Thanks!

Absolutely, it’s on my list!

@@78SilverBronco ohh perfect!! Thank u!!

I’m running 285/70/17 BFG AT’s with a 1.5” crank up front and 2” blocks in back

Thanks! I got them from Mac’s auto parts online. Although Falconparts is a great vendor I’d order from again in a heartbeat. Very worthwhile to upgrade the master cylinder to a ‘67 mustang drum/drum master if your doing brakes.

Thanks!! I definitely agree, lots of garbage in the aftermarket, nothing really tailored to off-road other than flimsy lift kits. I just finished up swapping the front knuckles in from a 2000 and brake calipers/rotors from a 2007. Really helped the stopping power but I’m dealing with some alignment issues as a result (maybe a little bump steer too). Still sorting that one out.

Thanks! I just did a brake upgrade myself. I sourced knuckles from a 2000 Tahoe, brake calipers and rotors from a 2007, and did a full front suspension rebuild. They clear 17’s and stop much better than factory. I’m also running the 2000-2006 master cylinder.

@@78SilverBronco great info! I'll be making parts calls on Monday! This is a big help! Thanks so much!

No problem! Glad to help! You will need to also snag the brake hoses for a 2000-2006 and run an adapter from 3/8 to 7/16 brake line inverted flare fitting. If you can’t find an adapter (I made one) just get a stainless braided hose. If you run into any snags just ping me on the comments and I’ll try to help. I should’ve done a video on it, but it’s fairly straight forward

The upper ball joint hole on the 2000 knuckle will need to be reamed out with a 2 degree per foot tapered team. Very easy to do, I got one on Amazon for $65. Put it in my drill and went slowly until the 88-99 balljoint seated on it.

@@78SilverBronco Im on it! Great info...

Thank you! I really appreciate the kind words. I was pretty happy with the end result, it was a fun project!

Great eye! Yes, the wheel is a 65 C10 and the horn button is a 51 Pontiac. I 3D printed a small adapter to mount the two together.

@@78SilverBronco Thanks. Yeah, I own a '64 C/10 that I restored 25 years ago. I recognized the horn button from my childhood days in the 1950s when my dad bought a '54 Star Chief. Fond memories.

Totally agree. Not something I felt in the wheel, but noticed it after the fact watching this video. I’ve got new mevotech stuff ready to go on and some solid hex tie rod adjusters. I’m hoping that cures some of the play. Probably will do a forged idler arm at some point as well. Doesn’t show very well in the video but this was very steep

Thanks!!

Awesome man! Wish I’d kept that inline 6 in there, lots of character with those old stovebolts.

Thanks man!!

Thanks! They are really great rigs for camping and light off-roading. Very comfy, good AC and quiet inside. I hear ya on that white paint, but hopefully it easy to match. My dash is starting to split and there isn’t much I can do to prevent it. It’s too bad some of the age related things we have to deal with on these old rigs.

Thanks! I’ve had it about 9 years now, it’s been a great little car

Thanks! What are your plans with your ‘50?

Thank you! Yeah I agree, you really can’t beat the styling of the 49-52 Chevys!

Thanks! I did a 2” tapered block in the rear and a torsion crank up front. Not much difference in ride, I only raised it about 1.5” in the front. Pretty capable for what it is, the biggest limitation is the true trac rear diff. I highly recommend a selectable locker after pushing the true trac to its limits.

@@78SilverBronco​​⁠is the true trac an aftermarket Locker ? Is it like the gm g80 Eaton or different ? Sweet vid btw, keep Em coming , 96 Burb here 4x4, but no locking rear, but want one

​@@bradc5433 Yeah the true trac is an aftermarket mechanical limited slip. It’s a Torsen style diff whereas the G80 is an inertia locker and generally pretty fragile. I just picked up an ARB air locker and plan to see how that works out. The true trac was great up until you fully unload a tire, then it just spins. Most people say you can modulate brakes to make it lock, but if your already articulated with limited traction, applying the brakes is the last thing you really wanna have to do.

@@78SilverBronco ok interesting thanks for this info and your quick reply. Also do you think I could add that swing out spare even though my burb has the fold down tailgate ? Or does it require the barn door set up like yours ?

Thanks! It took a bit of work to get it looking halfway decent but fortunately parts are pretty inexpensive for these. They are actually decent for overlanding, lots of room for sleeping inside and hauling gear. The big drawback is that 10 bolt rear axle, if you can snag a 14 bolt SF and run a selectable locker, there isn’t much that will trip you up on the trails.

I actually picked up a 1996 Tahoe 4x4 on October last year and a couple months later I found a 1998 gmc Yukon in perfect condition and I pulled the trigger and also bought it 😂 yes the 4x4 is more beat, but with 158k miles I plan to use it to go camping with and usually this trucks seem to go up 300k miles so why not 😁🙏🏼

That’s awesome! Any big plans for it so far?

Just got a 49 2 door with an inline 6 trying too figure out how too swap it out with a sbc 350 without changing the whole front end.

@@78SilverBronco plans for the Fox are up in the air. I'd like to maybe do the strut braces and perhaps upgrade the brakes a bit but otherwise he had it exactly how he wanted it so I want to keep it that way. No, the Camaro's engine was put in by a previous owner in the 80s. Id like to keep it flat tappet for nostalgia purposes but I just don't know yet.

Thanks!