It seems both the alcohol and the soap dissolved the gold decals. If you plan to preserve what is there, then don't follow this advice or you'll have to repaint. Not sure about the effects of WD40 but Singer says to clean the machines with sewing machine oil and buff to a shine with wax. The use of sandpaper also made me shiver, better use dremel with polishing compound. Or shall I grit my teeth with sandpaper as well instead of brushing with paste?

At 3:34, you are holding the piece (not named) that was removed from the top, above the washer and you show how to remove the “packing”. For reassembly, is new “packing” replacement put back into the piece?

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I’m curious: what does the “90” & “91” mean in “15-90/91”? I have a 1925 Singer 15.

Great video. How do you get the friction wheel to turn freely?

Wonderful demonstration! Thank you

You never use chemicals (windex?) on a black vintage singer - it will ruin the decals. And WD-40? Wow. You're the only one that would recommend that.

You are the best. No gimmicks, loud music, mistakes etc. Thank you for your no-nonsense video.

Oh man-I’m very grateful for your video. Constant problems with thread tension on a machine that is new to me-an old Class 15 Singer knockoff, no name on case or machine, but it looks like an old Singer. With your tutorial, finally fixed thread tension somewhere near the end of my project! (Murphy’s Law?) The key was your instruction at 4:09, where you pushed the dial in, turned screw a quarter turn counterclockwise to reduce tension that is too great overall. Thanks again and a big thumb’s up.

Thanks for this video, it was very clear and concise.

Do you still like the tri flow greaase? Another Singer expert on youtube says its too thick, not to use on sewing machines, and recommends Sew Retro grease. Do you recommend cleaning the windings with an electronic cleaner spray? Thanks for any advice!

These are the best Singer tutorials on youtube. Thanks so much for doing this!

These are the best Singer tutorials on youtube. Thanks so much for doing this!

Thank you very much!

Thanks so much! My Singer 15 M works like a charm again!

WD 40 CONTAINS hydrocarbons simikar to Kerosene AND WILL WEAKEN THE PAINT DO NOT USE on clear coat painted surfaces as it may weaken the vintage paint

How much does it cost to restore a singer similar to this one? Mine has all attachments, manuals, and cabinet, which I would refinish?

Thank you for the videos. I can find no information about the finishes Simanco used on the machines. I would guess it to be black lacquer, covered with shellac for several reasons, compatibility with each other, ease of use, QUICK drying time, and availability to mention a few. Have you any ideas or inklings as to what else it might be ? I igure Japanning up until the late 30s / early forties, then lacquer with shellac clear coat, then different colors, then plastic.

You did not cover removing the motor gear grease wicks and clips and replacing the wicks, which become hard and non functional after 70 years.

I have a 1910 singer treadle. It is in great working condition but I want to restore its appearance. It needs the cabinet restored, which I can do. I want to restore the lacquer and clear coat. I also want to restore the rest of the body in the back of the machine. The part that faces away from you when you're sewing.

When discussing the screws on the worm drive gear itself, for the *201-2” the screws are NOT IDENTICAL”. One screw is longer than the other. Match the LONGER screw to the notch in the armature. In contrast, the shorter screw is a secondary set screw. 😀 Lastly, the END TIP of the armature shaft (motor side) has a MARKING to show the notch of the spindle.

This serious is powerful In clarity! Wow! The idea of loosening and protecting the attachment screws is EXCELLENT! 👏

I thought wd40 was to be avoided at all costs

Thank you! Very kind!

Just bought identical 15-91 at garage sale in same condition but in cabinet. I’m going to clean it using your instruction videos. Should I remove from cabinet before I start?

