That’s awesome! Glad you found a way to get that bed leveled! 0.12mm is seriously impressive, keep up the good work!

Thanks for the comment. I haven't tried Octa4a, but as long as you have a smartphone that supports USB-OTG with simultaneously charging, it should work quiet well. Even older smartphones may have more computing power than a raspberry pi. I like that idea. I have an old smartphone lying around here, too, that's looking for a new job 😁

@@3D_Printing_Geek Well I subbed just in case that phone ends up as the star of a new video 😉

Okay if anyone else is struggling with fluidd like i was, the SOLUTION to my above problem was removing moonraker & nginx and reinstalling (the problem has happened twice so far). Also on fluidd to enable TIMELAPSE you have to go to the moonraker.conf file under the configuration tab and scroll to the bottom. There you will just delete the #'s on each line of code under fluidd. It tells you in the code comments there. Hope it makes someone have an easier time.

Thanks for sharing your experience! It sounds like you've found a solid workaround for the fluidd issues. Your tips will definitely help others who are facing similar challenges!

@matgyver2360 Since I think that only the printer.cfg would help, I put the whole config folder packed together for you to download. It may not be the latest but it should help you get further. github.com/3DPrintingGeek/Klipper_K1_config/archive/refs/heads/main.zip

@@3D_Printing_Geek Thank you VERY much! It's amazing how seldom people share their config files. It will substantially help others get started. Thanks again!

It actually is true bed leveling. By loosening the timing belt, and screwing down the build platform to the base, you physically change the bed orientation to be perpendicular to the gantry, because the leadscrews are free to move. Then, by putting on, and tightening the belt, the new position is fixated. The following ABL just measures how far off the bed still is, and accommodates the remaining differences during a print job.

Thanks for sharing your experience. I think, that sometimes the repo with the helper script introduced errors. It changed a lot since I made the video, and maybe the developer broke some things. Hopefully he'll fix that quickly.

Did you install Pin Support regardless of being ask? Maybe the requirements check is faulty, and KAMP appears when it's there?

@@3D_Printing_Geek sadly I never saw any option named pin support on the install menu. Is it under another name? Also, if it's needed why didn't it show up on the KAMP installation like yours did? It's just too weird.

I forked the repository some time ago to make some changes. Though not completely free of problems yet, the KAMP part should work. If you want to give that a try, here's the URL from which to clone: github.com/3DPrintingGeek/Creality-Helper-Script.git After cloning switch to the "feature/add_option_to_force_camera_settings_installation" branch, before executing the helper script. I really hope that will do the trick for you.

I'm interested in understanding your perspective on this. In the video, I actually demonstrated the full functionality of Klipper on the K1. Did you have a specific extension in mind, like Crowsnest, which isn't part of the core Klipper software? It's important to note that for extensions to work on the K1, they need to be compiled specifically for its processor and Linux version. Just to clarify, Klipper itself remains fully functional on the K1 and doesn't differ from other installations in terms of core functionality.

Thank you for watching! If you connected your K1 to your WiFi while following the first-time setup wizard, then the installation process is all wireless, so no need for any USB connections. The important step to install Klipper is, that you have to unlock root access. Only then you can log in to a shell, using an SSH client like Putty. The part in the video explaining the procedure starts at 1:49.

So happy you liked it! Stay tuned for more awesome content!

Thank you very much! I really appreciate your comment and I'm glad you like my videos!

Hi @Fred-bq9pc, sure. The Flsun QQ-S Pro in the video has an MKS Robin Mini board. To flash Klipper to your MKS Robin Nano V2 board, use the instructions given in the file generic-mks-robin-nano-v2.cfg. Then try one of the configs given in this repository: github.com/CobraPi/Klipper-Firmware-FLSUN-QQ-S-Pro-Delta-Printer/tree/main/configurations Choose the one that matches best, or start with the stock config. Let me know, if that works for you.

@@3D_Printing_GeekI tested them and none work, I'm going to order another model of motherboard and I'll see thank you !!!

No problem! Happy to help out!

Hi @rikogarza1729, at the very beginning of the short you see the bed level before: It's off level by about 4mm from the lowest to the highest corner! After following the procedure, the bed level got 4x better: only about 1mm between the highest and lowest point. This makes it much easier for the ABL to compensate for the differences during printing. In the final result, it may look as if nothing has changed, but this is because the colors for the highest and lowest points in the display are the same as before the procedure. Hope the explanation clarified it?

