Yeah it’s weird. Seems like a bug to me, that PD needs to look at. It even happens on a controller. Shouldn’t happen as much as it does.

I got mine working without freezing with firmware but then RMA’d the base just so they could check it out because it did have freezing with certain FW combos. Then my new base was perfect until GT7 1.49. Then got a few disconnects. But now using light blue PS4 mode and it’s solid. No problems at all. Haven’t tried dark blue PS5 mode again since 1.50, but with PS4 mode it’s perfect. Hopefully they figure out what the issue is but they are very slow to get updates out. The fact it works in PS4 mode makes me think they can figure it out soon though. Fullforce not implemented yet in GT7, so it’ll be interesting to see what happens with that or when that will happen.

I didn't make this mod.. just showing it in the vid. The guy who made the mod isn't working on FC3 anymore.

Thanks! Yup the first gold lap I did was with no ABS. Car is more fun to drive like that I think, but not as fast ultimately around the entire lap. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eaa2Xnxsp5J5i7M

Yeah I never use it - (the chase cam) while racing and don't particularly like it while I'm watching replays.. People seem to like it for youtube vids though, even though a lot of people also dislike it. I think it gives people a better sense of where the car is on the track though, that's my theory as to why people watch videos with that view more often.

Hi, search for the following video : "Best Chase Camera Settings in Gran Turismo 7". It will improve the chase cam a bit.

It's just Gran Turismo 7 on a PS5 at 4K. The PSVR2 footage is live recording which is only in 1080p, and I upscale it to 4K.

There is no spoon

In all seriousness, I don't like it either. I'll quote what I responded to another viewer. "Yeah I never use it - (the chase cam) while racing and don't particularly like it while I'm watching replays.. People seem to like it for youtube vids though, even though a lot of people also dislike it. I think it gives people a better sense of where the car is on the track though, that's my theory as to why people watch videos with that view more often."

Hi, search for the following video : "Best Chase Camera Settings in Gran Turismo 7". It will improve the chase cam a bit.

Amen dude. Finally someone said it...

That’s pretty epic! I’m not sure where I ended up. Edit- just checked and I was 405th. My best place yet.. 21st in USA out of 25,555 players. I’m pretty happy with that one.

I dunno, what’s a pr? 🤷‍♂️😆

@@bwx_gaming personal record

@@benmarley3086 Oh LOL, nope I saved about 0.1 seconds overall, but on the first sector I saved just over a tenth by using hand brake. But on my last best lap (just uploaded), I actually lost 0.136 seconds on sector 1, but smashed my overall lap by lot. Got down to 1:03.778! But I couldn't match my best 1st sector for some reason. But I tried! I know I'm capable of a 1:03.5xx, but couldn't do it yesterday, it's tricky! kzbin.info/www/bejne/m6LdiGehg713naM

@@bwx_gaming nice bro. I can’t get a sub 04 lol.

I think I’ve only done three total laps under 1:04.000. There’s a little luck involved for me for sure! It’s tough! I had to watch the fastest laps to get some ideas.

Thanks! Wait till you see the vid I'm about to publish! 😁 I crushed the time in this vid. Haha.

Thanks, it’s so easy with this car! 🤘

@@gurujoe75 LOL sometimes it does, seems like I’ve seen them before. Sometimes not. Maybe in GT8. 😆

@@bwx_gaming I've only played GT 1-2-3-4 on PS1 and PS2. Nothing newer than that, never had PS 3-4-5. That's why I'm unpleasantly surprised that the base is still the same as on PS1. The collision physics of the car with the surroundings is still just as "weird", the skid marks en masse are not, the plastic strips bordering the road are made of "concrete". I suppose the car can't be rolled over.

I’ve definitely flipped over in lots of cars. But all the other things are still the same like concrete plastic tape, etc.

@@bwx_gaming I was expecting at least small evolutionary improvements but the only thing I see is an increase of polygons on the cars, a bit on the landscape, some playing with numbers aka car physics. Rally was so bad on PS1-PS2 and supposedly it only got better a few days ago. On PS1 I'm the holder of many lap-time records and naively waited for the GT series to mature but I see that progress is still not happening. It's still just a car on tarmac and there doesn't really need to be anything beyond the tarmac. The collision physics with the other cars I'm looking at is still just as bad. Anyway, I'm waiting, I don't think it's about the HW performance, the dev team is terribly little progressive, terribly passive.

