Yeah, the Odie's Oil was super easy to work with and I think it came out great. And this little box only used a tiny fraction of the jar, so I'll absolutely be using it again.

Thanks for the comment. Kind and thoughtful words.

I used the crosscut sled for every crosscut. If you know a trick to safely fixture a block this size to the sled for rip cuts, I'd love to hear it.

@@UncleMikesCustomThings maybe make a box jig that rides your fence and has toggle clamps on the tail and side applying downward pressure. Personally, I try to avoid the table saw for any small cuts because it scares the crap out of me. I made a flattening table jig for my router recently. You can make one that clamps to the top of your table saw to save space. My router was $20, the wood was scrap from work, and the bit was maybe $30-40.

Good tips, and props to you for actually engaging in a constructive discourse about woodworking safety. The vast majority of such comments on KZbin are people who seem far more invested in complaining and high-roading than actually sharing knowledge, which is frankly tiresome. You're one of the good ones.

Wow, thanks! That's always nice to hear.

This music all came from the KZbin audio library. It's a surprisingly deep selection and all free to use, which is pretty cool.

Nope, the switch was set to run the whole time. I'm pretty sure I was just being way too timid with the choke. I'd heard these saws were really easy to flood. Now that I've had the saw for a while I've got a good feel for how it behaves and when it wants choke and when not, but of course I had none of that experience when I started it for the very first time.

Glad you liked it. It's really a shame I made this before I started KZbin so all I have are stills of the build, because it was a really fun and unique project. Great to hear you're tackling something similar.

Thanks! Yeah, a few extra drive wheels sure would be nice, but for the price I'm not complaining. The only time I ever get it stuck is around my own property, and I've got an excavator to pull it out.

Not so secret when I publish the video on KZbin.

Wow, you've got me beat.

I'll take that as a compliment. Thanks!

I bought a spark plug boot puller and it works great. A little silly to buy a specialty tool to work around this design, though, especially since it's the only thing you can't do with a scrench.

It's the same with some stihl air filters.

This was a deck for a friend's house. I used 2x6s because I wanted them to be able to buy replacement boards at a lumber yard if they ever needed to.

Thanks for sharing your experience! I've heard from several people that a genuine Stihl MS361 is an absolute rock-solid workhorse. Unfortunately for these Farmertec knock-offs, sometimes you really do get what you pay for.

Glad to hear from another happy Timberwolf operator. Maybe it's just the big steel-tips I wear, but I've never operated a chainsaw that could fit my foot in the handle. That's part of why I usually drop-start (which, to be clear, is not recommended, but it works for me).

Well that isn’t a foot loop…

To be clear: operating a drill press with gloves on is a bad idea. Don't do it.

Those were the instructions I remember reading in the tag that was on the saw

Now that mine's broken in, my experience is similar. Thanks for posting your experience; it's good to have confirmation that this is what it's supposed to be like.

Never heard of that one! Why do you suppose that is?

Just some generic stands I got at an auto parts store a couple decades ago. The sticker says Duralast. They've served me well.

I've seen people having good success with ratchet adapters. I figured the starter drive would be a little more stout, though, and I was getting pretty tired of breaking stuff.

Thanks! Let me know when you post your review; I'd like to check it out.

@@UncleMikesCustomThings Sure thing.

Yeah, other than that first start, mine's been great. And even that was user-error. Knowing what I know now I'm sure I wouldn't have had that much trouble.

Cool deal, a 590 made me a lot of money starting a side firewood business.

I have a Stihl291 and a cs590 The 590 is a better preformer

That's a great price; good get. I paid $600 for mine.

What?? $600?? That’s crazy. I found a brand new one on FB market place and stole it for $280. Took a gamble considering it was on a return pallet but it was indeed brand new in box, and runs like a scalded dog!

That's a great deal! Nothing like that available around here, at least not when I was looking. Given that both my other chainsaws were bargains that were currently giving me fits, though, I was willing to take the plunge on a brand-new, fully warrantied saw for once, and I'm still glad I did.

Haha! If I wanted to cast shade on Echo, I did a pretty lousy job of it.

Just under the hinges. I didn't want to do any structural welding between the axles, and didn't really see the need because the load path is pretty favorable.