Thanks 🙂

Thank you very much. I hope you like my newer stuff, too, and would be glad if you'd become a regular viewer of my videos 🙂

You're absolutely welcome! I'm glad you found the video valuable. Thanks for subscribing, that means a lot to me!

Thank you for watching! I had planned to include using the Camera Settings Control in the video, but unfortunately, without changing the code, it can't be installed when you have the new revision of the AI cam installed. Even when I managed to get around that, it still requires modifications to the code, which would have been beyond the scope of the video. If you have the older revision, then you can install it. To be able to change the 2nd cams settings, you have to modify the camera_settings.cfg and exchange all video device references to your 2nd cams device. As soon as I have a good solution, I do a pull request to the helper-script, so that it will be possible in the future.

@@3D_Printing_Geek yeh my problem is that I have the K1C I’m able to have the 2 cameras but my webcam keeps trying to autofocus and the timelapse looks bad 😅

@PedroGomes_27 Until there's an easier solution (I'm making progress on that🙂) you may try to disable and set the 2nd cams focus using from the shell using the commands "v4l2-ctl --d /dev/video5 --set-ctrl=focus_auto=0" (this disables autofocus) and "v4l2-ctl -d /dev/video5 --set-ctrl=focus_absolute=17" (to set a fixed focus value, experiment with the value until satisfied). Youmay have to change the "/dev/video5" by whatever your USB-cam is. You can get a list to identify your 2nd cam using "v4l2-ctl --list-devices". Let me know if that solved the issue.

Thanks a bunch for watching! Your feedback keeps me going, so I'm grateful for your support!

@luxurious1617 Hi there. I have plans to do a general video covering that topic. In the meantime, to get your 3D printer operational again, I suggest resetting it back to the stock firmware. Interestingly one doesn't find the required firmware on their international website, but I found it for you on their German website. There's a flashing tutorial describing the procedure, too. You can download the firmware for your 3D printer, and watch the tutorial following this link: artillery3dprinter.de/pages/kundenservice I hope that helps in the first run 😃

Hey there! The machine's bed is moved using three leadscrews that are controlled by a single motor to ensure they move together. By using three points, we define a plane in space. To change the bed's orientation, you need to adjust the height of each point independently. Don't worry, it's easy! First, loosen the belt, then tighten the screws that hold the bed down, which will slightly adjust the position of each leadscrew. Once you've done that, reattach the belt to sync the leadscrews' movement again. This will change the bed's orientation and boost its performance. Just a heads up - remember to perform another calibration after removing the three screws to make sure the bed is all set. I hope this makes sense?

@oneeyedjack3734 The max height of the Falcon 2, using the risers supplied in the package, is about 3 inch (when using a steel plate, less with a honeycomb grid). Creality offers a set of 12 risers, with which you can raise the height in 2 inch steps. So yes, using these ones, you could slide a 6 inch object underneath the laser.

@@3D_Printing_Geek thank you very much for your reply

Hey, what problem did you have? If it got worse then you may have fastened the screws during the procedure too tight. In some cases repeating the procedure may be required. As far as I remember I did 3 rounds to get the shown result. Getting close to 1mm between the highest and lowest point should be sufficient. For the rest the auto bed levelling will take care. I hope the explanation helps you to get the problem solved.

Hey, thanks a ton for the kind words! It's great to hear from you while I'm working on my new video. By the way, if you're looking for a specific part of the video, you can jump to it easily using the existing chapters. Is that what you meant by slides? Keep an eye out for more exciting content from me!

It's understandable to feel hesitant about making changes to a working setup, but it's always possible to go back to the original FW. Just make sure you have a copy of it somewhere, just in case 😀

Thank you for watching and for your support!

Hey, thanks for the shoutout! I'm stoked that you found my solution useful. Let me know if it works for you!

Thanks for the comment. Unfortunately without context I don't get what it is about 🤔

@@3D_Printing_Geek ah apologies for not being clear. I am new to 3d printing. So yesterday i was working on an object in tinkercad, exported it as .stl and imported that stl to prusa slicer ( my printer is Sovol sv07) within prusa i attempted to add text to the object however “add part” was not available, generally the menu i saw upon clicking the surface didn’t have as many options as in the video, the top part of menu options was the same however the it ends and i don’t get to add text to the object, only as a separate object on the bed..

@TheLooking4sunset Ok. Now I got it. Are you sure you're using the 2.7 version of PrusaSlicer? I just tried exactly what you described: Exporting an object as STL from TinkerCad , and importing it into PrusaSlicer. Then right click on the imported object, and I was able to add text.

