Yes, it seem like as time goes on... many manufacturers are making things more complicated/difficult. Planned obsolescence in some cases, and/or difficulty to prevent people from easily servicing things themselves. As an example, just look at the complexity of new cars. Life does not have to be this way. I try to surround myself with simplicity.

Yes, the fans are still working fine. No noise and no issues.

Glad the info helped.

You are welcome!

Just curious, how did you find that the coil?

@@robertb.6526 Initially, I spent hours trying to figure out how the timer kept getting voltage. The dryer still worked so it was no big deal, we just pulled the breakers after every use. Then last week it started giving poor heat so i pulled the back off the dryer and found the thermal cutout (the one at the top of the heater box) was open. So i replaced it and when I flipped the breakers back on I noticed the heater was on! So I took the heater off and that's when I discovered one of the coils shorting to the case.

Rick, thank you for your reply and congratulations on finding the issue with your dryer. I’m personally going give up on mine. It’s almost 44 years old 😁. I think that’s a good lifespan for a close dryer. Thanks again. I will be shopping for a new one,it’s time.

@@robertb.6526 44 years old. Wow! Parts can be tricky to find for an oldie like that. What's the problem with it anyways?

The knob On the timer where I turn it to the time for the clothes to dry it just gets stuck whatever time I set it for and it does not rotate. I tried Put in a screw to tighten the plates, but it didn’t help. It’s probably the It’s just worn out, the gears maybe, I don’t hear them clicking when I turn the knob like I did when it was working. They don’t make that part anymore, Sometimes I see some that are selling at eBay. They probably rebuilt, and this is 50-50 chance it won’t work. I’m just done with it.

Yes, sorry about the shakiness. My 10 y/o little boy was excited and wanted to assist. It was his first time helping. When kids want to get outside and help, we need to promote their interests and motivation.

I can hear the ting sound when raising volume or opening and closing of it

This Murray has been a great mower. I never would have thought it would cut so much grass in its lifetime, and last most of mine. I have replaced the spindle bearings on this mower, in the past. You are correct, the factory Murray spindle housings do not have grease fittings. Please note that even spindle housings with grease fittings are almost useless with some sealed bearings. This is because grease will not easily get past the bearing side seals, when you pump the housing full of grease. I would recommend modifying/removing the bearing seals that face towards the grease fittings. The next time I replace those bearings, I am going to attempt to do that and 1) drill & tap the housings for grease fittings, or 2) will purchase housings with grease fittings (about $30-$50 per set). I believe if you search "Murray Spindle 24384", those may be what you need. Please double check the parts/part number before ordering though. Overall, my main focus is serviceability and keeping things simple in life.

@@bobbilly351 Could you do a Tutorial video on how to take the spindle apart to get to the bearings I just would really really hate to ruin it.

Hello @davidruiz5383, Glad to hear that you are interested in learning. I think that is great... especially repairing things. This keeps items from going into landfills, saves you money, and makes you less dependent on others. To answer your question: No, I left the solenoid to starter cable connected when trying to start the mower. The solenoid is simply a relay switch that allows the starter to receive full current from the battery, when the key switch is turned. If the solenoid didn't exist, the key switch would have to carry the full current, which it cannot do (it would melt/burn up). The power therefore, goes from the battery, though the solenoid, to the starter. Note: On some automotive starters, the solenoid (which is mounted on the starter) also make the bendix gear engage. That is not the case on this starter/solenoid setup, however. Hope this info helps.

Awesome! Glad it worked for you. You are welcome.

The bug zapper was brand new (only a bit over a month old), when the bulb quit working. It is used as an indoor unit only, to kill any mosquitos or moths that happen to get inside the building at night. I have bright lights inside the building. When working in there at night, a few get in when I go in/out through the walk-in door. I have a smart switch to turn on the zapper late at night when the lights are off, to kill those bugs. I do keep the bottom cover/catch tray clean/dumped. If the zapper was outside, it would be covered with bug debris. I have two other outside bug zappers that I constantly have to keep clean with a leaf blower.

You are welcome. Awesome! Happy to hear that!

You are welcome.

You are welcome

You are welcome

Yes, I chose the power steering pump for the video because you can easily watch the fluid level going down. When evacuating a transmission or oil pan, it the same exact process, except there is a lot more fluid and you cannot watch it's level going down (because you cannot see down the dipstick tube). Just wait for the air bubbles to know when it is done. Also, I usually mark the small hose with piece of tape (using the dipstick to compare), to know how far to push the hose down into the dipstick tube. If you look carefully in the video, you will see a piece of masking tape on the hose, from a few weeks ago, when I pumped out a transmission.

It is available on amazon, ebay, and other online stores such as zoro. Just google "topsider oil extractor". I purchased mine from ebay, many years ago.

You are welcome.

Yes, I really believe they are made to fail, which is sad (waste of resources). This current set that I am using, I wrapped the hinges tightly/nicely with electrical tape (I have no need to fold them up). Anyway, it has been about 4-5 months now, with no failure. Thanks, it is a 66 Ford Fairlane GT w/390 big block engine. I have owned it for many, many years.

Glad that worked for you!

You are welcome. I hope so too. No need to buy the newest/latest expensive appliances with a bunch of fancy electronics. Save/invest that money for better future.

I did some research on the 2005 model explorer. They say to check the passenger side vanity mirror light. It can cause your issue, along with blown fuses.

@@bobbilly351 #18 fuse (15 amp) driver side fuse panel near steering wheel. Windows, radio, and fuel Guage, works great 👍. As for vanity lightbulb, not sure if that does anything.

You are welcome and thank you for the kind words. Fellow engineer here; not retired yet, but one day...

Sounds that might be a bad ignition switch (the electrical component which the wiring harness plugs into; not the key lock cylinder; as long as the key fit and rotation feels normal). Most older vehicles have a mechanical key lock cylinder that rotates the electrical component switch in the steering column. If the electrical portion (the ignition switch) goes bad, it might stay on causing your issue. I usually have had them go bad, where the car stalls (ignition turns off while in the run position) or simply won't start.

That's the correct function of the Delayed Acc Relay. Separate from the Battery Saver Relay. Supplies power to certain accessories Key OFF for several minutes or until Dr door is opened. If not turning off with door opened then likely a broken wire in the door harness. Very common problem.

@@bobbilly351 Ign switches are common failure on Chrysler, and once in a while on GM. Ford's design is much more robust. I've had them apart and failure from normal use is near impossible. At least for the mid-2000's generation.

You are welcome and thank you for the encouragement! Unfortunately, my wife kids and I have only used Android phones. I know I did have some trouble getting our latest phones setup with the "Device folder". It was because Android did not want to let SyncMe to access our SD cards in our phones. I think I had to find the path to the local folder by clicking the three dot menu at the very upper right corner in the app (after clicking "Device folder"), then choosing "Go to". That let me manually type in the path to the SD card. So: Add sync folder --> Device folder --> click the three dot menu in upper right corner --> Go to --> then manually type in the full path

You are welcome. Glad it helped.

You are welcome

The main bathroom toilet is directly behind the brick wall.

You are welcome. Glad it helped.

Glad the info was helpful. We have quite a few of these around the house now. I only charge my phone by usb port now, when I cannot use wireless charging (like when traveling in the car). Good luck on the repair of your phone; hope everything works out. Happy Holidays to you too!

Haha, yes, sorry about that... it was my young helper's first time videoing. He is learning and doing much better now.