Nobody cares about the airplane mechanic bs..

I drilled out as much of the top as i could with a 1/2" drll bit. It was amazing that the van could start and run at all with as far out of position the rotor to terminals were. As the timing chain set wears the camshaft & distributor retards but the primary trigger occurs at the crank position sensor. All cold start when wet problems are gone and no scanner tool was needed.

This is my first time , how would I adjust the the distributor to make it straight?

What did you adjust?

(there is a pending code for P1345, blank, diagnosed it and found that this code typically is related to excessive wear in the cam shaft, causing the timing to be incorrect, to correct this issue, he recommends replacing the cam as well as the timing chain components ) what’s the possibility about this being true?

Me uncle John told me how you saved him hundreds of 💵 asked if he said Thx 🙏🏻 said he didn’t know how lol. Thanks a lot 👌🏻 from uncle John🙏🏻

Excellent fix so eloquently explained!👍🏻🙏🏻

Awesome video i hope I still have my old distributor cap to try this

Many thanks, drilled a hole at #5, my spark over an inch long 13mm loosened the dist. Shortest spark, running great, we’ll see in a couple of days, thanks again

Just did this wonderful little trick on my 98' 2500 Chevy truck. Worked like a charm!

The as you call it "Distributor Sensor" and "Camshaft Sensor" are one in the same. The distributor runs off of a helical cut gear on the Cam and one at the end of the distributor. The Sensor inside the distributor ins the Camp Positioning Sensor. When you turn the distributor, it either moves toward the correct relation of: 0 angel, or +- 1 to +- 2, , or you move away from that. Away from that not only pulls a check engine lamp (DTC 1345), it will cause the engine to run rough, and if far enough off, to miss and pull a P0300 DTC, P0300 is "Random Misfire", and let me tell you, it causes all kinds of misfiring between cylinders. So you have the right idea, just terms mixed up a bit.

Im no expert auto mechanic but I've been around for some decades. That was the slickest trick I've ever seen. Doubt id ever use it but it's cool to know.

So you cut holes to adjust it? Lmao

That's just wut I needed.reminds me of watching my dad cutting the tops out of valve covers to adjust lifters.keeps oil from running out

That's just wut I needed.reminds me of watching my dad cutting the tops out of valve covers to adjust lifters.keeps oil from running out

So what part of that video had to do with showing you how to reset the timing ignition?

I dont see what you're adjusting. It's dark. Or are you saying take it off, cut 2 holes and put it back on.

I just made the panel hole on my 97 ext cab sierra today, I went with these exact dimensions Wow, worked out perfect, Thanks again!!!!

Thanks for the vid, your a smart man!!

Who was lighting a sparkle on 4th of July?

I work at a used truck dealership and any truck with a hole covered or patched in the truck bed is considered worthless until the bed is replaced. It severely devalues the truck. It is not difficult to tilt the bed to replace the fuel pump.

awesome info 👍👍 thanks

Thanks for the tip I will try

I got this code after changing my distributor, this method works. Just do and trust me. It worked for me perfectly after re dropping the distributor 6 times

Nice job but does anyone know what the measurements would be on a 1993 step side bed?? 🤔

great idea, worked perfectly on my 99 tahoe. thank you!

Yup! I thought my cheap Cap was too high or too much distance from the Rotor making arcing inside along with High/Low RPM miss-fires, but, noooooooo this makes sense, cleared my P1345 code and IS the trick for the miss-fires.**Right, the on board Computer makes the timing adjustments***Also, beware, I had some other trouble with a NEW Cap shorted between Number 2 and 4. Heads up; use only OEM Distributor Caps!!!Thank you☺

My 39 Chevy business coupe battery sits under the passenger side floor. Chevy made a hatch with a cover that go over the battery. With that being said, I see no problem in what you did, if it saves time and money its well worth it, Life is just too hard to worry over petty things, like a fuel pump under the truck bed.