@@3D_Printing_Geek thank you so much for investing so much time to help me, yeah it’s 2.7.1 ver. Running on windows, when I right click the object ( prior to slicing) the menu i see starts from top to bottom with: -add instance - remove instance - set number of instances - fill bed with instances - delete - set as a separate object - printable [it is ticked] -reload from disk … ending on - mirror - split -add support enforcer -add support blocker And that is it for me.. My best LFS

Ok. Try the following: select the model, then press T. That's the shortcut for the "Add text" feature. The menu item when you right click is "Add part...". Then you should see "text" as a choice, among others.

Hi, the slicer just takes the provided model and creates a GCode-file from it. To print it you have to save the file to a USB stick, SD-card, or send it over network. Which method to use depends on your 3D printer model. Does this answer your question?

I really appreciate your feedback! It's so nice to hear that you enjoyed the explanations and the video quality. I put a lot of effort into making my content as clear and engaging as possible, so your comment means a lot to me.

I'm glad you found the info helpful! Learning a new slicer can be a bit challenging at first, but I'm sure you'll get the hang of it soon.

I appreciate you taking the time to express your concerns. It's crucial for companies to listen to their customers and work on resolving any issues. Your feedback will definitely help them understand the importance of quality control and delivering products that are ready to go right out of the box.

I'm glad you enjoyed that video, too! To access the monotonic settings, go to the "Print Settings" tab and select "Infill" on the left side! Then, in the Infill section, you find two drop-down boxes "Top fill pattern" and "Bottom fill pattern". There you can choose "Monotonic", "Monotonic lines", or one of the other fill patterns.

@@3D_Printing_Geek thanks again! i'm giving this a try along with the tips you gave me on the supports as well. BTW, I'm using a Longer LK5 Pro.

Thank you so much for your kind words and for subscribing! I'm glad the video was helpful to you. As for your question about making supports easier to remove and less intrusive, as usual, there's no one-fits-all answer, and it requires doing tests for the specific material and printer, but I'll try to give some tips: - print at a lower temperature, if possible. It will reduce the bonding strength of the support with your print - increase the Top Z-contact distance. Generally, I wouldn't go over 0.2 which is the default. - Increase pattern spacing, but that could make the contact surface look worse - if not already, try Snug support instead of Grid, that should be easier to remove, too - if possible, use "Support on build plate only" - reorient the print, or use the cut tool to get away with no support, or avoid to much support (Golden rule: "No support is the best support ;-) ) - Consider using support interface layers to create a buffer between the support material and your print, making removal easier. When using Organic Supports: - Try adjusting the support density and angle, as well as the other branch settings to find the right balance between stability and ease of removal. I hope these tips help! Let me know if you have any more questions.

I am also very fond of running a Creality 3D printer and have a private business part time. At this time I am working in Architectural Draftsman private company.

Thanks for the comment! It's ongoing fun printing with with it.

It's always inspiring to hear about people who are, like me, passionate about what they do. Keep chasing your dreams!

Looks like we've got a minimalist here! Short and sweet, I like it.

Yo, I know it might seem like everyone and their grandma has done a K1/P1P printer comparison, but trust me, mine's gonna be lit! Looking at the views it seems there's still some interest in the topic to be juiced out. Stay tuned and prepare to have your mind blown!😜

It's a totally legit choice. I'm not biased towards one or the other and would love any of Bambu Lab's 3D printers for sure, too. Bambu does a great job providing high quality and innovative machines. To our advantage, they have really shaken up the competition. We now have more choice of new, exciting 3D printers.

I haven't tried the knockoff yet and I'm not sure if that doesn't even infringe a patent. Maybe I try it but unless I'm sure that it's legal refrain from showing it..

@@3D_Printing_Geek it is manufactured differently. It consists of a pressfitted core that has been drilled. Stefan from CNC kitchen reviewed it.

Ah well, I remember having seen his video. Thanks for the reminder. I have a genuine CHT lying around somewhere and will definitely give it a try.

Hello, I have to admit: When I bought the Elegoo Neptune X, I originally expected a CoreXY 3D printer. I was somewhat disappointed when I realized that it's just a clone of the Creality Ender 5 Pro, which is just a "normal" Cartesian printer with the Z and Y axes swapped, too. Other than a bedslinger, the print bed moves along the Z-axis, while the rest remains stationary, and the print head moves in the X and Y directions. However, in the end, I am quite satisfied with the Neptune X because, due to its design, it takes up less space. Also, since the much lighter print head now moves in the Y-direction instead of the heavy print bed, it prints significantly faster than a Bedslinger.