@gurujoe75 Rally/ Dirt / is a lot better after 1.49. I haven’t tried snow yet. I wrote GT off after GT6. I was done with it. Gave it another shot with GT7 and PSVR2 and it’s a lot different now. PD/ Sony still make incomprehensible decisions I can’t comprehend but overall it’s still pretty good especially with VR in a similar rig with a DD wheel and load cell brake, with bass shakers and everything. It’s pretty good. Single player still leaves a lot to be improved on, like massively. But even with all the issues, especially in VR, it’s pretty good. Time trials are good, just messing around doing random races in random cars, etc. It depends on what you want in the game. Skid marks aren’t a deal breaker but it’s one of those “WTF?” decisions PD makes that I don’t understand. Same with lack of support for VR like there’s no complete HUD and no real time delta timer so it makes time trials harder and makes you somewhat blind in multiplayer. But if you have a wheel and simrig, it’s pretty nice in VR, I came look past the issues and still have fun with it.

🤘

Let's see your lap sizzlechest! 😆

​​​@@bwx_gaming I'm sitting on pretty much exactly the same lap time, minus the tank slapper through turn 1

@@seanoconnor8135 Yeah I only put about 10 minutes into it and that was my first and only gold lap, and last lap I did. Could probably drop five tenths pretty easily especially if I enables ABS weak.

Oh wait I guess you didn't realize I pulled hand brake and crashed on purpose after my lap? LOL

​@@bwx_gaming I was referring to your first lap...

They did a nice job on this classic track!

@@maxmoser412 I just tested this out with new Lambo with race suspension and same kind of thing happens as in vid but if you raise and stiffen up suspension it goes away on my GT DD X. My wheel did start freezing again after 1.49 though but using light blue PS4 mode fixed it.

@@bwx_gaming I just know my buddies DDE has almost zero force feedback post update. That's even with the settings in the game and the wheel jacked up.

Yeah I’ve heard people having that issue. I guess some people can fix it with updated firmware. Mine feels amazing but I have some beta firmware on there so not sure. Actually for me it’s the best FFB I’ve ever felt in any Grand Turismo in my life. It’s really good. Hope PD fixes it for all wheels soon!

Thanks! Fun TT!

Yeah I think it's a bug or "feature" in GT7 where if you use wide wheels and/or lower suspension too much, the tires gets bound up in the wheel well of the car. A way to test it is to raise suspension or put on regular wheels. Once in a while a stock tune will do this too though so I think it's more of a bug than feature! If PD fleshed it out and made it make some grinding noises and had some FFB vibes when it happened it would actually be a cool realistic feature.

I just checked out your vid and yeah it looks a little different. I wonder if you have stock wheels and tires and stock suspension on it? Maybe this bugs acts a little different in new update too. They did change a lot with the suspension and steering.

And if it is stock, I wonder if you upgraded suspension, and then raised it way up in the front, if it would still do it? That would at least narrow it down I guess.

On video it is modified with race suspension. But this occurs in fully stock gallardo aswell just less severe.

Yeah that I would consider a bug. I noticed it happened in an online time trial with fixed setup on a Honda Civic quite a while ago. And there’s a Porsche that it happens to with stock suspension on some tracks. People say it’s intensional by PD but I don’t think so if it happens with stock suspension height. I think they need to fix it! (Responded with my main account before - just noticed).

@@sel_maestro Yeah it’s like this track was made for VR.

@@rookietoprobuildz Yeah it’s pretty nice!

@@bwx_gaming just got mine yesterday! Worth it.

Yeah that persistent FFB after a race is a known issue but different than this one actually. Who knows if they're related but probably not according to Fanatec. I RMA'd this wheel and got a new one and it's been flawless for weeks, but just had this freeze in GT7 again yesterday unfortunately.

I'm amazed I got a gold lap! Crazy car/ track TT combo.

Thanks! Yeah no way I could gold this with a controller. I'm ok with a controller, but not fast or consistent enough to gold most of these TTs with one. This wheel is definitely an advantage, + PSVR2, makes it pretty fun.

