28 күн бұрын
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@hamadamohamedali9098 2 күн бұрын
What is the Android version of your phone? Because my temple is not working on Android 14. Please answer me
@TasteTheCode 2 күн бұрын
When I did this I think it was on version 13. There were some changes added to BLE in v14 but I don't know exactly what. I think you need to add something to the android manifest manually to enable it.
@circuitdotlt 2 күн бұрын
This is motion detection, not presence.
@TasteTheCode 2 күн бұрын
The sensor will detect you even if you are stationary.
@circuitdotlt 2 күн бұрын
@TasteTheCode tried it. Not really. It's still based on motion, even if tiny one.
@TasteTheCode 2 күн бұрын
You get two values, one if a motion and another if just presence is detected. Even if someone is sleeping in the room, you can know.
@markvanderburg2947 3 күн бұрын
Hey, can this use MQTT?
@TasteTheCode 3 күн бұрын
Yes you will need to add the mqtt logic in the microcontroller and based on that instruct the module.
@richieb9675 5 күн бұрын
Nice video 👍 could you please tell me whats the gray dots are, it looks like kit? What is it called? I want to put it in my Playstation psu as well to dampen noise.
@TasteTheCode 5 күн бұрын
I'm not exactly sure what it is or how it is called. It is some sort of silicone glue that keeps components from moving.
@Roobotics 6 күн бұрын
5:30 Just build the vise-base out first, then you don't need to find any clamps, it can clamp itself! Also it would ensure the surfaces get glued as parallel as they can be. Also I'd try and get a screw with a more course spacing, as that is going to take too long to open/close to feel readily practical IMO, or maybe some way to make a DIY split-nut that can be disengaged.
@TasteTheCode 5 күн бұрын
Thanks. There is enough play in the entire vise where it is forgiving if it is not that parallel, but using the vise as clamp is a nice suggestion. As for the screw, this is the only thing I could find locally. It is not ideal but will do for now.
@Roobotics 5 күн бұрын
@TasteTheCode it's understandable, I noticed it was a general complaint a few others made on the model. An M8 leadscrew wouldn't fit as-is, but I do wonder if it could clamp things without being back-driven and loosening up. As it's a very ubiquitous size of hardware used in many 3d printers.
@ayams02 6 күн бұрын
Great work! I think it needs some weight so it won't go anywhere
@TasteTheCode 6 күн бұрын
Yes but I still haven't figured out how to do it. My best idea so far is to add some metal plate at the bottom.
@afberglund2764 9 күн бұрын
So can I take a photo with esp32-cam and send 500 meters?
@TasteTheCode 9 күн бұрын
Lora is not intended for such high data transfers. If you split it up, and send it on intervals, I guess it can be done but definitely not what it was designed to do.
@afberglund2764 9 күн бұрын
@TasteTheCode guess it's wifibroadcast I should try again. Didn't work properly when I tried some months ago.
@TasteTheCode 9 күн бұрын
You mean wifi long range? I haven't tried it but for 500 meters, I think you can also use some directional antennas if you have line of sight.
@godfreyzahra5311 9 күн бұрын
can i replace a power supply of output of 5.2v - 2.1A - 10.92w with one of output of 5v - 2.4A - 12w
@TasteTheCode 9 күн бұрын
Yes you can.
@nikkam3176 12 күн бұрын
hi, nice video. Thank you. I have shockwave sw290 but cant find the remote, so i will try your solution. Do you think it will work using your codes?
@TasteTheCode 12 күн бұрын
No idea. Give it a go. If it doesn't work then try searching for the codes for other manufacturers and standards and try them.
@nikkam3176 12 күн бұрын
@@TasteTheCode will be nice to do a video on how to transmit (encode with nec protocol) using esp32 or other microcontroller.
@nikkam3176 12 күн бұрын
@@TasteTheCode will be interesting to extract the codes directly from the chip of the surround system receiver.
@idramirezs 14 күн бұрын
🙏 HLK-LD1125H-24G please for ESP32 idramirezs
@TasteTheCode 14 күн бұрын
This should be exactly as shown in the video. It as well uses serial communication.
