@@EBMproductions1 a 150.6 at 32-33hz. Two tara amp 3ks, stock alt, 32ha headway.

@@EBMproductions1 I have both if these subs now. Need to build the TC into something respectable. Next year.

@@joeanderson1769 I apologize for not getting back to you. Been crazy busy this year. I have a red 240 build sitting here ready for someone. Same alternator as the Scion TC if I'm not mistaken. Call if interested. Text first so I know who it is. 435-260-1089

@@georgesrisomsak9650 glad to hear you are busy and yessir. Will reach out soon

www.ebay.com/itm/313190705831?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=yROEJXAGSl2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=39FhxSoiR1K&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

This is the "kit" you need. You'll re-use the case, rectifier, and regulator. I would suggest a new brush set as well for another 10 years of relatable service.

What up Warren!! Long time no see! 😂 It's definitely been a minute! How the hell are ya? I'm in Utah now! These amps are great, this one came from Derek at Williston audio labs. Awesome amps. I have two, one for mids, and one for tweeter duty. Wish you were closer to demo my DD setup, you'd be Impressed for sure! I should get some new videos posted, it been a while. Legit hair tricks and everything! All has been good with me brother, where you at these days? You should call me sometime. 435-260-1089. Holler mane!

I used the alternator which isn't technically recommended, and had zero issues. I do have 370a diy large case hairpin that took the beating like a champ.

Sounds like the 320 small case isn't doing good idle output. You can try a smaller pulley, or have it reconfigured to a 240a which will do more idle output by a good amount. Enough to make the difference. I have one for sale if interested, in red, and was my personal that I built myself before switching to a large case as I'm planning on much more power when I finally start the build. Do you know the size of the current pulley?

@@georgesrisomsak9650 that year model TC is from the factory with low rpm which Is around 625/650 in which it needs to be around 800/825 rpms for it to do right. And also what or how did you make the volts regulator???

This thing has done well. Your cases are extremely high quality. It's s been holding off 10+k watts charging lithium banks. Absolutely brutal abuse, but it's been rock solid, and continues to perform and impress. Thanks for taking care of me over there! Much appreciated! 👍

I have an 09 scion tc 2.4L so this 370 will fit directly on my factory location without any modifications?. How did the 370 billet alt fit in the tc?

Metro alternator parts, eBay(low mile wrecked new vehicle alternators). OEM alts use Japanese parts that are very reliable and second to none for reliability. I have a couple other sources that have been hit and miss. Metro is by far the best for parts, they have EVERYTHING.

One per coil, voltage at amp outputs set with multi meter. His setup is totally different now. Walled with 4 15" Fi SP4's in a 6th order I built. He upping power this next year to around 16k watts. He wants to run Korean based something this next time around..

Pretty much all vehicles use the denso "hairpin" style these days. Anything 2011 and up will likely have one. Large case units are found in all the Ford Dodge and Chevy trucks, Cadillac Ford and Chrysler SUVs and more. They are in just about every thing these days with today's high electrical demand in these newer vehicles.

[email protected] good sir. If its easier you can text or call 435-260-1089 Sorry for the delayed response. I dont check this video often! I apologize!

Absolutely correct! There's no advantage going one way or another that I've found. When I build them, I typically make the lower portion of the commutator the ground, and supply my own field to the upper ring. Just my habit, and truly doesn't matter. I would chalk it up to personal reference...

@@georgesrisomsak9650 Thanks. For my needs, I have a B-type external regulator that supplies positive field voltage with a 3-stage charge logic [bulk, absorb/time, float] and use it to charge a large 560Ah LiFePo4 battery from a small 23-hp diesel engine in my sailboat. The regulator does not have the ability to manually turn down the max field current so a large alternator would take too much power from the engine, not leaving enough to push the boat. I also have a PWM controller that I can use to pulse the voltage, which would reduce the current output, but it only pulses the negative line. My plan is to isolate both the + and - brush and connect the regulator to the + for charge control and the PWM to the - for max current limiting. With that setup, I could build a 370A large case alternator and use the full power to recharge at anchor but then be able to turn the output down to not overload the engine when I need to charge while moving the boat under power. Do you have any suggestions as to where to find a core to build this thing from? I do not live near any wrecking yards and have looked online but not found anywhere to buy old alternators to scrounge for parts.

We have a few more tubs of shit too! This is about half of the total decorations! 😂 Next year will be better for sure! We're already ordering more Christmas lights, and it's gonna be a Griswald type setup this year!

If you're trying to keep the same case, this would be the place I recommend to order parts from ad rebuild your current unit with. alternatorparts.com/10dn-alternators-parts-and-kits.html I would ultimately recommend to switch to a "hair pin" denso style unit if possible, as they are MUCH more durable, have incredible output, and easy to build, modify and regulate. You're request for around 160 amps can be die with a stout small case, modified to a 240a unit as shown in the video on the red alternator. I'll see what's available that will be close to drop in, but will likely require some custom modifications for mounting and pulley type. Worth the hassle coming from a unit designed and used in 1962. Today's denso units are capable of almost 400a continuously(large case) with proper modifications, installation and use. That's about 6x your current set output.

@@georgesrisomsak9650 Thanks for the reply. My plan is to build a new alternator and keep the old one as a spare. I would like to have one that has as much output as I can reasonably get from my poor little 23-hp diesel and then use the regulator to limit it when needed for other purposes (like moving the boat) 😜. What I am hoping to do is find doner alternator from a pull-n-save wrecking yard and build from there. Can you tell me how I would identify a Denso "hair pin" style alternator.

