Glad to hear, thanks!

Thanks, I think I will reprint the enclosures and add some radiators to them as you have suggested. Also ordered a calibrated mic so I can measure the difference.

Thanks for your comment, yes correct it is most likely not optimal size as I mentioned in video. Good to know about the dats v3 if I need in future. For future projects I think I will just buy speakers that are supplied with all the specifications so I can design correct enclosures for them.

I'm not sure what the crossover point is, it's just a 2.1 amplifier board.

Thank you for your comment, I might add some in the future and try it out.

Thank you. The 2-inch speakers are being used as full range.

Hi Andrew, yes they are both great suggestions! I am currently using winISD on my next speaker design. And plan to get a calibrated mic.

Thanks very much!

Thanks, I think I will!

Thanks!

Kinda the whole point of the video mate, but thanks for your input!

Thank you!

The fuses aren't 3d printed just the trunking, in saying that I do have ABS filament on order and plan on re-printing the fuse bolt holder out of that. The victron power in is also made from ABS so it should be fine once I do that. But yeh that's a valid point!

Hi Matthew, System is running great. I have 2.6kw of solar on the shed roof which generates up to approx 10-15kw/h a day. I have 6.6kw of solar on house roof, which generates up to approx 30-40kw/h a day. Our house only uses around 8-12kw/h over night. The lowest the battery usually gets to is around 40 percent. I will add extra battery capacity as our energy usage expands over time, such as getting an EV. Also plan to possibly build a pool which will be heated. Cheers mate

@griffinsBuilds sounds awesome! We have an EV already and it takes up all our 8.3kw house / grid mounted system here in cloudy Melbourne.

Hey ben, Thanks for your comment! Im not sure if its more effecient to buck or boost, but i generally like higher voltages due to the lower currents and less voltage drop. I thought about running a switch to swap between inputs but just decided to keep it simple (I have another fridge i use for when I need more capacity and need to run for longer periods). Thats a great idea to trick the LCD board with a resistor to run on the 20v without buck or boost, I wasnt sure how to go about doing that. I also though about putting in an internal battery with USB C charging capability i think that would be cool. Thanks

@@griffinsBuilds Awesome. Sounds good. If I decide to tear further into my fridge and work out how to trick the computer I'll be sure to let you know :)

Sounds good

Hi, there is no need for a boost convertor, the P signal (from control board to compressor) sets the voltage limits (H M L) by setting a resistance, If the P terminal on the compressor is linked to C terminal with 220k ohms, then the compressor runs from 9.6 to 31.5 Volts This can be done under the control panel.

@@andydoano7912 are you sure it accepts all the voltages in between? I'm pretty sure even with the resistor it has defined 12 and 24v modes

Thanks 👍

Actually, I can use all the capacity, as explained in my video.

Hi mike's, I discussed some of this in the video when looking at the charts plotted from home assistant. The batteries would likely reach 0 percent around the same time (due to when the voltages gets lower on the smaller battery much more currently will flow from the larger battery) And they also fully charge and reach 100 percent at the same time. I don't get any error messages from either bms. Thanks for your comment

Hey mate, what do you mean by management unit? Do you mean BMS? jk bms don't have current limiting, they do have overcurrent protection though.

"I'm currently using the BMS JK JK-PB2A16S-15P." ->Can rs485 to can 485

oh ok yeh thats an JK inverter bms. I personaly dont want to bother with communication between the inverter and BMS. The inverter bms doesnt have current limiting so they dont actually regulate the discharge current, the battery voltages do that automatically so its not needed anyway. Also when you using a victorn system with a venus os on raspberri pi or cerbo gx if for whatever reason your pi or gx fails your inverter will also stop discharging or charging. If you just let the inverter calculate capacity it will keep running even when your cerbo fails when running off grid. Andy from off grid garage has also discussed this. I have been running mine for months now with no communication and it all works fine. Also the inverter bms is much more expensive, so not worth it for me really.

@@griffinsBuilds I carefully reviewed your video. Currently, you're using the JK model, which lacks communication capabilities. We should consider discussing an upgrade to the IK model with communication features. This would be beneficial, though it may involve significant costs. I hope this is a helpful personal suggestion

@@ticknguyen yes that's correct! I just explained the reasoning for this on the above comment.

I might consider doing that in future. Thanks!

Yes its fairly easy, just need to use the batmon addon. It scans for bluetooth devices and you then just put in the bluetooth address of the jk BMS and it reads everything.

Thank you, Yes no problem I will add the link below video for it.

There is more to come on that in future videos. I have been running my house of solar and battery system for months now, this battery build I made to add to that system.

@@griffinsBuilds great love to see your finished project

@knightrider6473 hey mate, yep just been busy with other things, but I have a few projects planned for this channel.