I bought it off Amazon. Hitachi HPP0010. It was around $225 at the time.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/j568pa2ZrLd4g9U I don't recall the part number. If you review the end of the attached video you can look them up by name.

Good advice for the group, thanks for the tip!

You can disconnect the turbo from the head. There are a couple nuts that are a pain to get to on the exh manifold. There is also a couple of coolant lines you have to disconnect.

It also helps if you remove all of the plastics and metal by the windshield. You get plenty of room to work at it from the top. I have a video on removing the engine from the top that shows it. You can leave the turbo connected to the cat and slide the head out.

Awesome bro this is such a sigh of relief man I have a head gasket I need to do and identifix says I need to remove the whole turbo charger. FUCK THAT! 😂 I’m glad I can just unbolt it from the head man. If I’m not mistaken is this year excluded from the lower block coolant slits. Or is this year affected as well? Thanks for the reply man it truly helps

​@@RainsMobileMechanic you may find it easier to take the turbo out anyway, just depends how much room you want to work with. Im not sure about the coolant issue. You will need new crush washers if you remove the oil feed line.

@@elvrolet sweet man thanks! Just as long as I can get away with only disconnecting the turbo from the head to remove the cylinder head I’m fine! What I’m not looking forward to is using the timing tool for this engine it’s a silly design imo

What are your fuel trims reading? 2197 is Lean, which means there is more oxygen than fuel to obtain the 14.7:1 it desires. Do you have a smoke machine? That is really the best way to detect an air leak.

@@elvrolet Not familiar with this Data, hard start, after warm it can cause a vacuum hose, pvc tube, to blow off. LONG FT1= 0 graphic % 14-24 LONG FT2 = 0 graphic % 700 -800 while driving always 2x #1 I sprayed lot of carb cleaner and soap water, no change or detection.

The keyless crank in my opinion is a bad design. They do this because they are using other items to time the engine, then freely spin the crank into position to line up with the crank sensor. The Dorman crank pulley is just not the right fit. I don't know how they get away with saying it fits these cars. Once you press the pulley on, you can't adjust it, so if it is misaligned in any way you are screwed.

@@elvrolet why does the valve cover have to come off to put a new Harmonic balancer on it? The guys that repaired my engine said they put a short block in it. It took the. 6 months to do it. Now the balancer failed and the serpentine belt won't turn all the things it drives because the crank is turn but the pulley is not. $8700 I spent for the replacement but now it's dead on the side of the road and they are telling me that if I put a new Harmonic balancer on it with removing the valve cover it will bend valves. Basically everything I know about engines and I know a lot about them they're telling me does not is not in effect on this particular car which is blowing my mind and they want $1,200 to put a new balancer on there because they have to pull the valve cover and reset the timing. Why is pulling them balancer off going to mess with the timing if the timing chain and gears have not been touched or moved? Sorry I'm trying to get them to repair it but I don't even think that they put a block in it It doesn't look like they did and I'm being screwed with right now and I'm not happy I just need any type of answer because I everything I know about engines they're telling me it does not it's not the same on this particular car.

@@DGiese-sv4by These Ford engines (Range Rover, Mazda, others) are timed in several ways. They are not traditionally timed as most engines had been in the past. The valve cover comes off because there is a tool that aligns the intake and exhaust camshafts at TDC. There is another tool that locks the Crankshaft in place (looks like a bolt). There is another tool that aligns the Harmonic Balancer (crank pulley) with the Crankshaft Position sensor (CKP). All of these things have to be aligned at the same time before locking everything down and putting into service. As far as your mechanic doing all of this work previously and all of the sudden the crank pulley separated and is just spinning, that is curious. Did they use the old pulley, did they use a Dorman? Your sales receipt may show what they charged you for. I have a video showing the differences. kzbin.info/www/bejne/q6aQcqiHeNxjrdE Did they use a new bolt or the original and didn't torque it correctly? All of this is suspect. There are several youtube videos you can reference about timing the Ford 2.0 turbo. They are basically the same as Mazda speed 3/ speed 6 as well with slight variations.

