The system is under pressure when the car is running and it's pumping the fluid continuously, so if you're adding fluid with the car on, stay clear of the cap/fill port to not get burned with the cap relieving pressure/steam. You CAN do it with the car on if you're trying to bleed air out of the system if you're doing a complete refill from empty like if you had to replace a hose and drain all the fluid out, but if you're just topping it off, the marking on the reservoir for MIN/MAX usually/almost always reference when the car is off and cooled and the fluid/system is at rest. Not trying to fight with the Auto Zone guy/gal. Just think it depends on what you're trying to accomplish. Hope this helps more than it confuses!

It's not too bad all things considered- the engine bay is packed pretty tightly with things, and it is for the transmission, so you just have to get to the connection point on top of the transmission. It is where it is :/

I've heard it is an afternoon job- been thinking hard about upgrading to the 2017-2019 body style to make more content from our 2013, and will be doing this when we get ours I think. Hope it goes well! Did you get the yellow lights with it?

Lol not at all, but hope the video saved you some time! God is indeed good :)

When you say it doesn't work, is it one specific function that's not working? What are you experiencing? Connectivity? Bluetooth? Steering wheel controls?

The Bluetooth when I try to connect it just goes back to the radio

Ugh sorry you're dealing with it too. The mold can be managed if you deal with it there before it spreads. I'd recommend checking roof rack mounts, upper brake light seals, as well as the flexible rubber boots that feed wire harnesses from the car body to the hatch/lift gate. Sometimes those can pop up and water can come in there too.

Hope it was able to save you some time! Thanks for commenting :)

Oh no! Did you find a puller tool? That was the muscle that did it for most who have had a hard time with the initial penetrating oil on the bushing and the motor shaft.

That's fantastic! Sorry you still had to deal with it but it sure beats spending some cash when a DIY is feasible. Nice work!

Sorry for the delay- so you went to cycle the wipers with no arms/blades and each motor is standing still regardless of the switch being turned on? Check fuses?

@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews All fuses are good.

@@aarsenalfan any chance the wand/lever where the wiper switch is located is going bad? I had that go on our F150 at one point and had to change it out. Were they working before you took the arms off?

@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews Spraying front and rear works perfectly fine, rear wiper works.

Glad it helped. Hope it wasn't too much of a pain to get it back in working order!

No problem 👍Hope it helped!

Of course- hope it saved you some time and headache!

Under the compressed foam blocks to stick them back down to hold the parts of the connecting weatherstripping to the rain gutters.

What a great thing to read on a down day haha. I appreciate your encouragement and glad it's been useful for you! How many miles are on your '13???

If you only have one key and it's a restricted MyKey, you can't access the MyKey settings to turn it off. If you make a second key... ANY second key.... that is programmed to pair with the vehicle and can turn it on, it is considered an Admin Key and will get you access back to turn off the MyKey settings. That being said, you CAN get a brand new shiny FOB with buttons and all, but if you JUST want to get your MyKey settings off and want to save some cash, you can have a locksmith make you a valet key that doesn't have any buttons on it, but can be programmed and paired with your vehicle. As long as it can start the car, it is paired and will become an Admin key. Hope this helps.

I recognize this is a bit late- I know this is a dumb question, but are all the wires tucked into the cavity the whole time while inserting the lamp housing? I know that's stopped me a few times. Are all the alignment features still intact? Anything smooshed or bent at all?

​@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews I was pretty sure the wires were out of the way but I'll double check. Thanks for following up! Cheers.

unfortunately that's permanent as an ultimate fallback for the next person that wants to set a new personalized key code :/

@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews yeah that’s the problem I wanna change the factory one since I’m having problem with my family so I think they might try to do something to car

@@dilpreetdosanjh3494 man that sounds tough- it could be a bit dramatic, but you could pull the panels off the door and disconnect the wiring connector to the keypad? That way you just have the physical key?

@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews I will do that then

Well I'm not 100% positive, but there may be other half step sockets in those size, but we needed the 19.5mm socket which happened to have the 18.5mm on the other end. You could probably find a 17.5 and 21.5 if you looked.

@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews I searched but 17.5 and 21.5 are not available anywhere. thanks for replying

I believe the spring tab applies pressure to the snap ring that holds the mirror to the gimbal motor- sorry, but I think you're on the right track in thinking it necessary. I'd find a new mirror with one, or see if you can pull one from a junk yard for cheap maybe?

Thank you very much! Glad it was helpful!

All great info- surprised that there were already those differences in just the half step up in the changes from our generations! glad you were able to use this to save some time! Thanks for taking the time to share!

Say what??? Do you drive an Escape? If so, what year and engine do you have? Thanks for sharing

Thought I mentioned that when checking the fluid height but yes- absolutely! Good tip and thanks for posting!

Yeah! Hope it was helpful!

Of course- hope it was helpful!

@@mauricerob236 there should be 3. One on the left on the engine, one in the back of the engine, and the other on the right on the transmission. The engine and transmission are bolted together of course so that's why the right one is on the trans to hold up that side.

​@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews thanks! Wouldnt happen to have a Part # for engine mount for the 13 escape titatium (2.0)?

@@mauricerob236 i could maybe help find it! Which one do you think you need? Drivers side, middle back, or passenger side?

@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews the Pass side... the same 1 in this video...

Of course- yeah this isn't too bad- how is that blackout project coming? Are you doing the headlamp and tail light housings?

Nice work! Yeah they are a pain. Glad you got them off your lugs!

Sorry for the delay in response here- yes lol the manual isn't super helpful. The bulbs are good to know about, but that lower screw being covered by the bumper is a big ole pain. Thanks for commenting and for being a subscriber! Really appreciate the enthusiasm and support!

Yes- the 4WD is always on, but only in certain conditions where traction control may be kicking in, or if you're just accelerating from a start. The power control module tells the rear differential when to kick in vs just have the 2 wheels up front doing most of the work. From what I can tell, once you're up to speed, it's mostly (if not always) running on the front wheels.

Nice!!! Glad it was helpful- did you end up swapping it out ok?

@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews still haven't gotten it yet lol its not like a blinker bulb or anything I tried last wk to take it out and was afraid of breaking it can I spray wd40 there or no?

@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews like the bulb itself it's stuck I can get it out of the housing or whatever it's called from behind the light fixture but the bulb itself seems stuck

Glad it was helpful!