Hmmm since I haven’t tried it I can’t guarantee anything… I’d think it should be similarly close though.

Sometimes Verstappen sometimes Samir

Awesome! And hmmm nothing that I can really remember at the moment. It’s been quite a while since I did this!

@@edathi was able to get it on, but your fitment is way tighter haha, gonna have to redo somehow

Ahh crap :/ did you try adjusting fenders a bit? And I'm guessing you got the brackets all adjusted as much as you can...

It's manual

Yeah it was fun! I was trying my butt off to keep up with you (I think) and that orange supra one session haha

That's what I cover in the video 😅. But if you would like a written description the basic concept is to trim down the bumper shock and use washers (or whatever you have) as spacers to get rid of any gap.

@@edathi yeh that makes sense thank you mate

I believe so! There's some other people online whove said that they've done that

Unfortunately Patryk doesn't have a channel of his own. Ahmad, who regularly races with Patryk in ST5 has a channel at: kzbin.info And Edgar who also races a BRZ in ST5 (More with NASA NE than MA now it seems...) has a channel at: kzbin.info

Ciao! Grazie per aver provato la mia app. Sto usando Google Translate, quindi spero che non ci siano malintesi. Hai detto di aver provato la modalità finestra? Questa è una guida su come farlo e mantenere l'aspetto a schermo intero (scusate è anche in inglese): github.com/SIMRacingApps/SIMRacingApps/wiki/How-to-setup-iRacing-in-Windowed-Mode si spera che abbia senso. Questa sarebbe la mia prima ipotesi sul motivo per cui non funziona.

@@edathi ok ora provo grazie

@@edathi quindi funziona solo in modalità finestra giusto?

@@Maurizio.Pernazza sì

@@edathi purtroppo non funziona neanche in modalità finestra, peccato la tua app era favolosa e utilissima per me

Hmmm I've never fitted a lip to any of the bumpers or have particularly paid attention to that area... I think it would at least be close as long as the lip isn't for an mtech 2 or m3 rep bumper. They all have a pretty similar shape on the bottom apart from those.

@@edathi thanks for replying ! It's not an mtech lip. For $100 I'll give it a try, hopefully no more than some minor trimming is required.

Thanks! I feel like I'm maybe doing a bit too much on the wheel, but it's better than the alternative haha. Hope to see you at the next event!

@@edathi I think your fine considering the alternative like you say. Your hands are quick but seem calm and controlled plus your not yanking off the throttle another good indicator of control. Keep it up!

Oop nevermind just rewatched your video. Is hammering them down accurate? I’m just nervous lol is there any chance of it permanently fucking up the alignment?

@@haseebchowdhury4307 mine were real bad. Had a few little cracks. Yeah that's pretty much the only fix... like this is a high end race shop: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f2ebooiwd9eIq5Y after you get it flat there are reinforcement plates you can put inbetween the mount and the tower. And/or you can get strut tower brace. It's a good bit harder to do on earlier cars because the tower isnt totally flat on the top. Sadly it's somewhat common, especially on earlier cars. It could maybe the tiniest bit mess with alignment (the tower only really affects caster and camber) but nothing that can't be corrected with camber plates...

edathi Are you o social media? There’s some photos I’d like to send

@@haseebchowdhury4307 yeah! Instagram is eddyfb

Where do you get your alignment done?

Awesome! I got the car (basically as a shell since I needed to change literally everything lol). For $800 like 2.5 years ago. Just found a pretty major problem on it though :/ . I think there might have been a little bit worse damage from that crash and tracking it basically ripped the whole unibody /strut tower area apart behind the fender. Welded it back together for the next event but I'll be needing a new shell. I might go a different route instead of an e46 shell (been thinking about swapping the drivetrain into a tube frame circle track car. I don't quite have the $ for that rn now though. But you can get a rolling 2000lb chassis for $2-3000). If your checking out a car definitely don't do it in record freezing temperatures haha. I wasn't expecting perfection for $800 but I missed A LOT because I was cold lol.

Thanks for the tips man. What do you reckon it would cost me to get where you are? I’m probably gonna get a sorted 330, so say 3.5/4K? How much do you have in mods and add ons?