Thanks, no problem. Yeah I've heard people say that too and I've tried it many times. I go more towards that direction than not (higher on wheel, lower in game with) with this beast of a FFB wheel base, but it hardly ever feels right to me at 100% FFB. Maybe if there was such a thing as a race sim with perfect physics and perfect FFB effects then that would work, but setting FFB to 100 is only one setting out of a bunch of different settings on wheel and in-game that all affect each other. So it depends on a lot of different settings what 100% FFB does. The first FFB wheel I had was more than 25 years ago and I can't even remember all the wheels I've had. I tend to find what works for a game or sim in general and then go from there on a per-car basis and tire type basis. Race tires feel a lot different than road tires, same with dirt and snow tires. I don't use the settings in vid, I do go higher on FFB on wheel and lower in GT7 top slider (force) most of the time but almost never 100% on the wheel. Maybe in cars that have no power steering in real life, like open seaters or go carts, but most cars in GT7 have power steering racks, so I try to make it feel like what I think the real car would feel like. Or at least so that the max force you feel normally would be what that car would be like in real life with a little extra to simulate G-force. I try to get the best feel around the center for road feel. In GT7 the top slider I usually set lower, about 4 to 6, and the bottom slider higher, 7 to 10. And FFB% on wheel around 50 to 85. But it depends on a lot of the other settings on this wheel what that feels like and how strong that is when you're driving. Like on that McLaren / Le Mans time trial I had it set like this and it felt really nice: - In GT7 - 5 on top slider, 8 on bottom slider. - On Wheel - SEN: AUTO FFB: 60 NDP: 10 NFR: OFF NIN: OFF INT: 5 FEI: 100 FOR: 100 SPR/ DPR: OFF edit- this car: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qnaypImDhd2dfKs If I cranked FFB to 100 with those settings it would feel way too strong when hitting curbs and you'd get huge jolts through the wheel that were way too strong at times, so then you'd have to reduce FFB in game further, and then lose tire/ road feel just off center. I'd encourage anyone to listen to what other people say, try their settings, and then do a lot of experimentation by themselves to figure out what works best for them personally. I think it's different for everybody what they think it should feel like, and how to get it dialed in to your taste. It's probably more important to understand what each individual setting does and how that affects the overall experience. The only way to do that is experiment a lot and try different things. ✌

@@bwx_gaming thank you for your detailed reply and thoughts, that very useful and appreciated you taking the time to respond is so much depth. I have yet to tinker with each setting to see what it actually does, so your recommendation is sound and I shall follow that suggestion. I agree about personal settings and how it feels to the individual, I copied someone else's settings and could not get on with it as it was way too strong using the same track and car as they had. Brings it home to you about personal settings and there's not a definitive one size fits all setting for each characteristic. Still on a steep learning curve and currently I'm still quicker on the controller than on the wheel. However I do notice I'm more precise and my braking is better and more refined. I just need to practise, practise, practise.

Me too my son takes over smh but none the less pure joy since I got the dd extreme worth every penny

​@@johntisbury Funny how youtube hides our comments from each other and don't give notifications. I barely ever get notifications for comments anymore. If I don't respond it's because youtube is censoring my comment notifications as usual. 9-25-2024

LOL tell me about it! Haha. Very tough. I thought I was pretty good at the ring until this test. I learned a lot trying to get gold with this car, that's for sure. Lots of these I can get .5 to 1.5 seconds clear of gold. Maybe with a bunch more laps I could drop another half second but you have to be pretty consistent which is hard over such a long lap!

@@bwx_gaming I had to work quite hard to get gold for this one as well, especially when this car is much harder to control than the BMW or the previous Honda FF drive car. Also, the last bit after the long straight is where I made most mistakes. Consistency is certainly the key here, and unlike the CE where you can practice sector by sector, you cannot do that here for that part after the long straight...

Yeah love this time trial! Too bad they get deleted and can’t keep trying.

Yeah that was bad, and I made so many other mistakes. But.. it was only my 4th or 5th lap, first session trying. I think I can gold it, just have to put in more laps and figure out the limits, and then try to remember them! LOL - Lots of time to save. Not too bad for a first attempt I guess. Need to get back at it tomorrow! Love this TT combo! ✌

Only 20 bucks. Fun VR flight game for that.

Yeah basically raise the suspension until it doesn't do that anymore. Problem is that it happens sometimes on fixed tune cars from PD on time trials, so not sure it is a "feature" like some people are saying. I call it a bug. Not sure if it has anything to do with Fanatec wheels though, I think it's a GT7 problem, not a Fanatec problem.

