At 22:50, what is happening with the side cutters? What are you putting in and cutting? At 22:56, what is happening with the small hex key/Allen wrench? Is that an Allen wrench? ... Thanks for taking the time to share this with us!

Well done as usual Michel. Proxxon may have used aluminium bronze which is hard enough for nuts but can still wear out over time.

The grey cells are coming up with some clever ways to get things done, good job!

Ever a pleasure, Michel!

Not saying that your choice of splitting the nut lengthwise won't work, but traditionally to deal with backlash you split the nut so that you can apply forces on opposing shoulders of the screw. Consider this if your solution ends up being unsatisfactory, I suspect you will have trouble keeping it adjusted.

Great video!! You seem to be very intelligent!! Maybe you can help me out. I would like to install the same setup you have on the compound tamper on my lathe. If you could please help me out I would really appreciate you! Thank you.

Bloody nice job on that sir! I like it a lot. I'm going to revisit my X axis nut on my 25 year old Warco WMT300 lathe/mill combination machine. It has a very weird trapezoidal 20 mm X 0.1" ( 10 tpi) thread. I made a new nut in brass (which was my big mistake ) but due to a chipped tooth on a change wheel, I mucked the first one up and left it for a few months to ponder how I could do the job without ruining a second one. I decided to make a tap first and used a piece of steel from a Range Rover anti roll bar as this is good steel, a bit hard to machine but I managed it. The second nut was brass as well, (big mistake) and I managed to make a usable nut with only about ten thou of backlash. I also cut my leadscrew to swap it end for end using the unworn tailstock portion to even out the wear in it I made joining sections at either end to put the leadscew back together in its proper orientation with the machined bearing and driving potions back in their proper places.mi also cut 30 mm off of the very end of the unworn part of the thread as a go gauge and the tailstock joining piece was made 30 mm longer to restore the length of the screw. This has worked ok but after two years of hard work I have a lot of golden sheen glitter on the leadscrew and around 25-30 thou of play again. I'm not sure if I have enough room to do the half nut idea as you have, but I'm going to see what I can do to replicate your idea, this time in bronze if I can find it. We have now no engineering suppliers locally as all the engineering firms seem to have disappeared here on the London/Essex border. We used to have a brilliant engineering supplier about three miles from me but they closed their doors more than ten years ago now. A great pity that as they had been in business since before the Second World War. I'm going to watch this carefully again making notes and screenshots to replicate your half nut idea, if you don't mind. Sorry to be long winded lol

Terrific upgrade Michel, Well done!!

Great workmanship once again.

Very impressive! I have the same machines, but couldn’t do that sort of accurate work on them.

nice cleaning up the leadscrew, thats nice thing for tapered tread. the bronze splitnut should not be cut a whole. better leave a few mm for easy adjust and extra stability, and keep wel oiled. thicker oil ore grease wil give you much longer use of it. it was bone dry.

I do like the idea of simply making things a bit smaller. What was that thread type 60 degree? It seems to me an Acme style tread would be the best option for such a task. This looked much different from my vantage point.

I like how methodical your approach is to every endeavor you take and that you make due with what you have on hand

It is interesting that proxon had not used an adjustable bronze split nut to compensate for backlash as it wears. Nice video as always

Nice video 👍😀 Was that 0,7 mm backlash ?... that will ruin a part if you are not careful 😢. A bronze split nut is a good way to solve a problem like . Offcoarse there are different solutions or materials you can use. But bronze is self lubricating. Specially if you use bearing bronze .

might be an idea to dril in an oilhole from the t nut slot in the tables surface down intoo the capture nut for the leadscrew to be able to drop a little oil in there once in a while using a siringe and a needle

elegant solution to the problem ! Ill keep it in mind when I get around to doing my mill, best regards, Steve

Just discovered your channel, subscribed! thanks for sharing!

What a great build and a great project for me coming winter 😀. What angles did you grind the parting blade ?...

Mr. Uphoff, excellence is always envied, and therefore criticized. Excellent work, excellent videos, the last concern is cost, when excellence is the goal. And congratulations, you have proven that. Thank You for sharing. The others can go to Harbor freight and buy garbage.

Superb little machine, very nicely done. 😊

Can you identify the music for me? It is wonderful. Thanks

very impressed subbed !

I have now received a great offer from a friendly KZbinr. He is willing to make drawings of my Tiny Toolgrinder! So, if all goes well, a video will be released soon with drawings and some detailed information about the construction.

I have now received a great offer from a friendly KZbinr. He is willing to make drawings of my Tiny Toolgrinder! So, if all goes well, a video will be released soon with drawings and some detailed information about the construction.

I have now received a great offer from a friendly KZbinr. He is willing to make drawings of my Tiny Toolgrinder! So, if all goes well, a video will be released soon with drawings and some detailed information about the construction.

I have now received a great offer from a friendly KZbinr. He is willing to make drawings of my Tiny Toolgrinder! So, if all goes well, a video will be released soon with drawings and some detailed information about the construction.

I have now received a great offer from a friendly KZbinr. He is willing to make drawings of my Tiny Toolgrinder! So, if all goes well, a video will be released soon with drawings and some detailed information about the construction.

I have now received a great offer from a friendly KZbinr. He is willing to make drawings of my Tiny Tool Grinder! So, if all goes well, a video will be released soon with drawings and some detailed information about the construction.

