Where does the wiring for the generator light start and end because I don't have it on my buggy

Maybe prime the carb with a shot of fuel to get things moving

Great video.got one question?can you put a T on the motor block and run a presure gauge and temp gauge both lines on the same T

From personal experience i replaced my shackles years ago on a silverado. grade 5 bolts i had to buy in a pinch bent (easy removal) after a couple days... so i replaced with grade 8 and after a week one snapped... Depends what you want out of it. From what ive learned, heavy durty shit uses grade 10. Not too often talked about

Hello fellas.where do you buy thoes coper npts??

If you cant push the Scott 1000 in with 2 fingers its too tight. Before Scott 1000 or the Frantz elements all we had was softer 2 ply. We could use the knee trick and use the whole roll. The best place for the ring is in the trash. In the old days all of the major brands fit the Frantz. All had the 1 1/2 inch cores.

Thank you for making this so many years ago!! I’ve referred back to this video several times. I have a C3 Corvette with sidepipes and am trying to temper the noise levels from ‘wake the dead’ to tolerable. My ultimate design is going to be a reverse flow with electric cutouts to have the best of both worlds.

This is interesting. I wonder what Moss says about this.

I see this is pretty old now. Nonetheless it's quite interesting as my plans are to go with an early Ranger rear end in my 1976 TR7. I had also considered making my own bracket and use a Mercury Milan/Ford Fusion rotor. The front end is another conundrum to make the 5 X 4.5 bolt pattern on all for corners.

If u haven't found the fill plug it's on the front side low right half way down. Follow your finger around the bottom about 4-5 inches up you'll touch it

You want the Allen bolt furthest away from the washer

Dude thanks a bunch I'm going to try it now .can you not just hold the nut in front of the pulley for the back up instead of taking the pulley off?

Very informative video, nice to see real world testing 👍🏼

I seen oil filler cap with nozzle to hook oil bipas filter return line, no drilling just bolt on.

The Frantz was designed to use 2ply before Scott 1000 or the Frantz elements. It is obvious the paper you were using was doing its job because of the clean rocker arms. The top loaders are the better design. The Frantz is the best known. I had a Motor Guard on my 66 beetle. I tilted it so the big abrasives wouldnt go back in the engine at shut down. The Motor Guard filtered from the bottom up. Frantz recommended putting the Frantz upside down on the beetle. With my Jackmaster Classic and the Gulf Coast juniors I push the paper in and put on the lid. Went with the improved top loaders in the 80s.

Very helpful. Thanks

The Australian Jackmaster Classic is a lot better design than the Frantz. I made a little change to mine. I drilled out the outlet orifice and put the orifice at the inlet. The normal orifice size is about .060 or 1/16 inch. For the Jackmaster I put a .025 wire welder tip in a brass fitting. The tip is actually about .045 for .025 wire. I was happy with the Frantz until the improved top loaders came. With the Jackmaster Classic you push the paper down against the 1 and 15/16 inch seal. I increased it to 2 and 1/4 inch. The Jackmaster Classic has no tube to put spacers on. Another good filter I use is the Gulf Coast filter. Another good top loader. The Motor Guard on my old Ford 390 is over 50 years old. My old Ford tractor has a flat head Ford V8 canister filter modified to use Scott 1000. It has half a roll of VIVA paper towels in it now.

Great video, very informative, especially liked the discussion of how the pressure relief (short) spring stiffness influences the oil cooler bypass spring-plunger function. The spring stiffness specification, found on Table c in section 1.15.3 in the Official Service Manual for Karmann Ghia, for the short spring is 3.1-3.8 kg (6.8 to 8.4 lbs.) force to compress the spring to 20.2 mm (.795”) and for the long spring is 5.6-7.3 kg (12.3 to 16.1 lbs.) force to compress the spring to 44.1 mm (1.736”). Have you measured the spring stiffness for stock and after market springs in order to match each spring force for desired purpose? I have developed a method for this using my drill press and stop set to the correct spring height under pressure on top of a scale and found there is much variation among all springs.

'media' is plural of 'medium.'

yesterday i took out those plunger to replace the flat "screwdriver" type of head for an allen type screw head and i noticed that the 2 plungers are identical, with no neck cut on the pulley side plunger. do my mechanic put the wrong plungers?

Do you believe the Franz filter has made a difference in the health of the engine ?

Thanks! very helpful ❤

You just saved my ass!! Tank you!! ❤

I think you need a new vise bolt it down with Gr8 bolts😂

I've worked on the same style ice make in two of our refrigerators, and I'm really impressed with the innovative engineering that went into the design.

From What I understand the first pressure relief valve in the rear of the car near the oil pump. Does put all the oil go through the cooler until maximum pressure is achieved then excess will go through the bypass directly to the bearings. The other valve is the actual bypass for full pressure. If the first valve at the rear of the engine sticks, It will put some oil through the bypass do the bearings and some through the cooler which can cause start up oil pressure to be low.....Flickering light. With the spring kit and stiffer springs. It will push more oil through the bearing surface which cannot really hurt much but could may cause excess pressure in the cooler. Those coolers can take some pressure and so can the cooler o rings. It should not make any difference if you use the stock springs or the after market ones. As long as the pistons move freely. The stiff springs may have less chance of sticking open then the stock ones. so this could make your start up oil pressure better if your having problems with oil pressure at start up. Best advice do what you want. and make sure those pistons are not getting stuck. I have the stiff springs and have no issues. only because they have less chance of sticking and will allow oil to go through the cooler only first.