@bwx_gaming prob but atleast we can have some what of idea what it is ty

Yup 457 Driver Firmwares, but then for the wheelbase FW, there's a hotfix that I installed and I have had no issues since then. So it's: Driver 457 Wheelbase FW 2.1.0.4 (From the Fanatec Forum "CS_DD_v2.1.0.4_hotfix_disconnection_issue_test_release.eff") forum.fanatec.com/categories/drivers 2.1.0.4 Not directly from 456 driver even though it has the same FW number. Not sure if it's the same exact FW, that was a standalone file, manually updated in Fanatec control panel. Wheel FW 1.0.7.0 (457) Wireless QR FW 1.1.0.1 (457) Just played another few hours tonight and no problems. Used this Scirocco in that weekly challenge Kyoto Part 10 lap race. Using front USB on PS5, also not using sleep mode on PS5. Powering on wheel after PS5 boots up and on home screen. GT7 FFB today: top FFB slider - 3 bottom slider - 10 On wheel: SEN 720 FFB 85 FUL OFF NDP 30 NFR OFF NIN OFF INT 5 FEI 100 FOR 100 SPR, DPR OFF Felt really good, nice feel around center, also builds up weight nice on corners. No freezing or disconnects so far. 4 or 5 days playing. Lots of hours. Was also using PSVR2.

On page 8 - Post by Marcel Pfister on April 30th is a link to that Wheelbase FW if you want to try it. Works for me so far! 🤞 forum.fanatec.com/discussion/30856/fanatec-driver-457-release-candidate-for-csl-clubsport-and-podium-all-wheels/p8

@@bwx_gaming How do I downgrade and install this hotfix? which program or application should I use I'm a layman

Check out tue Fanatec forum. You use the driver software on PC.

Check out the description of the video linked below. I'm using 457 drivers, and a hotfix FW for just the wheelbase and have played many hours and several days with no freezing or disconnects. I have a link to that hotfix 2.1.0.4 wheelbase FW and what I have been doing in description of that video. So far so good! No problems yet. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qaSblZiDbLyIhKc

If it’s the fan it’s probably ok. Could replace the fan or contact Asus and see what they say. I never did. I replaced card and this is my backup card. Was going to upgrade anyways. Will hurt resale value if you sell it.

😆 Yeah I wish! Side note I ran wheel with heavy FFB for several hours since and no problems.

For some reason, this was very easy for me. L O L, not sure why. I think it only took about nine or ten laps.

Oops answered with main account. On my phone. 📱 ✌️😆

Yeah controller is harder for me. I wouldn’t be much faster than you with a controller on this one.! Thanks but I’m still slow compared to the really fast guys.

You need to hook it up to PC and update firmware to at least 455 driver firmwares. Probably best to try 457 but I don’t think you can downgrade to 455 on wheelbase after installing 457 FW so something to be aware of. I had a few freezes and one disconnect on 457 but just played for hours today with no issues.

Check on the Fanatec forum to see what’s going on with the firmwares. I personally think the firmwares are in beta stages no matter what they are saying.

@@bwx_gaming thank you. I have downloaded the 455 instead of 457. There’s too many issues reported in the forum for 457. Locking up and disconnecting. I’ll stick with the 455 for now. But thank you for saving me.

@@tolgaguneren9435 Yeah no problem. I was just playing GT7 for about 4 hours on 457 with strong FFB settings and it worked perfect though! But yeah maybe best bet is 455 right now. I only had 2 or 3 disconnects in 2 months with 455 firmwares but I had 456 FW for the wireless QR FW. It's a nice wheel either way, very nice FFB. I'm sure they'll get the FW sorted out eventually!

@@bwx_gaming are you running a PC or PS5? Maybe that makes a difference too

I just completely uninstall 455 drivers and reboot PC, I also uninstall Fanalab just incase. Then I install 457 drivers and reboot PC. Then I hook up base with no wheel on it and update the wheelbase and Wireless QR FIRMWARE, THEN WHEN IT SAYS TO I INSTALL WHEEL AND THEN LET IT UPDATE FIRMWARE FOR WHEEL. AND THEN YOU WANT TO TURN THE WHEEL OFF AND ON AGAIN AND THEN YOU SHOULD BE GOOD TO GO. I’m on my phone and I have no idea why they just all capitalized letters but I’m not changing it lol

@@bwx_gaming thank you man. I will try that. Not very smart when it comes to PC and stressed about bricking my base.

It’s a valid concern! Just take your time and you should be good. Also never hit power button during wheelbase boot-up phase!!!!!!!!!!!!! ✌️

Check out updated description (just now) if you are getting feezes or disconnects!

