Glad you enjoyed it.

Being so close is spooky, and its easy to get carried away. Just remember to practice safety around edging on cliffs

I noticed the same thing.

Good points.

Glad you got some value out of the video.

Reach out on one of my social media's.

I messaged you on Facebook.

Glad you enjoyed it.

Thanks. Eventually, focusing on work, HowNot2 and my Climbing for now.

I climbed a little at Buoux once upon a time. No idea the culture and protocol for replacing bolts tho.

Glad you are still with us.

I also have problems finding people who did first ascents. it helps to make friends in the local community if there is ine, but that has been hard in my area. I haven't been to Bald Rock dome yet. That and Grizzly Dome are in my list.

Glad you enjoyed it.

Glad you got some value from it.

Glad you got some value out of the video. Super stoked that I survived and can still climb.

Thanks, Jayden is a talented dude.

We did a video about those bolts recently on Hownot2. Definitely practice where it doesn't matter first as I have found them to finicky to place.

Reach out on IG or FB.

Did it live up to the hype?

@@bobbyhutton1989Almost two weeks later, and I'm still smiling about it. Those 5.10 sport climbs were nothing short of rad, and that 5.9/10a crack was a total classic in my book. Absolutely unbelievable how much work you guys have put into developing that area, and the community is better for it. Thank you.

Thanks, it was a pleasure climbing with you.

Those were my thoughts as well.

Well said.

A bit long and rambling so not sure I can reply adequately, but I will try. There are at leaat a dozen variations you could use to tie off to a tree that would work perfectly for the task. The friction less hitch you mentioned is a great one, ultimate strength doesn't matter in this context, but it is vey simple and can use a knot most climbers already know. No substitute for experience. You do have to start somewhere to gain that experience tho.

So do I

Thanks, you too

Glad you enjoy them, more videos in the works, too busy enjoying the mountains over the summer to film much.

@@bobbyhutton1989 here starts already wintertime. I hope to go back climbing as fast as i can! I love your content!

Right on.

Totally, in in theory. Do you have any examples of that happening? Vertical anchors are very common in Europe, especially France. I haven't come across any failures such as you describe . In the lower off scenario these are designed for there will be meters of climbing rope in the system. Dynamic climbing rope which is designed to absorb shock. Your loads in that scenario are also very low compared to the strength of a bolt.

@@bobbyhutton1989 All valid points…and I’ve seen those in Europe and some sport areas and haven’t personally seen any fail with bolts (though I have seen old bolts shear and fail but that’s a diff gen of gear). In early 90s, I did SAR for a team that had gear anchor failure…with one piece failing leading the the second failing (mistakes of course included not being equalized and only have two). And from my days as a big wall rat, I recall hearing from the partner of someone who was dared to sleep off a single hook in his portaledge…with a zero alien close but unweighted as back-up (of course he and the ledge were backed up to the real bomber anchor but purposely done so with 15ft of slack for the bet…all stupid I agree but a very amusing story…esp since in the middle of the night the hook failed when he turned in his sleep…shock loaded the alien on static cord…and the guy fell…with his ledge/gear…until the real anchor caught him! The result was a lost sleeping bag, a nights sleep and perhaps his undies…in addition to the bet). While I love that story to this day…it really doesn’t refute your point. (And I’ve seen zero aliens take huge whoppers so I always assumed it wasn’t ideally seated) And frankly…without dynamic loading, offset bolt anchors are probably fine and can make rope retrieval easier in some situations. But I’m a dinosaur from a trad and aid era..who has much more faith in a cam i put in that a bolt of indeterminate age/quality/skill of placement. And I’m still uncomfortable if I’m honest with a two piece anchor even if in a place like Smith with my kids. Rational…maybe not but it’s hard to teach an old dog the new. Plus my goal was always to experience amazing places with as little chance of danger as possible. So I always like three or more as a rule…preferably with something I put in rather than Sir Edmund Hillary…or Joe gym climber (not that competent sport climbers that actually know how to bolt don’t do it right…I just know not everyone does) But it wasn’t really meant as a critique of you and I appreciate your efforts to teach the newer generation safe techniques and think through the physics of it all…keep it up and keep climbing! I’m no expert but I’m glad folks like you make efforts to teach us all how to enjoy climbing more safely!

Yup, my winter hangout

Reach out on my social medias.

No, unfortunately. Road holds snow. It goes into full shade mid afternoon tho so climbable in summer.

No idea how to respond to that.

Glad you enjoyed it! Vexatious is an awesome word.

Yes that context is important to remember. on the other hand not everyone has to climb every route.

Welcome aboard. I appreciate the kind words.

I wish.

Thanks for the kind words. i am working on a handful of videos that I will probably release this fall. Finishing up an exciting one the will be published on Hownot2.

ha ha ha. i had to do so many takes my voice got sore and i needed the water.

I thought so.

Glad you enjoyed it

We will probably be seeing those leeper gangers for another decade or two on more remote routes.

Thanks

It happens fairly regularly at certain areas. Off the top of my head I can think of 8 routes that I have had to replace lower off hardware that I either replaced or upgraded initially. At the same area my friend had all the hangers stolen off a route he installed.

Appreciate the support

Thanks for allowing me to hang out and distract you.