@@haseebchowdhury4307 In theory I could be where I am for about $6000 or so. I have a spreadsheet here where I had everything I initially planned on getting and updated it a few times with stuff I got but it's not super up to date or entirely what I would recommend. docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1BKc60hSzQyDPe9R41VRIRCddrqO9KDaWAXW1ShyT0s8/edit?usp=sharing I also had a decent post on reddit where I talked a lot about various reccomendations for a track car: www.reddit.com/r/e46/comments/diandb/my_new_project_track_dedicated_06_330ci/f49qqve/?context=3 It depends on where you are, and the market for cheaper cars has picked up quite a bit with stimulus checks and whatnot. If this is gonna be a track rat / dedicated track car I'd honestly look for a car thats just in solid mechanical shape, preferably with a worse looking interior. Lots of people seem to get track cars with nice interiors and then you just wind up throwing it all out. As long as the powertrain is good I'd recommend replacing basically everything else unless the p/o can prove they recently did it and you trust them. All engine gaskets (except like head gasket), bushings, and cooling system components especially. With a 330 you will need to secure the oil pump nut before tracking it too. You can get a nut with a wire tie on it for a couple bucks and toss that on when you do the oil pan gasket. Or you can weld it on like I have on my car. I highly recommend condor speed shop and whiteline for bushings. I haven't been on track with my ISC coilovers yet but my brother has had a good experience with them and it's like $1000 for a quality set of coilovers with adjustable top hats. If you are local to MD I have the old suspension off my car I'd sell for fairly cheap. It's got koseis with vogtland springs. At the shop we also have a set of bilsteins with H&R springs and a fixed top hat set for extra camber. I'd recommend a hotchkis front sway bar to go with my old setup or even any non coilover setup (Its also nice with coilovers) because my car had some trouble with too much body roll. Until you are racing used belts are a great deal. I got belts that were like $300+ new for $50 because they were past the certification date. I also got my bolt in half cage and sunroof plug from a friend who had wrecked his car so I saved a couple hundred on that too. I think between my reddit post and this comment I have told you pretty much everything I can pass on haha. If you got any more questions feel free to ask. Basically for a nice E46 at the track I'd expect to spend around $4-6000 all in. 2-3k on car plus 1-2k on suspension and 1-2k on doing all maintenance type items (cooling system, bushings, gaskets, weld in subframe reinforcements). Then seats, belts, and even a bolt in half cage would be another $1000. (I also didn't really include brakes, and wheels/tires which would add another $1500 or so. Both of which are really THE MOST IMPORTANT parts to spend your money on after the cooling system) Suspension and cage/seat/belt prices can be much less if you wait and shop around for used stuff!

I am local to MD! Near the DC ish area. That actually is perfect for my budget. I don’t want it to be a track rat per se, but a semi daily that is more inclined for the track. For the next 3 or so years I’ll be living on campus for college so I won’t exactly need a fully dedicated daily driver so I have some leeway into having a car that is less comfortable on the street. I likely will not be gutting it either, it being my only car and all. What engine stuff did you replace in terms of gaskets and consumables? Did you have to replace your entire cooling system? I’m currently on Facebook marketplace everyday lol, I’ll snatch up a decent 330 as soon as I find one

​@@haseebchowdhury4307 Ah okay! That was my plan for the 330xi I had but plans changed lol. When you are looking for a track day group I recommend NASA Mid atlantic. They always do a great job. I'm an instructor with them (NASA is a nationally respected track day / club racing group so since I'm instructing with them I can instruct at pretty much an event with any group tho). An event at summit point would be closest, or maybe dominion (NASA doesn't go there anymore but I like the track and other groups still go there. They have their own 1 day 'HPDRE' events too). There are a few things you can get rid of to cut some weight before fully gutting. Stuff in trunk, sound deadening (theres some loose stuff in various places in the car in addition to the sound deadening that has to be melted/scraped or frozen off), headers give a better exhaust note and cut like 30lbs from the car, with headers (or with just stock manifolds) you can delete the secondary air pump. If you do headers (mainly on a pre 04 car, but I think I can get software now to tune facelift cars (with the ms45.1 ECU) too) HMU and I can code out the check engine light. The main gaskets that need to be done (they will leak after 5-10 years or so if they aren't done) are the valve cover gasket, oil filter housing gasket, and oil pan gasket. There are some other seals and gaskets that can go bad, but it's relatively uncommon. It's a good idea (or necessary) to do an oil change each time you do those gaskets so it's nice to do them all at once. 50s kid, shoplifetv, and just forums and posts on the internet are all great sources for tutorials. You can also go to a pyp junk yard and practice tearing an E46 apart lol. Both the E46s I've had had new cooling system components (radiator, expansion tank, and upper radiator hose are most important. Any component in the system can go bad, though. If you ever have the intake manifold off the hard coolant lines can break after years of neglect). A radiator will very very rarely go bad if it's less than 5 - maybe even 10 y/o. Expansion tanks on the other hand can be a bit of a problem. Use an OE brand tank (99.99% of the time any part on FCPEuro will be very good quality) and even then it's not a bad idea to have a spare one in the trunk. A failed cooling system has been the death of many thousands of E46s. Supposedly it's good to get a new cap too, I heard that an old/bad cap can lead to worse problems with expansion tanks breaking. With a manual car an E46 will almost never leave you stranded if your cooling system and battery are in good shape. Fuel pumps can go bad too, but typically they will soft fail before leaving you stuck somewhere.

Thank you so much! ☺

Glad you like it! Yeah I was kind of waiting to see if anyone wanted me to add it before spending the time to add that in. I should have an update out tonight with that added in.

Alright, I put out an update with that added! Let me know if it works good for you. It works fine on my system, but I had to do something kinda weird to get it to work right. 99.9% sure it should work properly. The installer won't uninstall the old version so you need to uninstall it manually by running the uninstaller from "Apps & Features" or "Uninstall a program" depending on what version of Windows you are on.

You should seriously get one for yourself and put it on circuits

Thanks! It's a lot easier to feel what the car is doing now that I'm strapped in nice and tight!

Thanks! All the time I've spent sim racing is starting to really manifest itself in the real world. I'm hoping to get the car prepared to be competitive for time trial this upcoming season. Pretty much all budget limitations. I drive a snow plow truck in the winter, so I'm hoping for lots of snow! haha. I may try and document what all I do and make some videos!

@@edathi can't wait for more content!

no u