Easy LED Panel light repair and LED driver current optimization trick

[@kanishka.b8550]

Thanks for the video. I also have a led panel with a dimming problem at start up. I dissembled it and had no idea how to control the current of these drivers. Searched days to find a video on this type of driver. finally found. I had done this in regular LED lamps which worked great... Hope these companies stop frying these LEDs and ripping us off... So much life wasted in LEDs due to overheating.

[@TasteTheCode]

Thanks! Yes, the driver is not documented and the IC is literally non-existent. I modified the resistors by pure guesswork. Usually there should be a formula in the datasheet.

[@diymakerdan]

Learned something new with the diode setting on my meter doing a quick test on a spare 12v led. That is going to come in handy someday. Thanks for the tip.

[@TasteTheCode]

I'm glad you liked it!

[@drinkintea1572]

Instead of replacing the burned led, I just replaced the current sensing resistor to a higher value so the current will be lower (~%30 lower) and could theoretically last longer, did this on led bulbs (9w/12w) this is my first test on "ceiling" models, will report how much it last 🎉

[@TasteTheCode]

This is a viable thing to do but mine was already gone so I had to fix it first. The resistor modification is best done when the light is new and unused so that there is no stress on the LEDs at all.

[@pdxdiyer]

Good video and nice that you explained why it is necessary to do more than just bridging the defunct LEDs and that the driver needs to be modified. I suspect that a lot of the cheap LED lights are overdriving the LEDs to get the advertised amount of lumens, which is why so many of them fail after about a year. I have several LED strip lights that have failed in a similar way - I desoldered the LEDs from one light to repair the others. I also increased the sense current resistors to reduce the drive current by about 30% which will (hopefully) avoid the lights from failing again.

[@TasteTheCode]

Chasing lumens is probably the reason. It makes sense. Thanks for sharing and watching!

[@cjlow5113]

Very clearing demonstration and explanation. Good job👍

[@TasteTheCode]

Thank you!

[@stevemoore4746]

Two irons. I used two irons to remove LED's from my light. Then replaced them with LED's I got from China. SMD LED's are determined by the dimensions of the LED. Soldering on was easy, first clean the pads with wic and liquid flux. Clean with denatured alcohol. Use one iron, sharp tip, liquid flux and flow one side of the LED at a time.

[@mahmoodmirza3301]

Excellent piece of work. Keep it please!

[@TasteTheCode]

Thank you! ♥♥♥

[@Fred-zc8lt]

Thank you from New Hampshire, USA

[@TasteTheCode]

You are very welcome! Thanks for watching!

[@okinamshet]

hello. thanx to this video i've got an idea what happened to our office panel lights. My question is, since two l.e.d.s are connected, should i put jumpers on the positive side ONLY in one of the led? thank you

[@TasteTheCode]

Yes, when the LEDs are in parallel bridging only one is sufficient.

[@okinamshet]

@@TasteTheCode THANK YOU

[@TeranceHealy]

Seems strange that you ignored the PIR. If the wattage is exceeded, the same problem arises. It goes dim, or stays off, or stays on. Adjusting for wattage fixed everything.

[@TasteTheCode]

The PIR is external, not built in the lights. It is rated for 1200W so quite far from the combined 54W of the LED panels. I don't see how it could have affect the issue.

[@TeranceHealy]

@@TasteTheCode I was looking at combined panels being run from the PIR. I eval from start to finish. my start point would have been the PIR. Currently dealing with an evil mosfet that has the LEDs dimmed. I think I may have paralleled or serialed where I should have done the other.

[@TasteTheCode]

Being dimmed, sounds as if you have them wired in series, sharing the current. Mine are wired in parallel.