@vlonetyler5561 17 күн бұрын
Hey man, I need your help if that is okay. I have a MEGABOOM 3 made by UE which after being exposed to water has stopped working. I was under the impression this speaker was water proof, as I have had it under water with no issues before. They also advertise this as a feature in their main selling point. The speaker still turns on, connects to my phone and charges. However, the speaker plays no sound at all. When it first was submerged the music was still playing but the sound was "staticky" and not clear at all. After letting it sit to dry off it then did not have any sound at all. Please let me know if you know what I can do to fix this, or what is the problem for this. I was told by UE they don't do repairs and they said their best offer was a 15% discount, so I am stuck outsourcing for a repair as I don't want to completely replace it. I feel it is a waste. Thank you in advance!
@TasteTheCode 17 күн бұрын
I'm not familiar with that specific model but when devices get water damaged, what usually happens is that they develop corrosion on the board. To inspect and possibly mitigate this, you will need to disassemble the speaker and look for areas with discoloration and green oxidation. This can be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol that is at least 96%. If there is no damage to the circuit, the speaker might start working again but this is not guaranteed.
@alexborr1746 18 күн бұрын
1300 likes 15 dislikes is a crazy rating
@TasteTheCode 18 күн бұрын
👍
@Carl-Camera 18 күн бұрын
Really helpful for my LCD1602 screen, thank you!
@TasteTheCode 18 күн бұрын
You're welcome!
@ddistrbd1 20 күн бұрын
It's all good ,the only drawback to this mod is, you have bypassed the memory from zero position, what I mean is, now if you open the caliper and then turn it on ,it will show zero from that open position( and not from original/closed jaw position) but this can also be a very useful feature. great mod.
@TasteTheCode 20 күн бұрын
Thanks for pointing that out. I wasn't aware that it is even a feature. I was thinking that it resets on each power on. In any case, I usually reset it anyway after I turn it on so it makes no difference for usability.
@najafstar 21 күн бұрын
Good for remotcontrol 🎉
@TasteTheCode 19 күн бұрын
Yes, indeed.
@HiteshPatel-p7u 21 күн бұрын
dear sir i m using HLK-LD2020 basic model cant work so you can help me on code with arduino uno board .but now i m testing with esp32 .everting is ok like wiring with esp32 but the error is "Failed to communicate with the sensor "
@TasteTheCode 19 күн бұрын
Hey, I'm not aware of LD2020 version. A common mistake is to not have Rx nad Tx reversed on the board so please check that and also make sure to use correct pin numbers or GPIO numbers.
@TheDiabeticWay 21 күн бұрын
Its easier to just use a plug and have to plug go into Home Assistant, fill the kettle up set your timers and leave the switch on the kettle to on. The then turns your kettle on without doing all that work. and works on most cheap kettle been using mine 5 years now!
@TasteTheCode 21 күн бұрын
Yes true that, but there is little learning opportunity that way. By knowing how it is done from scratch, you have the ability to customize the solution when you have a specific need or requirements.
@TheDiabeticWay 17 күн бұрын
@@TasteTheCode I have a lot more of a need for companies to not lock out what can be done with medical devices to keep people alive how they would like to be kept alive can you hack a Omnipod 5 so I can keep alive?
@TasteTheCode 17 күн бұрын
@@TheDiabeticWay Medical devices are on a whole different level than what we do with hobby projects. It is a big business where companies spend billions on R&D to make sure their products work as designed. Hacking or messing with them is only viable as a learning opportunity.
@iFiXyou 23 күн бұрын
tell me if it throws me out of the game, if I play for 30 minutes and the xbox x freezes and turns off. is this a problem with the power supply?
@TasteTheCode 23 күн бұрын
I'm not an Xbox expert but I guess not. It sounds more like an overheating issue.
@stephennoska5851 25 күн бұрын
Great idea. I plan on using this method to measure the amount of chicken feed and water (in their respective containers) for our chickens. I will use the waterproof sensor (JSN-SRT04T) instead since they are outside. I use HA to control the coop door and the chicken run door so this fits my ecosystem perfectly. Thanks for including the code.
@TasteTheCode 25 күн бұрын
Thanks! Let me know how it goes. I also made a version with a laser distance measuring sensor (VL53L0X) and it works much better, a lot less noise. This is the video on it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fKS0eJhsjb2Yh6c
@najam121 26 күн бұрын
can you tell me how to increase its current ? I have these dfferent led drivers but all have max current of 120mah but I have 12v 12w led which requires more current, so currently it glows but very dim. Thanks
@TasteTheCode 26 күн бұрын
The output current is controlled via some resistors on the board but you will need to find a datasheet for the specific IC on your driver. However, I will strongly advice against this. These drivers are already set on their maximum limits from the factory and pushing them even further is just a recipe for disaster! Find the right driver for the light you have!