@@3D_Printing_Geekoh cool! Thank you for your reply!

@@someonenormal5579 You're welcome Dude, it's my pleasure.

Dude, I totally get what you're saying! Creality may be slow on the development front, but hey, if your cheaper printer is giving you the same results, why complain? Keep rocking those prints!

Thank you for pointing out the benefits of the pip over the k1. I don't count myself in any camp, neither Creality, Bambu Lab, Prusa or any other manufacturer and fully agree with you that the option to expand the P1P with the AMS for multi-color printing is a unique selling point that should be considered when deciding on one of the two 3D printers. It's always helpful to hear different perspectives when making a decision.

I just bought an anker, I have no creality/bambolabs/prusha printer. but still bambo lab is known for their quality 3d printers while creality is known for having a lot of issues @@3D_Printing_Geek

Certainly, you are right. Everyone has different circumstances when it comes to acquiring a 3D printer. Some simply want a machine they can start using right away without having to worry about the technical aspects. For others, the fun lies in pushing the limits of what's possible or tuning their 3D printer. Additionally, it's always a matter of budget; reliability and good manufacturer support often come with higher costs. In the case of Creality, this is somewhat offset by the very active community. Ultimately, as with almost all purchases, you get what you pay for. That's why I always advise beginners to thoroughly research the support and community aspects before making a purchase. If possible, it's better to spend a few hundred more dollars upfront than to later regret avoidable issues. In this regard, I would certainly recommend a P1P over a K1 in this case, even though my initial experience with the K1 was very satisfying. It has been the quickest setup of a 3D printer so far, and the only two failed 3D prints were my own fault.

Apparently there is an AMS being developed for the K1/Max. Zero details available on it though…

@@mikestewart4752 That sounds cool. Do you have a source? Having an AMS for the K1/K1 Max would be interesting ☺️

Looking at the shape of the cable, I'd say it's a FPC. But since both, FFC and FPC cables belong to the category of ribbon cables, you're right. The primary distinction between FPC and FFC lies in the fact that a flexible flat cable denotes any flexible and flat electrical cable type, whereas an FPC is a flexible printed circuit. FFC cables are a miniaturized form of a ribbon cable. Due to their construction, occupy significantly less space and can provide more flexibility than round cables.

Hi, I wouldn't call it a defect, but rather sloppiness in quality control. If the print bed had been uneven and warped, I would certainly have complained about the printer long ago, but the way my bed looks, it's just a sloppy calibration that I can fix. The most annoying thing is that it takes a lot of time. I only made one attempt for the video, but with a little time and patience it can be fixed. As a beginner, however, I would send the printer back and hope that the problem doesn't occur, or only minimally, with a new device. Incidentally, I printed all the 3D prints shown in the video before leveling. In this respect, the ABL has already compensated for this very well, although I would prefer the term TCP (Tilt Compensation Procedure) instead of ABL, because ABL basically levels absolutely nothing.

Oh well, that back mounted spool holder is realyl a pain in the a.. everytime you have to exchange the filament. Usually people have their 3D printers with the back facing to a wall. Furthermore it increases the depth needed to place the 3D printer. Seems Creality did recognize that as well, since they provide a link to to Printables, for a side mount spool holder designed by Fred Boisselier on their GitHub page: github.com/CrealityOfficial/K1_Series_Klipper/releases

Thanks for sharing your experiences with both machines, I appreciate comments like yours very much. I'm so glad to hear that you love your K1! It's always great when a machine is reliable and gets the job done. As 3D printers are just another tool, the same applies to them: use what works and what you need. If I wanted to print in multiple colors, then I would certainly have given preference to the P1P with the AMS, although this is of course also a question of budget, as I have so far bought all my devices that can be seen in the videos with my own money and they were not provided to me by the manufacturer. In this respect, I also give my honest assessment in my videos and I am aware that the experiences of others may differ.

Was it a slicer or build surface issue?

@@Anyone700 Neither, it had some kind of layer shifting issue. Never found out what the solution was, and it seemed specific to this one strange model.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts which I mostly agree with. Yes, a big build volume is nice. On the other hand, most of my prints are small parts, though sometimes being able to print big would come handy but a huge bed to heat up for just a small print would truly be a waste of energy.

Yea go for the Max so the bed warp will be maximum