P1345 set timing WITHOUT a scanner - easy fix

Fine adjust distributor visually

[@bryanwoods1351]

Your video really helped out. I couldn't get the cap to turn CCW to align the spark so I pulled the distributor and found the gear was worn thin. Replaced it and set back in. Cut my holes in a old cap, used a digital timing light to get my RPM's around 1100. Got the spark right across from each other. Runs perfect and DTC's went away. Made a holiday trip from PA to IN enjoyable with no worries. Thanks

[@jasonbaill7048]

Many thanks, drilled a hole at #5, my spark over an inch long 13mm loosened the dist. Shortest spark, running great, we’ll see in a couple of days, thanks again

[@rogerlimoseth4790]

Im no expert auto mechanic but I've been around for some decades. That was the slickest trick I've ever seen. Doubt id ever use it but it's cool to know.

[@donaldlynn2615]

That's just wut I needed.reminds me of watching my dad cutting the tops out of valve covers to adjust lifters.keeps oil from running out

[@Donaticus]

Just did this wonderful little trick on my 98' 2500 Chevy truck. Worked like a charm!

[@darrickchapman3148]

I got this code after changing my distributor, this method works. Just do and trust me. It worked for me perfectly after re dropping the distributor 6 times

[@trickywoo5165]

Me uncle John told me how you saved him hundreds of 💵 asked if he said Thx 🙏🏻 said he didn’t know how lol. Thanks a lot 👌🏻 from uncle John🙏🏻

[@markschmalenberger8301]

I drilled out as much of the top as i could with a 1/2" drll bit. It was amazing that the van could start and run at all with as far out of position the rotor to terminals were. As the timing chain set wears the camshaft & distributor retards but the primary trigger occurs at the crank position sensor. All cold start when wet problems are gone and no scanner tool was needed.

[@williamm.holdridge7165]

Thanks bud! Worked great for me. Cleared my light. I had to replace my timing chain and distributor cause mine was backfiring through the exhaust. For anyone that's having a rough running 5.7, before you buy the crank or cam sensors. Check the distributor gear and timing chain play.

[@keys2.0]

Can the p1345 code or the issue you described in your post cause my 99 yukon to stall at idle. I cant give it any gas without it stalling out.

[@edcrabb]

The as you call it "Distributor Sensor" and "Camshaft Sensor" are one in the same. The distributor runs off of a helical cut gear on the Cam and one at the end of the distributor. The Sensor inside the distributor ins the Camp Positioning Sensor. When you turn the distributor, it either moves toward the correct relation of: 0 angel, or +- 1 to +- 2, , or you move away from that. Away from that not only pulls a check engine lamp (DTC 1345), it will cause the engine to run rough, and if far enough off, to miss and pull a P0300 DTC, P0300 is "Random Misfire", and let me tell you, it causes all kinds of misfiring between cylinders. So you have the right idea, just terms mixed up a bit.

[@seriously3130]

Excellent fix so eloquently explained!👍🏻🙏🏻

[@matts3539]

Worked like a charm! I also had to do the intake gasket and after I put the distributor back in the timing was just a little bit off. This fixed it on the first try. Thank you for the tip

[@estebanhernandez5843]

Awesome video i hope I still have my old distributor cap to try this

[@witnesszer0]

wow nice job excellent tip!!!

[@andreymanakov7313]

Спасибо за опыт, надеюсь в моей ситуации он так же будет положителен.

[@jnreedy]

great idea, worked perfectly on my 99 tahoe. thank you!

[@exhilarationaccelerationpo9082]

Yup! I thought my cheap Cap was too high or too much distance from the Rotor making arcing inside along with High/Low RPM miss-fires, but, noooooooo this makes sense, cleared my P1345 code and IS the trick for the miss-fires.**Right, the on board Computer makes the timing adjustments***Also, beware, I had some other trouble with a NEW Cap shorted between Number 2 and 4. Heads up; use only OEM Distributor Caps!!!Thank you☺

[@paulsthormes251]

Thanks for the tip I will try

[@dryalss78]

awesome info 👍👍 thanks

[@MrBowNaxe]

Thanks. I'll give it a shot. I have access to a scan tool on base at the auto hobby shop. I should have done the job there in the first place!

