Thank you so much for such a great explanation , the website you recommended is pretty helpful as well

Thanks for the great information it’s helping me get a new job

Thank you ! Very helpful!

I just got a new job at the shipyard doing sheet metal and the ruler is king!! Im so glad i found this video!

Thank you so much for the lesson

Absolutely no gloves when using those machines

I have gauges. This is a huge help.

OMG!!! Reading ( understanding) a ruler has been a nemesis to me my entire life and has always bothered me that I didn't understand. And from time to time I would google on how to.I am SO glad that you made this video, because I literally feel a great sense of accomplishment today because I now 100% understand! THANK YOU!!

lol 'Pro', tool looks like 1990s freeware

Thanks for a great video. What was the black paint you brushed onto the star for the end of the video? Everything I have used is very difficult to sand off because it is absorbed into the wood.

Do not sticks your hands or arms anywhere near the blade while its plugged in. The number of times he lifted up the blade guard or stuck is hands and arms in the path of the blade while it was plugged in had me cringing. Also, use the clamp the saw came with! I don't make any cuts without the clamp. My hands are never closer than 2 feet to the blade, 4 inches is asking for trouble. Clamp the wood before every cut - don't sacrifice your fingers....

Mine too. Horrible human arithm teacher 5th standd

Very well presented video. I've been watching a lot of videos on the table saw {My son in law gave me his table saw}. Thank You! I just Subscribed to your channel.

Nobody and I mean NOBODY SHOULD EVER CUT ON A PULL STROKE! If you want to prevent tear-out on the finish face side of material, then cut with the back side up on the push stroke with the finish face side down so that the teeth are cutting up into the finish face from the underside. If you want to minimize tear out in the unfinished (face up) back side, then pre-score the unfinished cut line with a straight-edge guide and razor knife first before making your cut. Cutting on the pull stroke is inviting disaster. It is similar to inserting a saw blade backwards (i.e., opposite to correct rotation). I have a post-accident photo of an industrial woodworking accident where the saw blade was installed backwards in a miter saw set at 90 degrees. When the cut was attempted, the saw man running the miter saw apparently held on tight to the stock such that when the saw blade contacted the top back edge of the material, it then “threw” the stock piece out towards the saw man and he allowed his left arm to travel with the stock piece such that his arm got pulled across the edge of the saw blade and his entire wrist and hand were cut clean off. The post-accident photo shows the wrist and hand lying iron the saw bench with the bone sticking out. You should also always use eye protection and avoid wearing long sleeves with unbuttoned cuffs even while keeping your hands a minimum of 4” away from the blade at all times. If you are cutting a compound miter then you have to use extra care to keep well clear of the blade which sometimes requires using a mechanical clamp to hold the stock in place and keep your “free hand” well clear. Work safe!!!

Thank you

Thank you for the great video. Very thorough!

Very nice video, great pedagogy and professionalism 👍🏻👍🏿

Thank you so much for this video and the safety practices. I have a healthy fear of power tools, especially table saws. After over 20 years of making do without, I finally odered one and now doing my homework ahead of time. I really like your push tools and will make them for myself. Thank you!

Thank you.

In my 47 years on this planet nobody’s ever explained this to me!! I’m taking a new job at work where I’ll be selling and stocking welding rod so this is very helpful!!

Well thanks for making me feel like a fool all these years

It's great

I had a kickback on my Mitre saw I think what caused it was sawdust jammed in the sliding bars which stopped the saw reaching its full stop position !

just switch to metric dude, or use decimals so is easy for us to convert to mm

Thank U

I come back to this about once a year because I don't do this very often and need the refresher (about once a year) Thank you! There are other tutorials on the same thing that make it far more complicated than your lesson!

You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice kzbin.infoUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.

I’ve just watched this brilliant video, and it’s just reminded me of all of the Safety things you’ve gone through. Thanks for the memories, we all to be reminded of the Saw Table dangers from time to time. Thanks

Very good descriptions of accident c as uses on the saw. Thank you.

Thanks for the Refresher course. My first time learning this was in 8th Grade Shop Class in 1968. Remember when schools had Shop Classes. Lol.

So many yearas since last video! Thanks a lot for this lecture. I really hope you doing great!

Wow You are a REALLY BAD TEACHER . You are speeding up and you sped up so fast that students just got left behind . You are a stupid teacher Stupid man

5:10 what type of lubricant do you recommend to use on colllet threads to lubricate it? Thanks

The big problems is when adding or retracting inch and feet with each other, just use metric and all is crystal clear.

Time for a metric system of measurement since many folks aren’t familiar with this awkward system

I laugh me sorry because I work for a french company in US and beleive me all technicians like use metric mesure why that is easy we don't need to calculate ........

Thank you for this.

Thank you so much for the video 5:51

Love the technique. This man ends his cuts like he just landed a triple axle

great video,nice shop too....new scriber in NC...take care,be safe

"Let me show you a space-saving layout" - stands in front of largest set of tables I've ever seen. Excellent video, but was tickled by the different scale of organizing a shop compared to my garage.

Outstandingly simple. Good job.

this was great, what is that cnc machine you are using?

I learned so much ... thank you ...

You demonstrate by putting your hand above the blade whilst leaning over the table into it and making cuts without a push stick. Not good...

Riving Knife should not be in line with saw blade though +- 0.3 mm to the right slightly outside the saw blade. PS it is best to make a Riving Knife from spring material BV. aluminium. And the wood remains pressed against the guide and the rest of the wood remains clamped in place against the guide and cannot shoot away, no kickback saw wood (I've had it like this for years) win win situation !

Will you be doing a video on Jointer safety ? Excellent safety video !!!!

REALLY PATHETIC AUDIO

Simple rules…never have your hand/fingers above the blade when feeding timber through unless using something like a gripper. Never cross cut from the fence side. Always cross cut from the other side. That way you can stand to one side and feed timber through with your body and hands to one side. Never use force to push timber through. Always have a writhing knife in place. Never use a high tooth count blade to cut thick sections at an angle. It wont clear the dust, will burn and create friction that could cause grab and will harm your blade and motor. Always check fence is parallel to saw blade when you start a new job. I check mine regularly. That cooler box was a very sobering reminder of the dangers. When covering safety, we must include health in that too so always wear hearing protection and have both dust collection and absolutely use air filtration in a compact shop. Depending on timber type I may or may not wear a mask too but keep eye glasses on or wear a shield, I shun push stick designs which place hand on front of the part that contacts the timber and it helps prevent kickback if the left mitre slot has a adjustable feather board or similar device for keeping pressure of the workpiece against the fence from in front of the blade, never alongside or behind it. You only have to concentrate on vertical and feed pressure then. Good video but I had to chuckle as your idea of what a compact set up was and what most of us in the UK consider as compact. Your saw and outfeed table are literally as large as the average hone workshop here😂😂😂. I have a professional home workshop for my business and it is just 12ft by 11 ft so you have to be tidy and creative! Still have a cabinet saw and outfeed and side tables taking up much of the room and can just get around it to storage shelving. My work benches are along side walls on both sides as you come in.

Butting the edge against the fence won't necessarily give you a square edge, it will give you an edge parallel to your blade. Squaring your piece needs to be relative to the adjoining edge. Use a sled or a miter gauge to give you 90 degrees. Also, for peyote who aren't familiar with using a table saw, butting the short edge against the fence that way is pretty dangerous. Again, a miter or a speed to support the piece through the cut and let the offcut fall away is your safest bet.