Hmm since they're not working properly in either X-plane or MSFS, have you looked in the windows controller configuration? I also have some Virpil gear, and the way some of the devices axes work can be different. What it sounds like is the pedal axis is a single axis (not to axes for left and right; e.g. throttle slider vs joystick) so see if you can find a way to recalibrate the axis centerpoint to the "netural" position? I've had to do ths in some games, but you might be able to do it in the windows controller configuration too. I'd try that before returning them, just to make sure. Also, MFG has a driver package on their website, have you downloaded it?

@@tenminutetech Driver package? I didn't know about that. I'll try it. Thanks for replying.

You know, that's totally fair. I opted to keep the video ~10 minutes but can certainly go over some of the software side in a future video. Are there any specific games you're thinking about (MSFS, X-Plane, Star Citizen, etc)? I definitely have some things to say about deflection curves, sensitivity, dead zones, and the like... Let me know!

@@tenminutetech Yes, please. I bought the MFG pedals exclusively for the MSFS2024.

Hi there, good question, sorry I missed that in the original video. I have exchanged both the R6 and R7 for the R6mk2, which has a much faster shutter, about double the speed, so it's a little more difficult to tell. Based on the direction that I rotated the camera, the images generated appear to be drawn from the top to bottom. That said, I'm pretty sure the the sensor is actually upside down in the camera relative to the image that we see on the screen (because it needs to immitate the mirror system of older DLSRs to make the lenses interchangable), so while the bottom of the image is drawn first it's the top of the physical sensor. 99% sure Here's a correction. I was not fully correct in the original comment. I tested this directly with the R6mk2. Rotating CCW matches the slope that I got in this video. If you rotate in that direction, you should expect to see more of the 'stuff' on the left hand side of the image to be visible later in the image capture. This appears to correlate to the bottom of the image. It's a little bit counter-intuitive if you just think of the direction of the slope. I confirmed that the image is indeed flipped in the lens (get a big aperture lens and look through it yourself) so the bottom of the image corresponds to the top of the sensor, which is read last. If everything is oriented like I described, the bottom of the physical sensor starts first (top of the image) and rolls to the top of the sensor (bottom of the image) last. Hope this helps!

@@tenminutetech Apparently, the readout goes in one direction for mechanical shutter and in the opposite direction for electronic shutter for Canon cameras, according to a discussion on dpreview.

@@Brillig2 Oh yeah, using the shutter actually does change things. Electronic 1st curtain (which is the mode I use most) would start from the bottom like electronic shutter, but the full mechanical shutter would be top down (the slit moving down) since it doesn't make sense to drop the 1st curtain back down first, since it's already up. For what it's worth the full mechanical shutter isn't great in the R7 and induced too much shutter shock for my taste, so never really used it.

Thanks! I wanted to find a way to quantify the rolling shutter since I don't have access to the actual hardware to know how fast the sensor read-out is, or what that number would even mean. Hopefully this made sense, and if you had any other ideas for better ways to test this let me know! I agree on the R7, I've pretty much only have been using my R6ii because of this, the slow buffer, and the weirdly random out of focus shots (has to to with poor compute power, cant keep up with tracking requirements in burst)

Yes definitely! You can clean it off after.

Hi there. I have sold a couple on request and could ship one out to you. I don't have a formal store (those cost money!), but we can arrange something if you'd like. Shoot me an email, and you can find my email address in my bio. It's more secure for you to 'reveal' it there than to post it here in the comments. I'd be happy to make and ship one to you if you tell me what what size and color, and verify the gimbal head size you're using (most are 3/8"-16 but check to make sure)

I don't have a set of the WinWings to test myself but I find the Crosswind V3 to be 'fine' and the WinWing's appear to be very similar. At the same price I'd probably buy the WinWing's today, because of the look and quality appears *visually* better. But again, I don't have any to test or to compare so YMMV.

I was able to turn the phone on for long enough to get data off of it. After 2 days it didn't work again. I believe the solder is really low quality and as soon as it thermally cycles, it "cracks" again unfortunately.

Hi, This one is from Ali and is the brand Yihua. It's okay, but do note that the temperature readings are all nonsense. I don't think the hotplate or soldering iron get as hot as they say.

Use a desholdering re work

You're totally right. The temperature reading is complete nonsense! I didn't realize this at first and that made it really difficult and was the cause for my failure.

Agreed. They're made to fail.

I thought so too. Some folks have also used an old frying pan with a hole drilled in it for the bolt, as another inexpensive option. But I agree, it's a weirdly overpriced item for what it is.

Thanks for the comment! I am a fan of the bambu printers and have an X1C and P1P myself! This shouldn't have any issues printing with the default ASA profile that you would normally use. The STL is just a geometry, so you can adjust number of walls and infill to your preference. I like 50% infill but you can probably get away with a little less with ASA, gyroid seems to work well in most cases. My only suggestion is maybe print a few layers first and pause it to check that your bolt will fit in the hole. Sometimes printer dimensional accuracy can be slightly off, because different materials (even different brands) expand slightly differently. If it doesn't fit scale the whole thing by a small amount so the bolt fits. The head of the bolt should be tight so it doesn't fall out without the gimbal head installed.

Hey thanks for the comment!

Hi thanks for the comment on the video. It's possible that you may get some performance increase doing a shunt mod, but honestly with the 20 series I found that they're running them pretty close to the edge already. I was able to get more power, but the card couldn't take any more voltage. That said, I think this mod would work better in situations where you can use more power, but get away with lower voltages.. so if you have a really good cooling setup, or plan on doing LN2 overclocking it's a definite way to get a boost. Hope this helps!

