Glad you liked it!

lovely! do you run AC at night?

wow, really good for 5.6 kw system!

holy f c k

ouch :(

12000 btu is around 1000-1500 watts, probably? depends on how you use it but three-four 400W panels should do it, i think.

was it an off-grid system? did you have to get permits to install it? to claim ITC, you generally only need IRS Form 5695 and Schedule 3 (Form 1040) if it's a home system. but keep the receipts for all of your equipment as a support if the IRS decides to check.

@@a1solarstore not off-grid. i read that the system needs to be operational to claim the credit, what documents is required that is operational? thanks for your comment!

It's an interesting idea, yeah

@@a1solarstore I have another great idea that I really do not want to post here. What should I do or who should I call?

@@ArtOfHealth let our editor know [email protected]

@@a1solarstore I wrote Andrei. No response. Please have him check his email. Thanks

Sure, fair point

My point of order is this is a mini-class with Tanya. So take some notes. Look at the graphs. Start thinking of your own systems. Science and physics always beats opinions. Thank you Tanya. My wife understood this Too!

No, not necessarily. they become better with every iteration. but they need to be able to last for at least 10 years to be competitive.

@@a1solarstore I've been hearing that for 10 years yet here we are no viable product

Could you specify what you mean by 'cracking underneath'? like, when a backsheet break first? it could be strong wind getting under panels and in this case it can be installer's fault (ideally, you want to prevent the wind from getting under array), a weak panel or just a very strong wind. hard to tell just like this

@@a1solarstore Yes, the white back sheet. From the video I saw it was shown that Canadian solar, had issues after a few years of use. The back sheet was cracking and the panels became a hazard.

Interesting observations. Where do you live? we usually deal with monocrystalline panels and a 400-watt mono panel is generally a 60-cell or a 66-cell panel.

@@a1solarstore I live in Northern Utah, where we get 100°F summer days, and get sub-freezing winters, with a lot of snow. Hail storms happen, but they're rare. (though, it only takes one). Also rare, but it happens, are wind storms with gusts approaching 100 MPH. The biggest threats are thermal cyclic stress, and snow load. You're right, your 66 cell, 400 watt monocrystalline panels are not quite as big as my 72 cell Poly's, but slightly larger than our 60 cell Polys. They would work well for us. I picked up my 72 cell Poly's for $135.00 each, which at 300 watts each works out to $0.45 per watt! They're bulky, but, these are the heavy duty solar farm grade panels, weighting 58 Lb each. I have just enough room on my roof, to install all 54 of these old school industrial giants. (each frame 39" wide, 77" tall, 2" thick frames) I will be stringing them 9 panels each, 6 drops, each string on the same plane, each string connected to its own maximum power point tracker.

@@vincentrobinette1507 i see. sounds like a solid plan. best of luck!

12 years! congrats! great decision indeed

You mean hybrid PV thermal panels? As far as i know, they haven't really taken off. people say they are hard to install and do average job at both heating water and generating electricity.

Yeah, afaik manufacturers try to make glass thinner than 3 mm

Technically, you can charge a car battery with solar if you add a charge controller in between - the way i see at least. But the thing is, a car battery is not the same as a deep-cycle battery. deep-cycle battery is meant to be charged and discharged. Car battery provides a quick burst of energy. If you charge and discharge it, it will quickly die out.

@@a1solarstore thanks. Just need to get car battery charged.

Lovely, thanks!

100%

thanks! what do you mean exactly? a multimeter measures voltage and current so you can check the output of your panels with it

You mean take the heat that panels get under the sun and use it for water heating? It is a thing. There are so-called PVT (photovoltaic thermal) panels. They haven't quite taken off, as far as i know: a bit too complex to set up, a bit too expensive and do an average job both ways: the water is not as hot, and electric production is not as good.

​@@a1solarstore can you contact with me. I need guideline

​@@a1solarstore My three years electrical diploma is complete but I don't know

exactly

yeah this is done by ppl that understand solar

that's...an interesting prediction. thanks for kind words!

Good day, Please send us an email at [email protected]

A single PW2 battery cost about $11,500 (plus installation costs). They are rated at 13.5KW. However, if you get them, they are warrantied for 10 years and who knows what a battery will cost then? Already, manufacturers are coming up with batteries to replace Lithium batteries with Sodium, so they could be dirt cheap then!

Well, even if you have claimed Solar Tax Credit for panels already installed, it shouldn't get in the way of getting itc for new ones. "Earlier installations of qualifying property do not affect the availability of the credit for qualifying property in later years. - www.irs.gov/pub/irs-wd/201809003.pdf#page=4 So i'd say, treat these added panels and the labor to install them as a cost of a new system. It would be reasonable to subtract the parts that you have claimed itc for - like an inverter, if you're keeping the old one. oh, and ask your new contractor about it as well.

Generally, roofing materials do not qualify for tax credit - unless you have installed solar shingles, tesla roof or something like that. Read more here: www.irs.gov/newsroom/energy-incentives-for-individuals-residential-property-updated-questions-and-answers

Well, this is a whole another can of silk worms to unpack...

Q CELLS are top notch, that's true.