I had a Morris 10000 pick up,as my first car,in 1980.GFO361K,so just have been one of the last built.Long gone.

A spot of advice from down under. Use heat and WD40. Heat the joint (I use an electric heat gun) then soak the joint with WD, heat again. It should shift a fraction so tighten it a bit, more heat, more WD, keep moving the nut backwards and forward. It will slowly start moving more with the back and forwards motion. I used this technique on the bolts that hold the front door hinges and I got all the bolts out without rounding them off. The trick is to keep working the bolt in and out repeatedly. It took me 3 hours to get the doors off but I didn't damage anything. Extremely satisfying. I learnt this when I was working on the buses....

Sometimes a good chisel is your best friend. I have a selection of razor sharp ones for splitting rusted out nuts. I could usually crack a 1/2 nut with three good wallops with a lump hammer. The worst way you'll split the nut and it starts unwinding. But well done for sticking to it!

Hi, you can't push them through, front suspension bar needs to come off. Some advice, if you take things apart try to keep them together and when you do something on the other side weeks, months later you can use it as reference. Also a good blow torch will help to heat the stuck, rusted parts up which will help to loosen things. And if any lock tight have been used will also be released. Workshop manual read before disassemble will also help. Keep up the good 👍

A real fly on the wall video. This is the reality of owning / fixing an old british classic. Lots of rust, lots of encouraging words for bolts that refuse to play. Lots of tea and biscuits! BTW was that Bosham Quay in the intro? One of my favourite days out!

As a subscribed viewer this video was just all talking about what you are doing, but I think for us watching it would make it better if you set the camera up so we can watch and listen to you while you are working hope that makes sense, keep up all the hard work

That’s not bad at all if it were mine I’d just cut make and butt weld new section in apartment from bottom of the A post sill and hinge cove, the. Wipper brackets aren’t avalible by the way drill spot welds and plug back on is the only way to do it

not sure how your going to tackle the chassis leg but sure looks like fun , well done so far 👍👍

Its great that you have the new wiper motor. I let my last moggy go in 1999. I am looking at being another now and am becoming aware that some parts are now much more difficult to get hold of......Even tyres!!!! I recon you do well to prime as you go .Keep the air away from that nice rust free steel!!!! I admire your determination and willingness to learn as you go.You will probably find welding the passenger side much easier after all the practice on the drivers side.

you are doing great but you do waffle on .

What a brilliant caravan you have!! I never knew that folding caravans had been around so long.What age is yours?

hay nice to see some progress well done 👍

Hi your plodding on wing bolts should be 5/16 BSF although m8 is close and you can run a tap through if desperate

you could try flattening out a bit of copper pipe and hold it behind the gap before welding.this allows you to fill up the gaps when they are a bit to big it also helps when welding on the very edge of the panel .

Well done on the progress. Just a suggestion place your earth connection closer to your welding and a better connection would help. Keep up the good work, side two will be much improved with the practice you've had.

wow that's great progress well done , you and others on KZbin have also inspired me to find another moggy to restore omg what have i done lol details to follow lol 👍👍

I sold my last moggy in1999. Watching your channel and those of other morris minor owners has inspired me to get another. Hoping to get a traveller's thanks for the inspiration!!!!! I do recall realignment of the door on my 1997 traveller was a faff. The great thing is its all a learning curve.

ahhh yes, the pleasures of panel alignment.....

Well done,looking good. The other side will be a piece of cake.👍

Hi decent progress, the sticky out bit holds the lower back edge of the wing out,

Doing a great job

hay that's massive progress well done 👍👍

Thank God you had your safety footwear on! 10:50

Your neighbor in canada can do more with metal and types of wire/gas mixtures than most can learn in a lifetime. He has great playlists, and does do a lot of teaching of how to do this. Kyle Carter is his name, Carter Auto Restyling is his channel name. Do watch his channel, especially the 36 chevy build list as it does deal with old rigs similar to this.

