How to Identify the Order of Outlets on an Electrical Circuit | Determine Outlets Wired to a Breaker

[@KevinCoop1]

There is an easier way to tell the order. Once you have the receptacle outlets identified as on a circuit, turn off the breaker, verify no voltage, and then take a multi-meter and measure and record the resistance at each receptacle between the neutral and ground. Highest resistance is the last one, lowest is first, and the values in order will be the sequence.

[@brettleybuilt]

I will have to try this. Thanks for the tip.

[@KevinCoop1]

@ Let me know if it doesn’t make sense or if it worked for you.

[@markjackson7567]

​What kind of ohm range of values need to be able to measure for this method?

[@NewTruths]

Can this be 100% accurate? What about split circuits like he showed- one receptacle feeds to two receptacles going different ways- whereas there would be a couple end devices. I wonder, too , could the receptacle be run up to and ending in the switches and/or ceiling fixture?

[@user-ez4zf1tf1g]

Rich with information and put forth so plainly that I can understand despite having no experience. Thank you! I feel a bit more confident now enrolling in the home rewiring class at my community college. A big full house of rewiring awaits me!

[@arthurwilliams1922]

Very good video. Thank you!

[@vince6829]

Nice explanation. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@jimr2053]

There is a much easier way, plug in a heavy resistive load such as a heater. Measure the voltage at each outlet. Outlets beyond the load will all have the same voltage. Outlets between the loaded outlet and the breaker will have progressively higher voltages. All due to voltage "dropped" from the resistance of the wiring and connections. This can also show bad connections when the voltage drop is excessive. The voltage drop due to a 1000W heater is very measurable over just a foot of wire or so.

[@SmallSpoonBrigade]

That's interesting. That's also a good reason to get a pigtail cable that plugs into a wall socket and has a couple banana clips that you can stick multi-meter probes into.

[@NewTruths]

⁠What connector is that?

[@garypoplin4599]

1:38 - Code requires two circuits in the kitchen not counting the fridge or dishwasher, right?

[@johnmckee7937]

If you don't have a helper to flip breakers, they make a transmitter and reciever that real cheap. Under 30 dollars, just plug the transmitter into outlet and use the receiver on the breaker box.

[@Evil_Twin]

Thanks, I'm hoping this will help me figure out my mom's house. Whoever wired it has most of the house on a single 20A breaker. Kitchen, living room, 2 bedrooms, bathroom, and front porch light, including all of the lights (with pull chains), share the single breaker.

[@JohnDeir]

Very informative but I'd like to add that ceiling lights can be the home run point of a curcuit as it can be much easier to pull power cord overhead (less drilling) to create the first terminal. Also it is a point to split out a full curcuit run thus less drilling and wire use. If a curcuit for rooms start with a 20amp breaker, 12/2 wire can be used at the start of a run, then towards the end of a curcuit 14/2 is used as the amount of amps will not exceed (by code) a 15 amp draw untill further down the run. As a retired builder/remodeler I've had my fun chasing down curcuits especially on older previously remodeled homes.

[@Calico5string1962]

What? A 20-amp circuit with #12 wire, can use #14 wire further down the circuit? NO, NO, NO... NEVER! 🤣🤣 That has never been legal nor recommended. A 20A circuit requires #12 conductors - THROUGHOUT the entire circuit - from start to finish. It is a Code violation to use ANY #14 conductors - ANYWHERE - on a 20-amp circuit, regardless of what it's connected to. It would theoretically be okay to utilize #12 on a 15-amp circuit (kind of a waste of wire... but it would be permitted), and then perhaps transition to #14, downstream somewhere. BUT: even then, an unsuspecting/unknowing homeowner or electrician might see that #12 (in a panel) and see it is supplied with a 15-amp breaker, and the assumption would be that, it would be safe to up-size the breaker to 20A... but it would not be, if there was a mix of #12 and #14 wires in the circuit! (And no way to determine that). ALWAYS use only: #14 for 15A circuits, and #12 for 20A (and #10 for 30A). Today's modern NM cable ("Romex") even has color-coded outer-jackets now, so it's easier to identify: 14-2 is white; 14-3 is blue; 12-2 is yellow; 12-3 is purple; 10-2 & 10-3 is orange. #8 and larger are all still black.

[@SmallSpoonBrigade]

@@Calico5string1962 I think the confusion there is that you can go down to #14 at the end of a 15amp circuit for lights. Where there isn't anything beyond the light. But, the 20amp stuff that's typically in either the kitchen or a work shop shouldn't be in the same circuit as the lights because you don't want to lose lights just because you accidentally plugged too much stuff into the outlets in an area that has a bunch of hazards.