I have now received a great offer from a friendly KZbinr. He is willing to make drawings of my Tiny Toolgrinder! So, if all goes well, a video will be released soon with drawings and some detailed information about the construction.

I have now received a great offer from a friendly KZbinr. He is willing to make drawings of my Tiny Toolgrinder! So, if all goes well, a video will be released soon with drawings and some detailed information about the construction.

Does it have ball screws (I believe "FF 500/BL-CNC-ready" does have) or std threaded rod for axis movement?

Hi, machinist here, i´m building my own cnc at the moment and just love to watch every home build i can find... The only thing imho that is a little pitty is that your workspace is very limited due to the arm of the machine itself would crash into the material as it gets long enough. Angle cutting therefore would also get extremely difficult to impossible. Anyway, when i´m watching cnc pro´s and their buildt, sometimes i really don´t know about it... 🙂 You designed a very neat and nice machine that is capable and i´m sure good for your own use. I don´t know about your background man, but you´re doing a really good job! I really enjoyed the process, especially that you didn´t stop at the last 3% like so many do, but you´re also disassembling, painting and assembling again. This is making a huge difference imho, you´re really showing love to detail and a pro like attitude! Have fun with your projects, i´m sure you will always be highlighted when only looking at this build! ♥ KR from Austria sir and thank you for sharing this, Christian

The repeat-o-meter and your indicator stand are not measuring deviation, but only repeatability. Suppose the instrument is zeroed on a flat area and then placed over an area where the profile is 0, +4, 0, such that the intermediate feet are over the 4. The instrument would indicate -8, while the actual deviation is +4. Thus the repeat-o-meter is mostly useful for evaluating local flatness after determining the overall flatness by other means. The measurements taken by the laser don't have a reference thus the measured position of the dot will be a combination of several factors, so it isn't as reliable as the autocollimator. Both are really measuring the angle and any profile needs to derived from those measurements. In this case the feet are shown as 25 mm apart while the mirror is moved in increments of 20 mm. If the increment were 25 mm, then we could multiply the measured angle by 25 mm and determine the vertical change between points. Then a line can be fit to the points and the maximum deviation determined. It would also be good practice to measure along a loop and ensure that the readings all sum to zero ie. closure. It should be possible to construct a suitable autocollimator with a long focal length lens, beam splitter and point source. Focusing the image on a CMOS camera sensor and processing it digitally may be easier than trying to replicate the vibrating slit and optics of a conventional device.

Amai, als hobbyist zal ik hoogstwaarschijnlijk nooit dit doort gereedschappen kunnen maken. Ik ben echt onder de indruk👍👍👍👍👍

Was this tempering necessary, and even benefitiary? This is just 0.5mm of surface, and I doubth this parts will ever have impact stress, so the surface will crack. After all.. those linear guide shafts are at about 62HRc surface hardness if I remember whell. BTW.. great job

There is a lot of demand for working drawings of this mini grinding machine. But I don't like spending many hours behind a CAD program to make decent working drawings. However, if there is anyone who enjoys doing that and would like to volunteer for it, that would be great! I have photos of every part, and almost all the important measurements are included. That could be a sufficient source for a set of useful working drawings. If that works, I will make an extra video with some detailed explanations about the materials and construction and of course you will also get all the credit you deserve in that video.

There is a lot of demand for working drawings of this mini grinding machine. But I don't like spending many hours behind a CAD program to make decent working drawings. However, if there is anyone who enjoys doing that and would like to volunteer for it, that would be great! I have photos of every part, and almost all the important measurements are included. That could be a sufficient source for a set of useful working drawings. If that works, I will make an extra video with some detailed explanations about the materials and construction and of course you will also get all the credit you deserve in that video.

Very impressive series, covering a lot of ground, an inspiration for me - thank you very much !! As with many others, I’d love to see any sort of drawings you could share !

Very impressive!!

As always Michel, top notch craftsmanship. At the risk of repeating myself, there is something to be admired about a machinist or craftsman who builds his own tools. Well done sir

nice instrument!

Wow, what a nice build. Thank you for showing the drawings. I will try to replicate the design. I found this channel last week but I'm watching them all

Very inspiring. I was looking to purchase s new one, but now I just might have to make it instead. Well done.

Great build and an inspiring level of craftmanship. Would have loved to see a little more of the making ans assembly of the ball joints, did not quite understand how they work and are made to work in a precize way. Looking forward to see more of your projets. Will go see the hardness tester video right away! Subscribed

Excellent work. Always enjoy exceptional attention to detail on projects. Is there a chance you plan to release drawings? Thank you! All the best.

I like the flexture fine adjust, great job once again Michel. How did you keep the scaling under control in the heat treating phase? more specifically when you heat the parts up for quenching. how did the heat treat affect the overall dimensions and surface finish?

I love the clockwork precision you achieve and how you make tools even better. I will check out your 'how hard can it be' playlist next. Thank you for bringing us these high quality work to amaze us. 👍💪✌

This was a great video. Only one thing remained unclear to me. How did you register the two perforated disks so the actuating motion was exactly aligned when the lever was at one end of the travel? I was trying to think ahead and the only way I could see was to have very accurate mark when you glued in the bottom plate or you let the bottom plate self align with the magnets but that might have been a 'glue' drying timing issue.

Suggest losing that awful rattling cutting sounds. Wife makes me turn it off if it's too piercing