Damaged Standing Seam Steel Roof Replacement

[@paulsyeager]

Just yesterday I was customizing some standard footplates (european style roof edging) for my new greenhouse with C-clamps and some lumber as my straight edge. If I had only waited a day I could have seen how I should have done it. Cool trick with flipping the old blade backwards to rip metal. I will need that soon, too.

[@UncleMikesCustomThings]

Hey, nothing wrong with lumber and C-clamps. The right tool for the job is the tool that gets the job done.

[@greggb1416]

Very nice sheet metal work sir. It would appear that you have done this before. I have that same snap lock panel on my shop. It will be around long after you and I are gone, barring another tree. I have snow load to be concerned with, and the most accumulation that I have had, was about 6inches before it all sheds off. Regarding your backwards blade trick, that does work in a pinch, but “Diablo” brand blades has a specific ferrous blade in many sizes. You can get a 5 or 6 inch one, for pretty cheap, and still use it in that 7 1/2 circular saw. I know you are being cost conscious, and probably won’t need a specific blade like that again, just throwing the info., out there. Great video, Thank you sir.

[@UncleMikesCustomThings]

Thanks for the tip! I've been wondering about those metal cutting circular saw blades, but was worried that they would only work well in a metal cutting saw (Evolution or similar). Have you tried one in a standard circular saw on steel and gotten good results? I would love to hear about it as I'm sure I have more metal roofing in my future.

[@greggb1416]

@@UncleMikesCustomThings yes, a “Skill” brand with 3600 RPM, (of course you don’t have the benefit of a metal shavings/filings catcher), anything with higher RPM’s causes lots of heat (thus shortening the life of the blade). Although maybe not on sheet metal, but the metals you are dealing with on your truck bed. Those Evolution, Milwaukee, M.K., Morse etc., brands, dedicated metal cutting circular saws, are running 2800-3200 RPM, longer life out of the blade, and the shavings/filings get directed into a “catcher” (you know, a catcher, it’s a technical term, hahaha).

[@UncleMikesCustomThings]

@@greggb1416 Awesome, thanks for the information! My weapon of choice (Ryobi brushless) is 4300 RPM, so a little higher, but not crazy. Next time I've got some panels to cut I'll have to give one of those blades a try (unless of course by that time I've caved and bought a dedicated metal-cutting saw, they are tempting!). By the way, I think the technical term you're looking for is do-whacky.

[@greggb1416]

@@UncleMikesCustomThings hahaha.., yep. I did some research, I think they call them a “chip” collector.

[@UncleMikesCustomThings]

So you were right!

[@thomasschafer7268]

Your Transport tells everything!!😅😅😅

[@UncleMikesCustomThings]

For everything except gravel, the best pick-up truck is always a minivan.

[@supermo26]

Love the hammer music

[@UncleMikesCustomThings]

Thanks!

[@supermo26]

Diablo has a metal blade for a skill saw.

[@UncleMikesCustomThings]

Gregg said the same thing! I always thought those were for special saws, and thicker steel. Have you used one on a regular circular saw? Did it get good results? I'm sure I've got more steel roofing in my future, and if they actually work I'd love to add such a blade to my toolkit.

[@Randallgarrett-w6l]

I can get Salvage standing seam with bad seams so you thing I can just screw the seams and make it work? For a pole barn roof and sides?

[@UncleMikesCustomThings]

I'd say it depends. How bad is the damage? And how important are the result? Makes a big difference if that pole barn is for goats and firewood or if it's got insulation and electrical that'll be a problem if they get wet. Even if the seams won't lock, you could just screw them down with roofing screws (the kind with the rubber gasket). As long as the seams still at least lap it ought to be as good as barn tin.