Subscribed. Remarkably interesting. And just maybe a 2 per cent faster Spondon AS1. Cheers.

Interesting stuff. Thanks for posting.

I've been testing different castor oils while using copycat NGK plugs (which is what most people do unfortunately) which foul very easily. The castor oils so far have demonstrated their tendency to foul is much more than other types of oil. So I wouldn't recommend castor to anyone whose ignition system is weak. But if you want the best power to race then maybe just replace the plug after every race when using castor oil.

The only reliable place to buy NGK plugs from is www.ngk.com because now most of the authorized distributors are also selling NGK copies to profit a little more.

Ray Hook invented Blendzall in 1959 marked it in 1960 85% of racers used it, Hook sold Blendzall in 1987. I worked out of the building in 89 HVAC contracting, Hook used to come by the shop and tell stories about Blendzall.

Here's my page about viscosity modifiers: dragonfly75.com/moto/VModifiers.html

On my bike the main jet sizes are #80 or 82.5 with mineral oil, #85 with synthetic oil, #90 with castor oil.

Hi. I'm late to the game. You are no doubt very knowledgeable on this device. I have a DC CDI with the tiny screw advance+/-. Can I adjust this while engine running? Thanks

Been using Klotz castor and 100 octane Sunoco silver at 40:1 for over 35 years and has never had an engine failure.

Which head did you put on the AX? Or, did you machine the original one?

The only exception to this that I can think of is that I am using an adjustable CDI which can be adjusted to nearly perfectly match what the engine and fuel/oil needs. Most riders have a CDI with a set ignition curve and all adjustment moves the whole curve together. It is unknown so far whether or not the typical curve matches what is needed when using castor oil. More testing is needed.

Castor Viscosity - Viscosity is the #1 way of telling if an oil should be added sparingly or generously to the gas. There are a few different synthetics available to engine oil companies to use but basically only one castor oil, the oil extracted from the castor beans. So we can get an idea about different fuel/oil ratios of the different castor products just by looking at the densities. I just finished measuring densities because the companies don't publish that info. If 40/1 is a good ratio for a high quality castor product for a race bike then we can calculate the other ratios for the castor products with more solvent added to them to lower the density (or in the case of Blendzall to improve the octane). Dumonde Tech has the highest density at .94 so that will be our high quality standard. Benol has .88 so we can multiply .88/.94 times 40 to get 37.5 fuel/oil ratio. Blendzall 485 has a .855 density so .855/.94 times 40 is 36.4, so basically both Benol and 485 have to be used at ratios 7.5% lower than Dumonde Tech Racing Castor.

For the "smell oriented" people here, Dumonde Tech has a super nice fruity smell like Motul 800 and Blendzall 485 Gold Label smells like raunchy solvent! I hope it works good. I'd hate to be riding behind a bike using it. Klotz Benol has a pleasant smell to it.

Without retarding the ignition the fast burn castor oil can reduce power. Be warned. Don't be lazy.

Castor Compared Great protection (high carbon chain # and viscosity) and low smoke are what it delivers, just like synthetics. Carbon deposits are next to nothing if the carb isn't jetted too lean so the piston doesn't get too hot. So when someone mentions it leaves a fair amount of deposits then you know that rider is either jetted too lean or adds too much oil to the gas. I recommend 40/1 to 50/1 depending on NGK #. Spooge is similar to mineral oils in that almost none occurs unless too much oil is added, like under a 30/1 ratio. Pricing Klotz Benol is about 30% cheaper than many popular oils like Motul 800 and Castor 927. Blendzall is priced the same as those two popular oils. Dumonde Tech is a little pricier at 30% higher but is less than Castrol XR 77 and ELF HTX 976+. Jetting Like synthetic oil it will require 1 or 2 sizes bigger main jet. Select the main jet size by what gives you the lowest acceleration time between two poles along a road. Ignition Timing Because it increases burn rate it then requires the timing to be retarded. Also use an acceleration test with stopwatch to find the best ignition setting.

caster oil is better for heat, cools the engine better and when all the newer types of oil has burnt up caster will keep on lubricating the cylinder piston, just dechoke ports more often, also gives better ring seal more power

Best is Methanol and Castor oil 20:1 mix, for max 2 stroke power. High compression is needed for full benefits.