@najam121 25 күн бұрын
@@TasteTheCode Thanks for responding
@chaos.corner 26 күн бұрын
I think you're likely to run into issues with those buttons being knocked off. The thin wires being exposed are likely to lead to issues too. The principle is sound though.
@TasteTheCode 26 күн бұрын
Well it is an experiment and that is why I added some glue to the wires as well on the outside to prevent them from breaking. In any case even of they break, I can always repair them.
@endotherm 25 күн бұрын
That's what hot melt glue is for 😀. Encapsulate everything in glue so it doesn't get knocked off.
@chaos.corner 26 күн бұрын
Battery quality can help. I bought some good silver chemistry batteries and the one has been lasting a long time. Unfortunately, it's a crapshoot out there now with many substandards for sale. Name brands might help a bit but I've seen a lot of variation even there.
@TasteTheCode 26 күн бұрын
Yup true that. For the last 2~3 years, I'm sticking to coin cells from IKEA and they seem to be decent balance of price/quality.
@AdaptingCamera 26 күн бұрын
...or get a better caliper. I have one which chews one battery each morning to breakfast. Got tired of it and bought a more expensive one, and the battery in that one lasts for several years and I use it daily. By the way, these calipers are NOT magnetic, they are capacitive. You wrongly speak about "magnetic reference" at: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nHK2gJ-im7mpaassi=WxL225uhtnadr-yB&t=736 but there is no such thing in these calipers. The stripes etched into the PCB are capacitive sensors.
@TasteTheCode 26 күн бұрын
Hey thanks for pointing that out. I assumed that since the values were all over the place but now I know ;)
@weekendwarrior7080 26 күн бұрын
would have tried a little NC reed contact and a magnet in the box, so whenever the caliper is placed in the box, the magnet opens the reed contact and the battery disconnected. but that's just what i would try, for now i still stick to the remove-battery-when-not-in-use methode 😉
@zeno2712 26 күн бұрын
I was about to say much the same but when I scrolled down to the comments I saw you had beaten me to it! But I think your suggestion is far better than my idea: I was thinking of using the magnet and reed switch to switch it on when the magnet is in place but there would need to be some way of holding the magnet in place when using the calipers - your method avoids that. Having said that, I don't have a box for my calipers, so I'd need to find some way around that.
@TasteTheCode 26 күн бұрын
That is a cool idea. There is plenty of space in the box to accommodate the magnet. Thanks!
@TasteTheCode 26 күн бұрын
You can place the magnet in whatever holder that you might make. If you hang it on the wall, there can be magnet just behind or even the entire holder can be magnetic.
@hugbearsx4 27 күн бұрын
The black one seems to have some kind of data connection above the battery. Does anyone know what's up with that and if it can be used in any way, shape or form?
@TasteTheCode 26 күн бұрын
I know that there are some that can function as a Bluetooth keyboard to input the value from screen but this is not it. I was thinking that it might be some programming header.
@hugbearsx4 25 күн бұрын
@@TasteTheCode Thanks!
@johnmolnar2957 27 күн бұрын
they should be made with a positive off , but having said that, I will just keep on doing as I do, pull the battery, flip it upside down and close it up till next time.
@TasteTheCode 26 күн бұрын
The outside of the CR2032 is the positive, so that is what I'm switching. Flipping the battery is ok if you only use the calipers once in a while. We might need them several times during the day so flipping it all the time is not viable. Maybe at the end of day but it is easy to forget it.
@paradiselost9946 27 күн бұрын
calipers are that low tolerance and used that often they dont get a box around here... only the precision stuff gets a box. and no point getting a second mortgage for calipers, either. mid range is adequate for how theyre supposed to be used. it also doesnt hurt so much if you drop them. cheap sets are just that... cheap. but the electronics DO come in handy for the odd time the 'proper" ones get water damage, heat stroke, broken screens, etc... i think ive replaced the internals three times on the current set. which are mito's that i found in the bin due to the broken screen... angle, height, and other rarely used gauges... just pull the battery out and make sure theres always one in stock... then again, ive found myself digging out the CMOS battery from teh PC at 2AM, lol.