Even after watching this video I somehow still don't understand how the ice is made...

Is that an oil cooler ring around the outside?

Ive been trying to figure out what had been done on my 82 mustamg gt. Apparently thought it had an 8.8 diff..turns out its 7.5 rear brakes So glad i found this video!! Also..did the ranger come with 5 lug axles?

Thanks for the detailed video!!! 😊

Gf- why isn't he texting back? Hes probably out cheating. Meanwhile me on youtube-

7:00 I've read that the orifice was on the outlet side to ensure that it did not become plugged. Seems reasonable to me, though I think that there would be a low probability of that occuring. Clearly, it does not matter where the orifice is from a flow regulation perspective.

how many miles is on that? hipo filters are not ment for oil interval changes.

That is too much rust for bothering with a rebuild.

Those 6 and 12 volt generators are probably the most dependable gens ever made. Only the bearings wear out.

I had forgotten how bad the design of the Frantz is. The top loaders its pretty much pushing the roll down against the bottom and putting on the lid. I had a Motor Guard on my 66 beetle. Never spilled a drop. The oil lines need to not have a low place for the oil to stay and keep the air from entering the filter at shut down. If air cant get up into the filter the oil cant get out.All of my filters drain over night. When I used the Frantz in 1963 Frantz recommended putting the Frantz upside down which was rediculous.

The Australian Jackmaster Classic has no center tube. They use the toilet paper core as a center tube. To keep the core from collapsing you have to use a firm paper like the Jackmaster element or a firm roll like Scott 1000 sheet. The Motor Guard can handle the shorter paper. The old Motor Guards that filtered from the bottom up could use a spacer at the bottom to push up on the core. You need to get a good seal at the top around the core. I still have two Motor Guards over 50 years old. The Frantz is a terrible design but they will get the job done if you know what you are doing.. The top loaders are the better design.

So I just added 12 V to the D+ and it started turning before I even grounded it out. What does that mean?

Great idea! Especially if you come up with the inverted canister type. Those look cool but suffer from the most drain back.

Yesterday I installed a Motor Guard and a KN full flow filter on the Ford tractor hydraulic system. Got the pressure down with a orifice made from a grease Zerk.The spin on filter is to take the flow if there is too much resistance thru the Scott 1000.The hydraulic fluid also lubricates the 12 speed transmission.lots of wear metal. The stock filter is only a screen.

Just changed the Motor Guard on the hydraulic system on the Ford tractor. I like the shorter paper. I push the paper down against the bottom .That is where the core seal is.Its a M30 compressed air filter.filters from the top down. The origional lube oil filter filtered from the. Bottom up. I put a spacer at the botton to push up on the paper.

You can use regulat o rings in the Motor Guard. I got my last ones from McMaster Carr. Viton 4 5/8 by 4 7/8 .Not sure about the T handle.o ring. Been using the compressed air thrust washers. Some kind of nylon. The old lube oil filters used rubber. I can get o rings from a bearing supply here. Probably should get a couple for the Australian Jackmaster Classic. It might outlast me if I keep it clean and dont pinch it. The Jackmaster Classic is a nice filter Better suited for toilet paper than the Frantz. They use a bigger core seal and no center tube. They use a smaller orifice at the outlet.

My Pontiac Torrent hes the top loader Australian Jackmaster Classic. When I changed it the other day it had more than usual large contamination on top of the toilet paper. This means the Wix full flow filter needs to be changed. It has 64.000 miles on it. The 390 in the F250 Ford has a over 50 year old Motor Guard. Motor Guard only makes compressed air filters now. Motor Guard was the only one safe to use for compressed air in the 60s..compressed air can kill you Frantz stuck with that bad design.

The top loaders are so much nicer to service. My 66 beetle had a Motor Guard on the passenger side of the fan and Motor Guard on the driver side for the gasoline. Had the oil Motor Guard tilted so the big metal pieces wouldnt drain back at shut down. The Australian Jackmaster Classic on the Pontiac is a little smaller than the Motor Guard. Nice little filter. Their toilet paper is in a fabric cover.. Their orifice is very small at the outlet. A lot better than the Frantz as far as servicing.They all clean oil. I also like the Gulf Coast junior filter. At one time when Frantz went broke a Frantz dealer came out with a better filter. The famous Frantz 3 stacker was replaced with a single and double filter that takes Bounty Big roll paper towels. Saw a single model on a Army 5 ton. Very noticible bolted to the top of the front bumper.

I have a flat head Ford V8 canister oil filter that I converted to take a full roll of 4 1/2 inch Scott 1000. John Frantz got his start converting the old canister filter to use superior toilet paper. I improved them. The Ford diesel tractor has the flat head Ford filter. The origional Frantz was even harder to change than yours. Saw some Purolator toilet paper conversions on Ebay. Very rare.

Yep! My problem right now. Thank you!

Thanks for the info.. Now I know why my oil filter gasket has blown twice off... Ill be changing back to the stock springs and plungers

That case is junk find something better.

So helpful!

I was lazy and used WD40 and it only lasted about two months 🤣🤟