@@haydenwatson7987 the stator stack, as seen in the video is the "hair pin" type, and uses square wire. The pictures of the round wire "s" style stator in the link I sent would not be the denso hairpin design. There's many benefits, the main three being power density, immense cooling. and much less noise from converting A/C to DC. Good luck on your adventure into the world of diy high power alternators! You can do it!

@@georgesrisomsak9650 Thanks. How do I go about finding the right used alternator to build my Frankenstein alt. Can you point me to a website to dig deeper. FYI, my battery is a DIY LFP pack built with 280Ah EVE cells in a 204s configuration with a JK 200A BMS and all of my cables are 2/0 so my charging limit is currently at 200A but by reconfiguring it into two 4s packs each with its own BMS I can go close to 400A charge. I had found that web site that does parts for the dn10 but would prefer to start fresh because the dn10 has almost no internal air flow and I know how hard it is to cool my current unit.

@@haydenwatson7987 www.amazon.com/DB-Electrical-AND0292-Alternator-Durango/dp/B007XUJ7MW This is very close to the same mounting style, but you will need to fabricate likely to install. I would recommend the "Brand X" voltage regulator, as it's the best on the market, other than some of the high end Belmar controllers, that utilize temp sense and three step charge profiles. Those can get quite spendy however. The brand x is for car audio, no temp sensing, no charge profiles to choose from. It does however provide ROCK solid voltage regulation, the best I've seen yet.

Metro parts, or Facebook now had a diy alternator group. A few members can get anything you need to diy. Ebay also has some options for those that know what they are looking at.

435-260-1089 text with questions, vehicle type engine size, and your name. I can get ya taken care of!

You're going to love it. Best quality drivers I've played with so far. No tinsel failures, no problems even with smoke pouring out of the box once or twice during a bass race. These subs are tanks, that sound good and have the balls to really get down if you have the power. I'd send a 5k to it and you'll be happy. That's will be all the power you'll need to overcome rise and have all it's potential performance.

@@georgesrisomsak9650 man ! Thanks for the feedback.. can't hardly find anything on the 18s .. the new ones anyway.. yeah I'll be starting off with either a orion 2500.1 dz or a jp 23 . So at half ohm I should be OK without pushing the sub too hard.

@@matthewguynn2336 that should be a nice reliable setup for the next decade at that power!

@@georgesrisomsak9650 I'd like to see a 150db out of it.. but anything around that I'll be super happy with

@@matthewguynn2336 what vehicle? I do 50 at 28hz, clamping 3400 ish watts. 1 driver in a Scion TC. Was very easy in this car.

Right around $500. Shipping ain't cheap to send to Oklahoma. $300 of it was shipping alone.

@George Srisomsak you shipped your sub in for recone, so about $800. I have 2 older 9915sc that needs recone, Debating on upgrading 18"s with the new basket with esp.

@@damnitdang do it. Go big or go home. $ well spent in my opinion.

Clamped power around 3500 actual watts, tuned to 26hz. Car peaks at 28. Does right over a 150 at 28. Strong playable bandwidth from 23, to 37, falls off especially before, and a good bit after that.

Don't be shaming the 7.3L. Great old school motor.

I'm at work now, but just call it's easier. 435-260-1089 Text me and I'll call or text ya as soon as I'm done with work today!

If you still need help, holler today. I'm off work for most of it. Just a supervisor today.

@@georgesrisomsak9650 i not in United states.. do you have Whatsapp ?

@@FireKnight099 I do not. You can email me at [email protected], or message here and I'll do.my best to help. At work currently, but will be done here in a couple hours. Information like vehicle, a picture of the setup and the problems will make this diagnostic from another country efficient and effective. Let me know!

Unfortunately this will only apply to the 7.3 diesel equipped trucks. I know power master makes a drop in performance starter for your application however.

@@georgesrisomsak9650 Oh?

LMAO

I now own this sub, as well as it's twin that's in my Tc. Taramps powered this sub just as good as my pair of sundown's. Plays the low lows, sounds clean, and Alex pulls a lot less amps from his electrical than I do by a long shot. They are more efficient than my Koreans. He now runs 4 Fi SP4 V2 15's on the same two smart 3 ks in a 6th order we built for now. He plans on two Tara 8k's next after alternator upgrade and more batteries. Nothing wrong at all with Taramps man. Have you ever tried one? Or are you regurgitating what you read or heard somewhere?

@@georgesrisomsak9650 ive heard taramps i simply dont like em imo dont feel lke starting a bass war , run what u wana run bass on.

I don't have a company, was entertaining the idea, but I'm going to do something different for now. Maybe I'll revisit the idea later on sometime. Unfortunately, after researching that vehicle, there are no cases made to convert to a 6 phase hairpin in that vehicle. You would be looking at a custom case, and it ain't cheap. I had the same issue with my Scion TC, but was lucky that DC power Engineering makes a billet custom case to convert it to a large case hairpin. At some point one of the big alt companies will make it happen, just a matter of time, unless it's a vehicle that is rarely used for high power 12v items like audio, winches, lights or other. What I can tell you is to do the big three and install a smaller pulley. That will make a big difference in itself for now..