has to be near the firewall & throttle body area.. don't know exactly

yes, it has to be in service mode to compress the piston.. it actually disengages the parking brake motor

that's why I said "ish"

I have a trailer parts wholesaler in Indianapolis that I buy from. I am sure that's where I got them but it's been a while now.. 2 years I think. Waymire Distribution is their name, thet slso retail.. perhaps they can direct you 317-631-7551. Good luck

yep.. it happens

@Colton595 the newer 4.6 doesn't have that tube you speak of.. the manifold extends way down into the valley and no room anyway

I had to google that.. I guess it works the same. I like this method because it constantly renews itself & doesn't damage the wheels

I have always just run the hub nut (bearing preload) to zero end play. If the hub nut has slots for a keyway, as this one does... I come to zero end play, observe the nearest keyway slot, be it tighter or looser, and turn the nut to that position. I have never had issues with that method. If it isn't a keyway, maybe you have the two-nut jam-nut type.. go to zero end play, put your washer with the slot in place, install & torque the jam nut & fold over the washer over the nut flats.. there's even the style with the inner nut that has a pin on it. Get your pre-load, install your lock washer & observe the pin alignment in those holes. If it doesn't align, remove the washer & flip it over & reinstall.. usually with that, a hole will line up. If not, select the side that closest aligns the pin, rotate the inner nut rt or lf, install the washer & torque the jam nut

that is insane! This was my daughter's car & I paid for the parts. I don't remember now how much but I doubt it was over $100 & it was an OEM Ford part

I don't think so.. however, I think the parking brake is too narrow, really doesn't hold the truck & the rear brake pads don't contact enough of the rotor braking surface. lost stopping power

I have installed probably 50 of them with zero issues

@darylsparks-sparksautomoti6066 great thanks. I'm new to these plastic things. When I took it out of the box it felt chinesey.

@tonyfoxxbuilds1920 it's probably a Dorman product if not a genuine Ford product.. I agree, they feel/look cheap but all in all, a reliable product. Many curse and say never but the OEM part is about 3x the $ and again, I have yet to have an issue... however, they come 1 part # for a few year applications.. on the pass side rear, there's a water outlet nipple that's also plastic, molded into the whole assembly.. if your vehicle uses a separate pipe, it's for the heater core, as I recall, you'll need to cap off that nipple. They supply a rubber cap/plug.. It's junk. Go to parts store and get one that is beefier and make sure to clamp snug, squarely & fully below the barb on the nipple or it'll come off

I replaced mine on a 2019. the truck in this video is not mine. I don't really understand why it is that the new part has to be programmed but it is sorta necessary. I say that because it already has the old part driver info. It's not like plugging in an old 3157 light bulb & you're done.. somehow, it needs an 'digital key' for it to function 100% correct. I did not know how to program when I did mine but it was running terrible so I replaced it.. Immediately, it ran better, without programming. I did figure out how to do it a few days later but there was no issue at all driving. Would that be the case every time? Good question. You need a good diagnostic scan tool to do it though. Now aday, I wonder if a guy can get an interface for the vehicle DLC connector that bluetooth connects to your phone, download an app and have at it... I am not an IT guy at all but I know people have apps on their phone that reads their codes but that's not enough btw, the injectors are not difficult to change on these as long as nothing's in the way

that's the air conditioning belt only lol

there's only 1 accessory drive belt & I did replace it

plastic manifold seems cheap.. that's why they use them & they're lighter. Gets mpg up & cost of production way down. I don't prefer them myself

I got the manifold from a vendor who is actually permanently closed so I don't know

Thank you so much sir

coolant manifold or intake?

it is low access for sure

be a good idea to let it soak in a bath of brake fluid before attempting anything if it's been empty for a good while. Don't use petroleum in the resevoir areas because you might not get it all out & it will cause a problem later

I already did the other side

it's a common occurrence

the discs I use are 3m rol-loc brown in color but the typical DIY guy doesn't have air equipment, etc., so I would suggest 400 grit wet sand paper on a block of wood or scuff pads of some sort

It's not as bad as you say.. I think the Cadillac V8 is worse.. up front & underneath

Did you change the switch or the lock cylinder?

Lock cylinder

@@GospelEars if the cylinder is fully engaged, see if you're getting power through the switch to the starter relay. That information will help direct you further

So are you saying tap the starter I really appreciate you by the way

@GospelEars no.. find the starter relay in the fuse box... have someone turn the key to the start position & listen see if the starter relay clicks when the key is rotated to start position.. do this repeatedly a few times to confirm the clicking. If it does, there is no problem at the steering column, it would be from the relay on down or low battery voltage

no, I had the jack under it because I had the wheel off

I don't remember now. Why

humility is a great coach.. sometimes, don't focus on all the crap surrounding the component you're after.. rather, that component & it's easiest path.. and, if all else, tannerite

🤣🤣🤣

find out what cylinder is misfiring, if you can. If it's only 1 cylinder, you can't have mismatched coil or injector connectors or there'd be 2 cylinders misfiring.. Relocate 1 coil with another & see if the misfire follows the coil..

make sure injector & coil connectors are secure & on the correct unit.. not crossed. Also, if the coil/plug boot set on the spark plug correctly.. then a possible vacuum leak