@TasteTheCode 26 күн бұрын
Oh, so you replace the electronics on the good calipers with ones from a cheaper model? They are compatible?
@paradiselost9946 26 күн бұрын
@@TasteTheCode some are, some arent. most of the ones i open up, everything, including mounting holes, is the same. if it was a cr2032, then find ones that also are. if its lr44, ditto.
@TasteTheCode 26 күн бұрын
@@paradiselost9946 Cool, thanks! That is a nice thing to know in case they get damaged.
@endotherm 27 күн бұрын
The switch probably failed because it wicked some superglue inside.
@TasteTheCode 26 күн бұрын
It is possible but it locked once even before I installed it. Anyways, I like the slide one better to be honest and I even consider replacing the latching switch on the other one as well.
@stevekgoodwin 27 күн бұрын
Nice! I did something similar to my multimeter, added a backlight on-off switch.
@TasteTheCode 26 күн бұрын
Cool. My multimeter has a switch for the backlight already built in. I think most of the new ones have that now.
@johnbewick6357 27 күн бұрын
Much better to buy quality from Mitutoyo. All mine are left on for months at a time, and batteries last for a year or two. You also get guaranteed acuracy
@TasteTheCode 26 күн бұрын
Thanks, these ones serve the purpose for what we need right now. I guess we can upgrade later on if we need to.
@fixitman2174 27 күн бұрын
"Very Easy" is just removing the battery when not in use.
@TasteTheCode 26 күн бұрын
Yes, but we don't know when we gonna need them next. It might be in 15 minutes or in 3 days and sometimes we might need them multiple times per day so removing the battery all the time does not work. At least not for us as we tried that first.
@fixitman2174 25 күн бұрын
@@TasteTheCodeAre you serious? It takes less than 5 seconds to remove/install the battery. It's not like digital calipers have an emergency use. The case should have a battery-shaped compartment in it. It's there so you don't lose the battery when not in use. You're supposed to remove it.
@TasteTheCode 25 күн бұрын
@@fixitman2174 yes I am. That was a hustle for me so I decided to change it. You don't have to like nor you should do it on yours. I did it on mine and it is a million times better then removing it all the time. The green one even has a screw on the battery lid... Was I supposed to unscrew it every time I want to take out the battery???
@MatSmithLondon 27 күн бұрын
I have 6 sets of callipers. They are ALL cheap from Amazon. Some are cheaper than others. I preferred the metal type. All of them are awful, rubbish, break after a year or two in some way. I have two nice ones left, and I hadn't used them for a few months. BOTH of them have dead batteries (even though they hadn't been touched, and were locked). You know what, I'm going to invest some decent money in a set of analogue callipers from Mitutoyo because I'm sick of this now! The ones with the dial.
@Nbomber 26 күн бұрын
@MatSmithLondon lol if you want to own a nice fancy set of analogue calipers, it's ok, you don't have to justify it by lying. Cheap calipers work fine and are decently accurate. Anything with more demanding tolerances and you shouldn't even be using calipers. As for the battery, they all do that. Simple solution, take the battery out, they cost pennies anyway.
@TasteTheCode 26 күн бұрын
I was sick of empty batteries, thus the video.
@TasteTheCode 26 күн бұрын
Taking the battery out is not an option as the green one has screw on the cover and we use the calipers quite often so I'm not gonna add/remove the battery every hour. Maybe at the end of day, but then I'll forget. This way, I just use the switch for on/off and it does not take me any more time.
@lint2023 28 күн бұрын
The screws on the top edge of the cover adjust the play between the two halves of the caliper. Take out the play so that the measurement at the tips of the jaws offer the same measurement as measuring deep in the jaws close to the case. Remove all play but still leave the two halves able to slide.
@TasteTheCode 26 күн бұрын
Hey Thanks for pointing that out. I realized that they control the movement resistance but not the play. I'll adjust them. Thanks!
@Dan-ud8ob 29 күн бұрын
Well done... Thank you.
@TasteTheCode 28 күн бұрын
Thank you too!
@katoy9976 Ай бұрын
😘😘😘😘😘😘😘
@TasteTheCode Ай бұрын
👍
@CogitoBcn Ай бұрын
Nice design. Any reason why you didn't add some PVA glue?
