@@jacobhaussmann90 keen!

@@johnnydatsun2730 Yeah I know right! Still got lots of work to do before then, but dreaming of nicer weather!

@@jakethepeasant yes brother cant wait but is near will keep in touch🤙🤝🤝🤝🙏

@@sicks6six I feel like that's a pretty common story with any car of that era! I used to hear loads of stories like that back when I had my mini, but they were notorious for rotting and cheap enough to be disposable back then!

It's probably my favourite colour of Datsun now, nice vintage colour that suits the car and stands out a lot compared to modern stuff that's all black, white or grey!

@@naimatakku will be a little while yet I suspect, but first show is in mid-April so will have to get it done by then! Probably won't be perfect knowing my lack of skill but should be at least as good as the other paint on the car

Yeah it is RHD 👍

@@naimatakku Thanks for the comment! These arches are 1.0mm thick (measured with a micrometer), the guy I got them from did say he asked for thicker than usual but I'm not sure if these are actually any different than the "regular" ones. They welded nicely, thicker than the regular bodywork which is 0.8-0.9mm thick. I've played with 0.6mm wire in the past but didn't really find it too much better for thin stuff, and got a lot of burn back when trying to weld thicker stuff so find myself sticking to 0.8mm for now, I do agree that it does let you do slightly smaller welders on thin stuff though!

@jakethepeasant I got couple of 70's Toyotas and am looking for aftermarket wheel arches, as the arches in the car are gone. I urge you to give it a go again with 0.6 wire. Maybe the problem was wire quality or welder settings. I think the 0.6 is the industry standard

@@Neriusification still got a way to go, but hopefully it turns out nice!

@@oldskool1979 Japan Racing JR6, 15x7, basically a knock-off of Work CR01s, couldn't justify proper wheels as they just get ruined driving through the winter on this car unfortunately

@@da-mazing8500 I'm hoping to source an undamaged one as the metal structure behind is definitely worse for wear! But at least it's in roughly the right shape, all the lights work, nothing is likely to fall off and I've got a license plate!

@@sicks6six Thanks for the input, I agree for joining two wires together yeah solder and heat shrink is pretty good, although arguably potentially brittle but in my experience I've never had a soldered joint crack on a road car. This video is more about connectors though rather than joining straight wires, and for these I generally wouldn't recommend adding solder as it adds time (and expense) and if crimped correctly it won't add any more reliability.

@@turbobobster yeah was a proper "doh!" moment when I realised 😂

The black box on the block is vented to atmosphere as is the cam cover vent, the carbed civics here didn't have vacuum controllers (that's some stuff on the bulkhead isn't it?)

Sorry to hear you crashed it, it looked like a really cool car!

No need for a vr conditioner with a hall effect sensor, my honda has the optional vr conditioner board though as it uses a vr sensor

Cheers

Generally as per this video, trigger set up is normally the biggest hurdle to running spark-only, then high pressure fuel is probably the biggest step on the way from spark-only to EFI. The trick is to break it down into manageable steps.

I haven't (yet), my logic was that it would advance roughly the same as I'll do in the map anyway and hopefully keep the rotor arm Vs electrode in the dizzy cap in the right window, unlike distributors designed for this sort of use the rotor arm isn't massively wide

Yeah that's true but that wouldn't have gained me anything over the previous distributor, the plan is to go Injection and this is just the first step along the way

It's a Dato mate...👌

Yes the 510 was sold here in the UK as the 1600 too! But most people just refer to them as 510s to avoid confusion, I'm guessing they were popular down in Aus as if we want parts for them they generally come from the US or Aus

@@jakethepeasant here in aus they are crazy expensive now because. 1. They are very simple 2. easy to work on when needed 3. great on fuel 4. not a tank, easy to park 5. look great, nice and clean.

@@qwertyui90qwertyui90 yeah they aren't cheap here either, although you might consider them reasonable priced compared to Ford Escorts and BMW 2002s, which are similar cars from the same era. Although back when new they were quite expensive here so didn't sell very well Vs the others, and the ones that did sell have all rusted away since then, so there are extremely few UK domestic cars left, most (including mine) are imports

Good idea! Yeah I did check if they were resistor plugs and they aren't, I'm going to borrow a mates oscilloscope to have better look, but it seems alright as it is for now (although maybe a bit borderline on noise)

@jakethepeasant I do a bit of messing about with both old and new cars like yourself. The ht leads are like 4 big antennas just punching out high frequencies that don't play well with the likes of the speeduino in particular as there is very little hardware filtering. Another one that got me before was a noisy alternator as they were designed before ecus were a thing. You have a new subscriber 👌 Thank you for taking the time to upload your experiences.

Can you recommend any other inexpensive ecu for ignition and efi conversion, which has better filtering for the noise? Looking to do a similar conversion on my ke20

@@naimatakku I think Mega squirt is the only other ECU even close to this budget, and that is no better electrically than this (in fact worse in some ways, it's just an older design) - I think resistor plugs will be a big help, I spoke with a colleague and he had a similar issue with Mega squirt but far worse than I've seen, until switching to resistor spark plugs

@@jakethepeasant thanks for the help good Sir. That 510 looks so cool! And i really liked the video.

Yeah still going! Nearly 30000 miles as a daily since I put the 1.6 in and it's still going well!

Carbs should have 2-3psi above air pressure, so depends what sort of pump you have. Some carb electric pumps will naturally provide this, injection pumps are much higher, around 45psi and will cause the carbs to leak fuel unless you use a regulator

right now it just has a inline 12v pump it runs ok with it no leaks just loud clicking pump thanx for the reply @@jakethepeasant

All the info is in the vid, the only change I had to make was the pitot tube set up on the fuel bowl vents, took a little bit of playing to get the fuelling right but was otherwise standard carbs. No issues with blowing through these carbs, draw through carb set ups are naff and I'd avoid them wherever possible. You will also need a way of bumping the fuel pressure up, in my case I used an electric pump and boost referenced fuel pressure regulator.

I'm using a Speeduino UA4C

Yes they were the original dual keihin carbs that came on these cars in the UK

Yes either detonation or just too high cylinder pressure (which can occur without detonation), electronic ignition with more retarded spark timing would have helped either issue.

@@jakethepeasant I use a translator. I have a 1985 honda prelude with dual carb.I want to go your way with d14. Advise on what boost pressure to stop if I use 98 gasoline. Can I use standard ignition or is it better to switch to programmable ignition.Thanks.

@@90streetstandard always better to change to programmable ignition I think, the d14 isn't a strong engine so I would recommend staying below 0.5-0.6bar. it might be worth talking with this person on Instagram as they have been successfully running a dual carb turbo civic for a while now: instagram.com/kanjo_car_craft?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

@@jakethepeasant ok.спасибо

The front section was custom made to match the turbo and the rear section which is just some cheap no-name stainless thing but I cut the original 4" tip off in favour of some straight 60mm tube.