It ends up at the bus bar in the breaker box.

Yeah, thinking about too many things and used the wrong term.

You can separate the line into different circuits. Decide which outlets you want on each circuit and install the proper breaker and wire for broken up circuits.

It is there as a safety to take any power that makes it outside the circuit to the ground.

That definitely makes it more difficult.

That's interesting. That's also a good reason to get a pigtail cable that plugs into a wall socket and has a couple banana clips that you can stick multi-meter probes into.

⁠What connector is that?

I used the 2.5 cfm.

No, The gfci has a line and a load marked on it. Only an the gfci outlet and those downstream/load will be protected.

No, only downstream outlets.

Thank you

@@agustinherrera5600 It's because it's just tracking the current in and out. You can also get GFCI breakers, but TBH, I don't really get them as you'd typically just install a GFCI outlet at the first place you need to protect and potentially more if you don't like the idea of trying to guess which one is the one that's resulted in losing power to whatever you're using.

Good information as a starter, but after 40+ years doing electrical work a lot of this is assuming that the house is wired in a conventional method, the work was performed up to code standards and must take into account any work performed after the initial rough wiring of the house when it was built. Outlets or lighting that was added or circuits tapped into can give false readings, making it even more confusing. I’ve seen some pretty horrible work out there that would make your head spin.

Depending on where you live, you might always have to pull a permit. Part of the permit cost goes toward the inspection to make sure everything was done correctly. Depends on how confident you are. If you need someone to check your work, pull a permit.

Unfortunately, they seem to be discontinued. I bought it at Lowe's. I went to buy another on about 6 months ago for my small garage and they didn't have it. Also couldn't find it anywhere online.

That's true. I just think it's unsightly. I should have mentioned that in the video.

@@brettleybuilt TBH, it seems awfully unnecessary. I can see it being something that inspectors look at, but the moment the inspectors are gone, there's not much point to it other than knowing that if it's not powering things, then you might want to check the GFCI outlets. In my house, most of the GFCI outlets are on a 20amp circuit, so it makes it really obvious that it's also GFCI as the first outlet in that circuit is in the kitchen where GFCI is required. So, I have one unlabeled GFCI outlet in the dining room that's only GFCI because it's further down the circuit from the kitchen.

I will have to try this. Thanks for the tip.

@ Let me know if it doesn’t make sense or if it worked for you.

​What kind of ohm range of values need to be able to measure for this method?

Can this be 100% accurate? What about split circuits like he showed- one receptacle feeds to two receptacles going different ways- whereas there would be a couple end devices. I wonder, too , could the receptacle be run up to and ending in the switches and/or ceiling fixture?

What if the wiring is so old there is no ground?