When set and jetted right castor mix is best. The only downside is a little extra carbon build up. Power is better and top ends last longer.

I have been using Blendzall Green castor for years , never looked back !

Castor oil seperates from the gasoline faster so remember to shake the bike or drain the gas everytime . It'll start on a little pure casor but one bowl of straight fuel can blow an engine.

Great video, surprised how little people understand about fuel delivery at idle, i just went from a 2.73 diameter needle to 2.74 and made such a difference If i may make a video request, can you cover the progression port in carbs,if that is the correct terminology

Budget Friendly Advice: If you want to try something that gives a faster burn than synthetic oil but don't want the extra cost of any of the all-castor oils, then just mix any of them with either of these two all group 2 oils: Amalie SynPlus, BelRay Mineral Oil. And use it more sparingly from 40/1 to 45/1. Only mix it right before adding it to gas. Don't mix the oils together and let it sit on the shelf because the castor may settle down to the bottom. Castrol R40 is a mix of castor and group 2 oil but its not cheap at $22/liter. Klotz BeNol mixed with either of these group 2 oils comes out to only $12.30 per liter. Blendzall #485 mixed with group 2 oil comes out to $15.80 per liter. I just mixed BeNol with Castrol Go (70% group 2 and 20% group 1) and after 15 minutes the castor had settled underneath the mineral oil. They were two different colors. Doing so with all-group2 SynPlus also resulted in separation. So they need to be added to gas instead of being put on the shelf (unless its a total amount not more than what you normally add to gasoline).

Someone expressed concern that "fast burn" oils would increase the liklihood of detonation. I would answer that it is a likely possibility before you retard the ignition because a fast burn would cause an early pressure peak in the cylinder which is why the ignition has to be retarded. So I wouldn't recommend anyone switch to pure castor oil without finding the right amount of timing retard that's needed for the best acceleration time.

So using the same logic if a person has a preferred oil they run, they could test performance, switch oils, test again, and the performance increase/decrease could be used to determine if an ignition timing adjustment would be beneficial with their preferred oil.

My list of KZbin videos about 2 strokes: dragonfly75.com/moto/my2Tvideos.html

How To Test: Test on a flat or inclined road for street bikes or flat or inclined dirt for dirt bikes. The bigger the engine, the more inclined the road can be which helps to prevent super rapid acceleration. Set up two markers along the path so you can pass the 1st marker in low RPM and then gradually open the throttle. Do this in the least # of gears to keep the run time between 15 and 20 seconds. Don't get into over-rev. Hold a stopwatch in your left hand or have someone on the side of the road hold it. I also used an RPM gauge so that I crossed the 1st marker close to 2200 RPM each time.

Fast Burn Oils are castor and group 1 mineral oil. Slow Burn Oils are synthetic and group 2 mineral oils. Most oils are a mixture so you have to look at the % of each that is in any product. Those are found on my engine oil page www.dragonfly75.com/moto/oil.html The exception is that any product with any amount of synthetic oil is considered a slow burn oil. For example, Castrol R40 is castor and group 2 oil and so it is probably somewhere between fast and slow burn.

Equal Results? Both test oils gave the same final results after adjustment of high RPM timing but I think castor oil would of gave better results if the low/mid RPM timing was also adjusted for it. There was a slight drizzle of rain while testing so I just wanted the testing to end ASAP. I need to redo the test with that adjustment also for castor.

How do we know what oils are slow burn and quick burn?

Spark plug color is only useful for choosing the engine oil and ratio to use. Engine oils with a lot of group 1 oil are the ones that darken the plug the most. For example, Amsoil Dominator is synthetic and 45% group 1 oil and unless it has lots of detergent additives will leave plugs black. Also plugs will have more deposits if the heat range NGK # is too high. But don't select the # by color. Only go by where the color change line is on the ground electrode after a WOT run, ended by clutching and killing the engine. Excess oil reduces deposits on the piston/head/exhaust port but increases them on the plug (because its hotter). Excess oil reduces most deposits by creating thick coat of oil on them which reduces their ability to absorb combustion heat.

We run around 50% squish ratio on nitro rc boats and between 0 .3mm -0.4mm clearance,,allows max compression with less detonation,,need all the power you can get for boats lol

E. g. 1968-1976 Suzuki T500/GT500 do not have squish heads. These engines are prone to pinging even in stock setup, not to mention in case of rebored cylinders with a comp tad higher. I was able to source aftermarket squish heads and I can ran far higher compression without pinging issues.