As someone who has trained hundreds of students mig welding sheet metal you would save yourself a lot of aggravation and time wasted by taking a short course in mig welding.

G'day the ute is getting there

Please don't sell that vehicle and ensure your family see this video so they know what they are inheritance actually is.

Hay I think your doing ok , you’ve actually given me inspiration to do something with a mig welder in the near future 👍😊

Great video..The only people who dont make mistakes are those that make nothing.It is interesting to see you learn as you go. When this is finished you will be able to stand back and say ,"I did that!" Just subscribed to follow your journey.

Forget the weld proof primer, keep to clean steel. Get some 1mm steel sheet and cut some small sections off it or use an old scrap body part to set up the welder before you start welding the vehicle or any vehicle. Make sure your welding helmet lens is clean and contact tip in the torch is new. Wleding tips below if you want to see how I learnt how to do vehicle bodies years ago. Clean back using an 80grit flap wheel carefully so as not to make the test piece or vehicle section thinner. Make a good earth connection. Ideally, use 0.6mm wire but if you have 0.8mm that will do. Turn the amperage/voltage setting to its lowest setting. Turn the wire speed to No2. Turn the gas down so you can hear it leaving the gun but not hissing loudly. The above are start point settings. Pull the trigger on the torch to see how the wire feeds out onto your test piece and watch and listen to the arc. Keep doing this until you get a nice round tack, not heaped up, not elongated or odd shaped but round. You want to achieve a buzzing/sizzle sound. Any crackling adjust the wire speed only when welding thin steel sheet. With thin metal, you need to be aware of heat input and as with any welding get comfortable and do "dry runs" to make sure you are comfortable welding. Tack the piece in four places if possible. If happy with welder settings and repair patch location, go half way between tacks and tack again. When you have roughly 12 tacks in place (subject to repair patch size) then overlap tack in an alternating pattern (Like doing up a cylinder head or wheel nuts) around the patch until you have completed the continuous bead around the patch. Do not, blob sloppy slug or drag the torch. Hold it at 90degrees where possible to the pieceand one short but stead pull on the trigger for about a second. Avoid at all costs trying to run a bead on vehicles, the parent metal is too thin and you will burn through and then have to build the hole up with weld.

Is the primer you are using considered a “weld through” primer.

Yes put the guard and eye protectionon I am amazed by the number of KZbin video car restorers who do not have the guards of eye protection on . As a nearly 50 year body repair man I am horrified by the amount of people who dont have guards on especially the American sites, i know it looks good with all the sparks but you only have one set of eyes

looking good.....have to say....put the guard back on the grinder....those things can do a lot of damage to you if the disc breaks

coming along nicely now 👍👍

Might slow down camera movement and use a tripod when appropriate. Continued good luck with your project.

looking more solid with each video....well done

Magnets

I’m new to your channel, will definitely watch the progress.

Due to the extent of the repairs required, I would strongly recommend buying replacement chassis members rather than patching. Only replace one part at a time with the cars weight spread evenly. You should also have the bare doors hung so you can check for distortion as it's very easy to twist the car doing so much repairs. Good luck.

Not sure how deep your pockets are.... Strip it and dip it if you can afford it or get really dirty and clean it all off and see what you got. Nothing else you can do really. Good luck. Personally I would keep plugging away and see what I got.. Your only going to do it once, its half the fun and lets face it TV is really crap!

Loving the special guest stars in the video! #moredogs

Think you need to go to welding school.

yes the wire is useless!

That’s the coating on the wire, sounds like your getting too close and it’s Arking back on the gas shroud, plus slow the wire feed down slightly to stop clumpy welds, it just takes practice

The copper colour is actually a protective coating, but the wire will start to rust through it if left for a time.

rusty wire will cause exactly that!

Keep up the good work

I've spent a year part time cutting out the rust and replacing it in my 54. I'm hoping to get it driveable by the end of the year. Keeps me busy in my retirement. Greetings from Australia