Glad it worked well for you.

No I do not. I did use a second hand Mercury vintage tilt and trim pump. I purchased a 3" hydraulic ram (power up and power down). The entire dump unit sets on top of the mower deck frame and mounts over the 4 vertical up right posts that the deck heights adjusts on. Most of what I welded up is 2" square tubing. Not a real hard thing to do but you do have to figure out where to mount the ram to get the proper throw to get it to set all the way down and go up to where you want it. If you are truly interested in building one let me know and I will try to get some measurements for you

I would think it should be fine, it is still a blunt instrument. I am figuring on hitting a pair up on a belt sander to try out. Main thing is to get the pinching surface as close to the shaft as you can.

Thanks for the positive comment

I have had NO trouble with the inserts chipping. I also use the same insert in my lathe tool holder. Even it you hit a very hard spot and do chip the insert you simply rotate the rotate the round insert a few degrees and you are off and running again.

@@Histandard2011 Awesome !!!

​@Histandard2011 Hi Adam, I'm about to venture into fly cutting. I just got a 6pc Indian fly cutter set, 3 - ½" & 3 - ¾", dia ranges from ¾ to 2¼. They take tooling from 3/16 - 5/16". It was the cheapest set I could find w/ the most variety. My wife works for MSC, so I get stuff dirt cheap. I wanted to get some experience before I started looking for or making bigger, better. I have a lathe & 2 LH indexed tool holders to experiment with; 1 is a round insert like this vid & the other is a triangular insert, so I don't have to go buy any tooling. You 2 fly cutting vids caught my attention because you seem to go against 'conventional thinking' & for what works. I'm like that, as well. I've been working on care since age 12 & built my 1st race car at 16, (drag racing). Been fixing, building & fabricating every since. Owned a biz w/ an old friend for a time building street rods, race car chassis & restoring antique cars. Had lots of room & equipment for the only time in my life. Most of my 70 yrs I havn't had the money for fancy ideal tools so I made stuff work. Along w/ my mostly side fun of building/racing cars & such, I clothed & fed my kids as a contractor; spent 30+ yrs doing remodels, lots of custom work. Even built a recording studio as my last big project. He was hoping for a demo studio when a mutual friend asked if I could 'save' him from an unscrupulous contractor. I did, & last count he's recorded 15+ albums for him & others. Did it on the same budget. He's happy, as you can imagine. Anyway, my experience brought me into maching 7-8 yrs ago when I got a lathe. I've been wanting to learn to use & have a lathe & mill since the '60's, but either didn't have the room or the $$ until my 60's. I studied books & YT vids, learning all kinds of theory & such while I was laid up for 6 months, then jumped in. Seemed like DoC & Speeds & Feeds tables weren't made for my lathe. I couldn't get anything good from them; did better doing the opposite, sometimes. So, I started experimenting, using my 'Get it done w/ the wrong/improvised tools' experience & started having reproducable success. I bought an old Jet 16 round column mill this summer, my 1st foray into milling, except what sorta milling I've done on my lathe using a milling attachment I made. It was flaky, but better than the router table I've been using for years, er decades... since carbide came into the construction world, I've pushed the envelope, a bit.. lol. What I wanted to ask, (& share w/ you), is if fly cutting depends on a very sharp cutting tool? May seem like a dumb question, but I have found situations where tooking can be too sharp; gets too aggressive & even shallow cuts in material is impossible. Best broad scale is a too sharp drill bit in a hand drill. What a nightmare that can be. Learned how to put an edhmge on steel long ago; when I started in carpentry, carbide saw blades didn't exist. Everybody had a rack of blades in their truck, destined for the sharpener's place. One nail or two rocks & a blade was done. A dozen rips of oak on a table saw & the burrs start. After I got the 1st carbide lathe tooling I picked up some diamond abrasive tools, (www.mscdirect.com/product/details/38611158), a set of these. At 1st, I was just working on brazed carbide. I'd bought a big azz box of lathe cutters from a retiring machinist & got all he had. He'd never used indexed tooling. One day, I was struggling w/ the lathe & mistakenly thought it was the insert, (later found out it was a broken cross slide lead screw nut). The funny thing is, I learned a bunch filing on inserts. Enough that when I'm working on sticky aluminum, mystery steel or something hard, I get after a brand new insert before I use it. I've found sacrificing a coating or radius is a fair trade when a razor sharp edge works better than anything else. That brings me to my question about fly cutting; if sharp's better, then giving one of those carbide cheerios an edge just might be the ticket. I've been thinking about my scrap pile & what I can try out a fly cutting on since 3:00 am! Wanted to connect w/ you & share one of my out of convention discoveries w/ you, thought you'd relate. The other thing is I see your earlier vids were RCBS related. I haven't reloaded in years, don't shoot much, any more. But I did find a great use for the RCBS brass tumbler I had; thought it might help you as much as me. It makes a great, minimal mess parts cleaner. Got some plastic gutter screen from Home Depot & covered the inside brass basket using the screen & zip ties, to keep small screws/washers in tumbler basket. Then I put some scraps of tile in the bottom of the tumbler, so the level of fluid would be high, but a lower volume. Figured I'd be changing the fluid a lot, so saving $. My neighbor told me about a Dollar Tree cleaner almost 20 yrs ago, Awesome Orange; I've been buying 10-15 half gallon refill jugs @ 1.00 ea, every since. Probably cancerous as all get it, don't drink or bathe in it, but it is a degreasing mi fo. I use it in the shower tub, just spray it, no scrub. Brass clean, chrome sparkles, soap scum gone. Like I said, likely give our dead uncles cancer... Put enough in the tumbler that stuff in the basket can soak & give it 7-8 spins per hour & in 2-3 hrs, stuff looks like it was hot tanked. It takes every paint but lacquer off, if soaked. Here's the kicker, though. After a year or so, I was cleaning some stuff, most of it rusty, so it was heading to a derust bath. I needed to change the cleaning fluid, & looked at the jug of derusto solution I use & thought.. Wonder if I can make this a 1 step process. Damned if it didn't work. What I'll caution is the last gallon of de rust, I tried, Evapo Rust. Thought I try it, & it doesn't work as good, by itself or w/ Awesome Orange as well as my 1st love, Metal Rescue. It's slightly more per gallon, but it's well worth it. So, if you have a brass tumbler you're not using, or if you need a great parta cleaner enough to buy one, go for it. You win't he disappointed. It is so low mess, I had it in a spare, light colored carpet, bedroom, on a small backseat floor car mat for a winter & didn't get a drop in the tan carpet. Was careful, but not overly so. As long as you don't aggressively tumble the parts, it doesn't even leak more than a drop or two. Hope that helps, as well as the insert sharpening suggestion. I'll let you know how my fly cutting goes if you're interested. I'll be putting an edge on the Cheerios, fior certain. GeoD