Hi Michael, I think you are absolutely right about the uneven heating of the rings. This also explains the presence of spots of uneven wear on the cylinder surface above the ports. Especially in large diameter cylinders.

I dont have facebook, is there another website with this information?

Great video. Are any of your spread sheets available to purchase?

Great video. Keep up the good work. I like your comment about making the squish clearance too small increasing detonation risk. Have you tried calculating a squish temperature/pressure to identify knock risk?

Talking about stock squish being far from perfect, Harry Klemm wrote: "Ironically, the big majority of air cooled 2strokes of the 1960s-80s era had head dome designs that ranged somewhere between “not so good, to totally horrible” … no one knows why the manufactures did that." www.klemmvintage.com/deto2.htm

Good video. I think Harry Kleem would agree with you as I do.

Hello Micheal my daughter has a yamaha PW80 that uses the 2 wire coil "triggerless" cdi setup you describe here. The CDI unit is damaged beyond repair and no longer available from yamaha and i cant for the life of me track down an aftermarket replacement that does not require an external trigger do you have a link for one you know would work to get her riding again ? It reads like your jaguar one would work but i doubt its availabe here in New Zealand and it sounds like its is way overkill for what a kids bike would need. Thanks in advance

Im very curious to adjust my squish and compression, mostly to go from a race head to a more mild "pump gas" head design. This is on a ktm250sx 1999, compression is 14.5:1 so i run 100llav gas and 927@40:1 , the stock head has some design flaws like sharp corners a big dome and small squish.The engine was designed from ktm for low rpm torque in mind. I purchased a used 2002 head with a wider squish band and smaller dome, known to have improved top end, I plan on using this head for performance and then modifying the 1999 head by lowering the compression so I can use 91 octane pump gas. I would prefer the new head design be for mid to high rpm if im loosing my high compression , the motor can rev out better . Would you have any advice on making a pump gas head out of a race head? My plan was to literally chuck a spark plug in a drill, held in a vice and re cut the dome until I get my target cc for head volume. I figured if i had less power Id be on the gas a little more to keep up with everyone. Also do you think I would need to time the stator for pump gas, if so how much should i start with?

Chiropratic healed my lower back after an injury a few years before. Over the years my neck goes out, where its a sharp pain, sometimes feared I could get up, 1 adjustment of the neck it get relieved 80% then goes away, happened multiple times. At the end of 2019 I did a no cheating keto diet, started it by starving myself for a couple days, got the keto flu bad. Didnt get cold or flu symptoms for 4 years after that, where Id annually or biannually get sick. On the diet, I lost 10 lbs in 10 days and 30lbs in 3 months without physical activity. I started eating clean after that and kept the weight off. Im working on other ailments and because of this video, wondering if I have cfs and candida.

thank you so much for sharing, i am very interested in purchasing your devices! do you ever use the devices on a regular basis to maintain your health? or were they only helpful during the worst periods of your illness?

That's a life changing speech you saved your life by using rejected tech and natural medicine 👍💯

Blood electrifying? Is that like a tens unit

Why does the Clark zapper treat parasites, mold, and bacteria? The number you provided for contact does not work?

Readers Digest conclusion: get a Dragy and tune by drag times as long as your heat is good.

The a Graham book Goes into mixture ratios Oil has more power than gas But slow burn Air cooled engines need to be richer Water cooled you can get away with leaner mixes 50:1 is as lean as I like And 40:1 is as rich as I like Mitch Payton Pro circuit racing Let’s out some good info If you listen when he and the techs talk He is definitely running the mix he knows makes the most power on his dyno

Pin it Has dyno runs With different oil s And different mixes Tests both for power & wear Shoes the cylinders after the runs And pistons I personally use silkolene 48:1 In my 2 smokers With the best fuel I can get

There are several books on this As far as u tube goes Pin it racing And Steps to the podium Have good acurate information

If love to hear your opinion on metering rod carbs. I’ve had decent success with them but I found size is key to getting great response and good fueling. With a large carb and rich rod down low you could get response but if dual sporting it would run really rich at low throttle opening and high rpm