I'm sorry to say it but, this isn't accurate information at all. The easiest way to replace the Distributor is very Simple. First; Remove the Cap and put a Mark on the Firewall EXACTLY where the Rotor is Pointing. You may have to Bump the Starter to get it pointing towards the Firewall. Second; Mark the Distributor Base and Intake Manifold so you can see and repeat it's Position. I actually made a hard plastic pointer that I used to Mark Exactly where the Cam Sensor was pointing to on the Firewall. Third; After you've made both Reference Marks, You can Remove the Distributor and Notice that the Rotor will rotate Counter Clockwise as you bring it Out because it will require the same position when the replacement goes In. You have to be Exactly where it was when you Removed it. If the Base won't Seat Completely, you may have to turn the Oil Pump shaft slightly for complete engagement. Notes; The actual overview is Simple. NEVER ROTATE THE CRANKSHAFT during this Change Out. When You think You're Finished, the Rotor must be Exactly in the same Position it was Originally. The Base must also be in the Same Position +/- 2 degrees @1000rpm. If not, a Code 1345 will Set. GOOD LUCK my Friends

this is full of bad info,it should say camshaft sensor & crank sensor correlation is off it will show a p1345 not a 1435,& keep workin on planes because there arent any garages in the sky. must be +/- 2* via a scan tool.

riddle me this though......if i have a 98 5.7 vortec inside my 88 truck with a edelbrock 4 barrel, an old school vaccum advanced distributor and no computer(odb1) at all WTF do i do?! lol....im breaking starter bolts and shit! i know its a timing issue but other than. pulling timing cover and chain so i can turn crank and cam to tdc and drop dizzy again how do i know its advancing right n shit......FML!

Thanks bud! Worked great for me. Cleared my light. I had to replace my timing chain and distributor cause mine was backfiring through the exhaust. For anyone that's having a rough running 5.7, before you buy the crank or cam sensors. Check the distributor gear and timing chain play.

just did this on a Isuzu

I really appreciate you trying to help but honestly for me it's really hard to try to understand what you are trying to say. I need to turn the distributor until the spark is vertical ( up and down) to what? from the front of engine to back by the firewall? or vertical from the rotor tip to the little posts inside the distributor cap? mine seems to be from left to right if I'm looking at it from the front of the engine

Set the engine to TDC on the compression stroke, install the distributor with the Rotor to the 6 position (triangle molded into the distributor) and button it up. Drilling holes invites faster contamination and premature corrosion of the contacts on the Rotor and cap...

Just take the bed off it easy don't destroy the integrity of your bed!

I appreciate this follow-up; I was unsure where to cut my hatch and your video helped quite a bit! I'll be cutting a hole in my bed today... hope you don't mind my ripping off your repeat-access ideas with the tubing and the rivets etc.! Yak? As in "Yaki-vegas"? If so, then I'm a mere fifty miles north of you... Again, thanks!

I got a 87 s10 that keeps stalling, I changed the fuel Lines, got the Throttlebody rebuild, gave it a tuneup, so assume its the fuel pump.

Wow good idea man, this is a way better solution.

will these measurements work on a 89 Silverado?

This is one way to do it Yak. We have invented a BedliftR tool that attaches to the frame and allows you to easily and safely side lift the bed to do fuel pump work on trucks without having to cut a hatch. You can watch video at www.tec-tools.com/home.html. It is shown on a lift, but the work can also be done on the ground as well. We are just going out to market now, so if you ever were interested in getting a demo model to test out, contact us. Thanks

my son did the same thing

Thanks. I'll give it a shot. I have access to a scan tool on base at the auto hobby shop. I should have done the job there in the first place!

How are you adjusting the distributor? I've been told the 5.7 Vortec in my '97 Suburban is not adjustable...

wow nice job excellent tip!!!

help we changed our fuel pump yesterday, we heard it kick on and the truck ran, but....this morning we went out and it won't start, it just cranks over and we are not hearing the pump kick on

could be your relay to your pump mike

since I'm new to this I have a dumb question. what are you doing to adjust he rotor. I get the lights have to be align but how do u make them align? I bumbed the engine a few times to get the sensor out now it won't start. I'm assuming my timing is wayyyyyy off.

My Chevy 3500 flat bed is like this.

Спасибо за опыт, надеюсь в моей ситуации он так же будет положителен.