Thanks, Have a great day!

EDIT - just saw a response you made... $1,100. That's a good deal for today's market.

It has been some time back but think I got $900. It was in pristine shape though. I have a nice Clausing vertical 8520 and did not use the vertical unit at all. Have a great day.

Sorry to be so long getting back with you, however at 80 I am slow at everything. I did this conversion on 2 units and did NOT change the flywheel. I am sure you have the new coils installed the right side up (Ground terminal up and plug wire facing down). I believe they will mount either way. Second I strongly suggest that you use Briggs and Stratton (I think they are platinum). Now I know Briggs has never manufactured a spark plug but they are branded Briggs and Stratton. Now the product number. The package part # is 696202 and the # on the plug is 694385. The outside package # may be different due to it having 2 plugs per package. These plugs replace RC12YC,RC14YC and Bosch FR8DC. I swear by these plugs and found them to do away with hard starting, misses and etc. Downside is the cost. Sorry to be so long winded.

Thanks

Yes, sold all 9 of them I had.

@@Histandard2011 - @ 5 of them so far, I'm catching up to you ;-)

If you are going to use the bit in a fly cutter on a mill then go to the very last minute of the grinding of the wooden mock up and you will see me put a down arrow on the wooden mock up. This is downward most part of the cutter lip, so up is just the upper part.

If you really want an easy fly cutter bit to grind look at this video of mine and you will see it requires NO grinding at all. The tool holder and button carbide inserts are cheap from Bangood are cheap. I find they do a great job and if the edge gets dull you simply rotate the circular carbide insert a few degrees and you are back in business. kzbin.infoh5lbFXsQHJI/edit

Hope it helps you remove a stuck key some day.

Dru, well good luck with your proposed build. Getting close to 80 I don't have enough time left in my life to explain all the shortfalls of the 9 Green machines I owned. One of the biggest problems was the machine was designed for .38 special and the vertical support pillars were placed as to provide support for this case. Meaning to keep the "rocking motion" out of the movable upper head. If the upper head rocks then bullet seat and crimp does NOT remain constant. So if you figure out how to solve the support issue for the .38 the you switch to the very short and ridged 9mm case. Then there are totally different pressures put on the movable head at different places in the strokes of the press head. So good luck in your design (you notice I did not say redesign) . Don't get me wrong I did load thousands of rounds of ammo on my 9 Green Machine presses.