I’m on driver 455. At the moment, it’s working okay with occasional crashes. I did have wheel disconnect issues initially, but that was at the beginning because of trouble updating firmware. The base updated fine; the wireless didn’t and got stuck on 0.0.0.0, but after a couple of tries, it updated. I then attached the wheel and went to update my podium button hub, and the firmware updater crashed. I waited 50 minutes or so and forced an exit, then tried again. It did it again, so against advice from the internet, I turned the wheel base off, then back on, and restarted my PC, and it updated the button hub, then updated the Xbox wheel hub v2. I had to update from the original firmware the wheel shipped with because of all the errors I got, like activating mouse mode would make the mouse constantly move, and also feedback just lagging along with other things. I play in VR, so mouse mode on my wheel is great when not hunting for controllers. I’ve only had the wheel for a week, and I have noticed various things like VR bugging out now for some reason, more GPU spikes in Assetto Corsa which I didn’t have before; these spikes cause frame rate issues. My GPU on standard Kunos tracks with some visual mods uses around 32%, and then will have random spikes to over 150%, but I don’t see these spikes in Afterburner. I have an RTX 3090, 64GB RAM, and an i9-9900K, just for reference. I don’t know how it compares to yours, but since things are working okay, I am a little hesitant to update to another driver. so just wondering if you tried the driver and what the outcome was, and also have you noticed anything unusual with assetto corsa if you play it or other games?

Report it to Fanatec. They seem to want to blame it on hardware problems. If enough people report it, maybe they’ll actually try to fix it lol

Check out updated description (just now) if you are getting feezes or disconnects!

455 firmwares were actually more stable for me in GT7 until I started using 10 on the sensitivity slider in GT7 FFB settings. When using a lower setting I had only one disconnect with 455 FW in several weeks. I might go back to 455 firmwares and try running lower sensitivity settings in GT7. But that setting makes FFB feel really precise. Or maybe it’s just a coincidence 🤷‍♂️. Who knows. LOL

I think it’s a bug in new firmware, but not sure. Fanatec at first was saying it’s a hardware fault but then lots of people were reporting similar issues with new driver 457 firmware. So not sure yet. I hope it’s a software bug and not problem with wheelbase.

Def a bug just like other drivers. Fanatec needs to get there support in order they say and accpet things completely wrong. Just like they dont inform people of srrvo coil whine which is normal on most servo motors and now they do rma over anything instead of setting realistic expectations. ​like simucube wont except rma for noises from fdb or coul whine tons of them do it from simucube and people are informed its normal. Fanatec needs to really get there supoort spme knowledge. Also no this jsnt a hardware bug happenig to you its def a software issue just like many software issues that dont effect everyone. @bwx_gaming

Yeah hopefully they can get it sorted out! It’s a really nice wheel base, has amazing FFB. They just need to get a good set of firmware out for it. It does not feel like a hardware problem, it definitely feels like a software issue with all these freezes and disconnect issues.

Check out updated description (just now) if you are getting feezes or disconnects!

its probably a usb overloading bug.

Yup I think it's definitely just a bug in GT7. If you raise up suspension on these cars it doesn't happen at all. I was going to make another vid showing that. I don't think it's an intended "feature" though since it happens on cars with stock tune sometimes.

It’s just remote play, has to be on same wifi network and it’s running in the PS5. So you run ps app on phone and remote play ti phone and then pair ps5 controller with phone. You could play in a different room of your house or whatever but can’t play in a car or somewhere else other than your house wifi.

@@bwx_gaming o ok

@@bwx_gaming btw do you think gt sport is better than gt7 or gt7 better I miss gt sport online

GT Sport is the only mainstream GT I never played. Never played PSP stuff either. I gave up on GT after GT6, never had a PS4 either. So I have no idea if it’s better or not. Probably very similar from reviews I’ve seen.

