Couple stuff i recommend is to use a jack to push up against the lower ball joint when trying to impact it off if its spinning, also this is the sane process for any awd IS250/300/350/F 06-2020ish. good job keep working on your own car. I see alot of haters in the comments lol.

Take a screwdriver that you do not love, heat the tip with a propsne torch. Use it to melt a deep groove on each side of the connector and it will fall apart. The O ring may be stuck on, but with another jab with the reheated screw driver, it will!

Ale chujowy milkiway

You can usually hear the old hose with a heat gun and it will soften quickly and pull off of the tube.

Thanks

The rear brakes, cailper bracket bolts and the capiler itself, is the bolt torque the same as the front? 59 for the bracket bolt and 19 for the cailper bolt? And is this applicable to the 05 subaru legacy Touring/Wagon?

cotter pin

*_From the Haynes manual, Fluid amount and Torque specs 42TE & 62TE_* for the 2008-18 Dodge Grand Caravan (and Cargo)/Chrysler Town & Country Van Routine Maintenance FAQ ----Automatic Transaxle Fluid Type: Mopar ATF +4 fluid or equivalent ----Automatic Transaxle (drain and refill)** 42TE (4-speed) 4.0 quarts 62TE (6-speed) 5.5 quarts **The best way to determine the amount of fluid to add during a routine fluid change is to measure the amount drained. It’s important to not overfill the transaxle!!! Recommended Fastener Torque ----Automatic Transaxle Oil Pan Mounting Bolts 41TE (4-speed) 165 in-lbs 62TE (6-speed) 105 in-lbs ----Transaxle Filter Mounting Nuts 62TE only (6-speed) 40 in-lbs

Thank you for the heads up. i put a large container underneath and I did the 4 bolts toward the rear first then slowly did the side ones till it started dripping out and i let it all slowly drip out before i took off the rest of the bolts.

What year Chevy Cruze camera did you use?

Very well done video! Thanks for the help

ive had this same problem. ive replaced the heater control valve, and the blend door actuator. this weekend i'll be flushing the heater core so hopefully that works but im running out of ideas. The passenger side gets a decent amount of heat but the drivers is either cold or warm

Outside of taking the Name of the Lord in vain, a very helpful video. I'm not sanctimonious, I just Fear the Almighty!

Only thing I don't like about floating calipers...if you don't service them regularly you get uneven pad wear... then again i'm spoiled with my 6 to brembos on my challenger... Sooooo even....

Gaskets are made for a reason. I try and never use that gasket making stuff, sometimes you have to though, not on that installation.

I’m in the middle of doing this job, bought OEM replacement leather covers on eBay for $310. Have the first seat disassembled and have sanded and primed the base, painted the trim, and cleaned the connectors with electronics cleaner. All looks awesome. Am ready to reassemble, a bit afraid of the hog nose rings. Am older and have weak hands. I’ll keep you posted, your video gave me the courage. Thanks!!!

Are we replaced support and still doing the same thing call on the driver side. What else can I replaced? 2:10

I changed the port and it’s still cold air coming in the driver side. What can it be wrong?

I have the same problem can the heater core leaks in side engine bay or just on the lines

Can you tell me what you torqued the caliper bolts to. I feel it’s very important, but no one ever tells you the number.

Way better video than the yokel I watched on another channel. GJ!

Seriously you have the finesse of a gorilla

Is this only for dual option hvac or not because i’m having this issue but my car does not have the dual option

What in the Kentucky fried crack rock did I just watch. This has got to be one of the most disturbing half-assed backwards way of removing the axle on this particular vehicle.

After watching your video, I fixed the problem in less than 5 minutes with no parts replaced. The real problem was I just had to wiggle the connectors on the transmission line. Thanks for the info.

Thanks!

What he is not telling you is that this was edited- the attachment of the caliper clip actually took him a day and half. Which beats my time half a day😬

Great video! Definitely should’ve replaced the rubber grommet though instead of putting the old cracked one back in. That can cause a evap leak.

Looks lik pain in the assholes

Excellent!😊

Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. Very informative and helpful!

To get the oil out of the spark plug tubes use a spray bottle sprayer sprayed into a napkin or cup or whatever that's what I did on my 2004 Lincoln LS V8

Improve your lighting and the focus will improve. When recording, you can never have too much light. I got some tips but only watched halfway, too frustrating.

Normally you get a new axel bolt with those bearings .

This happened to me yesterday lol took me about an hr or two to get out

1. rotate cotter pin with needle nose pliers then pull. 2. hit ball joint nut with a wrench before you disassemble from the knuckle bud...much easier. or if you did it your way, you could have literally just stuck a screwdriver in the open hole where the bolt was just to zip off your ball joint nut...

As an Electrical Engineer with 30+ years experience and has worked for Ford and GM, I find it incredible that they would have different wiring harnesses for each build. Yes, one harness with the wire for the mirror would cost marginally more, but when you factor in: That you would reduce your part count. Reduce the inventory that would need produced, stocked and tracked. Eliminate a step in assemble making it easier and faster. AND be able to provide as a easy dealer upgrade option. I would be surprised if it didn't turn out that the company would actually make/save money. This is why the foreign auto makers are kicking our a$$. This seems like a typical example of someone "having an idea" and then omitting all the tangential costs that it incurs.

Rubber o ring is just to hold tje rotor on when going down the assembly line. It does not do anything and can be thrown away.

thank you

Wow! A video of a guy's balled head! Great!

The tank bottom was dented due to the fork lift carrying it into the junk yard. Every jeep I looked at had the same dents in the bottom. None were worth removing. The tank sits lower than the frame so the forks got it. $245 new from amazon.

Thank you I had no idea how to do this and I've never turned a wrench

Where is the upstream sensor?

HELP. So I unscrewed the actuator and when I tested the heat, it moved! I lubed it all up, and held it in place and tested hot to cold and it moved great and the heat worked. Screwed it back together and it won’t work again. Any ideas? I used silicone lube.

I knew a guy who did these on a different ford car but he didn’t have torque wrench. He tightened all the bolts to the best of his ability and I don’t recall him having a problem. He never had any air impacts but he did use a dewalt battery power impact. I guess they are not as powerful as the air impacts. I’ll have to ask him why doesn’t he use torque wrench’s on axel nuts.

What size is the axel nut though

Did you have to bleed them

Was that single climate control, or dual?

you struggled with the axle because you didnt remove the strut bolts to angle it and give room for it to move. also would have given you space for the right tools to hit the 4 hub bolts

Nice video. For me is the second time I had to replace it. Who knows why it breaks. And I had it greased up and all.