😂😂😂

did you cheat spawn the mines? i cant find more than about 15 in the map.

@@music65617 I didn't "cheat" as there are no cheat codes for this game on PlayStation. But I did find out, kinda by accident that if/when you save the game and then load it and return to those supply boxes (I think there are 5 or 6 on this map?) they will keep giving you supplies over and over and over. I must have placed 100 mines! And BTW...I FINALLY was able to clear out the entire map of reinforcements without having to fire a shot- my mines got them all. It was cool!

I machined it myself.

Ohh nice

Thank you for the kind words!

Great info! Is the scintillation from carbon 14 on zinc sulfide stronger than that of Tritium?

It depends on the energy of the β- particles, and of course, the activity. C-14 has a maximum β- energy of 156.6 keV, whilst H-3 has a maximum β- energy of 18.6 keV. The higher the energy, the brighter the scintillation. However, since H-3 is a gas, and the energies emitted are very low, more activity is required. You could theoretically use C-14 as a gas, such as C-14 dioxide, in place of H-3. The downside is that it would be costly to produce, and the NRC and IAEA would likely be against it, since C-14 is more energetic, and often in solid form, rather than gaseous H-3, increasing potential hazards. You could use both isotopes as a solid, however self-absorption increases and becomes a problem with β- emitters as energy decreases. This is why most H-3 vials contain millicuries of activity, compared to microcuries of activity with high-energy emitters, like Sr/Y-90, which was used in only a small number of self-luminous prototype items. C-14 was also used too, but also only in a few or so prototype items, such as self-luminous markers. These β- emitting self-luminous markers were made mostly for military and research purposes only. This is why α-emitters were used so much back then, since they emit energies much higher than most available β- emitters, being in the 5 MeV range, which is why less activity for that is required. The downside of this is that using higher-energies degrade the crystal structure of scintillators much faster than lower-energies. I hope this helps! ☢👍

Nope, roll film like this is not rewound when finished. You simply leave it on the takeup spool and remove it from the camera back, then swap the supply spool that you just emptied over to the takeup side.

Yes, they were still connected to a power supply for the duration of the video, to recharge after every discharge.

great thanks for the reply.@@Orcinus24x5

I might be good, but I'm not THAT good. ;)

Is it a KWC Desert Eagle model KCB51AHN? No? Then probably not.

It is not I was just curious cuz I have this glock lying at home and I want to make it more usefull than using it as bottle openner.

"Safe" is a relative term. You definitely don't want to be opening it up or anything, could wind up spreading radium dust around and that stuff is super nasty if it gets in your lungs (or anywhere else for that matter), but if it's just sitting on a shelf or in a display cabinet undisturbed, it'll be fine.

I did not have to make any modifications to the inside of the electronics housing on the lathe, nor did I have to modify the case of the tachometer's display. All I had to do was cut a rectangular hole the proper size.

@@Orcinus24x5 lucky you had to get creative with the dremel.....lol

I'm glad my video could help you out! Hope you get some great shots!

It's carbon-14 sealed under a _very_ thin Mylar window, which provides the best emissivity. I have a 10 μCi carbon-14 source, and the Mylar window is only a few microns or so thick.

Is it a KWC Desert Eagle model KCB51AHN? No? Then probably not.

Yes, that would be ideal. Unfortunately my lathe does not have a carriage lock!

@@Orcinus24x5 In a pinch, you can close the half-nut on an idle lead screw.

@@canuckfixit7722 But it never lines up with where you need the carriage to actually be in situations like this!

@@Orcinus24x5 Yeah it'll be off by a thread or two but I think you can turn the lead screw manually just a bit to get it where you want it. I can do that with my 7x14 mini lathe.

None of them are. If you actually watched the video, I explain that I converted it to full-auto myself.