1950 Chevy Styleline Rat Rod

[@eddievilla1584]

WOW! you do great work. I like that you left it looking like a sleeper. no one would think it had a power house under the hood. Great looking old car. It's your time traveler.

[@78SilverBronco]

Thanks man! Really appreciate that! I'm kind of a hack, this was the first project car I learned on but it was a lot of fun getting it on the road!

[@USAFMXVET]

Awesome ride. I have a 52 I am about to go down the exact same path. Great to see what others have done.

[@andrewvitale2556]

Sir the car I've been dreaming about you have. She is perfect really nice job. Thanks for sharing.

[@78SilverBronco]

thanks! Hopefully i'll have the interior buttoned up this year.

[@ibelieveican3138]

I have the same car! The original engine, the 216, had a cracked block so I pulled it out. The car also came with a 1956 235 engine, transmission, carb, etc... on a pallet. I've taken that off to a machine shop to have them give it a good look-over. I tore out the interior and working that area over pretty good. And then I'll go from there. I'm low budget on this one, so I'll be just putting her back together and making sure the breaks are good. It had a new gas tank and radiator when I got it so I'm happy about that. I just love the look of these late forties early fifties Chevys. Thanks for posting! I'll have to make a video once I get her running... It needs a complete rewire too.

[@78SilverBronco]

Thats rad! The 216 was seized in mine when I got it, so we left it at the farm we pulled it out of the field at. Very cool to start such a cool project! Nice work! Those mid 50's 235's are pressurized I believe so it should last a long time! Definitely some of the best lines on any of the 40s and 50s cars!

[@osvaldoramirez8431]

@@78SilverBronco are u running on 15 inch tires?

[@justintime2277]

I really like it.. good job! 👍From Cadillac Michigan

[@78SilverBronco]

thanks!!

[@ursamajor7645]

Classic shape !

[@Budget.Hot.Rodder]

I got one of these cars to. I noticed you were missing the radio plate. I got one if you want it you can have it

[@78SilverBronco]

@leadsled50 thanks man! I got all that stereo stuff wired up after this vid and mounted a blue tooth board behind the old stereo face and got it all working. I built a trailing arm setup to replace the leaf springs which were junk. The old 8.8 axle was toast so I figured why not try something else. I put up a video showing some of it because I’ve got nothing better to do while “sheltering in place” haha

[@Budget.Hot.Rodder]

@@78SilverBronco oh heck yes

[@fixedroofcoupe]

Love it!

[@78SilverBronco]

thank you!

[@licha5050]

2 cool man dig the car!

[@78SilverBronco]

Thanks!

[@JoKeR-ru5dk]

Nice homie 👊🏽

[@78SilverBronco]

Thanks!

[@robertpeck6916]

Good job!

[@78SilverBronco]

Thanks!!

[@steve20664]

Love this, it would really piss off my neighbours too if I had one. 😎

[@78SilverBronco]

One of my neighbors is not a fan! haha

[@danielhall3105]

Good on ya.

[@billharden7127]

Good job. 👍

[@78SilverBronco]

Thanks Bill!

[@Ian-of9oi]

Build looks clean. I like it. Are you running seatbelts? None of my builds have seatbelts but now that I’m getting older I’m thinking about putting them in. Want to take my kid on the highway but feel reckless.

[@78SilverBronco]

Totally understand that! I'm running a set of the RetroBelt's from summit racing in the front and rear. They are just lap belts, but they look good and seem well built. They come with large fender washers so you can mount them in the sheet metal of the floor.

[@buddygallagher1193]

Good job man

[@78SilverBronco]

Thanks!

[@nunyabizness199]

I would enjoy alot more if I had it 😁 Nice !

[@78SilverBronco]

Thanks! It's pretty fun to cruise in!

[@TheLovemachine144]

@@78SilverBronco how much do you want for it?

[@78SilverBronco]

@@TheLovemachine144 Not for sale right now, thanks though!

[@bossmodetubby]

Wow that's amazing bro! What method did you use to lower it?

[@78SilverBronco]

Thanks! The mustang 2 setup lowers it 4" from stock height, plus the 2" drop spindles for a total of 6" in the front. In this video I had 3" drop leaf springs in the rear w/2" blocks. I had all types of axle wrap with the leaves, so I'm now running a trailing arm setup with ridetech coil overs and I'm down about 7" in the rear. I had to tunnel the driveline area under the rear seat and step notch the frame, but its great now. No axle wrap and handles much better than the leaf springs.

[@bossmodetubby]

@@78SilverBronco sweet! I was planning on cutting my front coils 1 1/2 and putting 4" blocks in the rear I have the same car as yours

[@78SilverBronco]

@@bossmodetubby Oh right on! Are you planning on sticking with the stock suspension up front? Ive seen a few guys step the control arms and run the fatman (or maybe Jamco) factory kingpin style 2" drop spindles to get the front end low. The factory front end definitely rides much nicer than the Mustang 2. Overall the mustang 2 is great for handling, but you really sacrifice ride comfort. Also, most vendors are junk, so be careful if you go that route. Given the chance to do it over, I would look at a stock or semi-stock solution. The Lexus SC400 and the 70's-87 Jaguar XJ6 front ends are great options. I would also consider Fatman ultra low, as its rear-steer and you gain a lot of clearance to run power steering. Is your rear axle stock torque tube style right now? Sounds like a fun project! I miss working on mine. All the fab and repair work was pretty fun.

