It’s been fine… maybe it’s mellowed a bit. I haven’t needed to install the longer mufflers, anyways. I’m in the middle of putting a 360 in it, so I’ll post an update when it’s running!

@@welderseries awesome! Thanks man - I appreciate the content

It’s not a cast housing, so I didn’t do anything special. Thanks!

Thanks for asking… they’re designed to be universal fit and can be trimmed to be mounted in most any frame.

They’re about in the middle of the driveshaft. I left room to run the longer HP-2 mufflers if I needed to, but I haven’t felt it’s too loud. I’m using Gibson headers, and no crossover pipe.

It'll click for you one of these times! Keep practicing!

Thanks! I call it the "DW Flick". No actually I didn't even know I did that until I watched this video. I think the reasoning behind it has to do with reducing the amount of lateral movement of the filler rod. It should only be feeding towards the puddle, not side to side. The more it moves side to side, the more likely it is that you'll touch the tungsten with it. So by "choking up" the filler with my thumb, I keep it steady and in line with my fingers, which are closer to the puddle.

Thanks!

Thanks.

I hope you haven't been sweating in your car for six years! As a small manufacturer, I take your comment seriously because if a bunch of people said the same thing about our parts, I'd be looking for some other way to feed my kids. As a consumer, I get it - you want the least expensive, acceptable solution. If you were asking for advice, I'd say that at the end of your build, you probably won't notice the difference on your bottom line between these fittings and whatever you're able to source directly from China. @vintageair has been around "forever", and if you have a problem with something, you can call them and they'll help you. Maybe a bit long-winded on my part, but I'll support Vintage Air whenever I can.

I don’t wear glasses but I don’t think there is room for them… the helmet sits just off my nose. Maybe someone bespectacled can chime in?

Yes, they get welded in place. Sorry I left that point out :)

Tack Upholstery from near Toronto did the seat. He's very talented and it's probably the nicest thing on the truck!

Sorry, we don't sell our CAD drawings.

Thanks for your comment. They’re just the standard EZcrimp pliers. I’ve also used pex pliers- they have a small pointed contact point.

Hi Cliff, it's been done for a few years now - still works great!

Thanks for your comment. I don't remember a single factor that pushed me to the triangulated kit - I usually say to guys on the fence between the two that I'm not a good enough driver to notice the difference on the roads I drive. I ran the exhaust under the axle, which should be a consideration - the upper bars can be in the way of the exhaust (but so can the Panhard bar). My exhaust has a sleeved connection point just ahead of the axle, so it's easy to take apart if I need to drop the axle.

We’re about an hour west of Toronto Ontario.

Thanks for that!

We have a 2-5/8" wide kit and a 3-3/8" wide kit. How wide are your frame rails?

I'd check with Ridetech.

@@welderseries who’s that lol

@@juanmoreno5187 They make the Shockwaves. www.ridetech.com