[@yak55x]

Well a scanner....sure if you want to take all the hassle and frustration out of it :) I miss the USAF auto shop.

[@jamesfoberson]

I've replaced a bunch of these distributors without having to reset the correlation (proper prep and dis-assembling after many years of experience). This time however I rushed it! Going to try your method. Thanks!

[@yak55x]

I marked the distributor before I took it off but I guess I didn't get it close enough. Little bugger. I'm learning though.

[@Jorodriguezable]

friend with a transparent cover what I have to do is with the car ignition spark remains as straight as possible on the spark plug cable termina

[@erniemedina5284]

This is my first time , how would I adjust the the distributor to make it straight?

[@jesushchrist4581]

So what part of that video had to do with showing you how to reset the timing ignition?

[@josephsilva1152]

hola a todos que puedo hacer tengo el p1545 en un audi a4 98 s4 arranca bien pero al pasar de las 1500 rpm cabezea el motor

[@denimkratos4010]

Who was lighting a sparkle on 4th of July?

[@aaronsudbeck1151]

What did you adjust?

[@Mr26Huffy]

Thanks for this video. When you say "vertical" you mean the spark is @12 o'clock for number five cylinder cap pin? So essentially you are shooting for the shortest distance for the spark for number 5 cylinder? Thanks again.

[@yak55x]

Mr26Huffy All the spark angles will be the same. It's just when the electrodes in the distributor are lined up vertically, It's hard to see in my video but if you search for the "Vortec clear distributor cap" video you can see how the angle changes with RPM.. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nGrXm52urqqhmLs

[@em3rge1]

since I'm new to this I have a dumb question. what are you doing to adjust he rotor. I get the lights have to be align but how do u make them align? I bumbed the engine a few times to get the sensor out now it won't start. I'm assuming my timing is wayyyyyy off.

[@yak55x]

+em3rge1 There's a nut at the bottom of the distributor where it goes into the case. It's easiest to get a distributor wrench to be able to get at it, but you might be able to get it without one. You just loosen that, and then you can twist the distributor to fine tune the optimal gap. But, if it's way out - mine was too - you need to get the number 1 cylinder at top dead center on the compression stroke and then have the distributor close enough so it will be firing that cylinder ( front right looking from in front ). There are some videos out there on that. It's not hard, you just need a better explanation than I can write. I took the fan shroud off so I could turn the engine with a socket.

[@m.anthonyrivera5202]

What do you mean by "adjust it to where it's vertical?" DO you mean turn the dist until the spark appears in the left hole?

[@yak55x]

It's hard to see in the video but if you see the video with the guy with the clear distributor cap it makes sense. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nGrXm52urqqhmLs You can see more clearly in his video that at idle the spark is at a steep angle from the little prongs the spark jumps to. If you go just above idle about 1000 rpm, and adjust your distributor so the sparks are straight up and down at that RPM it should clear the 1345 code and keep the motor running smoothly.

[@yusnierernan8746]

M. Rivera dromedario

[@chrisvill54]

I really appreciate you trying to help but honestly for me it's really hard to try to understand what you are trying to say. I need to turn the distributor until the spark is vertical ( up and down) to what? from the front of engine to back by the firewall? or vertical from the rotor tip to the little posts inside the distributor cap? mine seems to be from left to right if I'm looking at it from the front of the engine

[@yak55x]

Yes, from the rotor point to the little contact posting on the cap. At about 1000 rpm.

[@yak55x]

It's easier to see in this guy's video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nGrXm52urqqhmLs. If you adjust the distributor so the spark is vertical at about 1000 rpm it generally works to get the code to clear.

[@chrisvill54]

thanks for replying I really appreciate it. so I was watching the video with the clear cap and the thing I notice is in the beginning when he revs it up the Spark changes on all post vertically like you said. so I'm assuming I have to try to do that at 1000 rpm by rotating the distributor? if that's the case I think I have to take the distributor out again because I can't turn it anymore.