@TasteTheCode Ай бұрын
I wanted to be able to take it apart and make changes if needed. It still works great!!!
@jackjones6936 Ай бұрын
Isn't the ESP32 3.3v whilst the LD2410 5v?
@TasteTheCode Ай бұрын
Yes, the power input is 5V but the logic output is 3.3V. So the power pin is connected to the Vin pin on the ESP.
@justatiger6268 Ай бұрын
I wonder if the range is better in darkness (as would be the case in the pellet storage container). Great video btw!
@TasteTheCode Ай бұрын
Thanks! The sensor uses IR so I don't think that regular light is affecting it.
@haripriyaNarayanan Ай бұрын
thank you so much😊😊..
@TasteTheCode Ай бұрын
You are welcome!
@katoy9976 Ай бұрын
😘😘😘😘😘😘😘😘😘😘
@giorgiomarrocco2879 Ай бұрын
C'e' il piper nei modelli disponibili?
@TasteTheCode Ай бұрын
You can find the full list here: rcflightsim.com/planes.html
@Randombourg Ай бұрын
You could have just powered the device with a basic 5v usb A cable?
@TasteTheCode Ай бұрын
You'll need to modify the cable to match the plug and also to provide enough current for the tv box.
@GntlTch Ай бұрын
Interesting but useless without the BMS. Where is the source for the BMS?
@TasteTheCode Ай бұрын
There is a BMS installed. I don't understand your comment...
@rudolfbarta2292 Ай бұрын
Igazi szar munka! A lithium-cella nem játék! Szigeteletlen vezeték, forrasztás, jeöletlen polaritás(vezetékszín) Hogy ne csinád: Lehetne a címe... Really rubbish work! The lithium cell is not a toy! Uninsulated wires, soldered, unmarked... Polarity (wire color) Never do that: choose the right title for the video... Wirklich eine Schrottarbeit! Die Lithiumzelle ist kein Spielzeug! Unisolierte Drähte, verlötet, unmarkiert... Polarität (Drahtfarbe) Das solltest du auf keinen Fall machen: wähle den richtigen Titel für das Video...
@TasteTheCode Ай бұрын
Feel free to show us better...
@Dries-g3k Ай бұрын
Hi. Is it possible to store the parameters in the screens seperate so when modifying the paramaters the arduino keeps the parameters after a reset or power restart? Mayby in the eprom memory?
@TasteTheCode Ай бұрын
Sure you can, I have a separate video on that: kzbin.info/www/bejne/n3acYoarj7imfLM
@Dries-g3k Ай бұрын
@@TasteTheCode thank you! great video 🙂
@TasteTheCode Ай бұрын
You are welcome!
@Dries-g3k Ай бұрын
@@TasteTheCode is there a part 2 of this project?
@TasteTheCode Ай бұрын
Nope, unfortunately not. There wasn't much interest in it and I moved on to other stuff.
@PraneethaMorla Ай бұрын
Sir i am getting error like filters.h is not found what can i do now sir
@TasteTheCode Ай бұрын
You are missing that file. The code is available on my website: www.tastethecode.com/oximeter-monitor-with-oled-screen-and-max30105-sensor-on-nodemcu
@kenwong6771 Ай бұрын
Good video. May I know is it ok for me to connect the sensor to Raspberry Pi. I am figuring out how can I use the raspberry pi to control it.
@TasteTheCode Ай бұрын
Thanks! Sure you can. The sensor uses UART so look for examples on how to setup UART on the RPi. I haven't connected it personally but should be fairly easy.
@Unrealizedlosses 24 күн бұрын
I'm actually working on connecting this sensor to a pico w. Would love to hear if you got this working. I'm struggling a bit with the gates/sensitivity and getting false positives...
@TasteTheCode 24 күн бұрын
@@Unrealizedlosses What is triggering the sensor? Try averaging the values before reacting so you can filter out false positives. I did not worked much with the sensor beyond the demo but during that initial testing the readouts were quite good.
@redfields5070 Ай бұрын
Downvote this junk video! It tells you nothing. What's it even for? How does it help anybody?
@TasteTheCode Ай бұрын
What should it tell you?
@Sctronic209 Ай бұрын
5min? fifteen min video
@TasteTheCode Ай бұрын
You have to account for the explanations as well.