Mine's 16k and I top out around 3 yards of stone. Dirt is a fair bit lighter though, as long as it isn't too wet. Go for it!

Wow! Two pulls from dead cold is amazing. I'm pretty darn happy with mine at six.

Mmmm Hmmm 😂

Haha, yeah, this probably isn't the best upgrade if you're not up for a big project. But it sure is nice now that it's done. Yeah, that's my trusty Hobart 140. Great welder. Almost 20 years old and still kicking. This project pushed it pretty far, but I've found if you're good about bevels and pre-heat, you can get good strong welds even on pretty thick steel.

Wow! You really know your Echos. Great tips. For my own edification: what symptoms are you looking for to tell it's too lean? I know that if the high screw is too lean it'll over-rev but I've never really gotten my head around how to tell if a high idle is from a lean low screw or the idle adjustment screw.

I turned it up a little from where it was out-of-the-box, but not full open. I've got my Poulan and knockoff Stihl both turned up as high as they go, and this Echo puts out more oil than either of them at about 3/4, so I left it there.

That's good to know; about the same as mine, forgiving that first-start-ever that gave me so much trouble.

It never again gave me that much trouble, so I don't think there's anything wrong with the actual saw. I'm pretty sure it was entirely my fault. I'd read in others' reviews of this saw that it was super easy to flood, so I was being really timid with the choke. After owning it for a while I've now got a good feel for when to choke and when not to, but of course on that first start I didn't have that experience yet.

Agree with you easy to flood assessment. I have that saw. Flooded it a lot at first. Now I have it figured out.

How hard should it be? I'm seriously asking. It's far-and-away the easiest to start chainsaw I've ever owned, but that's not saying much.

​@UncleMikesCustomThings First of all let me tell you I am a woman. I had a Husqvarna that would cold start with just 5 to 10 pulls.. It finally broke and I purchased this piece of 💩Just like you I have to pull and pull and pull to get it to start...I hate it and it's a waste of money... Glad you like it but I don't.

@@caz4523 Aside from my first start (which I'm happy enough to attribute to dry lines and me being far too careful with the choke), my Echo has been reliably starting in six pulls from cold, which I've been pretty happy with. I don't have a ton of experience so I'm not sure if that's good or not, but compared to my Poulan and Farmertec saws it's a big upgrade. I'd say if yours is significantly harder to start than mine, it might be worth taking it to a dealer to see if they can explain why. Might be a simple tuning issue they can help you sort out.

@@UncleMikesCustomThings Just watched Chickanic on YT... this timberwolf is know to be hard to start and you can flood it fast...she said a lot of people want to return it just for that reason. She posted a tip to start it easier...I have an echo polecsaw that is wonderful...but not this chainsaw...Never had a problem starting any chainsaw or polesaw until this... Glad you like it..Wish I could return mine...

@@caz4523 I think I watched that same video. That's the reason I was so timid with the choke when trying to start it for the first time; I'd heard it was easy to flood. One big factor that influenced my decision to buy Echo was their warranty. Five years is a long time. How long have you had yours? You might be able to return it still.

You mean the inner tapered roller bearing inner race to main spindle interface? Oh man, if only it had just dropped in. It was indeed a press fit and there was very little room to work with. You can see around 7:50 I'm tapping it in but I can only fit a tiny little quarter-inch punch, so it's really slow going. Even if I had a press I don't think I could have used it here because the access was so bad. Luckily my trusty hammer got the job done.

@@UncleMikesCustomThings you didnt you the heat and freeze method?

Nope, everything was room-temperature. If you do the math you'll find that the actual size change with household methods is pretty marginal. You can get into liquid nitrogen or flame-heating, but I'm always worried I'll damage the seals or grease with those more extreme temperatures. Heat is great for getting old, rusty, stuck things apart. But for assembly I don't mess with it.

I'd say it depends. How bad is the damage? And how important are the result? Makes a big difference if that pole barn is for goats and firewood or if it's got insulation and electrical that'll be a problem if they get wet. Even if the seams won't lock, you could just screw them down with roofing screws (the kind with the rubber gasket). As long as the seams still at least lap it ought to be as good as barn tin.