Horrible advice

From everything I've read, never use any solvent to clean the black shellac finish, and certainly nothing with alcohol or window-cleaning solvents. I start from brushing off dirt with a sort brush (a fluffy face makeup brush is good), being away of never rubbing dirt into the finish. Then clean with sewing machine oil (or food grade mineral oil if it's filthy), again wipe away dirt and I keep using fresh piece of soft cloth so you don't rub the dirt in! (Learnt that in auto detailing class.) Then I will use Original Gojo (non pumice kind) which is a mix of oil for a dirty machine: It will even remove melted insulation wire from the back of the machine with patience and elbow grease. Automotive products can be used for waxing but stay away from anything with a lot of abrasives (watch for the word "compound" and use only the lightest polish you can find). If in doubt, get the Clean and Wax set from The Featherweight Shop as at least you know it's been tested on this surface.

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This was by far the most clear instruction for this. Thank you!

Mine has same legs but two doors that open in front

Where can I get new decals for a model 15 ?

I have a model 15 that is only sewing backwards. Any idea what I can do to fix this

This is an exemplary video. The lighting, editing, narration, pacing, and camera work are all outstanding. I wish I had found this video about 45 minutes ago! I found a very similar machine a few years ago in a thrift shop and bought it. It is clearly a knock-off of this model, and I have not been able to find out where it was made. My guess is it was made in the 50s or early 60s. The case is more modern than this one. The basic instruction manual or pamphlet that was still in the case has no information about the date or location of the manufacture! But it works beautifully and is free of signs of wear or abuse. The parts of this tension assembly are not the same uncompromising quality of the Singer model, but otherwise, they are the same. Mine is an Arrow. Could be British. (?) Thank you for this helpful video.

I really hope I get to play with one of these, you've broken it down so well, everything is clear, I've only ever preserved hand cranks as my treadle is in full working order

Great video, only I'd say never use wd40 as it is a solvent and will dissolve the shellac on black finish machines. Shellac is very tempremntal if chipped and will flake off is any gets underneath. In the UK turtlewax after a light coat of oil is great if not much work needs doing

Fantastic

Thank you for the clear explanation. I have a copy of this machine, identical tension unit. I have done everything you said, several times, but the dial doesn't turn even if I rest the little pin on the thumb nut. It only comes out too far then. What is wrong?

This looks to me like a perfect primer on what not to do in cleaning/ polishing a vintage machine.

Hi, I wonder if you could help me please, I am trying to rewire a Singer 457 but before I can, I have to work out how it is working because I can't find any internal wiring diagrams showing how they work, from what I can work out the internal motor is insulated from the machine using Nylon components and has one side permanent live and the other side seems to be variable neutral through the foot switch, also the capacitor is across the motor terminals, would you agree with this ?

I could not find the #10 video...

Mejor explicación, todas las personas que tenemos estás maquinas , gracias a Ud. Ya podremos arregrarlas y trabajar con ellas, bendiciones.

Thank you for sharing, this is quite helpful.

Are those replica decals?

Wow, ! Great demonstration! Thank You! May I ask when you disassembled the upper tension was the pressure foot in the up position? That to me would seem so, as when it's lowered the tension is engaged, , I couldn't see the lever ,I'm just guessing that it was up! Thank You, I believe I'm ready to do this,, I continually have a upper thread tension issue with mine! lis

Bellissima!!!

I am enjoying your videos. I’m currently on number 6! I do have a question on #4. Did I miss a step when you were talking about removing the packing? I see the packing but don’t see how it was disassembled to get to that part. I just got a 15-91 at an estate sale so I am cleaning it up. It does sew but the underside stitch is awful. Top stitch looks nice. Not sure where the issue is but maybe I will resolve it by watching your videos. Thank you.

Hi, I bought 15-91from yard sale. All the parts are there except foot paddle and connection of it to machine under handelwheel. Don't know how it attach. Moter and light is working. Don't know how moter attach to foot paddle. Watching you tube videos but didn't find any video on this topic. Also don't know where to buy foot paddle and connection. Thanks for the great video. I am totally new to sweing machine.

Why did u stop with just 13 videos. Pl continue. Why does flywheel suddenly stop now and then while stitching. By trial and error sometimes it is perfect but what exactly needs to be done still eludes me

why does it sound like a bot talking? Turned me off right away.

How much to clean and restore mine got it from my dad it was his grandmother's video link kzbin.info/www/bejne/mna1iIlmbdytgc0