Have the fob batteries gone flat?

@@peterroper617 thanks for your reply Peter, yes I have changed the batteries and replaced the fuse on the immobiliser with no success. I just can’t work out why this has failed and if it has something to do with the battery problem. I have a brand new battery now,, but still stumped as to why it no longer functions.

Do NOT touch the plate adjusting screws. Doing so will mean that the interpretation of the entire map will be bolloxed. The only real fix, after fixing the airbox of course and making sure the drains are intact and plugged, is new throttlebodies. If you run an open loop map though you may be able to get it to idle almost reasonably by upping the CO trim to an extreme level. You will pay a price though in engine wear and fuel economy. Is your Stelvio a roller tappet model or has it been rollerised? If it's still running flat tappets the TB's are pretty unimportant to worry about until the tappets are fixed.

8V only

If you're asking do you have to unhook the top sprocket to remove the cambox from the head the answer is yes. If you'd like to see how that's done I've got another video there where I remove the left hand cambox from a Griso. The procedure is identical to the Cali 14 as, apart from the extra spark plug, the engines are almost identical.

Well, sadly, you're a bit stuck. Without the code you can't access the 'Code Recovery' function which, if you have two keys, you can then use to re-set the user code. To the best of my knowledge you currently have two options. Either send the Dash to Carmo in Europe and they can clear the code and when you get the dash back you can program it with your own code. OR, you can buy a new dashboard. Neither option is cheap. If you only have one factory key the first thing I would advise you do, whichever way you choose to go, is get another factory key cut and when you have a working dashboard train the dash to recognise it using the 'Change the Key' function. Also, before you despair try using the last five numerals of the VIN number as this was often used by shops as the code. Also the Service Code was used by some people. If your bike is a Griso the service code is 12425. After that? Try simple combinations. 12345, 54321, 11111. If none of those easy guesses work you're back to 'Plan A'

If you know your user code go to 'Change the key'. It will ask you to enter the code after which it will say 'Insert second key'. Remove the first key and insert the second, new, key and turn the ignition back on. After a second or so it will say something like 'Key saved, insert third key'. You repeat the removal and insertion with the third key. I think you can store up to four keys in the dash, it might be six. Not sure. When you have memorised your last key just remove it and let the dashboard count down to zero and go dead. Leave it for twenty seconds and then when you use any of the keys from then on they should all work.

If you only have one key and don't know the code you're basically up shit creek. To use the 'Code Recovery' feature you need two, working, factory keys. There is a company called Carmo in Europe who can read the current user code if you send them the dash and I believe clear it. It isn't a cheap service but it is doable. Once you have a known code, or it has been reset to the default of five zeroes you can get another FACTORY key, (It must be a factory Zadi key, not an aftermarket replacement.) and then train it to the dashboard using the 'Change the key' function. This will then give you two working factory keys. My own 'Insurance' mechanism for my bikes is to have two working 'Factory' keys which I generally keep stored safely at home and I use a cheaper 'Cloned' replacement for my everyday key. That way if I loose my key or it is stolen I can simply get another one cloned while keeping the security of having two 'Factory' keys so if anything happens to me the next owner will be able to reset the user code using the 'Code Recovery' function even if they don't know my user code.

Email me, we can discuss.

Probably the gasket between the sump spacer and the block has blown out around the delivery gallery to the front main bearing. Drop the sump, remove the oil pick ups and then remove the sump spacer. The damage is usually obvious. The blown gasket doesn't produce any external leaking as the oil simply bleeds back into the sump. When you replace the gasket do not use the stock factory gasket as these are the source of the problem as they are lousy quality and made of a very thin frangible material. You can use a thicker aftermarket gasket with much greater compressibility which allows better clamping and won't blow out. If you are getting a knocking noise along with the camchain rattle, (The chain rattle is caused by the tensioner plungers not getting sufficient oil due to the blown gasket.) it would be wise to drop off the big end caps and inspect the big end bearings while the sump and spacer are off. It is most likely that you will find the shells damaged and in need of replacement. Do it now while the sump is off otherwise you'll be going back in in a few months time.

Thank you very much for your willingness to help. The problem for me is also winter, I have a cold garage;) and I'm waiting for spring. I live in Wrocław and my beloved motorcycle has a garage at my parents' place 100 km away. No service wanted to help, not even the Warsaw Ducati dealer. I have always serviced all the motorcycles I have had myself because it is far from a service station. Yamaha Super Tenere 750, Fazer fzs 1000, crf 250l, cz 350 are simple motorcycles. But to Stelvio a bit of Italian heart. I also recorded a video of firing on a cold and warm engine. Only I have no way to send you a link to KZbin, unless priv to the e-mail address.

The only way to alter the target idle is to do it in the map using Tunerpro or the like. There is no 'Physical' way to change the idle speed. That is controlled by the stepper motor.

@@peterroper617 How to open dashboard to arrow i have a problem with rpm on dashboard when i turn the bike on ignition arrow on the rpm is up to 5500 and go to 0 rpm when i start immediately go to 1500 rpm wait 5-6 sec and go to zero rpm but bike is running ok in the rpm arrow is the problem how i fix it sorry for my bad english

Can't really help much with that. Since I'm no longer an *Official* service agent I don't have access to any new model info really. We've had a couple of V85's through the shop but since my PADS is no longer current I can't re-set the service icon so most people stick with the dealership network. That's one reason why it's a very good idea to think carefully about where you buy and not just go for the lowest price offered or available.

You're welcome to get in touch by email or PM me on Grisoghetto.

I would like to email you. where do I find your email add.

motomoda dot roper art gmail dot com

@@peterroper617 I sent a message on grisogheto below the oil sump article you posted. . still would like to email you. I m not giving up hope on this Guzzi

No 'Probably' about it and the sooner you do it the less chance of further damage.

@@peterroper617 Once I check its not been done & whether it's an A or B kit it's getting ordered. Fingers crossed it's not to bad already. Luckily I can do this myself no worries. Thanks for your guidance on this topic.

@@onewhocansea4228 It will either be a 'C' kit or a 'B' kit. Look at the side of the head that faces into the valley. Close to the manufacturers date stamp, probably partially hidden by the bracket that holds the head to the frame, there will either be, or not be, a drill mark in the black paint of the head. If that drill mark is there it's a 'B' kit bike. If the paint is unsullied then it is a 'C' kit bike and requires the head pulling to insert shims under the inlet valve spring seats. If you visit Griso Ghetto and look for my definitive guide to rollerisation I have covered what kit services which bike in some depth and pitfalls to be avoided.

@@peterroper617 Drill marks are present.

@@onewhocansea4228 Excellent! That means it's a 'B' kit bike. The heads can stay on. With care you can complete the job without even taking the tank off! Email me and I can explain. I'll have lots of time, I've just tested positive for bloody Covid!

If you still have the plastic sleeve on it? Yes! All bikes come with two keys. Both should start the bike whether a user code has been inserted or not. If no code has been inserted you'll get the 'Don't forget to insert your user code' message on the screen at key on. If you don't get that message the dashboard has a code. If you don't know it? Use the code recovery function as described to insert your own.

They’d have to be needle rollers as the component isn’t pressure fed.