[@MrBowNaxe]

How are you adjusting the distributor? I've been told the 5.7 Vortec in my '97 Suburban is not adjustable...

[@yak55x]

The timing isn't adjustable, but the distributor is to get the gap right and make sure the spark is going to the right cylinder. Use a GM distributor wrench which is bent to get around to the base of the distributor and loosen the nut a little. Then the distributor will turn 20 or 30 degrees in each direction. There are some other videos about adjusting the distributor that are pretty good. Eventually, well when it cools of below 90 around here I'll try to post one. :)

[@calvinlayport3127]

Yes it is adjustable IV got a 96 vortec the distributor had been replaced and they couldn't get it to run right I thought it needed from one to two shift solenoid but it seemed to fix the problem when I got it in time took me a little while to figure out about the dis cap wish I'd seen this video a long time ago people wouldn't of thought I was crazy for cutti g holes all over my cap lol glad they couldn't get it right they said they were turning it into a drag truck because it was fast I knew they were full of bull shit because iv owned fast trucks and cars and had several cars that would smoke this Silverados ass but I gotta say iv only had one or two trucks that would take it and those were not stock motors I was shocked it has a lot of power to be stock and tall gears to boot 308s last thing getting changed is them to at least 373 maybe 392 should have the injection system done today so now it's more of a multiport fuel injected instead of them popet valves at the end of the fuel line now injectors are at the intake valves should be a improvement Next thing is a tranny shift tune and go from there lol

[@alexis_1503]

(there is a pending code for P1345, blank, diagnosed it and found that this code typically is related to excessive wear in the cam shaft, causing the timing to be incorrect, to correct this issue, he recommends replacing the cam as well as the timing chain components ) what’s the possibility about this being true?

[@dodgeplow]

it could be the gear on the distributor or the cam (they mesh together), stretched timing chain, the sensor in the distributor, or wiring.

[@doodah2475]

I dont see what you're adjusting. It's dark. Or are you saying take it off, cut 2 holes and put it back on.

[@samuellopez7313]

hey gays tengo un problema si alguien puede alludarme chevy express 2001 vortec motor 5.7 como regular el tiempo sin escaner porque no tengo me marca codigo p1345

[@scanhector3870]

Buscate un mecanico de 300 pesos para arriba.

[@dr2087]

It would of have been more helpfel if you would to show how you adjusted the distributor....Did you start the car and loosen up the housing and turn the distributor clockwise or counterclockwise and raised RPM's 1000 or over ? Please help I don't really want to take it to the shop and have them adjusted they want to charge me 150 bucks just for the adjustment..on the Haynes manual it says to take it to a dealer or certified auto mechanic shop....????

[@Cyruscosmo]

yes all adjustments are done at 1000 RPMs or a bit over. and yes the distributor was loosened and turned either clockwise or counter clockwise depending on which way yours is out of adjustment.

[@dr2087]

Thanks for the reply but I got it up and running

[@prestonwilson6007]

So you cut holes to adjust it? Lmao

[@israeljacinto9052]

Tengo un problema con una Troca borterc5.7 canvie los Gasset del intec porque estaba liqeando agua y ora corre y se apaga el tiempo es ta bien no seme marca el código p1345

[@yak55x]

Israel Jacinto Tuve lo mismo problema.

[@israeljacinto9052]

Yo ya solucione el problema

[@israeljacinto9052]

Checa q este bien el tiempo y si esta bien va ser el cranchaf sensor

[@bucjackson]

Israel Jacinto Como puedo checar el tiempo en una Blazer 96? A mi me aparecio de repente el p1345. Prende al llavaso cuando esta fria, pero ya que la e usado por un rato batalla para arrancar y pierde fuerza cuando llega a la mitad de la temperatura.

[@israeljacinto9052]

Ya v Canviastes el cran sensor va pegado ala polea por abajo de la polea grande

[@ryrylewis6482]

riddle me this though......if i have a 98 5.7 vortec inside my 88 truck with a edelbrock 4 barrel, an old school vaccum advanced distributor and no computer(odb1) at all WTF do i do?! lol....im breaking starter bolts and shit! i know its a timing issue but other than. pulling timing cover and chain so i can turn crank and cam to tdc and drop dizzy again how do i know its advancing right n shit......FML!