In my opinion it all depends on how you use your PC, you know? If you're the kind of user that keeps 20 tabs open at all times in chrome, you might start running out of RAM with only 8GB, especially if you're doing other tasks simultaneously. However, if you're more of a 1-tab/task at a time I think 8GB is okay. That said, generally for a desktop PC in 2024 I would recommend 16GB at minimum, preferably 32GB for a multi-tasker/gaming PC because DDR4 is relatively cheap these days.

@@tenminutetech Thanks for answering my question! 👍

It's all about the chainsaw! Very strong in PVE if you can catch them in stagger.

I haven't had any issues one printed out of PLA, although I think it might get a little soft if you're in direct sunlight in a desert. I've also been using this mostly with my RF100-500 which is a bit lighter than your 600/f4. I would definitely consider using the larger skimmer if you can, with weight in mind, but outside of that I'd wager on PLA, ABS, PETG, all working equally well. Hope this answers your question!

@@tenminutetech Perfect, i much appreciate the reply.....i'm new to 3D printing...expecting it to be delivered any day now. :)

@@plinkyplanky9651 Great! Enjoy the printing and feel free to comment with any suggestions you might have for other 3d printed photography gear

Hey thanks for the comment! It works about as well as the original one that can be found online for about $100. So I'll take it. I had some thoughts of modifying it to float so you could wade into the water but haven't worked on that yet... let me know if that's something that's of interest!

Hey thanks for the comment. I haven't really put much SC content up, it didn't seem to get much attention but I'm happy you enjoyed it!

Hi, and thanks for the comment! This one I got from aliexpress and the brand is "yihua", they make soldering irons that are pretty decent and I found it by searing "yihua rework station". It is quite handy, but a little small for motherboards as you can see in the video. ITX maybe mATX might fit though. I would also recommend getting a set of tips for the soldering iron, I prefer a nice big chisel tip and mine didn't come with one. Hope this helps!

@@tenminutetech thank you

Thank you for the comment! Same, I think they were about $100usd, which seemed a bit steep for what it is. I know other photographers who have used an old frying pan and drilled a hole for a bolt, so that's an option if you don't have a printer yet. I've also made them for a couple friends and the parts list is on thingiverse/makerworld if you want to have it made locally!

That makes sense. It's definitely a high risk repair, even if it's successful if there was any other damage not immediately affecting the end result I can also see that it's possible for micro-cracks to develop either in the solder or traces and cause issues under load. Like you said, if you have the right tools, the ability, and care to take those risks then it may be worth it on an expensive for irreplaceable motherboard. Thanks for the comment! This video is a couple years old so I haven't gone back to this idea, but maybe something in the future.

Thanks for the comment. I'm surprised this old video still attracts interest! Replacing damaged pins is certainly something I never thought of. From this I learned that you really just need the right tools to get things done properly. You need a large heated bed for a full motherboard for sure. And patience. I lack patience. Thanks for the comment and have a good day !

Thanks for the comment. Framework said the hinge is "working as intended" and did not offer any support.

Thank you for watching!

Definite maybe. I like the angle of the right to repair and keep the equipment going but they way they're going about things will never hit the main market. It's a cool device but a bit pricey. Agree that the main thing should be battery and ssd, those can keep a laptop going for 10 years.

Not a silly question at all! The intel LGA 1155 socket is the same in every board, that's correct (btw 1155 represents the number of pins). The issue is that you need to solder the new socket to the board, and for that to happen you need to have solder pre-applied to the bottom of the new socket because you can't access it by hand for obvious reasons. If: (1) you have the tools (heated plate and reball mesh specific for 1151 socket) and (2) are super skilled and able to reball it properly, checking the connections, then in theory you could salvage a socket and put it on a new board. Typically it's more work than it's worth though. The alternative for us mere mortals is to just buy a new prepared socket from ali for $3.

Hey thanks for the comment. It's actually just 2 small screws to remove the back cover, then you can feed the cable through and screw it back on. Sorry I didn't think to make a clip of that shot, but I can make a quick YT short or something to cover that better. Thoughts?

It's called "Bambu Handy", by Bambu themselves. It lets you monitor prints and cancel them if there's an issue over the mobile app. Hope this answers your question!

@@tenminutetech thank you

I'd it an app. To download?

@@stevefritter7283 yeah you gotta download it.

@@stevefritter7283 No problem! I'm pretty sure it only works with bambu printers, but it is pretty cool that you can remotely manage some of the basics. They just recently added an option to skip failed items from a multi-item print, and I'm putting together a video on those features soon, so keep an eye out for it!

Hey thanks a lot! I really appreciate it. Please feel free to leave any advice or recommendations of things you'd like to see in other videos.

Hey thanks for the comment. Let me know if there's anything that you would like to see more of or improvement on.

That's an interesting thought. Perhaps that would work as long as you were very careful not to deform the pins in any way! Thanks for the idea!

Haha, it does appear I was incorrect about the side panels. It must be dirt cheap to spin up a whole new plastic process, and cost less than just aluminum material to make this change... Actually maybe they also needed to leave something "premium" for the x1... Because I think for 99% of people they should just get this and not the x1 now!

Because we didn't know at the time how the enclosure would be handled. The P1P chassis is slightly different. In the end they opted for completely new manufacturer of new side panels out of plastic, which has an unknown affect to price, but it was closer to the P1P