No regrets, it's a really nice DD wheelbase, super powerful and precise. it has lots of "bandwidth". Feels good at higher FFB levels but also with lower FFB. The wheel / rim itself is fine but not anything special, but works great in GT7 obviously with all the specific buttons for PS5/ GT7. But you can upgrade to a much nicer wheels. "Fullforce" and the wheel itself is not even fully supported in GT7 yet so it should only get better over time... that is if Fanatec as a company is still going in the future which I'm 90% sure will also be fine. I'd check out the situation with Fanatec before buying though. I ordered this the day it was available and it all was delivered (NY, USA) within 2 weeks so no problems there either. The issues become apparent if you have a problem that requires RMA or warranty work, it's not going to be a quick or smooth process right now, hopefully that will also improve in the future. The FFB is great though and PS5/ PC compatibility made this the obvious choice for me. I'm not a rich guy and this was expensive! But not really that expensive compared to other hobbies that people can get into, like real motorcycles and real cars, etc.. But with this wheel and PVR2, in a solid rig with bass shakers, it's crazy immersive and fun. I'm definitely getting my money's worth out of this stuff!

Thanks! Yeah they did a great job, the sense of speed is crazy, you really feel like you’re in the car. It doesn’t get old!

That sucks. Have you tried installing 455 drivers and updating or downgrading wheel base firmware? That's usually what the problem is. Driver and FW for 457 is supposed to fix that in a couple weeks (mid April now, pushed back twice so far).

I think I had to update it to at least 455 for it to work with PS5, but I would not touch 456. The bug is with the base 456 FW though, so it's ok to leave 455 base FW and update wheel and QR FW. And if 457 doesn't have any major bugs I think that driver and FW versions will probably be the one to upgrade to when the time comes. I guess now it's going to be mid APRIL! That is if they dont come out mid April and say it's delayed for another several weeks or months. Yeah that is ridiculous. And also no support for wheel in GT7 after 2 updates so far which is also ridiculous but oh well..

​@@bwx_gamingWith that rim attatched ypu def needed to update it luckilt i got the mclarne gt3 which has had plenty of updstes over the yesrs so it will already be ready. The base wont need it as its ready out of the box. But the gt7 wheel rim isnt. It needs to uodate for that rim to even work on ps5 with the bade so makes

@@reviewforthetube6485 Yeah I tired the WRC wheel with the plastic QR2 wheelside I took off of the GT wheel and the WRC wheel worked fine. I bought a metal QR2 for this GT wheel. I'm definitely going to get a nicer wheel for this base, just trying to decide. I kind of want to get a Clubsport formula V2.5 because I've never had a formula style wheel but it doesn't even come with clutch paddles like the GT or CSL Mclaren GT3 V2 so I might just get the Mclaren wheel and wait for something better to get a nicer formula style wheel. But that Podium GT World challenge wheel is looking very tasty to me! But for GT7 I definitely like all the buttons and directional stalks on the GT wheel. I just with they'd make a GT wheel like this but much nicer with a metal rim and leather and nicer buttons and shifters and everything. I doubt that will ever happen though.

@@bwx_gaming yeah sew the wheel rim is what's causing most of the issues which I knew from the start it would. The chip in the base for sony is the same as all the other chips in older ones so I knew that would work but with the new rims it can cause serious issues.

@@bwx_gaming I got the mclaren gt3 rim it may be plastic also but it somehow seems nicer the usability is amazing and it doesn't need as much power as the gt7 wheel rim does so aka less issues. At the moment. I suggest anybody with the dd+ just like the dd1 at first to only buy wheels with less lights on them that take less power so it minimizes the connection issues. Until the updates work things out which they will do. People just gotta remember fanatec takes forever for firmware. Also never ever do a new update until you see what others are saying about it.

I usually do run no TC actually, that was my first time trying that circuit experience full lap, it was 2nd gold lap in a row. If I wanted to drop time more I'd run TC off and maybe even weak ABS.

Great driving by the way ☝🏻👍🏻

@@Marcus___70s Thanks but I'd give that lap I did a 6.5 out of 10, objectively! Lot of mistakes and pretty slow! LOL. I think I could shave off 3 seconds if I hit more corners right.

Thanks! Sure, it's a "Dayton Audio SPA250 250 Watt Subwoofer Plate Amplifier" I have the two 4 ohm transducers wired in series to create an 8 ohm load on the amp. It can't be wired in parallel with those 4ohm transducers because that would create a 2 ohm load and overheat the amp. There's plenty of overhead and power.. You could probably get away with using a 100 watt amp which I have before but this 250 watt amp does work better. If they have 8 ohm transducers you could run them in parallel to create a 4 ohm load or use just one 4 ohm transducer or just one 8 ohm transducer. This setup works great though! I just use the bass RCA low level output passthrough from subwoofer. www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-SPA250-250-Watt-Subwoofer-Amplifier-300-803