[@nerytorres]

Thank you 🙏

[@laluzdebaldemar-y-raul5179]

Very good video❤

[@mikejustice1196]

I remembered my instructor using a pointer stick.

[@Odeezzy]

hey boss man do you have any tips on how to get a job in the electrical industry, i just graduated from a pre apprenticeship program but don't have a way to get in touch with anyone hiring any tips would help (im from Canada, Ontario)

[@brettleybuilt]

Not sure how Canada works. Here you get in touch with the Union and they can get you started.

[@boomergames8094]

That program should be able to connect you with apprenticeship and/or jobs.

[@NewTruths]

Well, it was a bit different on my circuits because they are pigtailed and 3 wires coming into a couple tiny boxes

[@brettleybuilt]

That definitely makes it more difficult.

[@agustinherrera5600]

Hey can a gfci protect outlets both upstream and downstream?

[@AmericanOne9621]

No, The gfci has a line and a load marked on it. Only an the gfci outlet and those downstream/load will be protected.

[@brettleybuilt]

No, only downstream outlets.

[@agustinherrera5600]

Thank you

[@SmallSpoonBrigade]

@@agustinherrera5600 It's because it's just tracking the current in and out. You can also get GFCI breakers, but TBH, I don't really get them as you'd typically just install a GFCI outlet at the first place you need to protect and potentially more if you don't like the idea of trying to guess which one is the one that's resulted in losing power to whatever you're using.

[@deadmanswife3625]

Thank you and merry Christmas 🎄🎁🎄

[@KevinCoop1]

Any receptacle fed by a GFCI protective device should have a GFCI label.

[@brettleybuilt]

That's true. I just think it's unsightly. I should have mentioned that in the video.

[@SmallSpoonBrigade]

@@brettleybuilt TBH, it seems awfully unnecessary. I can see it being something that inspectors look at, but the moment the inspectors are gone, there's not much point to it other than knowing that if it's not powering things, then you might want to check the GFCI outlets. In my house, most of the GFCI outlets are on a 20amp circuit, so it makes it really obvious that it's also GFCI as the first outlet in that circuit is in the kitchen where GFCI is required. So, I have one unlabeled GFCI outlet in the dining room that's only GFCI because it's further down the circuit from the kitchen.

[@anru2774]

So if the gfci outlet goes bad all the rest wont work besides the fact that all the amp draw of the regular outlets will go thru gfci outlet so your usage is limited.

[@Calico5string1962]

YES: if the GFCI fails and trips (and won't reset), then all other outlets down-stream will not work. However, there is no limitation on the power-draw through a GFCI... they are rated to pass a full 20-amps, even if it is only a 15-amp rated GFCI device. There is no need to think you have to "limit" your usage, any more so than with a regular receptacle.

[@SmallSpoonBrigade]

Sort of, if you wire those outlets through the load terminals on the GFCI outlet that is the case. If you pigtail the GFCI outlets and don't pass the current through it to get to the other outlets, those won't be protected by the GFCI protection and will work just fine. But, in that case, you have to install more GFCI outlets if those outlets are in a place where code or common sense dictates that you need GFCI protection. Probably the only reason to do it that way, is if you don't want to go on a hunt to figure out which receptacle tripped and you can't/don't want to get a GFCI breaker.

[@SmallSpoonBrigade]

@@Calico5string1962 I think the reason for that is probably how many are installed in kitchens and garages where things with more current are typically used, as well as the fact that you typically wire them in series, unlike most other outlets that may or may not be wired in series depending upon preference and what is going on in the install.

[@markjackson7567]

If you have the top power using devices on their own breaker it greatly reduces the gfi outlet capacity issues. Like separate for both refrigerator and microwave. Dishwasher and garbage disposal units. Unlikely to exceed capacity with what left in a residential kitchen.

[@tomknack]

Why is it a bad idea to trip GFCIs and flip breakers unnecessarily? Is it due to causing them to wear out faster? Say hi to Roscoe.😀

[@tallhair]

Yes why is it?

[@mckenziesmall6275]

Come on man, let us know why you don’t want to be tripping and resetting GFCI outlets

[@ST-0311]

Yes. Excessive testing can potentially damage a GFIC outlet. Springs and plastic parts are not overly robust. Pop it enough times the reset button may stop working.