Bingo World (WI5 R?) | Hyalite Canyon, MT

[@andreiverdeanu1219]

Way above your paygrade. Sketchy lead 😮

[@troytimmons]

what's my paygrade? and what made this sketchy?

[@user-ky4jp8jf2p]

@@troytimmons Your footwork and movement. Moving quickly off of not so great feet when there are better options. The go pro does make it look like your gear is more spaced out than it is. You have more potential that 99% of ice climbers on youtube and your content is great. That FA footage is astounding. I would just work on your movement. Both sticks with tools and feet. Couple times your footwork simply does not look like a wi5 leader. Lack of deliberate precise feet. Some sticks with your tools are looking a little desperate too. You fitness is great but still breathing pretty heavily. I would want someone to be honest. Not trying to be a d. Good thing is you are close to being like an amazing, amazing ice climber.

[@troytimmons]

@@user-ky4jp8jf2pi appreciate the honesty. If I waited to climb this thing until i could climb it perfectly i wouldn't have been able to climb it this season. It rarely forms like this and it's my first time truly limit climbing on lead for ice. The pump management in the section around the first screw was abysmal, so i agree with that but i didn't want to edit it out (maybe i should have) like cmon i chose a spot where i couldn't even put in the screw. This was the 4th day in a row where i led my new hardest climb (4- to 4 to 4+ to 5), but i was feeling psyched and went for it without ever feeling like i was gonna come off. The gopro doesn't really do justice to how the sticks feel in the ice especially on the hooked out holds. despite the chando it felt really solid. The scariest thing that day was seeing some of the old screw holes really low on the pillar. I like to climb fast which is a shock for most people on ice, if it feels good for bodyweight i move on the sticks, also i've been trying to stop overdriving my tools and front points cause most of the time is entirely unnecessary and is a huge energy drain.

[@user-ky4jp8jf2p]

@@troytimmons I gotchya. Im just saying from a risk managment position lol sounds weird but its true. So a couple times you are rushing and essentially moving off of one tool/foot cus the other foot/tool is either off or kinda pops. With ice you are going to have ice break and hit your tools/feet sometimes. It's also inevitable that a mediocre stick /fot will pop if you move too quickly off of it. So eventually you are going to fall. But I am thinking you will start to slow down next year and get even stronger/more cognizant. And also take what I say with a grain of salt Im really a trad climber more than anything.

[@user-ky4jp8jf2p]

so when ice breaks and hits poorly placed tools/feet they will pop I meant

[@aulakh29]

Amazing lead, I mean lead ice climbing is always sketchy. I learned so much watching you do that steep section. Especially breathing and pushing through. Season just starting here in Canada and just excited to get out soon more. But gotta say I felt that pump in my arms watching you. Appreciate the post.

[@Gen-Dits]

Great stuff Troy !

[@troytimmons]

Thanks man!

[@stevenc2628]

Nice one, but still waiting for snow fall in Scotland !

[@PujicMafia]

Loving the comment section of people who think they know better! Fucking armchair climbing commentators, every time🙄 What a treat to get on the pillar. Nice work Troy!

[@cainlarkham9036]

The comment section is toxic 🤣🤣 Live fast, die young and party on! Great climb dude, I hope these guys in the comments are climbing ice pillars on the weekend like you, I didn’t see any videos on their channels!

[@MsBleau]

Dumb question. How do you get down. Man you got some stones

[@troytimmons]

not dumb. ideally not by falling, near the end you see the anchor i clip into, there's already a couple quick links and a carabiner up there. I take one rope pull it through and then tie the other rope to it, then rappel on both strands. then just pull one of the strands and get the rope back

[@MsBleau]

@troytimmons Thanks, you guys must have some awesome upper body strength.

[@andrewsheehy2441]

Top marks for toughing it out but that was as super sketchy lead. Quite a few of those placements were, um, marginal at best. Be safe.

[@troytimmons]

well that's the easiest way to get mileage on 6s (climbing a 5 super inefficiently). thanks for the kind words

[@MatthewWright-y9t]

That looked super dangerous. Not an ice climber. Can’t help but wonder what a fall would look like.

[@troytimmons]

a fall would be very not chill. the shot at the very end shows how high the first screw was. i saw conrad climb it and put my first piece at the same height

[@josephreichart7545]

Just Whyyyyyyy

[@sanjuanworm666]

Yeah kid...u not a good enough climber to be waiting that long to put in your first piece of pro.....good luck

[@troytimmons]

you're ... negativity ... is ... kinda ... bumming ... me ... out ...

[@sanjuanworm666]

@troytimmons not as much as that reality check of a ground fall will be for you

[@troytimmons]

the first piece is placed just above the fracture line for the pillar, this thing falls over regularly and it's not smart to place protection low on free standing pillars. read gadds "Ice Climbing" or Banfields "How to Ice Climb". You can learn a lot from those if you're curious how the whole thing works.

[@sanjuanworm666]

@troytimmons ha..not curious.. I know Will...and knew him way before he was good enough to write about it. If you don't know who u are talking to...and they are trying to give u life saving advice...its best for you just to quietly try to learn from the advice than to type any kind of response... And Alex and I were playing on that in like93 or 94 or so....so there's that

[@troytimmons]

@@sanjuanworm666 i get what your saying, if you had started with "i was playing around on that pillar with THE alex before you were born, and based on your shitty climbing technique you should've been on the ground in a pile rather than clipping the chains". I get that and i respect that. I'm currently operating on a string of confirmation biases so thanks for taking the time to instill some doubt in myself.