@@elvrolet it was the harmonic balancer/dampener/rubber part that failed. So it would not turn the serpentine belt causing nothing to work that the belt drives. I thought that the AC compressor locked up so when I took the belt off and spun all the pulleys by hand is when I realized that the crank was spinning but the pulley was not. So the timing chain should still be in the correct spot to time the crank and the cams. But what position should the pulley be in so that the crank sensor is reading the cranks position and that it is in the correct place.

@@DGiese-sv4by You would need to do the entire timing process to ensure the crank is aligned with the crank sensor. Be sure to buy a Ford pulley.

If you have different findings please let us know on here. I'm just assuming they are all the same. Good luck.

Hope it works for your issue. Let us know so we can spread the word! Thanks.

There is a mysterious misfiring. All the usual suspects were ruled out.

I’m thinking of going into my 2013 terrain and changing them soon

Sealed Power from Rock Auto. Standard size. I like OEM stuff typically but I didn't have quick access to them.

Thanks for the inquiry. 1:15 mark - Ford part # BL3Z-9K378-A is for the "Solenoid assembly- Turbo Control" according to Ford Parts Giant. It is called Turbocharger Boost Pressure Sensor" according to Haynes manual. 1:40 mark - Ford part # CB5Z-9E882-A is for the "Control Assembly - EGR Solenoid Valve" according to Ford Parts Giant. Both of these items on this vehicle are the Ford OEM genuine parts. Hope this helps.

@@elvrolet Subscribed to your channel. Look forward to your final build and the steps along the way.

With the high pressure fuel pump it takes a few times of cranking the car before it builds up enough pressure to allow it to start. This car had the longest cranking of any that I've worked on and it made me think something was wrong at first. But it just needed longer cranking to build pressure. I ended up watching with a scan tool to verify it was building pressure.

​@elvrolet Can you maybe give me light on my A4. Car cranks no start. RPM doesn't move. Had the codes P0016 Camshaft/Crankshaft Correlation. P0146 Lost Communication Gateway A. U0115 Lost communication with Instrument Panel. This is right after my battery died and Installed a new one. Right side windows doesn't work as well. 2011 Audi A4. Thanks in advance

@@mattdebeer5289 Are you saying that the car had no codes prior to the battery swap, and the car was driving fine? The Cam/Crank correlation is a big deal if it is true; meaning the timing is not in sync.

​@elvrolet No codes at all. Was driving fine. Later the night when I wanted to move my car battery was dead. Cluster lights dimmed and my car cranks slow as if his dying. Tried to jump start it still nothing. Got a new battery the next day installed it. Everything thing turns on. It cranks but wont start. Search codes and it gave me Lost communication Gateway A- Lost communication with cluster and the Cam Crank Correlation. Cleared the codes didn't come back. But still no start. Right side windows also don't want to work. My RPM needle is stuck at 0 it doesn't move a bit. I don't know its wierd. How do you drive something without any faults or systems and then boom!

No u shouldnt

It is a very small space to fit a wrench. It's been a while since I did this so I don't have a memory of if a full size wrench will give you access. The oxygen sensor socket is just a better tool for the job to be sure it doesn't round out the edges. You could potentially cut the wires at the base of the sensor amd use a deep well socket to remove it (maybe).

@@elvrolet just ordered the socket thanks

Update replaced vvt selenoid appears to run better no more shaking for now no more code for pressure to high at sensor 1 for now

That's good news. Did you also change the oil and filter when you changed the vvt solenoid? Those little metal particles cause so many issues.

Glad it will help, that was the idea foe this video, just help someone else along the way.

I would be interested in learning more. Thanks.

@@elvrolet Hi~Where can I message you to send you more details?

@@elvrolet Hi~Where can I send you more details?

@@elvrolet Hi. May I have your em/ail add/ress?

@@elvrolet Hi. Is there another way that I can contact you?

Yes, the coolant bottle has to come out to have enough room. I would recommend just removing the water pump assembly instead of messing with it this way. Be sure to order the new gaskets. Check out my other video on the thermostat details. Good luck.

No codes or anything pointing to any problem. I think if the control valve would have had an electrical error it would have thrown a code, but since it was still "functional" the computer didn't have anything to report.

It certainly has fixed it. No.problems since the repair and I drive this car daily.