Any chance you might do a video on reducing the draw weight of a bow correctly. For example if you have a bow that has a minimum option of 40# but you want to take it to 35#. How would you successful do it and have it tuned correctly? I have decided that shooting a 60# bow for indoor shoots is daft now so I want to go to a lower draw weight as 35# is fine for indoor shoots at 20y/18m. All my bowed and arrows are tuned for 59# for many years and fine for outdoors. I cannot get a bow lower than 40# so would be interested in knowing how to do this correctly. I can built a tune a bow to +- a few pounds either side of the spec but would like to see how it is done correctly?

I think with regards to cam serving that is pretty logical GRIV, however, in the real world isn't this asking for accelerated wear through the collection of dirt and grime?

That's and excellent video. There is not mutch video on the net like this one. Thanks a lot from a 2 years and still learning para archer

George. You mention having the elbow behind the arrow vertically. Is what i believe you was saying. When mentioning about alignment and anchor. But what about the elbow position horizontally behind the arrow? Many shooters i see do not have there draw arm elbow inline behind the arrow horizontally.. and are forward or to the right if looking from behind. Kinda like chicken winged out. There are not a whole lot of shooters i see that have good horizontal elbow alignment behind the arrow. could you talk on that please?

Really solid tip, been working on this for the past year, noticed only my right shoulder higher than left for right-hand shooter. However, I anchor first and tend to try to pull my right shoulder blade to the lower middle of back which tends to even out my shoulders, now I'm wondering if I should do it before anchoring?

Brilliant advice, worked first time

Has made a positive difference thanks

Best TAW for me so far! Good stuff GR!

Good stuff GRIV

Fantastic! This addresses exactly what I've been struggling with!

George, are those your indoor arrows? What are they?

Hey GRIV @georgeryals - have you noticed the angle of your peep at full draw? Maybe it's always been that way, but it caught my attention.

This is something I have struggled with off and on for decades.

I’ve always been told wrist should be straight inline with arm, another person I watch who I really admire says a bent wrist will cause a low shot on target because your pulling up on the shot which causes the bow to shoot downward at the shot. Makes sense to me but maybe I’m wrong.

Unreal stuff! Such a great explanation George!

this is very interesting and never thought of this before! if my draw length is too short, would that make it difficult to bring my elbow down? it seems my elbow is always higher than my arrow.

Ive really learned a lot watching these videos. Keep up the good work

I just cut 12 holes in the box that the arrows came in from lancaster lol

What’s the difference between the EZ Green and the EZ press other than the crank wheel and the paint?

I have a question. When I miss while target shooting the majority of the time, it's a low left miss. Im a right-handed shooter, 32" draw length, ultraview hinge release, gen 1 reckoning. What do you think the issue is? Thanks much.

I have been unknowingly drawing my bow like this my whole life.

Why only twist on the yoke of one cable, why not on both? And why only on upper yoke?

George I don't see a way to do the end servings. Is this only good for center serving?

Nice work mister makes perfect sense

You must've bugged our indoor range 😂 was literally chatting about shoulder positioning today

A great topic for sure and IMPORTANT 🏹🏹

Why cam serving is almost always longer then actually needed if it slows down the string?

I like the tip about no serving around the cam area, would benefit target archers, but as for a hunting application, I've found that having the serving around the cam area, helps to protect the string fibers from being damaged ,especially the bottom cam, from sometimes resting the bottom cam on the ground while hunting or when carrying your bow around in the woods. I sometimes find little nicks, dings, scratches, etc. around my bottom cam, that I have to take some emery paper to, and smooth them out, but not too much on the top cam.I think most hunters would be better off, protecting the string fibers, with serving around the cam areas. I love all these videos, Great information !

Love the courage to not serve the string through the cam

Thanks a lot!! Great video again!

Which direction in relation to the string twist should the serving go?

Awesome video as always I've been shooting for many many years I knew that the string weights added extra FPS but never knew the explanation of exactly why other than speed. Also, never knew you didn't need serving around the cams but it totally makes sense . Thanks

In the 80/90's we called that a floating anchor point. My buddy's in Washington State tought me that. Cool to see that your teaching this process.

The crossbow press says it will handle up to 32” ATA that being said my Mathew’s Halon is 30” ATA so technically I could use the press for bows as well 32”ATA and lower? Only reason I ask is I found one local to me on facebook marketplace stupid cheap.

Griv just curious can you shoot bow ? Asking for a friend big Jim Despart

OK cool I do all of that for my students. However with every female I have taught, and even some young boys, they tend to hyperextend their arm causing the elboe to rotate inward and wham-o. How do you address that?

George I am extremely looking forward to your video on a hinge. I struggle a lot with shooting a hinge and getting my hand shape consistent on a hinge and where I anchor on my face. I’m having trouble being consistent with that. I also do not understand the concept of a flat hand when shooting a hinge and how flat my hand should be and how deep to wrap my knuckles in the hinge. Please make that video. Thank you

Good! I really enjoy watching these. I've learned a lot and I've been shooting archery since 1984😮

George thanks for the video. Is there a reason why so many shoot hinge or button release aids. I tried both and my accuracy was very poor with them. I was unable to get a good anchor point. I use an index finger release aid Stan solex. I don’t punch the trigger, I use a surprise release method and my accuracy has been decent. But I just need to know will using an index release correctly rob me of accuracy vs a handheld release aid such as thumb button or hinge. Thanks.

😅 great stuff, George

Second last tip, words to live by.

purple loctite has worked for me. it's harder to find, but low strength for the exact reasons you mentioned.

Does the node sitting on the rest only apply to blade rest and not drop downs? And no matter the rest sight relation, my torque tune doesn't change and is always good.

Can you do a video on how to get sponsorships please

Thks

As a former student of George for in person lessons, I can tell you this this is a game changer.

“String Torquing”….😏

Hold it like a compound !

Subscribed!

Wow…just in time. One of my concerns on my draw was that the string was not in-line with my d-loop resulting in my bow tilting to the sky. I just didn’t like it I was going to try to come up with something to satisfy my ocd and get that draw string more on plane but you guys seem to have helped me here immensely. I can’t wait to get one!!!