How does shadows from a tree that is quite far away affect it, probably doesn't have the same effect.

In presentation he said that Battery monitor can be used with kilovault battery, please explain how, any diagram or guid?

How the lithium batteries communicate with the Schneider inverter like giving SOC to the inverter. Also , how the charging is managed? Or there is no connection with the BMS of the batteries with the inverter

eminem?

Clearly explained 😅😊😊😊

ATL E is out of business and no longer sell these batteries. I own two and frankly I am not impressed with AGM batteries at all. My lead acid and LiFEPO4 work better for high amperage use.

Thanks for the video. I love your store also btw, I shop there. I think for most people instead of using panels that are split in half and paralled (32x2 on 1 panel) it would make more sense for people to perform the same test with full panels and pretend they are just one big panel (which some are, the non split ones). So for example you should use 4x panels, wire 4x in series, do the shading test, connect 4x parallel do the test, then use 8 panels to do a series parallel connection and do the test. I believe most of use DIYers have been told that the best way to deal with shading with lots of panels is to do x number of panels in series and then the same amount in series and parallel those two connections to minimize your loss. That can be done with combiner cables (fused) or a combiner box for even more strings. Wouldn't that be the best scenario for ensuring you are getting the most power? Series/parallel same number of panels in each string (same type of panels too)? This is what I've been told in many forums and reading other posts, also for say East / West / South facing panels. I'm doing a DIY off-grid setup in my back yard and throughout the day different parts suffer from bigtime shading. So the plan is to initially put 6 panels in an area least impacted by the shading all day, 3x series and another 3x in series to a combiner box (making them parallel 3s2p), then with the remaining 6 panels I have (total of 12) I was planning on placing 3 in series in a spot that gets good light for a good portion of the morning, and the other 3 in an area that gets afternoon sun for a total of 3s4p to my combiner box. Minimizing the shading loss. This may not yield the highest "peak" output but it should give me more of a flatter power curve through out the day giving me more power overall. Or is that not the right approach? I have an MPPT that can handle the amperage and voltage. Would love to hear your thoughts. Cheers and thanks again. I'm actually heading over to your website to see if there are any goodies I need that I can purchase! Im just about ready to bring the first 6 panels online. Wood frame is mostly complete! I charge 48V batteries, I have several of them, I don't connect anything to the grid, and I dont have say a proper larged sized ESS. The 48V packs are usually around 4-5kWh and I connect them to various items around the house with a proper inverter and fusing and all that fun stuff. Once I finish my last battery pack (16s2p at 48V) and build a custom enclosure for it I am going to focus on then buying batteries with more capacity so I can build a powerfull ESS. Something that will hold 2-3 days worth of power. But I am super looking forward to being able to pump more amps faster into my current packs. Right now a wimpy 4x100 watt PV system is charging them at a peak of maybe 6 amps. Seeing that number jump dramatically and the reduced charge time is going to be glorious! The batteries are rated for over 100A continious so no worries there. My SCC will only spit out 60A at 250v Max input. Still its going to put my first attempt at solar to shame!

Can that be mounted in the inverter? It seems the CCs could attach to the main feed lines out of the inverter and it could communicate to the MODBUS and sit inside the inverter. Thinking about the Primo 10K I have, do-able? If not, I suppose a weather proof outbox could be mounted next to the inverter to house this and all the cabling run through, right?

How do you get them to come out of standby?

Id like to build some software for you guys.

I have had a solar charger system in my van for 3 years now and this morning the 2 solar charge controllers was dead because I had them disconnected from the LifePo4 battery bank when not in use. So I flipped the switch to connect them to the battery and they woke up showing all normal except they was both making a hissing sound and smoke was coming out of them... I disconnected the battery but they both kept smoking and hissing for 30 seconds while I tried to unscrew the power from the solar panels. I measured the voltage from both bank of panels and it was normal 80v, but the battery charge voltage measured 77,7v and not the normlal 24 to 28,8v. Both solar charges did show no error codes and all seemed normal except they reported a battery voltage of 42v (actually 77.7v) while at same time indicating they was set at 24v charging... I guess both chargers is literally fired and I have no idea why it happened. All instruction say connect battery first but in this case all the vires in is always connected and you only disconnect the battery to avoid overcharging and avoid it trying to charge when colder then 0c.

Hernandez Mary Thompson Margaret Jackson Larry

Never thought I'd be getting excited about a *solar charger* 😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣 😎

How about ribbon pullers?

At this point in time 8/21/24’ we are investing in a Insurance Policy. If the grid is attacked we are either out of power or we can be self powered. Living as we do in the Backwoods of Montana. Having power is critical to maintaining life as we’ve always been used to.

When I follow your calculations, the battery bank to be charged is 16986 Wh and as such the solar panels must be 16986/(0.67x2.8)=9.054 or 10 solar panels.

What’s the torque on the solar panels?

I'm researching a battery for the new 8kw system to run a 5kw air conditioner of a night time during the 6 hot months.

megohmn or milliohmn? mega would be a very high resistance I would think it should be quite low resistance?

RIP Amy

What about litum battery?

I know this was seven years ago, but it answered the question I've been asking. I have 6-100 watt 12 volt panels paired in series and then wired in parallel to make 3- 200 watt 24volt panels. I only have room to add one panel and didn't know how it would work. So now I see that I could get a 200 watt 24volt panel and wire it in parallel it should work ,thanks

OL means (open loop)

Me interesa me gustaría saber precio Batería gracias

Where can I get the HAB-It app?

This video is excellently what I was looking for. Straight to the point. 😊

Hello FOA,, thanks I'm confusing how it will fully charge the battery and I have load all the time? I think it will keep be keep in high volt of bulk charging, And this will damage the battery storage, So, please advise what is solution Thanks

Hello FOA,, thanks I'm confusing how it will fully charge the battery and I have load all the time? I think it will keep be keep in high volt of bulk charging, And this will damage the battery storage, So, please advise what is solution Thanks

I love your explanation....i have a question...the question is some of my solar panels had problems (voltage drop)in each of them(all).finds out the diodes are bad (changed all) while some work and others stil maintain voltage drop... please need your help..thanks from Nigeria.thanks.

Hi am from Nigeria..

SHE EXPLAINED EVERY THING SO WELL

great info. thanks

RIP.

and as you mentioned surge AC then why didn't you take into consideration in wh

hay dear, can you provide a certificate of solar course ??

Well done 🎉😊

how to wire mismatch solar panel

Oh God, is that a dude?

Best explanation. I had to do series parallel on my solar flex 200 that came with RV. Couldn’t get the full 600W. I used this video & Jimi rigged with 2 to 1 connectors thanks Amy

What brand and amperage charge controllers?

Would anyone have any details of how I could get the software update for these batteries ?

I think there is something wrong with your charge controller. With an AGM solar battery you should be charging at above 14.4V. I have a CTek D250SA and that outputs 14.65V typically to the AGM battery. 12.65V is less than float charge.

I’d say the power losses would be due to the internal resistance on the solar battery you are charging. You have to look at the entire system.. The state of charge of the battery would also determine the current draw.

Great

Dónde se puede conseguir soporte con la aplicación. Nadie responde en ningún sitio.

Great information, exactly what I was looking for

I see you don't sell it anymore what is a replacement

It must have a transformer in inverter

No warranty on any of these batteries now as AltE has stopped trading.

I would hope most of the roofs damaged in wind storms and tornados the past few weeks are replaced with metal roofs. Actually, the insurance companies may require it.