@@Histandard2011 Right on... As per the misalignment or canting issue induced from the pressure, yes, I have put thought into that, Something tells me though, by the time I get done, it will no longer be a cost effective press..LOL.. linear roller bearings, 4 corner post structure, cast iron base and upper anvil, LOL.... oh well, I will enjoy the building process, as that is the mission. Thank you

Yes, that MUST be connected and have power on it in the run position and it provided to power to open the 12V solenoid to allow fuel into the carburetor. If you watch the video closely you should see where I point that out. However, I made the video a few years back and my memory is fading being very close to 80 now. Good luck

I have to make a few assumptions. First by the specs of your motor I would guess it is a permanent magnet motor and in Australia you are running 220/240 volts ac. Also are you trying to run a DC motor that came out of a tread mill or a real, heavy duty motor with a regular mounting base? Is your speed controller a $15-$20 type off of ebay or an expensive type with lots of internal adjustments?

Yes, this is due to the .45acp using a large primer and the 9x19 taking a small primer. Also the small primer punch assembly that pushes the primmer up into the cartridge would need to be changed and last but not least the primer transfer bar would need to be changed. This is a tough conversion to do.

@@Histandard2011 First of all, thanks for the reply. you are very kind. I understand, but if you don't have to change the trigger from small to large, the case transfer bar is still the same? Thanks Alberto.

@@Alberto-vy6mk What are you calling the trigger? I am quite sure you are trying to go from a 9mm which uses a small primer to a .45acp which uses a large primer. If so, the hole in the case transfer bar is to small to accept the larger primer that a standard .45 uses. Now if you decide to go to the large primer you must also change the primer transfer bar (the part that goes in and out and picks up the primer and transfers it up under the case transfer bar). Next you must change out the entire primer rod assembly. This is the part that pushes the new primer up through the case transfer bar and into the bottom of the empty case. I hope I diid not misunderstand your original question. Adam

@@Histandard2011 OK I understand perfectly, I was wrong to formulate the question. My question is: are there only two case transfer bars? One for primers small and one for primers large? Thanks Alberto.

@@Alberto-vy6mk According to RCBS there were 3 or 4 different bars sold for different cartridges. They were stamped on the right end with markings like .38/.357, 9mm and .45. However in my experience I found that if you were trying to load a small type primer cartridge you could load any small primer cartridge using a standard small primer bar. I saw NO difference it the pawl spacing on the original bars RCBS sold. I took a standard .38/357 original bar and assembled green machines to load .380. 9mm, .357, .38, .40 and even .30 M1 carbine. It stepped the cartridge to the right and the alignment of each caliber cartridge with the head and dies was perfect. The same thing applied for the large cartridges. If you are lucky enough to find a case transfer bar that was built for a large primer they it would do .45,, .44 and 10mm.

Michael, the only reason I could think of for replacing the flywheel would be for very MINOR timing issues. I have had no issues with anything in the 3 years I have been running mine without the timing module and the new coils. The timing module retarded the spark slightly for starting and then advanced it slightly for running. I am not an expert, just an old retired small engine mechanic.

The white wire is the grounding wire from the ignition switch. If you do the coil modification you will have to "Y" off of the one existing wite wire and run the white wire to both new coils. There are NO diodes in the harness.

@@Histandard2011 I had a total of 3 dieods in the wiring going to the coils coming from the chassis, I figured it out this morning my I had used the wrong red wire. Thanks for the replying. It's going to be 111 degrees here today. I don't think I'll be mowing today.lol

The transfer bar is I think the hardest part of the press to get aligned and tensioned properly. You must start with getting the primer hole in the transfer bar and the primer push rod coming up from the machine base lined up. You would need to down load a users guide PDF file off the net and then follow the directions to a "T". There is no secret, just a long process.

@@Histandard2011 Thank you very much for the answer. Congratulations on all your videos, I respect you very much. Thanks Alberto

Not all engines depending on year built and etc. are wired exactly the same but i would bet it goes down to the electric fuel shut off solenoid on the float bowl of the carburetor which should have nothing to do with your ignition.

Larry the one I had here on you tube is long been gone, however the parts are all available on ebay.

You are more than welcome. Hope it works out as well for you as it did me.

@@Histandard2011 Please, can you tell me what length magnets you used? I understand they are going into 1/2" holes so I imagine you used 12 or 13 mm diameter magnets. Thank you.

@@pyromedichd1 The diameter is .490" and the length is .380"

@@Histandard2011 Thank you very much. About the closest I can come to those dimensions is 12 mm (.472") x 10 mm (.393"). Since either Loctite or some other adhesive will be used to hold them I guess those sizes should work. Any thoughts?