auto-Repeat (henceforth "AR") in a certain video mode? No, I don't think so. So that can go away. The only line from the flip-flop that can pull EF2 low is /Q since it has the diode orientation set to conduct to ground when /Q is low. The clock line going into the flip-flop is unconnected, and I'm pretty sure that it was never intended to be driven from Q. Thank goodness that the (over-sized?) resistor R15 is in there, as it protects the output from your keyboard chip. But wouldn't a diode make more sense? Check out /PREDISP, which comes from the CPU, but curiously shows up on page #1 in a block called "cpu". What is the intent of page #1? I think that auto-repeat, and some of the display glue logic got mixed up and you should remove the PAL/NTSC switch. Which should mean that you can get rid of R15 as well (and forget the diode too).

So the PAL/NTSC switch that you switched to make the auto-repeat should be renamed "Auto-Repeat"? Sorted!

The diode stuff is probably to do with the PAL/NTSC selection logic and nothing to do with key repeating. They might have been using /RTP from the keyboard chip as a convenient 5V. The whole placement of the PAL/NTSC selection being there doesn't make any sense to me. I'd rework it with /RTP from the keyboard chip going to /RTP of the CPU directly, bypassing the switch, and joining Pin 2 of JP3 to a real 5V. (shrug) Does it compare with the original machine you have?

Very cool! I need to get myself one of those high-speed interfaces for my COMiX-35 and give it a try. 🙂 I've seen emails about it in the 1802 groups-io, but I haven't found the time yet. Some day!

..yeah..no idea on that schematic..something up there for sure ..INT coming into an input is strange.. D1 and D2 should always be opposite.. for Q and /Q to work (they always opposite)

Hi I would like to buy the video and battery cover...as I have HP 82985A Video interface .. Thanks excellent series on HP110 Plus..

Hi I have the HP Video Interface HP82985A and cabling - so I hope you would consider selling the back plate and the interface to the motherboard. Thanks. I also have a HP HPIL disk drives that I can share with my PC I wish to reburn the internal DOS211 by recompiling the HPIL components and upgrading to DOS5 or 6 The other approach is to add FORTRAN and HP-BASIC which I have running on my HP35670A different processor. Also un upgrade from 80C86 to NSC V30 including clock increase. I have 5 of those HP110 Plus units...as spares. Excellent Video Let's BURN some ROMs - hope you can do a Video on that //Nick

Well I'm late to the party, I didn't see this video come out. I'm pretty sure that the problem lies with the toolhead CAN Bus card, or the cable. So I would take the cover off of the toolhead and check the connection there first. If it's connected up then you are going to need some new electronics. But at which end? Disconnect the cable in the somewhat misnamed RS232 connectors (there are two of them as seen @7:14 where your fingers are. I'm referring to the one in the foreground with the Black, Green, White, Yellow & Red wires. The one in the background is most likely a stepper motor connector that got mis-labeled) and connect your scope channel #1 to White & Green, and channel #2 to Yellow & Green. If my guesses as to which wires are which are correct, it will show a pulse train coming from those pins. Reference AliExpress for a decent picture of your board: www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807031611129.html BTW, it sure looks like one end of the connector is not completely in its socket. But it's not out by much. An easy way to figure out which wires are your signal wires in a CAN Bus network is to take an ohmmeter and look for the pair that shows ~60 ohms (if you get 120 ohms then your cable is disconnected at one end). That should be the CAN High and CAN Low wires which would have a 120 ohm resistor at each end. Or if it's actually engineered properly, a resistor that matches the characteristic impedance of the cable. AB used to use 86 ohms for its "Blue Hose", later on it was 121 ohms for the cursed DeviceNet. GE used 150 ohms for its Genius I/O. Seeing as Creality didn't even bother to use a cable, I'm not sure what it should be. The Creality "110" error has just a "/' for its description, but based on the errors in the "110" range, it points to the toolhead. Which would explain why you aren't seeing a nozzle temperature. But it boggles the mind that Creality doesn't know what their own error code means. I would rate Creality slightly higher than FLSun. But that's like comparing the guy who beats his wife to the guy who beats his wife and his dog. I've owned both BTW. The FLSun came in non-functional, I had to build my own firmware. The Creality came in working, but the POS extruder/hotend kept accumulating plastic and had to be disassembled and cleaned monthly. I got tired of that nonsense, and gave it away. So pull the cover off of the tool head and check the connections there (look for a lit LED while you are at it), or better yet, pack it back up and get a X-MAX3 like mine. No more talk of this Bambu shit BTW. :)

Nice playthrough, and legendary game! There was a bug in Ozmoo 9 which made it impossible to build z3 games (like the standard version of Hitchhikers Guide) for MEGA65. This was fixed in Ozmoo 10, released a few days before this video was published. Maybe it's time to have a new go at a playthrough, with Ozmoo this time?

When aliens take over your PC...

How the heck is that happening?

Morse code alert @8:09! Congrats on getting it working. :) I have to make a board to adapter a Gotek to an IBM PS/2. There's already a board out there, but it is for a standard floppy. So I'll use the board as a starting point and go from there.

I went to the project Github page to look at the description and right away found that apparently the crystal also needs to be changed to make the PAL-NTSC change. PAL uses 17.734 MHz while NTSC has a 14.318MHz crystal. The one for NTSC is quite common on ISA bus PCs and some expansion cards. It looks like a fun project. I've always wanted to do some sort of a personal computer with the 1802. I used to do some satellite work with them, but a personal computer is a very different animal to tame. I wonder if someone has a spare PCB, since the board makers all demand a minimum even if you don't need more than one?

The yellow thing in the EXMOM is a hybrid integrated circuit. Effectively a small PCB encapsulated in expoxy. At a wild guess it combines luminance, H-sync & V-sync together with level shifting and impedance matching to produce a regular composite video signal from the TTL level signals the computer outputs.

Nice!! I put a GoTek into my Kaypro II and used a 1/2 bracket and then put in a 1/2 height drawer to hold my usd keys. I've made a video on it if you would like to see it

You could use a vacuum desoldering station like the Hakko 301, the key with these types of desoldering stations is that once the Hakko (or similar desoldering tools) show that they are up to temp, wait an additional ten minutes before you use it or you will be forever unclogging the beast. Low temp solder like this "Chip Quik" clone: www.amazon.com/FAST-CHIP-Removal-Rework-Lengths/dp/B00OOBIJ6I?th=1 is relatively cheap, and drops the melting point of the solder down to a very low temp. I suggest that you bend a piece of 14 AWG copper wire, or your equivalent, into a flattened "S" (all crimped together) and place it between the two rows of pins of the connector. Flux the dickens out of it, and flood the copper with the Fast Chip solder. If you use enough flux, the Fast Chip will mix with the normal solder and lower the melting point of the solder to where it will stay molten for a very long time (which also means that it would be able to "slosh" around and burn you for a longer amount of time too). If you no longer require the board, do what my old partner does, and put the board in a vise, clamped at the opposite end of where the part that you want to recover is. Take a torch and heat up the solder side of the part until it is molten, spring the board back and let 'er rip! It helps if the board has a stop to allow the part to fly onward without it. A box against the wall is handy for catching the freshly liberated parts. Do I need to mention the importance of gloves, long sleeves, and safety squints? Surely not...

for the FRB connectors, why not to desolder from the existing board while waiting for the parts? if you want to revive the original board, you can do it later with the ordered parts..