no walk up, for an easier lead you can either lead jeff's right(3) or magically(3/4), then traverse the ledge right to get to the CAGI anchors. my buddy solod magically and brought me up

​@troytimmons thanks duder!

Beartooth Alpine Master Scratchers with a hammer. Really good picks. beartoothalpine.com/products/master-scratcher-no-hammer?variant=49472206635329

Grazie!!

It’s a classic, Glad you recognized it!

it's a 60m. Some ppl had said a 70m barely reaches but we trusted the guidebook (thanks JoJo) and it worked out barely.

@@troytimmons Gotchya. yeah from just the video its hard to tell

thank you for noticing😊 (95 words/minute btw)

Bro what do you mean he climbs erratically? LOL

@ kicking excessively, swinging at random ice far off to the sides, some what random rushed tool placements, you can see it becomes more erratic as he gets pumped, getting closer to the edge of loosing control. Its a good lead, impressive work, but undoubtedly pushing close to out of control, very strong guy, but perhaps more strength then experience on ice.

More fireball shooters!

thank you for taking the time to watch and following along on the progression. I'm gonna blame the erratic climbing on my ADD and having to move fast in the 7F temps.

@@MaskedAscent I mean hes gotten better, but this one he was much more methodical. Def taking more time even in cold shit conditions. It happens to everyone, look at Steve Houses solo of repentance. There are few people on the planet who have done what he has and it shows everyone gets desperate. Troy here had some good pieces in. He seems to be aware of risks and looks to be mitigating them more and more. But you can def tell a difference watching most wi5 climbers in terms of erratic movement or lack there of. Again, not taking away from this young man's strength and climbing head. And general skill. I can really see this guy going far as he grows. Troy is sooo much stronger than that dude John Murura when he first came on the scene and look how far that guy has gone. This channel rocks and I am looking forward to seeing this guy continue to crush it!

good news is the boa hasn't exploded yet. They are perfect for lower 48 ice climbing. warm for the cold days and light enough for the 30-40F days as well. quality is lacking for such a pricey boot, fraying around the zipper and the toe cups are cracked. they climb super well though just wish the QC was better

i'm trying to get him on the 3M 8067, it's the answer

but still slow it down a hair and you will be a true jedi...

thanks dude, the production value is on the up and up

oh sweet, yeah dude i was there dec 19-23. probably going back in january

@troytimmons nice, we must have crossed paths! I was there 12/18-22! Back in Oregon, where you from?

you're ... negativity ... is ... kinda ... bumming ... me ... out ...

@troytimmons not as much as that reality check of a ground fall will be for you

the first piece is placed just above the fracture line for the pillar, this thing falls over regularly and it's not smart to place protection low on free standing pillars. read gadds "Ice Climbing" or Banfields "How to Ice Climb". You can learn a lot from those if you're curious how the whole thing works.

@troytimmons ha..not curious.. I know Will...and knew him way before he was good enough to write about it. If you don't know who u are talking to...and they are trying to give u life saving advice...its best for you just to quietly try to learn from the advice than to type any kind of response... And Alex and I were playing on that in like93 or 94 or so....so there's that

@@sanjuanworm666 i get what your saying, if you had started with "i was playing around on that pillar with THE alex before you were born, and based on your shitty climbing technique you should've been on the ground in a pile rather than clipping the chains". I get that and i respect that. I'm currently operating on a string of confirmation biases so thanks for taking the time to instill some doubt in myself.

not dumb. ideally not by falling, near the end you see the anchor i clip into, there's already a couple quick links and a carabiner up there. I take one rope pull it through and then tie the other rope to it, then rappel on both strands. then just pull one of the strands and get the rope back

@troytimmons Thanks, you guys must have some awesome upper body strength.

The new beartooth picks are no joke, pretty sure this was the first day on my front points/picks after tuning them up.

Thank you very much! Felt really solid on this ones.

showa temres 282-02, and my other gear is also in the description

a fall would be very not chill. the shot at the very end shows how high the first screw was. i saw conrad climb it and put my first piece at the same height

stay tuned👀👀

well that's the easiest way to get mileage on 6s (climbing a 5 super inefficiently). thanks for the kind words

was so trippy watching them come down behind the new ice. natures lava lamp

ty! more to come

Thanks man!

been trying to be better about that on thin mixed. I gotta channel my inner master scratcher with the new picks

what's my paygrade? and what made this sketchy?

@@troytimmons Your footwork and movement. Moving quickly off of not so great feet when there are better options. The go pro does make it look like your gear is more spaced out than it is. You have more potential that 99% of ice climbers on youtube and your content is great. That FA footage is astounding. I would just work on your movement. Both sticks with tools and feet. Couple times your footwork simply does not look like a wi5 leader. Lack of deliberate precise feet. Some sticks with your tools are looking a little desperate too. You fitness is great but still breathing pretty heavily. I would want someone to be honest. Not trying to be a d. Good thing is you are close to being like an amazing, amazing ice climber.

@@user-ky4jp8jf2pi appreciate the honesty. If I waited to climb this thing until i could climb it perfectly i wouldn't have been able to climb it this season. It rarely forms like this and it's my first time truly limit climbing on lead for ice. The pump management in the section around the first screw was abysmal, so i agree with that but i didn't want to edit it out (maybe i should have) like cmon i chose a spot where i couldn't even put in the screw. This was the 4th day in a row where i led my new hardest climb (4- to 4 to 4+ to 5), but i was feeling psyched and went for it without ever feeling like i was gonna come off. The gopro doesn't really do justice to how the sticks feel in the ice especially on the hooked out holds. despite the chando it felt really solid. The scariest thing that day was seeing some of the old screw holes really low on the pillar. I like to climb fast which is a shock for most people on ice, if it feels good for bodyweight i move on the sticks, also i've been trying to stop overdriving my tools and front points cause most of the time is entirely unnecessary and is a huge energy drain.

@@troytimmons I gotchya. Im just saying from a risk managment position lol sounds weird but its true. So a couple times you are rushing and essentially moving off of one tool/foot cus the other foot/tool is either off or kinda pops. With ice you are going to have ice break and hit your tools/feet sometimes. It's also inevitable that a mediocre stick /fot will pop if you move too quickly off of it. So eventually you are going to fall. But I am thinking you will start to slow down next year and get even stronger/more cognizant. And also take what I say with a grain of salt Im really a trad climber more than anything.

so when ice breaks and hits poorly placed tools/feet they will pop I meant

these are the showa temres 282-02s