[@bossmodetubby]

@@78SilverBronco honestly I'm learning as I go its my first classic and I'm pretty new to mechanics.I absolutely love how yours looks I'm on a tight budget so I'm trying to go the cheap route until I'm able to get the mustang 2 to eventually airbag it which I assume I'll need to do some serious modification.

[@78SilverBronco]

@@bossmodetubby They are great cars to start with, very simple to work on. Does yours still have the inline 6? The 6's are great engines. The mustang 2 setups are fairly easy to install and some are a bolt on setup which makes things very easy. If you go bags, its very important to use the correct upper control arm bushings. Many of the upper control arms nuts will back out with the constant air up/air down of the suspension and can be pretty dangerous. If you plan on running the stock setup for awhile, 2" drop spindles and cut coils are probably the best way to go. With drop spindles, you dont get bump steer, which is really nice.

[@jpsapartmentcustom9541]

Cool 😎😎😎😎😎 😍😍😍

[@specialized29er86]

Are rust repair panels available for them? l love these 50's cars there like them derelict cars but on a budget.

[@78SilverBronco]

You can buy the repair panels from EMS, these cars are pretty known for rust in the rockers/quarters/trunk, thin sheet metal and poor drainage of water. The floor braces were completely full of dirt when I cut off the inner rocker panels, amazing they werent rusted as well. I agree! Those Icon Derelict videos made me fall in love with the patina cars but I knew I'd never have the money to buy one.

[@johnbockelie3899]

License plate frame reads: " What the hell, ...it runs."

[@doriataylor9147]

Nice!

[@Driftwoodhotrods]

How hard was it to swap to a c10 steering column?

[@78SilverBronco]

It wasn't too bad. The biggest challenge was the length of the C10 column is about 4" too long for the seat location. I ended up pulling the center shaft out and the shift tube so I could shorten everything up. I used a piece of angle iron and welded 4 opposing sides of the center shaft to prevent distortion, then fully welded it. The change in length aligned the shift selector perfectly with the cutout in the firewall. I used one of the old 3 speed shift rods and massaged it to fit the 700r4. The tricky part is the firewall support brace. A lot of guys use the billet bearing supports which I wasn't a fan of. I used the Ididit 2401300010 column mount (although the speedway one looks a bit nicer). You can clearance the inside diameter of the original upper column on the dash mount with a flapwheel to fit the C10 column. Are you running a mustang 2 IFS?

[@tommckeemckee9865]

Did you change the front suspension and if so what did you use?

[@78SilverBronco]

Chassis Engineering Mustang II kit. Not happy with it, but it gets it low. If I were to do it over, I'd go with a fatman kit, or build one from scratch.

[@blackscreen9926]

🚘

[@chuckmarquart]

Don't reveal your flaws..... The only person that can see them is you.....

[@blackscreen9926]

You know where i can buy parts for a chevy 210 1954

[@78SilverBronco]

chevs of the 40's sells stuff for these cars. they have a website and ship all over the world. Old Car Parts in Portland also sells a lot of parts for these cars and has a very good selection, he also ships parts all over. Oil Burning Toys on ebay I believe sells quite a few as well.

[@ednorris372]

Real nice car similar to what I am building. You mention you used a Ford Explorer rear axle. Was it from a 2 wheel or 4 wheel drive version?

[@78SilverBronco]

All of the 1996-2000 ford explorer and mercury mountaineers came with the same axle, its a 59.5" wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface disc brake rear axle. The earlier explorers (1995 and newer) had a 59.25" drum brake rear axle. They came in 3.55, 3.73 and 4.10 gearing with 3.73 being the most common. If you find one with the tag, be sure to check for "L" in the ratio designation. Mine is a 3.73L for limited slip. Also, the axle in the video was bad, the pinion bearing was wasted and a lot of other parts were toast. If you find one, check the pinion play. If there is anything more than 1/32nd inch or so, I would pass on it. I replaced mine with another junk yard unit and did trailing arms at the same time and it has been great. Good luck!!

[@78SilverBronco]

The pinion on the explorer axle is offset to the passenger side 2". Its not a big deal if your not going very low, but if you lower it 5-6", especially with leaf springs, you will likely need to clearance or massage the driveline area under the rear seat. I was still able to use the rear seat, I just trimmed back the metal grating on the seat around the driveline tunnel and it fit perfect.

[@oldchicago3216]

Is it for sale?

[@78SilverBronco]

Not for sale, but I’ve been driving it and enjoying it!

[@licha5050]

i am building a 51 chevy 327 mastang 2 350 auto

[@78SilverBronco]

thats rad! what mustang 2 kit are you using?

[@chuckmarquart]

Lift the car up a little bit in the back to give it a 3ﾟ stance it would make it a lot better looking .......

[@xcesar4impx666]

not a " ratrod" just an unrestored untouched Original state ,

[@toddadams8420]

I dunno, I would bet it was born with a straight 6 so I feel like its a hot rod

[@CM-sy6ud]

stupid comment. it's 100% rat rod. it's low it's got patina. I'd love to hear what you consider a true rat rod though. 🤡

[@xcesar4impx666]

@@CM-sy6ud a true " RAT ROD" its tak welded JUNK!

[@osvaldoramirez8431]

Is it on 14s stock or 15s?

[@78SilverBronco]

Its on 15's with a 215/70/R15 tire

[@osvaldoramirez8431]

@@78SilverBronco what lug pattern are those brother?

[@78SilverBronco]

@@osvaldoramirez8431 These wheels fit both 5x4.5 and 5x4.75. I'm running 5x4.5 all around on it.

[@osvaldoramirez8431]

@@78SilverBronco thank u brother god bless