[@yak55x]

is that the only way to turn yours by hand? I can get to the front pulley on mine. Sounds like you know how to get to TDC on number 1 already. No computer = good ol timing strobe light to me. TDC on #1 on compression stroke, make sure distributor has the gears lined up so it contacts the number 1 pin on the distributor and then fine tune with a timing light. There's still timing marks on a Vortec. That's what I would do anyway. Again, I'm not a car mechanic, I'm an airplane mechanic :)

[@SedatedByLife]

Set the engine to TDC on the compression stroke, install the distributor with the Rotor to the 6 position (triangle molded into the distributor) and button it up. Drilling holes invites faster contamination and premature corrosion of the contacts on the Rotor and cap...

[@yak55x]

I did say to replace the cap afterwards with a new one. Setting the distributor to TDC is also in the instructions.

[@pdjohnson5533]

I'm sorry to say it but, this isn't accurate information at all. The easiest way to replace the Distributor is very Simple. First; Remove the Cap and put a Mark on the Firewall EXACTLY where the Rotor is Pointing. You may have to Bump the Starter to get it pointing towards the Firewall. Second; Mark the Distributor Base and Intake Manifold so you can see and repeat it's Position. I actually made a hard plastic pointer that I used to Mark Exactly where the Cam Sensor was pointing to on the Firewall. Third; After you've made both Reference Marks, You can Remove the Distributor and Notice that the Rotor will rotate Counter Clockwise as you bring it Out because it will require the same position when the replacement goes In. You have to be Exactly where it was when you Removed it. If the Base won't Seat Completely, you may have to turn the Oil Pump shaft slightly for complete engagement. Notes; The actual overview is Simple. NEVER ROTATE THE CRANKSHAFT during this Change Out. When You think You're Finished, the Rotor must be Exactly in the same Position it was Originally. The Base must also be in the Same Position +/- 2 degrees @1000rpm. If not, a Code 1345 will Set. GOOD LUCK my Friends

[@yak55x]

PD Johnson this wasn't a distributor replacement video. It's a distributor adjustment without a scanner video.

[@pdjohnson5533]

I assumed that was the Mission because that is the main reason for firing a Code1345 (Shaft Wear) or any repair that requires removing the Intake. I didn't intent to sound the way I did. I was just trying to mention the way to do it made simple

[@yak55x]

I had to replace the intake gaskets so the whole intake manifold had to come off and I replaced it due to a crack. So my mark, even though I copied it as close as I could on the new one, it wasn't within +- 1 degree. A lot of people have the same issue even when not replacing the manifold.

[@pdjohnson5533]

I made a Plastic Pointer that would lay on top of the Cam Sensor Socket with a small hole for the Locking Catch to protrude through. This allowed me to Point it and Mark the Firewall. In the End, I had two Marks on my Firewall. I tell you what, Buddy it's Spot-On Perfect. when I gave it some thought, the tolerance of " +/- 2 "degrees from Zero is a four degree window. FYI, I made a similar Plastic Pointer for the Rotor too. Between my Buddies and self, we share anything we discover that makes life a little easier! I Enjoyed our chat

[@idecidenotyou]

Nobody cares about the airplane mechanic bs..

[@stevemitchell4871]

this is full of bad info,it should say camshaft sensor & crank sensor correlation is off it will show a p1345 not a 1435,& keep workin on planes because there arent any garages in the sky. must be +/- 2* via a scan tool.

[@exhilarationaccelerationpo9082]

You missed the whole point.

[@scanhector3870]

Planes only have one chance. Cars not ha ha ha

[@trickywoo5165]

@@exhilarationaccelerationpo9082 ✅ exactly

[@donaldlynn2615]

That's just wut I needed.reminds me of watching my dad cutting the tops out of valve covers to adjust lifters.keeps oil from running out

[@dodgeplow]

I kept one like for valve lash adjustment